Steve C Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 New to this forum, here is a pic of my project, it has been sitting for 24 years and vegetation had overtaken the bed. Also included is a pic of the data plate, were these trucks built in Mexico, or were they exported to Mexico? I am just starting to assess the engine, have been doing the ATF/Acetone treatment, hoping that it isn't stuck. 2 Quote
Los_Control Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 Welcome to the forum Steve. o/ I also am new, been here a few weeks and is a wealth of info here. A very active forum for such ugly trucks I actually just got my 1949 B1C, I was researching some about it before I made a deal for it, and actually posted here before I bought it. This forum, the enthusiasm, the knowledge, And the fact I fell head over heals in love with Molly, all played in the decision. Molly has been sitting since 1978. I did add 10/40 oil to the cylinders and let it soak for a few days, I tried to turn it over by hand with the plugs out, and it turns fine. So I dont really think it was froze, but added some more oil anyways and turned it by hand some more. I then found a youtube vid on rebuilding the carb, is really simple. I tore mine apart and just soaked it in dawn dish soap and water, scrubbed it with a tooth brush and air dried it with the compressor. Everything looked fine, it was just filthy from sitting for 30+ years with no air cleaner on it. The float bowl had a thick layer of crud on the bottom. It had to be cleaned, was no chance it would run as was. Then I pulled the distributor out. They have both mechanical and vacuum advance, Both were frozen solid on mine, the mechanical was pretty simple to clean and oil, the Vacuum part has a ball bearing the points plate rotates on, the bearing is frozen solid and been soaking in oil all night. Also the cloth wires inside the dizzy were all frayed and will ground out on the base, this is not wanted. Just saying, might be a good time to look at your fuel and ignition system, while the engine soaks, dont get in a hurry. Keep us posted on how it goes, am interested and glad to see another pilot house saved. Quote
Brent B3B Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 38 minutes ago, Los_Control said: "........A very active forum for such ugly trucks " ???? LC, That ain't no way to talk about your lady..... welcome Steve more photos when you can Quote
Young Ed Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 Never seen the data plate like that. I would guess it was built here for export. Somehow either never made it or more likely somehow made it back to the US. Quote
B1B Keven Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 Welcome again Steve, Looks like you've found a rare one! Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 Would be interesting to know the history. Does say made in Detroit. Needs a friendlyTiajuana paint job........ Quote
ggdad1951 Posted October 18, 2016 Report Posted October 18, 2016 Ugly trucks.....not a way to ingraciate yourself! Lol....welcome! Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted October 19, 2016 Report Posted October 19, 2016 2 hours ago, ggdad1951 said: Ugly trucks.....not a way to ingraciate yourself! Lol....welcome! Ya.....Homely would have been a better choice.......... Quote
Los_Control Posted October 19, 2016 Report Posted October 19, 2016 Looks like I will pay for that one Quote
Steve C Posted November 27, 2016 Author Report Posted November 27, 2016 I haven't been on the site in a while, just want to give you guys an update, the motor is not siezed, so got that part out of the way, spinning after copious amounts of atf/acetone, I have cleaned the oil pan, carb. oil filter pot, took off the head. The one thing I messed up was when taking off the head I pulled on the heater hose too much and broke off the heater control valve (rookie that I am)..anyways, is there a preferred method to remove the bottom of the valve from the head? I have included a pic. below. Any help is appreciated. Steve C. Quote
Merle Coggins Posted November 27, 2016 Report Posted November 27, 2016 I would try an "easy-out" or internal pipe wrench to extract the broken piece. If that's not available you could try a small file to file away the fitting material and carefully dig out the remaining pieces. But be careful not to damage the threads in the head of you may not get a new one to seal. Merle Quote
Jeff Balazs Posted November 27, 2016 Report Posted November 27, 2016 You might also want to try repeated application of localized heat and penetrating oil. Often times patience wins out over stuff like this. Jeff Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 27, 2016 Report Posted November 27, 2016 that metal looks to be very thin and you may well be able to chip it out carefully with a scribe once you have the first few threads clear you may be able to easily clean the rest with a pipe tap...do go slow...cut a bit..backit out clean the threads on the tap, inspect the hole and flick any of the pipe materal that has be cut thin with the scribe.. it does not look like you have enough meat left on the pipe to be able to bite with an easy out and NOT expand it and do thread damage in the process... 1 Quote
Dave72dt Posted November 27, 2016 Report Posted November 27, 2016 If using a screw type extractor, once it starts to bite into what little remains, clamp a vise grip onto the extractor right next to the head itself so it doesn't suck in any further. One of the biggest problems you'll face is finding an extractor large enough to bite into it without bottoming out in the head. 1 Quote
austinsailor Posted November 29, 2016 Report Posted November 29, 2016 On 11/27/2016 at 1:38 PM, Dave72dt said: One of the biggest problems you'll face is finding an extractor large enough to bite into it without bottoming out in the head. You can always cut off the end of the extractor. Use a grinder or cutoff wheel. The are cheap. Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 29, 2016 Report Posted November 29, 2016 I'd use a "Blue Tip" hot wrench... AKA an Oxy Acetylene torch..use a small tip.. say a #3 and carefully /quickly heat just the remaining insert threads red hot let em cool and the broken off threads will peel right out. A propane torch will not put enough quick heat into the threads. 1 Quote
Plymouthy Adams Posted November 29, 2016 Report Posted November 29, 2016 in both my makes of my torch line ups the small tip would be an 0, 00, or smaller yet the 000 Quote
Dodgeb4ya Posted November 29, 2016 Report Posted November 29, 2016 (edited) Yes Tim you are right ... a real small tip would be as you say....00 or 0 in either my Airco or Victor torches.. I stated a #3 is what I usually use for removing broken off spark plug threads. I consider a #4 or up big! Edited November 29, 2016 by Dodgeb4ya 1 Quote
austinsailor Posted November 29, 2016 Report Posted November 29, 2016 I've removed parts of spark plug like that, using an extractor with the end cut off. I doubt it would work on those thin threads, but I think the torch idea is right on. Tiny tip, the threads will heat red before much heat goes in the head. Heat a spot, use as sharp awl to pick them loose while red, should go well. Have one of those long tools with a magnet on the end to pull out the pieces. If they are not steel you need to find something sticky to get them. Not as worrysome they would be in the cylinder, but you don't want shrapnel floating around in there. 1 Quote
Steve C Posted December 4, 2016 Author Report Posted December 4, 2016 I ended up taking the head to a machine shop, and I have added a torch to my Christmas list and hoping Santa has one in stock! Thank you guys for all the advice, a new guy such as myself would be lost without this forum. 1 Quote
48Dodger Posted December 15, 2016 Report Posted December 15, 2016 Yes, a torch and a bunch of BFH's.......... 48D Quote
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