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BobK

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Everything posted by BobK

  1. One thing it dosn't need is paint.............. Maybe just some "shine juice"......... Looks good as is. IMO
  2. Andy, Dodge Red Ram hemi is 18 3/4 inches long. Chrysler is about 20 1/2 inches.
  3. I had one of those........ turned out to be an 8 1/4 , pumpkin type rear. It was in a 62 slant six dart. I assumed it was an 8 3/4......... until I tried to swap pumpkins. I believe they were used in six cylinder cars , late 50's early 60's.
  4. Well, At least it's not a FORD.......... Freaking Oil Really Dripping.
  5. I'm thinking ya need a bowtie to get those valve covers. Quick...... someone sedate Frank Elder.
  6. Yes, I would think grade 8 would be correct. Make sure the bolt has a shoulder on it (non threaded portion under the head). You want that shoulder part of the bolt to fit snug in the hole, so be careful if you have to enlarge the hole to fit the bolt. As Lingle said in the above post. After everything is set and bolted tight, I would consider a few short beads of weld to keep the pieces from sliding around and enlarging the holes. There is a lot of stress on suspension parts as you go down the road, that's why the factory used rivets and not nuts and bolts to hold them together. I'm no expert...... feel free to correct me.
  7. Rivets by nature expand when hit and get tighter in the hole. Grind the heads off, drill a small hole in the rivet to allow the rivet to expand into the hole you drilled, and drive them out. Worked for me.
  8. Those flytraps are great looking. Just bought a few special varieties of venus flytrap to grow with my other types of carnivorous plants. What did you use to cover the metal frame of the traps? Is it metal or a fabric? Hope this doesn't cause a ruckus as we are getting off topic.
  9. No need to pull the head to determine the stroke. There is a pipe plug over cylinder #6 which when removed allows you to measure the stroke by inserting a long enough rod that rest on the piston top. Rotate engine and measure how much the rod moves up and down.
  10. James, I was just about to search for your post from a couple days ago in which you mentioned FI for your flathead...…….and bingo...…..this shows up. Please keep us posted on your progress. I have been thinking about different ways (TBI or direct port) to have fuel injection for a 251. Modern computer electronic auto systems may be way beyond my skill set. But sometimes dumb, first time beginners luck will get the job done.
  11. Brad, did you give any thought to using the Cherokee parking brakes instead of the original setup?
  12. King Kong (1933) The Thing (1951) the original version It's a Mad, Mad, Mad World. Twelve Angry Men Witness for The Prosecution All are required viewing every time they air on TV in my house.
  13. This ought to raise a few eyebrows …… and I'm sure you will think I'm a ……… but what if you just ding the reservoir a little to get the clearance you need. Maybe a little heat and bend, or cut a section out and JB weld a patch back in. Hey, I coulda' said duct tape the patch. We notch cross members and oil pans for engine swaps, why not a MC reservoir? But then that's why they have remote fill set-ups for MC. It's a good thing I'm a horticulturalist,,,,,, and not a professional mechanic.
  14. Speaking of leaf springs......The Eaton-Detroit Springs website has lots of info on the proper way to paint, lube (you really shouldn't), and remove leaves.
  15. I'm no expert, but it is my understanding that the Ellis intakes were designed for truck applications...… thus the carb mounting is turned 90 * from the car mounting so as to be able to use the truck style firewall mounted throttle linkage.
  16. I have not read all the post, so maybe this has been mentioned, but if it happens when you step on the pedal...…. what about accelerator pump issues???
  17. If you are looking for a 265 cu in 25 inch long engine...… make sure you measure the stroke to determine that it is in fact 265 cu. in.
  18. A Google search revealed that Albert Champion and partners formed the Albert Champion Spark Plug Co. in Boston. Albert later sold his interest , moved to the Detroit area and formed the Champion Ignition Co. A lawsuit ensued over naming, the result being the Boston company became Champion Sparkplug and Alberts Detroit company became AC. Different companies, but formed by the same man.
  19. Just something to think about...….. springs and their mounting hardware are designed to support vehicle weight, shocks and mounting points for them might not be able to.
  20. May not work for you......but when I changed over to 12 volts (from 6) and used a GM(ouch) I wire alternator on my other wise stock 46 truck, I read that many of the gauges on Mopar 12 volt vehicles used voltage reducers for the gauges. Located on the back side of the dash/gage panel using two spades to plug into the panel. Mine came from a 70's Aspen.
  21. Andydodge........What, being from Australia, and you never saw the Mad Max movies. I think your Buddy Mel drove one of those.
  22. It is my understanding that the "power brake booster" does the actual work of applying the force to the master cylinder push rod when your foot pushes the pedal. Without the booster, your leg muscles are providing the force to the master cylinder pushrod. Disc brakes, I think might need more effort than "self energizing" drum brakes, thus requiring more input from your leg muscles. With disc, the harder you push, the better they work (with in their operating parameters) and the more work you have to do. The booster just reduces the "strain" on your left leg. I also don't believe the "booster" applies any more pressure, or increases the force to the master cylinder than what you could apply with your muscles in a non-power brake system. And it does not do it any faster either. Any of the dirt modified race cars I have worked on are 4 wheel disc with out power boosters......and they stop......and they stop fast. Well, most of the time. Sometimes they stop real fast without even using the brakes. A concrete wall is a pretty effective braking system. Since this is my opinion, feel free to correct or add info needed.
  23. Dozerman beat me to it.........so I'll tell a story. Once upon a time, an "unknown" person was looking to find a 265 Mopar flathead. Off he went to the local machine shop and poured over a book listing all the casting numbers of 25" Mopar flatheads and he reasoned that with the list of numbers, he would be able to identify the 265 engines from the 237 and 251 and all would be good . But after writing down lots of numbers it became apparent that this was a poor plan . For example.....# xxx-4356 block was used on the 1951 265 and also on the 1949 251 and 1947 237 and..,....on and on.... Remember the old saying......size matters.....use the stick and you'll know how big it is.
  24. IMO, without the stamped serial numbers on the pad on the block, the only sure way to tell the displacement of the 25" engines is to measure the stroke. The bore is the same on the three most common size engines (237, 251, 265 cu. in.) but the stroke is different and the rod length of each is different. Remove the pipe plug located on the head between cylinders # 5 and 6, and using a long thin wooden stick in the hole, rotate the engine and measure how much the stick moves from top dead center to bottom dead center. The stick will be resting on the piston top and move up and down as you turn the crank and thus reveal the stroke of the engine. I say wood stick.......just in case you use a short one and in disappears into the cylinder at BDC. You don't want a piece of metal stuck in there. I've bought a couple 25" engines that turned out to be smaller than I thought at time of purchase.
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