Gaige
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Everything posted by Gaige
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Looks like that would definitely help with a lot of items with the pedals. Thanks for the idea
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Ok. I have some good ideas now. I’ll just have to get back at it. Thanks
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Thank all of for responding. These sound like great ideas. I thought maybe I was the only one bothered by the “bang”. Zip ties, heater hose, foam rubber. Also pushing the draft seals underneath. I will be trying one of theses soon.. I’ll see what miscellaneous inventory I have in the barn..
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Thanks, I never thought (or my family) we would see it going down the road on its own. I tried to stay as original as I could. The paint was my grandsons idea. Brent, that sorta of looks like my draft seals. Thin flexible rubber that I couldn’t get to stay on the floor cutout. They fit so tight on the pedal arms that it just rides up and down. They are both on top of the floor, perhaps I should push them down under so they would be the bumper. (But I don’t believe as thin as they are would do much) JB. My thought as well is to put some kind of rubber on the pedal arms. Is the floor REALLY where they were designed to hit and stop?
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So we have the BiD up and running short trips down the road. Upshifting is not too hard to get, but the downshifting double clutching will take more trips. Here is the question though. Is there some sort of bumper to stop the pedals from banging the floor pans? Or do we invent some rubber bumpers, or just “that’s the way it should be”. ? Has anyone else had this concern ?
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Thanks, I looked them over, no oil, grease . Also the NAPA fellow looked the shoes over before smoothing up the drums. (Just a touch)
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Thanks for replying back. We definitely packed the bearings ,inner then the outer. Installed them and tightened down the drum. I know it’s recommended to put all new seals and bearings in at this point, but I didn’t. Then l was lying in bed thinking about the inside bearing being loose inside the seal. I believe I’ve only seen bearings tight to the seals. All seems tight and spins smoothly without noise. My goal was to redo the brake wheel cylinders and (shoes if needed) they looked really good, it still had the remanufactured stamp on them. New wheel cylinders, brake lines,and master cylinder. ..and now on to filling the (master? Cylinder) with brake fluid. DOT3. Is that the right fluid. thanks again
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So I know I’m 6 months after this post, but I’m now trying to put the back brakes back together on the B1D. On the inside of the brake drum the bearing just seams to rest up to the seal. Another words it will push in a little bit. Is that normal or should it be tight up against the seal. ? not the outside bearing, just the inside one. And yes my grandson and I wrestled these drums for 4 hours or more.
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On a side note, I put it in three times. Probably only three ways to put it in and I bolted it together wrong twice. Of. Course, then I looked at the manual.
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A picture of mine on a 48 after I installed it.
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Thanks JB, the pictures help. I’ll be attempting it soon.
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the spring I was talking about and the old clamp.
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Thanks Dodge B4ya,. I’ll look For that hole.
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Thanks fellows — the spring does look. Like it may be for abrasion protection. The old cable has the clamp on it..Good one about the P clamp. unrelated —- I’m also putting in my new windshield, but the inside trim around the window has staples in the edge of it. I’m told it had (welting) on it. Is it needed? Should I be concerned about finding some to put it back on?
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Thanks Worden—I have that hole in the floorboard— but I could not remember where I took cable out from. I think I may have a grommet on hand that will fit there. There is also a spring around the new cable from Roberts, any idea where it goes ? For support?
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Looking for some B1D knowledge. I am ready to install a new speedometer cable after being apart for 4 years. I can’t seem to find a picture of where and how to route it from the transmission to the speedometer. Does it go through the floor, inside the cab. (under the mat, close to the firewall) or out into the engine compartment and back through the firewall into the speedometer? Grommet through the floor and or firewall?
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Yes, the last 3 (middle) boards had to have the forward edge routed out twice the depth (length ?) of the others. This way they slipped in but then we pulled it toward the back to be flush. Right behind he cab we will have a large treasure chest to cover he lengthy router marks. It is all a work in progress as we go .. we also had about 3 unusable boards and a few could lay flatter too!
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I believe we started with 2” maple boards. We had to notch the ends and the side boards to get them seated under the rails. Then we coated it with pecan stain and polyurethaned 2 coats, so far. Also we only put 1 screw in instead of the original 2 in each board/support..the gap in the bed was taken care of by another wider board we had. So far a 4 year project, hopefully on the road very soon. each board/railw It’s been a 4 year project truck so far. Hopefully on the road soon.
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Great looking truck.
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My steering wheel would not come off easily either. Borrowed a wheel puller and I got a “split collar” for the wheel puller to pull on the bottom of the steering wheel. I used an extra nut on top of the shaft as to not mushroom it out and ruin the threads. Now, even with the wheel puller I needed to smack the split collar a few good times with a hammer. And then, “Bam” it popped off.
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Thanks for all the quick input on welting. I searched on this forum but apparently did not search the right description. I’ve read the additional old post that were referenced, much appreciated. So, I am trying to keep as near original as possible, (although sometimes I don’t know why) I am going with the flat welt not the piping type. The front grill section was never taken apart and It does not extend out of the joint crevice.. pic of just media blasted & the wood flat bed just put on.
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We’re getting close to putting the cab, front fenders, Hood, and doors back together on a 48 Dodge BiD. I see various “welt” material to use. Would there be any thoughts of the nylon verses the rubber, and if it needs to have a ridge on one side? Will any of the welt material ever show after installation? Just looking for input before purchasing.
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My 1 1/2” fender clip bolts, are not 5/16 - 24 thread THEY ARE 3/8 - 24 thread
