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Everything posted by ggdad1951

  1. I've always tightened till TIGHT untill you can get a cotter pin thru the hole and slots on the castle nut. That taper can be decieving....tighter than you think than with a straight hole.
  2. you should be able to find the info here: http://dodgepilothouseclub.org/know/ph_parts/pilothouse.htm that is located on this web site via: Resources -> Pilots Knowledge find the section you are looking for and you can root down to the proper fasteners.
  3. That lives on the back of the stake pocket and the tailight bracket lives on the front.
  4. That will be the REAL test...considering the grid can barely handle current loads (Kalifornia for sure)....add a few million more people and then everyone's EV and see what happens...IMO it's all to "make a statement" with zero math/common sense behind it.
  5. Nut welded on the stake pocket before assembly to the bed side if its like the B series?
  6. Welcome! Yah the doors on these boys tend to get the rust monster at the bottom. Depending on your skills and or depth of pocket, fixing the current doors is the best bet IMO, as even donor doors run the risk of rust waiting to pop thru.
  7. A tach does wonders for what the engine is actually doing.
  8. Open the pictures up on a laptop or desktop computer application like "Paint" and resize them down that way. I know of no way to do so on just a cell phone, short of changing the settings on resolution on the original picture.
  9. I think I need to get you a dictionary to determine what "rule" means if you apply it to the 48-50 over the 51-53's.... 🤪
  10. Did you spike those ties together? Hate to see one roll on ya!
  11. ALTIMETER? Now THAT is a fancy truck! 🤣 (assuming autocorrect error)
  12. The upper one, if it's near the seam where the A pillar hits the roof, that's where mine did its thing...tightened the bezel too much. Good news it's flat glass, can be sourced locally and won't break the bank.
  13. well this sucks, I know I placed an order the day I put this up, but it seems they cancelled it...now out of stock. DRRRRR.
  14. I've never had a pin fail, but I've had the diaphram break down (brand new Antique Auto part) and got gas in my oil...
  15. Where did you crack? New glass? Certain areas you have to be careful with when putting new glasss in and putting the inner bezel on (I know from experience).
  16. Are you double clutching to go down from 3rd to 2nd? That is required. What speeds do you want to attain?
  17. Just a comment is all if someone asks. Too many things are passed off as a restoration where they aren't.
  18. Yah it DOES look like that? I know MANY builds that have small changes from stock like that, but the owner didn't know about or see. A beautiful truck, but not a fully stock resto, depends on if the PO wanted that or sold it as that as well.
  19. 1951 B3D (1 ton) fully stock with all the gears (radial tires a little taller than than the bias ply) and such. I think what got me to that speed was putting in an actual tach. The engine SOUNDS like it's going to explode, but really sitting only at 2600 RPM or so. LOTS of fan noise since its direct drive and not clutched. Now, steering response and braking distance at above 60 mph with a stock set up is a bit different story.
  20. odd, I've had to get several parts from him and always found him responsive...more via text and FB mesenger tho vs. a direct call.
  21. define slow, my 1 ton stock gears I can get 55-60mph.
  22. as small as it is...scale is sometimes sacrificed I think.
  23. maybe a few other B3/4 owners can chime in with a request to make those years? I dropped them an email inquiry about doing so.
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