Fed Up

[DJ194950]

Always double flare for fuel, brake, most automotive applications all use them.

While single May work sometimes, reusing them is seldom do-able.

 

DJ

[bambamshere]

 2 more questions sure there will be more.  Does anyone have a way they did the fuel line from the fuel pump to the carburetor past the exhaust manifold. Is that exhaust manifold supposed to have heat shield. 

[HotRodTractor]

Heat Shield PDF Link Here

 

An example of fuel line routing:

 

[HotRodTractor]

Another example of how to run a fuel line - this is my 1-1/2T truck - its still fence row fresh - but purrs like a kitten.

 

[bambamshere]

9 minutes ago, HotRodTractor said:

Another example of how to run a fuel line - this is my 1-1/2T truck - its still fence row fresh - but purrs like a kitten.

 

I am getting rid of the glass bowl that is at my carburetor. The new fuel pump cam with one. 

[HotRodTractor]

Just now, bambamshere said:

I am getting rid of the glass bowl that is at my carburetor. The new fuel pump cam with one. 

 

If you notice - this engine has a glass bowl at the pump and the carb. Just trying to give you and idea of how the fuel lines can be ran.

[bambamshere]

1 hour ago, HotRodTractor said:

 

If you notice - this engine has a glass bowl at the pump and the carb. Just trying to give you and idea of how the fuel lines can be ran.

 

Sorry I didn't see the one at the fuel pump. I didn't have one at the fuel pump before. Does it do extra filtering. 

 

This is what my filter bowl looked like after I took it off. The bottom of the bowl has got grit in it and the margarine carton was cleaned before I dumped the gas that was in the bowl in to it. Grit at bottom and the third picture was the color of the gas that came out of the old fuel pump. I think it was mixed with oil when I dumped it out. 

[Young Ed]

Personally I would make my fuel pump to carb line longer and get it as far from the manifolds as possible. 

[Radarsonwheels]

All the fuel pumps and lines I ever messed with were done with a double flare. Often they have NPT ports with adapters screwed in to take the flared tube and nuts. 

[bambamshere]

Well the plumbing is done for fuel lines and fuel pump is in. Will try to start tomorrow and then secure the lines. I ran a line just for now from the fuel pump to the carburetor. I need some more fittings to run it the way I want to. Right now it is about 5 inches away from the exhaust manifold. I want to make it look a little more cleaner. 

[bambamshere]

So go to start my truck since fuel problem and my battery was completely dead. It was 10 years old and went through a few Manitoba winters. So bought new one hopefully I will get truck running.

[bambamshere]

So this trucks carburetor is still popping. It idles really nice but it is still popping. Wonder if I need to advance more it is fully retarded right now. 

 

I have cleaned the carburetor, I have done fuel pump now. I have done timing. What else can it be it needs choke to stop the popping. 

 

Timing or carburetor. What do you think

 

[Dave72dt]

Adding some choke to stop the popping would make me think you have a vacuum leak somewhere if it's happening when at idle.  If it when you're trying to increase the rpms, it could easily be the timing.  Get a light on it and set timing to spec.  Check the timing at idle and also  with some rpm added.  The timing should advance with the increase in rpm.

[HotRodTractor]

Lots of things can cause the "carb to pop"

 

Carb is adjusted too lean

 

Vacuum leak

 

Timing issues

 

So can you help describe what this popping is like, or when it is occurring? You say it idles nice, but still pops? Does that mean its only popping when higher in the RPMs or under load?

 

I'm probably forgetting lots at the moment - but the bottom line is we need more details to help.

[bambamshere]

The popping in the carburetor is when you step on the gas to either shift down and you kinda quickly put your foot on the pedal. You quickly give it gas to down shift. Or if you have the chock off and it is still running a little high and you and you know it idles lower. So you it the gas quickly to bring idle down. It pops. I had the timing set at about 2 degrees and idle at about 600 and it was running rough. Then I brought timing up to 4 and so on. I have it about 20 right now and it is running better but still has that popping going on. The carb is 1 barrel. It isn't that hard to set up. There's like 2 screws. Idle and mixture.  

 

I know that advancing to 20 is to high. But it is running better. 

 

I cleaned carburetor about 2 years ago. It has gotten no miles on it. But the lines and fuel pump were pretty dirty. Think it could be a jet that is gummed up from the crap in the lines and the fuel pump

Edited August 25, 2019 by bambamshere

[Plymouthy Adams]

17 minutes ago, bambamshere said:

 

I cleaned carburetor about 2 years ago. It has gotten no miles on it. But the lines and fuel pump were pretty dirty. Think it could be a jet that is gummed up from the crap in the lines and the fuel pump

 

I have to ask, if you suspect old gummy fuels or any crud/rust/debris in the tank, line, pump or carb....why are you trying to tune a carb till you correct the suspected issues.

 

 

[BobK]

Quote

 

I have not read all the post, so maybe this has been mentioned, but if it happens when you step on the pedal...…. what about accelerator pump issues???

[bambamshere]

1 hour ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

 

I have to ask, if you suspect old gummy fuels or any crud/rust/debris in the tank, line, pump or carb....why are you trying to tune a carb till you correct the suspected issues.

 

 

Because I thought I would ask the question. Since the carburetor was rebuilt 2 years ago and the truck has gone maybe 20 miles since. Wasn't sure if it could get that gummed up in that amount of time. 

 

So I asked you fine folks. Can it gum up that quickly. 

[bambamshere]

1 hour ago, BobK said:

I have not read all the post, so maybe this has been mentioned, but if it happens when you step on the pedal...…. what about accelerator pump issues???

Never thought about that. Thanks

[kencombs]

2 hours ago, bambamshere said:

Never thought about that. Thanks

 

4 hours ago, bambamshere said:

The popping in the carburetor is when you step on the gas to either shift down and you kinda quickly put your foot on the pedal. You quickly give it gas to down shift. Or if you have the chock off and it is still running a little high and you and you know it idles lower. So you it the gas quickly to bring idle down. It pops. I had the timing set at about 2 degrees and idle at about 600 and it was running rough. Then I brought timing up to 4 and so on. I have it about 20 right now and it is running better but still has that popping going on. The carb is 1 barrel. It isn't that hard to set up. There's like 2 screws. Idle and mixture.  

 

I know that advancing to 20 is to high. But it is running better. 

 

I cleaned carburetor about 2 years ago. It has gotten no miles on it. But the lines and fuel pump were pretty dirty. Think it could be a jet that is gummed up from the crap in the lines and the fuel pump

Yep, that description is a classic description of accelerator pump issues.  Lean on quick acceleration.  It is possible to help it a bit by richening the idle mix a bit.  That provides more fuel and requires less pump delivery.  I would prefer the  idle to be under 600 also.  I don't know what exact carb you have, but most have an adjustment for pump stroke.

[bambamshere]

So I was looking for some info on my carburetor today and found these videos. Not sure if these have been posted. They are from YouTube. Hope they can help someone.

 

 

 

[NiftyFifty]

If you have to advance to 20, I have to wonder if your timing chain has jumped a tooth, or it was installed incorrectly at some point out.  

 

To check for vacuum leak, start the truck and let it off fast idle, or push the choke in and spray carb cleaner around the carb base, and intake gaskets...if the engine revs up or dies down you have a leak.

[Jeff Balazs]

21 hours ago, bambamshere said:

Because I thought I would ask the question. Since the carburetor was rebuilt 2 years ago and the truck has gone maybe 20 miles since. Wasn't sure if it could get that gummed up in that amount of time. 

 

So I asked you fine folks. Can it gum up that quickly. 

Yes. Fuel sits and evaporates. Leaves residue. Once you get everything working correctly I would recommend using MMO in the fuel to help prevent future problems. Has worked weel for my truck.

Jeff

[bambamshere]

Think I done did something wrong. Last night I took carburetor apart and noticed that either I didn't notice or just didn't take it apart. Was the pump jet that is held in by a aluminum plug. So that was taken out and cleaned. Then I looked at instructions for carb kit and it said that the float should be adjusted at 5/64ths so I did that. But today truck is not running at idle. No matter where I set the distributor timing. 

 

I looked up on internet. One place says 5/64ths and the other says 5/32s. Anybody no what it should be. I think mine was set at 5/32s but I didn't  take reading before. Help please and thank you

Edited August 26, 2019 by bambamshere

[Los_Control]

I just kinda doubt the difference between 5/64" or 5/32" would stop it from running.

It may cause the float to over flow ... but not stop it from running.

It may cause it to run like crap, but not stop it.

 

You have something else going on.

Now we need to figure out what else you did.

Those little ball bearings that block the ports, those are important.

They may be stuck, they are different sizes and one goes in one hole ... while the larger one goes in the Neighbors hole.

 

Not impossible that the float is stuck and just flooding out, I suspect something else is going on.