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BobK

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    47
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About BobK

  • Rank
    Advanced Member

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Bloomingburg NY
  • My Project Cars
    46 Dodge pickup

Converted

  • Location
    Bloomingburg NY
  • Interests
    Dirt racing, hit and miss engines, horticulture

Recent Profile Visitors

825 profile views
  1. Those flytraps are great looking. Just bought a few special varieties of venus flytrap to grow with my other types of carnivorous plants. What did you use to cover the metal frame of the traps? Is it metal or a fabric? Hope this doesn't cause a ruckus as we are getting off topic.
  2. No need to pull the head to determine the stroke. There is a pipe plug over cylinder #6 which when removed allows you to measure the stroke by inserting a long enough rod that rest on the piston top. Rotate engine and measure how much the rod moves up and down.
  3. James, I was just about to search for your post from a couple days ago in which you mentioned FI for your flathead...…….and bingo...…..this shows up. Please keep us posted on your progress. I have been thinking about different ways (TBI or direct port) to have fuel injection for a 251. Modern computer electronic auto systems may be way beyond my skill set. But sometimes dumb, first time beginners luck will get the job done.
  4. Brad, did you give any thought to using the Cherokee parking brakes instead of the original setup?
  5. King Kong (1933) The Thing (1951) the original version It's a Mad, Mad, Mad World. Twelve Angry Men Witness for The Prosecution All are required viewing every time they air on TV in my house.
  6. This ought to raise a few eyebrows …… and I'm sure you will think I'm a ……… but what if you just ding the reservoir a little to get the clearance you need. Maybe a little heat and bend, or cut a section out and JB weld a patch back in. Hey, I coulda' said duct tape the patch. We notch cross members and oil pans for engine swaps, why not a MC reservoir? But then that's why they have remote fill set-ups for MC. It's a good thing I'm a horticulturalist,,,,,, and not a professional mechanic.
  7. Speaking of leaf springs......The Eaton-Detroit Springs website has lots of info on the proper way to paint, lube (you really shouldn't), and remove leaves.
  8. I'm no expert, but it is my understanding that the Ellis intakes were designed for truck applications...… thus the carb mounting is turned 90 * from the car mounting so as to be able to use the truck style firewall mounted throttle linkage.
  9. I have not read all the post, so maybe this has been mentioned, but if it happens when you step on the pedal...…. what about accelerator pump issues???
  10. If you are looking for a 265 cu in 25 inch long engine...… make sure you measure the stroke to determine that it is in fact 265 cu. in.
  11. A Google search revealed that Albert Champion and partners formed the Albert Champion Spark Plug Co. in Boston. Albert later sold his interest , moved to the Detroit area and formed the Champion Ignition Co. A lawsuit ensued over naming, the result being the Boston company became Champion Sparkplug and Alberts Detroit company became AC. Different companies, but formed by the same man.
  12. Just something to think about...….. springs and their mounting hardware are designed to support vehicle weight, shocks and mounting points for them might not be able to.
  13. May not work for you......but when I changed over to 12 volts (from 6) and used a GM(ouch) I wire alternator on my other wise stock 46 truck, I read that many of the gauges on Mopar 12 volt vehicles used voltage reducers for the gauges. Located on the back side of the dash/gage panel using two spades to plug into the panel. Mine came from a 70's Aspen.
  14. Andydodge........What, being from Australia, and you never saw the Mad Max movies. I think your Buddy Mel drove one of those.
  15. It is my understanding that the "power brake booster" does the actual work of applying the force to the master cylinder push rod when your foot pushes the pedal. Without the booster, your leg muscles are providing the force to the master cylinder pushrod. Disc brakes, I think might need more effort than "self energizing" drum brakes, thus requiring more input from your leg muscles. With disc, the harder you push, the better they work (with in their operating parameters) and the more work you have to do. The booster just reduces the "strain" on your left leg. I also don't believe the "booster" applies any more pressure, or increases the force to the master cylinder than what you could apply with your muscles in a non-power brake system. And it does not do it any faster either. Any of the dirt modified race cars I have worked on are 4 wheel disc with out power boosters......and they stop......and they stop fast. Well, most of the time. Sometimes they stop real fast without even using the brakes. A concrete wall is a pretty effective braking system. Since this is my opinion, feel free to correct or add info needed.
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