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Jeff Balazs

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Everything posted by Jeff Balazs

  1. Well I drive it every day........and it is my only ride......so it has been fairly easy. I generally put around 100 to 125 miles on it a week. It is funny but once you get used to driving one of these you don't really enjoy driving other stuff. Jeff
  2. Brad it does get real close. Probably within a 1/4". My set up might be slightly different than yours as I have a fluid drive 4 speed and the bell housing is different. I think you could remove some metal from the underside of the brake pedal . As I have said mine has functioned quite well for over 20000 miles. Jeff
  3. Hey Guy's; Here is a photo of the M/C in my 52 3/4 ton. It is a stock 2002 Grand Cherokee m/c. I made an adapter plate and added a Wilwood adjustable proportioning valve. I did have residual valves in the initial build but they were causing the fronts to drag. Also I needed to shorten the original adjustable rod a bit. Initially the linkage needed some fiddly little adjustments to prevent brake drag. Once I got that where it should be I was good to go. Btw my axle is a Dana 35 3.55 ratio with 12" discs. There is nothing wrong with these axles as long as the seals are replaced and the gear lash is set correctly. You certainly don't need a beefier axle with our L6 powerplant. These brakes and the higher ratio rear axle are without any doubt the best upgrade I could have done during my build. I drive this truck every day in relatively heavy and fast moving street traffic. The truck itself is no hot rod but when it is up to traffic speed I don't have any worry about it stopping quickly if needed. And believe me I have put them to the test. We have more than our fair share of crap drivers here in Southern California. Hope this helps. Jeff
  4. I thought I would share this as I am pretty certain it is still the worst one anyone has ever seen. 😀 The opposite of the grass is always greener type of thing...... Jeff
  5. Here is what mine looked like when I finally got it out!!!!!🥶
  6. Karl; Here are a few photos of my 52 3/4 ton after I swapped in a Grand Cherokee rear axle. The shock mounts are in the same basic position as they were before the axle swap. My fabricator buddy removed the shock mounts from my original 4.11 rear axle and welded them to the GC axle. The upper shock mounts on the frame were not modified. I hope this helps. Jeff
  7. Hi Karl; Yes it has definitely been "bodged". It is not even close to the way it should be. The shocks should run in line and in board of the main frame rails. Shock mounts should be on the underside of the axle and be pointed forward. I don't have any photos but I am sure someone else here will. On the plus side the body looks great! Cheers, Jeff
  8. Yep that would probably do the trick. I will tell you that I rarely leave my heater/ defroster on for more than about 10 minutes because the cab gets too warm. I probably over did a bit it on cab insulation but that also makes a huge difference. Have fun with your panel truck. They are way cool. Jeff
  9. Yes maybe to some........but at least I have not chopped up a couple of cabs and put them on one of those noisy smelly diesels.🤔 Besides all I did to my heater is stick on a couple of formed pieces of aluminum to cover cab side outlets. They can be popped off and the heater is as it was when it left the factory. It still heats the cab up in about 5 minutes. And it works better in the defroster mode than it did without the "modification". I do realize that this sort of tweak probably seems unnecessary to most owners.....but I seriously doubt they actually use one of these trucks as their primary transportation. I get to put mine to the test day in and day out. Puts things into a different perspective. Functional windshield wipers and a defroster are a must.......And a lot of the OEM type equipment can be made to work and be reliable. But sometimes it needs a little help.
  10. Boody; I just noticed that your application is a panel truck. Heating the entire truck (no matter what heater you end up using) will take a while. You might want to concentrate your efforts on the defroster function. I actually modified my Model 65 heater by covering some of the fan outlets to help increase the airflow out through the defroster ports. This made quite a difference to the defroster function. Each heater configuration is a bit different so mods like this may or may not be necessary. Jeff
  11. So I have a Model 65 heater that Mark rebuilt then sold to me. Thanks again Mark. I found all the parts to make it into a "fresh air" system. I also installed the accessory cables for a cable operated heater valve....defroster and fresh air valve. At the time I built my truck I wasn't sure how much I would use it here in sunny Southern California. It really doesn't get too cold here. But we do get fog and conditions that make the inside of the windows fog up quite frequently particularly in the evenings and early mornings. So I went ahead with it. Now I am in my 5th year of using the old 52 as a daily driver. I will tell you that I am glad I spent the time on this set up. In fact I used it early this morning. It works amazingly well. Takes a couple minutes to start generating some heat but other than that it gets the job done. These old heaters are great. They look cool and they are totally functional. IMO if you are going to actually use your truck it ought to have one...wherever you are located. Jeff
  12. I installed the 50A unit. It easily handles things including a fairly powerful stereo....extra lighting...etc. I cant imagine needing more than that. Jeff
  13. Rich, I have one of these single wire 6v positive ground alternators on my truck. The unit I have is from Quality Power. It has been flawless. You can either use the terminal on the old regulator or run it straight to the battery terminal on the pedal starter. I did it the later way. I run with a pair of 6 volt Optima red tops. I have never needed a remote charger. This alternator eliminates any charging issues. Batteries are always ready to go. Jeff
  14. It was hard to tell from the photo......but it looks a bit tight compared to my truck. Just thought I would mention it. Jeff
  15. Hi Jason; I will chime in. I drive my 52 B-3-C daily and have for the last 4 years. It has never left me stranded and is easy to maintain. And it is basically very close to stock. The mods I have made is swapping out the rear axle for a 3.55 Grand Cherokee axle to gain the more usable ratio and disc brakes. I paired that up with the Rustyhope disc fit on the front and a modern M/C. I also fitted a 6v alternator and a few other electrical upgrades like an electric fuel pump and Pertronix ignition. Oh yah I insulated / soundproofed the living daylites out of the cab. It really works well and I did not create a monster or something that has a limited life span. Jeff
  16. Mark; Maybe I am wrong?........but it doesn't look like you are going to have enough room for your right foot when you are off the pedal. Build quality looks great! Jeff
  17. I always look for practical solutions for maintenance type issues. The one I have come up with here works well and is easy and inexpensive. I didn't even take my spring packs apart. I simply cleaned up the visible parts and spray painted them. When I got it ready to go back on the road I sprayed them down with Corrosion guard. I have done a couple of additional applications in the past 5 years. It is simple, works well and there is no greasy mess. Try it you will like it. Jeff
  18. Brad; I am more than slightly acquainted with the way this sort of stuff works. It was probably a viable option / solution back in the day. Very popular on some Brit stuff. But then they didn't have some of the products we have at our disposal these days. Modern corrosion inhibitors are light years beyond that technology.......even the cheap stuff that PB Blaster makes. Trust me an application every couple of years will protect much better than gaiters. And best of all no nasty secrets hiding under the covers......🧐 Jeff
  19. I don't really like the idea of spring covers. Seems like a good place for moisture and rust to start..... This spray I have used on my daily driver is a corrosion inhibitor. It looks clean and works well. My truck lives outside and I have over 20,000 miles on it since I put it together. Jeff
  20. Yes that would work too. I really like the PB stuff. It seems to form a film and does not attract dirt. Stays on good and does not wash off easily. Aerosol application is easy too. Jeff
  21. I used a M/C from a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee in my 52. Works very well. There is enough room in your truck for one of these even with an adapter plate. One of the reasons I chose this M/C is that it is a direct match up to the Grand Cherokee rear axle I fitted. Having 12" discs in the rear is really really nice. With the rustyhope kit on the front and these discs on the rear my truck easily handles the silly drivers I have to share the road with here. I just don't have to worry about braking as the truck stops much like a modern vehicle. Also the 3.55 ratio axle works well in higher speed commuting that we have here in SoCal. This installation has been pretty much fit and forget. Hth, Jeff
  22. I have found that the stock spring packs on my 3/4 ton provide a very good quality ride. One thing that really helps with this is to spray the spring packs down with PB Blaster Corrosion guard. Makes a huge difference to have springs that move like they should. Jeff
  23. I doubt there is anything wrong with using the Felpro rope seal. Most of the issues I have heard about have been focused on Felpro Head gasket failures. This problem carries over to other engines as well. I have some buddies who are professional mechanics and they just won't put an engine of any sort together with Felpro head gaskets. Too many failures.... Hth, Jeff
  24. I am guessing you are further on down that road than I am. Besides I am fairly certain someone in my family wants my truck...... Jeff
  25. On a philosophical level this is so true. But on a real world level these old cars and trucks can and will continue to live on. And it is because of the way we built them back in the day. The stuff being built today on the other hand has a extremely limited shelf life. Most of it will not be around in 20 years. Whoever dreamed up plastic engine parts and electronically controlled cars is directly responsible for this situation. Cracks me up every time I see a 10 year old BMW, Audi, Range Rover, etc........ that sold for big money when new and is now sitting in a wrecking yard because it costs a bloody fortune to keep on the road. And that is if you can even find the parts. I have a good buddy that has a repair shop and every day I take a walk through just to hear and see the completely "absurd engineering marvels" that have broken down. BMW should be required to change their adverts to say "The ultimate Leaking machine". What a joke this stuff is. Honestly by direct comparison my 67 year old truck has been a piece of cake to keep on the road. Wouldn't surprise me at all if it is still on the road 30 years from now. Jeff
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