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Jeff Balazs

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Everything posted by Jeff Balazs

  1. Brad; Well for me insulation was an important part of the build. When I decided to build this truck it was always going to be my daily driver. I have been in plenty of older vehicles like this that looked good but fell short when it came to reasonable creature comforts. I made my mind up this truck was not going to be noisy or smelly or any of the things that make for an unpleasant driving experience. What I did has worked well for me. It is very quiet as old trucks go and does not get too hot or too cold. I know I was over the top on my efforts with this but 5 years of daily use has made me glad I was. Jeff
  2. You know what you probably can fit that type into a stock set up without any worry. I have an aftermarket Pilothouse interior in my truck and I insulated the living daylights out of my cab. Also have speakers for the stereo system in the kick panels. Thinking back I recall going way over the top on insulation. So much so that it made fit up somewhat difficult. It all worked out in the end though as many of my passengers have commented that they expected squeaks and rattles and instead it is nice and quiet. Jeff
  3. Brad; As I recall the kick panel needed to be in place prior to installing my Mopar Truckmaster heater. I know I had mine in and out 3 or 4 times during the build. Sometimes I shoot from the hip...and pay the price. Jeff
  4. If it is just weeping I wouldn't worry too much about it. There will be other leaks....😯 Probably the only good permanent fix would involve removing the pan and having the perimeter of the connection brazed. Jeff
  5. There is really nothing all that tricky... or for that matter fussy ...about using 6V positive ground in these vehicles. It works just fine!!. The aftermarket accessory turn signal units that clamp on to the steering column work well, I got one off Ebay that looks period and it has been in daily use for 5 years. It does require a 6V flasher relay. These seem to have a lifespan of about 2 years...so get extras. Other than that I think it is a good idea to have this feature. You would be surprised by how many fools follow too closely. And it gives you an Emergency flasher should you experience car trouble or get behind an accident. Jeff
  6. Have you done the adjustments as outlined in the manual? I was worried about my trucks steering gearbox but I was able to adjust the play out of the wheel by a simple adjustment on top of the box. As far as a leaking gearbox goes I found that if you pack the box with synthetic wheel bearing grease you won't have to worry about it leaking. I have put close to 25,000 miles on my truck and it steers like a champ. Sometimes the "fix" is much easier than you would think.... Hth, Jeff
  7. Jim; You are probably right. I just thought I would throw this idea out there. Electronics devices like these modules can be sensitive to all sorts of things......like increased resistance etc. I have found it doesn't pay to take chances. Sounds like you are on track with the fuel delivery system. Jeff
  8. Jim; Not absolutely positive.....but the tach might not be compatible with your Pertronix module. I could never get mine to work correctly so I ended up leaving it disconnected. Others have had similar issues. I found I can live without the Tach.....and do not want to take a chance damaging the module. Jeff
  9. Very....very purdy! Have fun with it! Jeff
  10. So I have to ask......maybe I missed something here? If the cylinders got so heavily washed by fuel that the compression dropped that low wouldn't a bunch of that excess fuel have wound up in the sump? That might be worth looking at. Jeff
  11. Ain't nothing at all wrong with my Pertronix conversion. I have been running the 6V positive ground unit in my truck for going on 5 years. It is a daily driver that lives outdoors so it has been more than adequately proven. Extremely simple and reliable....... Jeff
  12. This is almost certainly a sign that you have either got a blown head gasket or a crack.
  13. What kind of oil pressure do you see typically ? At Idle and at speed? Kind of sounds like some sort of blockage or perhaps the oil pressure relief valve is sticking. Is the breather cap functioning? I am sure others will chime in. Jeff
  14. Well I drive it every day........and it is my only ride......so it has been fairly easy. I generally put around 100 to 125 miles on it a week. It is funny but once you get used to driving one of these you don't really enjoy driving other stuff. Jeff
  15. Brad it does get real close. Probably within a 1/4". My set up might be slightly different than yours as I have a fluid drive 4 speed and the bell housing is different. I think you could remove some metal from the underside of the brake pedal . As I have said mine has functioned quite well for over 20000 miles. Jeff
  16. Hey Guy's; Here is a photo of the M/C in my 52 3/4 ton. It is a stock 2002 Grand Cherokee m/c. I made an adapter plate and added a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. I did have residual valves in the initial build but they were causing the fronts to drag. Also I needed to shorten the original adjustable rod a bit. Initially the linkage needed some fiddly little adjustments to prevent brake drag. Once I got that where it should be I was good to go. Btw my axle is a Dana 35 3.55 ratio with 12" discs. There is nothing wrong with these axles as long as the seals are replaced and the gear lash is set correctly. You certainly don't need a beefier axle with our L6 powerplant. These brakes and the higher ratio rear axle are without any doubt the best upgrade I could have done during my build. I drive this truck every day in relatively heavy and fast moving street traffic. The truck itself is no hot rod but when it is up to traffic speed I don't have any worry about it stopping quickly if needed. And believe me I have put them to the test. We have more than our fair share of crap drivers here in Southern California. Hope this helps. Jeff
  17. I thought I would share this as I am pretty certain it is still the worst one anyone has ever seen. 😀 The opposite of the grass is always greener type of thing...... Jeff
  18. Here is what mine looked like when I finally got it out!!!!!🥶
  19. Karl; Here are a few photos of my 52 3/4 ton after I swapped in a Grand Cherokee rear axle. The shock mounts are in the same basic position as they were before the axle swap. My fabricator buddy removed the shock mounts from my original 4.11 rear axle and welded them to the GC axle. The upper shock mounts on the frame were not modified. I hope this helps. Jeff
  20. Hi Karl; Yes it has definitely been "bodged". It is not even close to the way it should be. The shocks should run in line and in board of the main frame rails. Shock mounts should be on the underside of the axle and be pointed forward. I don't have any photos but I am sure someone else here will. On the plus side the body looks great! Cheers, Jeff
  21. Yep that would probably do the trick. I will tell you that I rarely leave my heater/ defroster on for more than about 10 minutes because the cab gets too warm. I probably over did a bit it on cab insulation but that also makes a huge difference. Have fun with your panel truck. They are way cool. Jeff
  22. Yes maybe to some........but at least I have not chopped up a couple of cabs and put them on one of those noisy smelly diesels.🤔 Besides all I did to my heater is stick on a couple of formed pieces of aluminum to cover cab side outlets. They can be popped off and the heater is as it was when it left the factory. It still heats the cab up in about 5 minutes. And it works better in the defroster mode than it did without the "modification". I do realize that this sort of tweak probably seems unnecessary to most owners.....but I seriously doubt they actually use one of these trucks as their primary transportation. I get to put mine to the test day in and day out. Puts things into a different perspective. Functional windshield wipers and a defroster are a must.......And a lot of the OEM type equipment can be made to work and be reliable. But sometimes it needs a little help.
  23. Boody; I just noticed that your application is a panel truck. Heating the entire truck (no matter what heater you end up using) will take a while. You might want to concentrate your efforts on the defroster function. I actually modified my Model 65 heater by covering some of the fan outlets to help increase the airflow out through the defroster ports. This made quite a difference to the defroster function. Each heater configuration is a bit different so mods like this may or may not be necessary. Jeff
  24. So I have a Model 65 heater that Mark rebuilt then sold to me. Thanks again Mark. I found all the parts to make it into a "fresh air" system. I also installed the accessory cables for a cable operated heater valve....defroster and fresh air valve. At the time I built my truck I wasn't sure how much I would use it here in sunny Southern California. It really doesn't get too cold here. But we do get fog and conditions that make the inside of the windows fog up quite frequently particularly in the evenings and early mornings. So I went ahead with it. Now I am in my 5th year of using the old 52 as a daily driver. I will tell you that I am glad I spent the time on this set up. In fact I used it early this morning. It works amazingly well. Takes a couple minutes to start generating some heat but other than that it gets the job done. These old heaters are great. They look cool and they are totally functional. IMO if you are going to actually use your truck it ought to have one...wherever you are located. Jeff
  25. I installed the 50A unit. It easily handles things including a fairly powerful stereo....extra lighting...etc. I cant imagine needing more than that. Jeff
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