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48Windsor

Servicing U-joints

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Hey fellers, its time I serviced the u-joints on "the Whale". I'm hearing the familiar "PING" every once in a while when starting out. I associate this with a dry u-joint.

 

I've crawled under it trying to plan my attack and have been reading up on it. My service manual doesn't describe the process in any great detail. Do you have to disassemble 

the park brake to service the front u-joint or do the bolts that hold the u-joint to the tranny companion flanges stay in place once the nuts are removed?  Any tips or suggestions

on servicing this thing is appreciated. Then on to trying to locate replacements.

Thanks

Tom B

park brake ujoint.jpg

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U Joints for your C38 six cylinder Chrysler are very Expensive....that's if you can even find them.

Disassemble them carefully and with good proper tools.... Keep all the caps/ parts in the original order and clean them carefully and thoroughly.. keep your fingers crossed there is no wear on any parts.

Re-pack them with high quality grease.

The prices on these are $$$$$ and hard to find because they also fit some of the early Chrysler 300 cars.

U Joint Cross JC (5).JPG

U Joint Press at JC 1957 Chrysler 300C Small 947550 (9).JPG

u joint with wings.jpg

Edited by Dodgeb4ya

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What's the part number on these? Can they be cross referenced to say a Spicer number? If so then 48Windsor can call Inland Truck parts in Overland Park, Kansas at (800) 448-8436 and maybe they can get them sent to you.

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4 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

 

I knew they were rare and pricey, but WOW!  I'd be changing to a different driveshaft, rear end too if the pinion yoke can't be changed.  Modern u-joints front and rear.

 

edit:  just looked at an old Hollander and it looks like a lot of Mopar pinion yokes may work.  that is judging from the diff carrier interchange.  And several take a more available u-joint.

Edited by kencombs

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I was curious and just checked that ebay listing......$449......shite!!............does that include the guy fitting it to your car?............lol..........I'd be trying to find a listing from a bearing/engineering supply shop..........its just a normal uni joint, does not appear to be anything special by the pic...........andyd 

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Driveline shops do change to more modern joints/yokes from the Detroit ball and Trunnion style....$400.00 to $500.00.

I've worked on cars with them.

Ball and Trunnion Modern Replacement Driveline.jpg

Edited by Dodgeb4ya

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Thanks all for the suggestions and comments. Holy Crap Bat Man, that's a lot of $$$. They'ed better helicopter in from wherever they are to good ol  Kansas for that price.  A lot of knowledge out there on the subject. Changing the drive shaft to more modern ujoints seems to be the more prudent  choice. Finding a place around here to do the work would be a challenge. I would need more education on what that all entails. The pic addresses the ball/trunion but what about the rear end?? Are we talkin re-working the whole drive line - rear end,  trunion,  drive shaft or what? I've read some posts that people have opted for this but really no details on how to get there. 

While I figure this out, I'm tempted to try and take the propeller shaft out and clean and grease the ujoints just to get a few more miles out of it. They aren't squeakin yet, only an occasional ping.

Still thinkin,,,,,,,,,,,man that hurts.

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I think that ebay joint is for the rear.  That's why I mentioned changing the pinion yoke in my earlier post.  Change it to a version that takes a modern joint and use the ball andtrunion  replacement pictured above on the front. 

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I had a new prop shaft made for my 48 Plymouth here in the UK cost me £315 (around $400 at todays exchange rate) it has modern uj's and a slip joint like dodgeb4ya's picture. New ball and trunnions joints were around $90 each end then I had to factor in shipping and duty and they still had to be fitted and maintained. New shaft is fit and forget except a couple of squirts with grease gun twice a year, I kept the original transmission and rear end.

You should be able to take your original prop shaft to a specialist shop and they'll make you a new one to bolt back in.

I would imagine the price of those original uj's is only gonna keep rising as they become scarcer.

 

Regards........ Simon.

 

 

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2 hours ago, Plymouthy Adams said:

I am surprised the man can afford to ship free at that price...

 

I think he's also throwing in a certificate for a FREE LUNCH.

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21 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Gee, if I read this correctly, it would be $900.00 for two joints.😲 Really expensive for sure.

John R

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15 hours ago, Dodgeb4ya said:

Driveline shops do change to more modern joints/yokes from the Detroit ball and Trunnion style....$400.00 to $500.00.

I've worked on cars with them.

Ball and Trunnion Modern Replacement Driveline.jpg

THIS^^^^^^^^^ If Dodgeb4ya can provide those Spicer part numbers then you can call Inland Truck parts in Overland Park, Kansas at (800) 448-8436 and maybe they can get a new driveline sent to you. They will ask you for the length you need.

 
  •  
Edited by Silverdome

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17 hours ago, kencombs said:

I think that ebay joint is for the rear.  That's why I mentioned changing the pinion yoke in my earlier post.  Change it to a version that takes a modern joint and use the ball andtrunion  replacement pictured above on the front. 

Chrysler sixes use this 947550 MoPar  joint up through 1952  front and rear.

later... 1955 on up certain models use them on the rear only.

One reason this part hard to find joint is so costly is it also fits the early Chrysler 300's..... the guys with maybe too much $$ to spend.

Though no one is scooping this replacement joint up.

Edited by Dodgeb4ya

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here is the part numbers for a modern drive line made for a 1950 Plymouth 4 dr. that Pete a long time forum member who no longer shows up here often as he has sold the car a few years ago.

I just looked a the date on the bill-2008!  Guess prices have gone up some!! 😒

 

 

driveline4.jpg

Edited by DJ194950

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1 hour ago, DJ194950 said:

here is the part numbers for a modern drive line made for a 1950 Plymouth 4 dr. that Pete a long time forum member who no longer shows up here often as he has sold the car a few years ago.

I just looked a the date on the bill-2008!  Guess prices have gone up some!! 😒

 

 

driveline4.jpg

 

Just for grins I ran searches for the parts listed in the invoice above. They are readily available and listed below are some (not necessarily the least expensive) of the links I found (in same order as listed on invoice):

 

https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-2-2-349.html

 

https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-5-1310X.html

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-3-8001kx?seid=srese1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI0Jnjv8qK4wIVkp-fCh34jQYOEAQYASABEgIxHvD_BwE

 

https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/SPI-2-28-437.html

 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sdh-2-40-1521

 

$318.83 + tubing + labor

 

The tubing should be a stock item at any driveshaft shop:

 

https://www.northerndrivetrain.com/product/NDT-24-30-42.html

Edited by Sam Buchanan

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You can forget Bernbaum and Kanter for the u-joint kits.  I just bought the last one NOS Mopar from Bernbaum, but I can't use it because I can't find my C-clamps which connect the driveshaft to the driveline.  There are two types of u-joint for these Chryslers and DeSotos.  One has the bolt holes right in the bearing caps as pictured above, and the other has a big hole in the center of the cross, and uses C-clamps, which don't come in the rebuild kit.  Marc.

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I have PM'd you on the Desoto U-joint retaining straps twice. I found four of them.

PM me if you like.

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I'm pretty sure I have 2 of these joints that came with a bunch of Desoto parts I purchased. No boxes so I cant tell if they are new and covered in Cosmoline and dirt or take offs. If they are take offs they have not been one a car for 20 or 30 years.

 

If someone wants to send me measurement of the cap diameters,  cross width, and hole spacing I will verify.  I don't anticipate ever needing them so I would be willing to part with them for way under that Ebay listing. 

 

I also have what appears to be a replacement kit for the two winged caps/ holes. This kit is new as the card board needle bearing retainers are still in the caps. Box is marked 858002.

 

 

20190628_132546-864x1152.jpg

20190628_132527-864x1152.jpg

20190628_132607-864x1152.jpg

20190628_132555-864x1152.jpg

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Dodgeb4ya,   I PM'd you and message you about the 4 C-clamps, but don't have a reply yet.  Can you send me a message with price and shipping details please.  

 

Marc Capralis

 

marcapra@msn.co

951-331-1941

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Ten years ago was the time to buy.  They don't have any now.  They tried to have some repros made in China, but they were junk, so they didn't sell them.  

Edited by MarcDeSoto

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