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Everything posted by 48Windsor

  1. Yeah, the accelerator pump is my first thought also. It does need to be corrected. But, its being difficult to pinpoint as it seems to vary. I would say it idles fine in neutral, and it does fine in gear. It seems to die most when at a moving idle. Coming home from a little group gathering today, it up and died after the down shift idling around the driveway to garage.
  2. My old Windsor 6 cyl fluid drive is getting pretty flakey when moving slowly after the downshift in both high and low range. It will just up and die. Starts right back up. If I feather the accelerator it will go ahead and speed up and shift normally. It only happens when trying to idle along or when I barely touch the accelerator. Could the points in the governor be causing this, or the solenoid or ign interupter?? Its been pretty flawless for two years until now. Its kind of hard to translate whats happening. I've adjusted the about as high as I dare to still get a proper shift I've read
  3. Yeah, I replaced them myself. There are several uTube videos out there that show how to do it by laying the drive shaft on a 2x4, two sockets and a large hammer. Sounds vicious but it works well. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m49STKK4pWY
  4. I thought I would re-visit this with you all on what I ended up doing. I went ahead and bit the bullet and purchased 2 NOS u-joints from Bernbaum. Roberts was out of stock. I figured if it was good for 71 years, it should last the few more years I have it, especially since these are greasable. The old ones are not. Its been 30+years since I've serviced u-joints but it all went pretty smooth. The cause of the "PING" I was hearing came from the rear u-joint. Fortunately they weren't dry yet and wasn't squeaking. The two caps attached to the drive shaft were starting to wear. Sorry for
  5. Thanks all for the suggestions and comments. Holy Crap Bat Man, that's a lot of $$$. They'ed better helicopter in from wherever they are to good ol Kansas for that price. A lot of knowledge out there on the subject. Changing the drive shaft to more modern ujoints seems to be the more prudent choice. Finding a place around here to do the work would be a challenge. I would need more education on what that all entails. The pic addresses the ball/trunion but what about the rear end?? Are we talkin re-working the whole drive line - rear end, trunion, drive shaft or what? I've read some posts t
  6. Hey fellers, its time I serviced the u-joints on "the Whale". I'm hearing the familiar "PING" every once in a while when starting out. I associate this with a dry u-joint. I've crawled under it trying to plan my attack and have been reading up on it. My service manual doesn't describe the process in any great detail. Do you have to disassemble the park brake to service the front u-joint or do the bolts that hold the u-joint to the tranny companion flanges stay in place once the nuts are removed? Any tips or suggestions on servicing this thing is appreciated. Then on to
  7. I drive mostly 2 lanes in the old girl. When I pass a semi, the hood pops up, thank God for the safety latch. I can see no adjustment for the main hood latch. The cable is nice and lose so it shouldn't be a problem. Any suggestions for making this thing stay where its supposed to?? Thanks
  8. Knuckle, she was actually surprised how easy it turned when moving, the brakes- now that's a different story. She squealed a little bit (and I don't mean the tires) when she went to stop. I told her to just stand on it! Thanks all. Tom B
  9. My oldest daughter made it home for Christmas. On a run into town she decided she wanted to try out the old whale. She was pretty proud of herself as was I. Mechanical things tend to petrify her. Made my day!
  10. Looks very nice!. Keep us posted on the conversion.
  11. Here's a pic or two. Don't look too closely, its a driver! The interior was redone back in the 80's. Although not original, I believe its similar to original. Recently saw a 47 with the same upholstery only with moth holes in it.
  12. Thanks. No jump seats. As you can probably guess, it was the only Mopar there. Lots of comments and questions from people
  13. Didn't have anything going on today so decided to run in to a small car show - about 50 cars. The Old Whale got into the Top 10. Heck, I was happy they didn't make me remove it from the lot! About 75 mile round trip. No issues. Celebrated with a pint at a local brewery on the way home.
  14. Hey fellow Kansan, welcome to the forum. I'm over here in Rossville. I had the same problem with my fluid drive. From what I understand these trannys are pretty bullet proof. Make sure the engine rpms are around 450 or so at idle or it won't shift. But the Gyromatic might be different. Someone will be along with more experience. Might check out this link http://www.imperialclub.com/Repair/Transmission/index.htm Tom B
  15. I had the same symptoms. Had the guy that rebuilt my generator check it out. Reg was bad. Replaced and gauge reads steady now. Got mine from The Brillman Company.
  16. Thanks. Kinda makes sense. I believe I remember the previous owner saying he got both a new tank and sender from above company. No wonder it doesn't work.
  17. I'm not that experienced with trouble shooting electrical stuff. I have a two wire sender on the tank. I have continuity between the center post and the flange, side post and about everywhere on the sender. Seems like the center post should be isolated. Just need to know if that's correct or if a new fuel sender is next step. Gauge shows empty. Have power to the power wire at the sender for the center post. I read some trouble shooting info somewhere on here but can't find it again. I see Tanks Inc. have a sender for early mopars for $35. 73 ohms empty, 10 ohms full. Anyone used one of
  18. Nice! It always feels great when they fire up when leaving the show and you make it back home. Did the same this weekend on a 70 mi. round trip. All was good when I pulled back in the shop, even with the 90 degree heat.
  19. I just replaced mine. By loosening the screws I was able to raise the cowl vent on my Chrysler to get enough clearance to squeeze in some weather strip adhesive and slip it in. Put the screws back in, closed the vent to keep is pressed down into the groove. Still staying down nicely
  20. Had mine rebuilt at Terrill Machine De Leon Tx
  21. Well, I went ahead and engineered one, be it right or wrong. I really don't see much need for it. There isn't much space between the hood and radiator anyway. I used "door sweep" rubber. Its fairly pliable. We'll see how it holds up to the heat. I'll give it a shot since I'm not out much. Max, thanks for the tip on a source. Tom B
  22. I finally found it under Downloads Categories. No Staples. The material is pinched in place in the slots in the metal. Still looking around the shop for some type material to use. . Thanks
  23. Finally got a new camera. Here's a pic of the crusty hood to radiator seal. How important is this? It looks like the original stuff was pretty heavy duty. Guess I'll look around for some type of material to replace.
  24. Has anyone replaced their hood to radiator seal? I haven't found any replacement from Steel Rubber, Andy B, or Roberts. I did a little cleaning up under the hood and the seal of course so crusty and brittle is was useless. Its a metal, two piece affair that attaches to the radiator. The seal is pinched into a few slots in the metal. Sorry, no camera for pics. Just wondering if some type of standard weather seal would work. Thanks for any info. Tom B
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