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Everything posted by joecoozie

  1. Did you polarize the regulator/generator after removing and disassembling them? " How to Polarize 6 Volt Regulators Find your vehicle’s or machine’s volt regulator. It’s usually square, with five or six terminal screws on the side. If your regulator has five terminals, locate the terminal marked “A” on the regulator. Connect your jumper wire to the battery terminal with a clip. You might also wonder how to polarize a 6v positive ground generator. Attach one clip to the A terminal of the generator to polarize a generator on a tractor with a Delco 6V positive ground system, a Lucas 6V or 12V positive ground system. Tap the negative (-) terminal on the battery for a split second (or a spark occurs) in the other clip. Second, how do I put a 6 volt generator to the test? How to Test a 6-Volt Generator Turn on your car’s battery. It’s the simplest way to see if your 6-volt generator produces the correct voltage. The 6-volt generator should be turned on in your car. To measure voltage, turn the dial on your multimeter. Place the metal rods on the battery terminals’ ends on the two wires from the meter. How do you polarize a Chevy generator in this context? How to Polarize a 12-Volt Generator Remove the fan belt from your vehicle or machine before the generator starts. You may be able to remove it by hand; if not, use a socket set to loosen the sway bar arm. Connect the jumper wire to the generator’s armature terminal. Connect the positive terminal on the battery to the other end of the jumper wire. Why is it necessary to polarize a generator? Polarizing is performed to ensure that the Generator and Regulator are operating and charging at the same time. Simply put, working together rather than against one another to ensure that the vehicle’s electrical system keeps you running. Both are negative and positive, but they both do the same thing."
  2. How about here: https://p15-d24.com/forum/6-mopar-flathead-truck-forum/
  3. Look up Masticated Rubber on Steeles website. It is used as an anti-squeak barrier between metal parts
  4. Reverse is pull towards you and then up I gave you sort of an answer in the AACA Forum
  5. Call Then & Now..... Get a price from them to rebuild it.......
  6. Then & Now Automotive has kits for $52.50 and they really know their stuff. The $45 Ebay pump has a disclosure statement, in bright red, stating that - "Please realize that most of the parts we sell on E-bay are over 30 years old, and they will be in need of full restoration and are not leaving us here in perfect condition, but they are a good restorable parts" So this pump will most likely need a rebuild
  7. Where, on the car, did the bang come from?
  8. Have you tried to let the car cool down and then try to start it? As stated before, it could be the coil, which may fail when it is hot, and may work if it is cool.
  9. The "tube" from the carb is a vacuum line that gets hooked up to the distributor vacuum advance. The "tube" in your picture, I believe, is for the oil pressure gauge. It runs up the side of the engine block and then gets connected to a rubber line, approx. 5-6 inches long, which then connects to another "tube" that comes through the firewall and that is connected to the oil gauge. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143360940286?var=0&mkevt=1&mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&campid=5338590836&toolid=10044&customid=900c5ac296aa1d1e16a539c610dd0fc6 Keep the questions coming......
  10. You would connect the outlet side of the pump to the inlet of the carb - same as if you were running off the fuel pump
  11. That part is the Lockout assembly or Anti-stall mechanism for the Fluid Drive transmission Do you know if the engine is free or locked up?
  12. Not a Mopar but this is what I found when I pulled the manifolds. I dug an acorn out of one of the exhaust ports, too. It was crammed up against the valve stem. Those little buggers can get into some tight spaces.
  13. Can you post a picture of what you bought? Usually, the ignition switch is held in the dash by a screw that goes through the bottom of the dash and screws into the switch
  14. Sounds like the rod needs to be adjusted. If it is adjusted incorrectly it will not allow the fluid to come back into the master cylinder when you let up on the brakes. You can probably release the brakes by opening a bleeder screw - just to get the car moving again Also, you should have some pedal free-play travel before the brakes engage. The pedal should not be "hard" all the time.
  15. Quoted from KNUCKLEHARLEY: "A "weep hole" is exactly what it is. It's purpose is to allow radiator water a place to escape once the shaft bushing goes bad."
  16. joecoozie


    Don't know if you have this on your car or not: https://www.ebay.com/itm/264747281738?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=264747281738&targetid=4580359295528872&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225724&mkgroupid=1228154759183859&rlsatarget=pla-4580359295528872&abcId=9300907&merchantid=51291&msclkid=93ef76272bc010f6317114cef14e51b2
  17. I would check the float needle valve. It sounds like it is sticking. You can use a plastic handled screwdriver to tap the top of the carb where the fuel line is connected. Sometimes that frees it up. Or you can disconnect the fuel line at the carb inlet and spray some Gumout/carb cleaner into the carb inlet. That may do it, too. If not, remove the top of the carb and remove the float and needle valve and clean them up.
  18. You can use a baster to remove most of the oil but usually there is a drain plug on the bottom of the canister. If not use the baster and then use a rag to sop up the remaining oil.
  19. Good advice. You can also spray PB Blaster into the drum while tapping it to help it slide off or free up. You may need a drum puller like this one to get it off https://www.ebay.com/itm/174524725015?chn=ps&_trkparms=ispr%3D1&amdata=enc%3A1tk20o2JoSDy7WrnwEY2nGg26&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-213727-13078-0&mkcid=2&itemid=174524725015&targetid=4580153136941812&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=437225722&mkgroupid=1224856224320848&rlsatarget=pla-4580153136941812&abcId=9300906&merchantid=51291&msclkid=32d2982988301ee691bafaf05d6a48aa
  20. Going by what you said in your original post -"Sitting outdoors 10 years +" - If you are truly interested in this car I would jack it up, remove the tires (put air in them, too) and crawl around underneath the car and pay particular attention to the floors/rocker panels/trunk area/frame and body mounts. I don't care how dry an area the car is located in, sitting on dirt for 10+ years can wreak havoc on the underside of ANY car. Also, check to see if the engine is free or stuck by trying to turn it, by hand, using the fan - you may have to put some (hand) pressure on the fan belt so it doesn't slip while trying to turn the engine. Just make sure you check it out thoroughly, top & bottom, before diving into it headfirst. BTW (not that it matters much) - I had a 1954 Belvedere 4-door way back in the late 70's. It was yellow/white. 3-speed. It "ran" but boy did it smoke like a chimney. Also, the rear springs (and you should check the ones on this car) were so worn out that when I drove at night with the low-beams on I was constantly getting "flashed" by on-coming traffic because they thought I had the high-beams on. Because the rear springs were so worn that made the back end of the car sag and it raised the front end up appearing to on-coming traffic that I had the high-beams on.
  21. I looked at my Chrysler and it looks like this: The 2 that are diagonal to each other are the heater core feed/return hoses. The 3rd one, almost in the middle of the firewall, is for a drain hose for the cowl vent.
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