Me and the B-1-D

[Worden18]

1-26-21:

Took some of my wheel bearings and brake parts into work for a final cleaning with solution and compressed air.  Talk about chipping away at it.... I feel pretty good about it.

[Worden18]

March 9, 2021:

My son and I removed the brakes and components from the passenger side front tonight. I had to grind off one of the cotter pins, but thankfully after that I was able to get the castle nut loose.  Everything is pretty dirty of course. This time I took notes! ? 

Tomorrow night we'll see about cleaning up all of this mess.  Sorry no pics this time.

Edited March 10, 2021 by Worden18

[Merle Coggins]

Did you get the rears all back together?

[Worden18]

14 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

Did you get the rears all back together?

No, everything is still lying on the floor. The drums are off and the axles are apart. Brake shoes and accessories are still hanging there. But I'm making progress. I'm slow but that's the way it is for now. ?

[Worden18]

4-13:

Working on the brakes again. after several failed attempts with different tools, I finally used a snap ring pliers to remove one of the horseshoe clips.  The nut is seized up on the opposite side so I sprayed it again with WD-40.

 

Picture number 2: after further inspection it looks as though my rear shoes have a quarter of an inch of meat on them. They darn near look good enough for me to clean up and reuse. What do you guys think?

 

Picture number 3:

Some cleanup on the passenger side front. I scraped off most of the gunk and sprayed everything up with WD-40. I'll make sure it's spotless before I put it back together.  

 

[Young Ed]

You need to up your game to get those nuts loose. Trade that WD40 for liquid wrench, PB blaster, or one of the other penetrating sprays. 

[billrigsby]

 

I have not used this, but I hear it is great stuff...

 

Mouse Milk

 

[ggdad1951]

I like AEROKROIL.

[JBNeal]

additional information - Marvel Mystery Oil

[dcotant]

21 hours ago, ggdad1951 said:

I like AEROKROIL.

 

I am Kroil man myself. Used to use Liquid Wrench before they "deoderized" it. Worked better than the new liquid wrench products. After all these years I still remember the smell of it due to heavy usage here in the rust belt. The smell of Kroil is very similar so I wonder.....

[RobertKB]

I’ve always had good luck with PB Blaster.

[billrigsby]

Another homemade one is ATF and Acetone,

not sure, maybe 50/50.

 

 

Edited April 16, 2021 by billrigsby

[Worden18]

8 minutes ago, billrigsby said:

Another homemade one is ATF and Acetone,

not sure, maybe 50/50.

 

 

That's what I'm using right now. I've had great luck with that in the past. There was nothing so far I haven't been able to get loose.

[Merle Coggins]

@Worden18 How's the brake job on this guy coming along? It seems that the American, Meadowbrook, and B2C are getting all the love lately. 

[Worden18]

4 hours ago, Merle Coggins said:

@Worden18 How's the brake job on this guy coming along? It seems that the American, Meadowbrook, and B2C are getting all the love lately. 

I've been putting it off Merle.  If I can finish the return spring kit in the American tonight, the B1D is next.

[9 foot box]

   To get those horseshoe clips off, get a piece of 1/8”x 1 1/4” flat stock. Grind the end down on one side to .100”, to fit into the slot. Tap the clip back and you should be able to finish getting it off with a screwdriver. I’ve had my best luck by heating a nut thoroughly with a propane torch and immediately quenching with water. I would use those shoes. On a previous picture, it seemed like the shoes had not been major adjusted, the arrows were pointing towards each other. I mention that because with the brakes properly adjusted, they may require a break in and might grab at first. The shoes should also have a chamfer on each end, and bonded shoes should have a slot down the middle. I don’t think a B1D needs the slot for cooling, but the chamfer would prevent grabbing. IMO Rick D.

[Worden18]

11-30:

I got three of the four anchor bolts off of the rear brakes using my trusty Craftsman impact.  The the last one is soaking, and I'm sure will be a bear to the very end.  Can't say I didn't do anything. ?

[Brent B3B]

Glad to see your back at it, I am sure you’ll get it ?

hopefully the nut and pin don’t spin on you before you get the nut loose.

 

I had that issue on the GA I last worked on.

I ended up throwing everything back together and used the shoes to push against the drum. For me it held the anchor pin in place enough to zip the nut off. 
(and heat is your friend ?)

 

 

[Gaige]

So I know I’m 6 months after this post, but I’m now trying to put the back brakes back together on the B1D. On the inside of the brake drum the bearing just seams to rest up to the seal. Another words it will push in a little bit. Is that normal or should it be tight up against the seal. ?

 

not the outside bearing, just the inside one.   And yes my grandson and I wrestled these drums for 4 hours or more. 

[Merle Coggins]

The bearings should all be packed with grease. Then the inner bearing goes into it’s mating bearing cup in the drum and the seal gets pressed into the the drum. Once the drum is in place the bearing will slide onto the spindle and press against the step where the seal rides. The bearing shouldn’t touch the seal once it is all installed. 

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

  I measured the location lengths carefully and the bearing does not contact the shaft seal face due to the radius. I don’t recall the distance between the seal and bearing but believe an 1/8” or so clearance depending the seal that you use. 
   Recommend measuring the seal contact surface dia for size before seal installation to verify the combination is compatible. The seals I originally purchased were .020” o/s and would not have sealed anything. 

Edited March 24, 2022 by 47 dodge 1.5 ton

[Gaige]

Thanks for replying back. We definitely packed the bearings ,inner then the outer. Installed them and tightened down the drum. I know it’s recommended to put all new seals and bearings in at this point, but I didn’t. 
 Then l was lying in bed thinking about the inside bearing being loose inside the seal. I believe I’ve only seen bearings tight to the seals. All seems tight and spins smoothly without noise. My goal was to redo the brake wheel cylinders and (shoes if needed) they looked really good, it still had the remanufactured stamp on them.  New wheel cylinders, brake lines,and master cylinder. ..and now on to filling the (master? Cylinder) with brake fluid.   DOT3. Is that the right fluid. 
 

thanks again 
 

[Gaige]

[47 dodge 1.5 ton]

Dot 3 is correct. I would really look the seals over good as the brake shoes are getting expensive to replace if any failure. The only reason I needed to replace my rear shoes was due to being oil soaked.

[Gaige]

Thanks, I looked them over, no oil, grease . Also the NAPA fellow looked the shoes over before smoothing up the drums. (Just a touch)