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9 foot box

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Everything posted by 9 foot box

  1. When I was assembling my frame and trimming the tape, it was evident that it would leak at the center. I took the glass out and reassembled the frame. Put it face down on cardboard and traced a vertical line around the frame of both windows. Then I added 1/4" more on the outside of that line. That was my pattern, and it beds the glass in the channel better.
  2. I thought my post on steering wheel, dash differences was that worthy. It was the only way I know of, to present it. It's a large file. Thank You. Index of __jfssch_Steering.html
  3. Nice fabrication, JSabah. Young Ed was referring to your other query. It's a 32-11166-1 escutcheon, from Macs Auto Parts, that looks like yours'. They seem to fit flush to the panel, and the profile may be slightly different. The center spring loaded part, might work for your replication.
  4. I measured some engines today, and from the face of the timing cover to the center of the pulley, 1 5/16". I also came up with a post from Sept. 8, 2008. I'd remove the damper and turn the pulley around, it will gain you a 1/4". Your harmonic has moved back, like Yukon said. You can run it without the damper, till you decide what you want to do. I've used hbrepair.com. for my rebuilds. The pulley only lines up one way, so keep turning it till the 6 holes line up. You and your father are doing a fine job. Pictures of a damper, with pulley both ways.
  5. My P-15 manual has a "ammeter shows high charge" heading. It seems that your field coils are grounded. Testing will tell if it's the generator or the regulator. Because it started on a stereo removal, I'd add engine to firewall, firewall to fenders, and engine to frame, grounds. I've read of some stereo installs, isolating body parts. Maybe the regulator lost it's ground, when you removed the voltage converter.
  6. Cleaning the connections at the amp gauge solved my stalling problem. Disconnect battery ground, have your light, nut driver, emery cloth, dielectric grease and whatever else you might need at hand. I only wanted to crawl into that position once.
  7. Door panels made by My Pillow Mike. Mahogany is the way to do a dash. And the grain should run horizontal. Maybe some hammered nail heads. You could trim the wood grain panels with chrome door edging, to kinda dress it up. And it has pin stripes.
  8. "Button" head stainless steel with a socket that fits the appropriate allen wrench.
  9. If you have a shop manual, there is a reference to windshield in the body section. It says to open window, remove the two screws that holds the regulator to the frame. Hold the windshield straight out and remove the screws which hold hinge to windshield. I'd be spraying those screws. If you can Dremel a slot in the screws, maybe you'll work them loose. If that don't work, dremel the head of the screws off. The screws have be removable, don't mess with regulator. Once the frame is out I would mig weld a 10-32 nut to the studs, to remove. A good steel nut, even a square one. I used S/S button head socket screws for replacements.
  10. Rockauto is good for brand and part numbers. Post a picture of your engine and car. It could make a difference on what you need, without assuming.
  11. You have pushed the pin to the broken point and the lower part of the pin isn't following through. Pull the top of the pin off and drive the lower part, out the bottom. If that works for your application.
  12. He was in July, he takes four months a year off. You could call him tomorrow at 503 364-8685. Clicking on the link doesn't seem to work, you'll have to type it in your own search engine.
  13. I've had hbrepair.com rebuild two P-15 harmonic balancer's. $200 with shipping both ways. I'm very satisfied with the results of both rebuilds. I did chuck up the assembly in a lathe to correct any belt pulley alignment. And there was a bit, that was easily corrected.
  14. Hey LowMasters, To reply to the first post, I would run Autolite 295's, at .028" with solid core plug wire. Any variance in gap and plug type causes problems. A resistor plug is set at .035". Champion's have failed me in the past.
  15. Six volt batteries don't have a long life. I would put a new group 2 battery in the car. You might have to take the top battery tray out, for it to fit flat in the tray. You will eventually, want a dual voltage charger. Your charging trick with a headlight in series won't work. The rocker panel trim should have a 10-24 screw that attaches to the front fender and a bracket at the rear that attaches the rocker to the bottom of the sill plate with a 1/4" bolt. The middle brackets should snap on. If the rear isn't on the trim, it might still be on the car when it was painted. It depends on the box of parts you were given on the purchase. Service Manuals vary on picture quality, so beware of that. I bought one for $10 that is crap, compared to the worn one I got, when I got my first P-15.
  16. That's great Rodney. I wanted to see a shifter on a R-10 transmission. I posted three other pictures, on the car side. I'll add this one to my file. Thank's again.
  17. On the car side of this site, someone asked about a floor shift conversion. Could you take a picture of your shift linkage? Thank You.
  18. Here are a few pictures that I've saved. I asked Rodney, on the truck side, to post a photo of his 36 Dodge truck shifter.
  19. Mac's Auto Parts has a few window regulator small gear assemblies. There are 5,6 and 10 tooth. 28-23460- 5 tooth, 28-23462, 32-61850, 32-68151- 6 tooth and 32- 68149- 10 tooth. The repair may have used the wrong gear. It shouldn't have failed on both windows. As a guess, I'd go with the 5 tooth, but you won't know, till you get one of your regulators out, remove the three rivets and determine why they failed. Or, I don't think that you can fix it, and you should sell the truck to someone in Whitehall,MT.
  20. I used a RetroSound dual voice coil speaker for the dash speaker.
  21. Stant sells a 10308, with a lever to release pressure and a 10208, that is a regular cap. Both 4 lb. Or a 10203, that is a non-pressure cap. As an edit. The earlier radiators with the larger flange, use an R-4 cap.
  22. Your going to need a universal hub puller to do your brake job. put that on your Santa list.
  23. From the picture in #15 post, I would turn the puller over and put the center bolt in from the other side. Then you can use washers on the two bolts. I think the puller should be flat across that surface. Third times a charm, Thomba48. Use a drop or two of oil on the threads of the puller so you don't pull the threads on the casting, by using it dry.
  24. I've put drain holes on the outboard body supports on my cars. Road dirt accumulates till it's packed. Next Spring, you might want to flush the nests out of the frame. While your on the mend J.T., have you looked at the Resources and Technical tabs on the banner of this forum? It's some good information.
  25. I just seen this site that might work. Buy four lids, two filters, another adapter. Use a hole saw on two lids to fit the adapter flange. Try 6" x 2 1/2" round paper air filter element. Top Street Performance. SP7117 air filter, SP7512A top.
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