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Positive/Negative connections


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Posted

I'm jumping to the technical forum, after I told everyone about me buying a 47 Dodge sedan for $5,000. Now I'm starting to look at everything underneath the hood and dash, etc. Well, I's a 6 volt, positive ground, right? So, exactly how should the battery cables be connected? I'm looking down at the battery and see that a cable is connected to the positive pole to the voltage regulater and starter. The negative pole on the battery has the cable from it to a bolt on the engine. Is this right? Ed

Posted

should be positive to ground negative to battery side of solenoid unless somebody messed with it.  which coil terminal is hooked to the ignition wire?  Positive should go to the distributor terminal.  Unless some body has messed with it.  What reaction does your amp gauge have when you a) step on the brakes, B) put the ignition switch in the run position, c) does it indicate a charge or discharge when started and running?

Posted

Looking at my 47 Dodge engine compartment, I see the 6volt battery is hooked up like this: A cable is connected from the positive pole to the starter. The other cable is connected from the negative pole to a bolt on the engine. Is this right? Ed

Posted

Looking at my 47 Dodge engine compartment, I see the 6volt battery is hooked up like this: A cable is connected from the positive pole to the starter. The other cable is connected from the negative pole to a bolt on the engine. Is this right? Ed

From the factory , that's backwards.  As suggested in the second post, check the coil connections.  What way are they hooked up?  Those not familiar with positive ground systems from this era will often hook batteries up similar to their modern vehicles and will miss switching the coil connections.

Posted

O.K. Went out to check the ammeter. With ignition off, stepped on brake, ammeter moved very slightly to the left. When starting, and running in idle, ammeter moved way over to the right. Haven't checked the coil connections yet. Ed

Posted

Engine color indicates the engine was replaced or rebuilt at some point. Most likely someone installed the battery with a negative ground. You can leave well enough alone as your charging system appears to be working correctly or you can revert back to positive ground by simply reversing the battery cables and polarizing the generator. But why fix what is not broken.

 

aa_gen.jpg

  • Like 1
Posted

Yes, that's what I'm thinking. So, I want to connect a battery tender, I should connect the red clamp of tender to positive pole, and black clamp to engine block somewhere. And, yes, the previous owner did say that an earlier owner did some engine work, but he didn't know exactly what kind. Curious as to how you would know that the engine color indicated a rebuilt. To me those old flathead engine all look the same with that worn out rusty appearance. Thanks for the info, Ed

Posted

With it starting with D24 it is most likely original to the car.

If you want to dig further to confirm engine originality, check the number stamped on the left rear frame rail to see if it matches the number of the engine in the car now.

Posted

As was mentioned, engine swaps in these cars was a pretty common maintenance procedure. Engines were rebuilt by Chrysler, dealers, licensed shops, and others. Swaps of an ailing engine for one from a lower milage scrapyard car were also done. Companies like jasper and others painted their rebuilt units a corporate color. Chrysler corporate rebuilds usually had a brass tag rivited to the driver's side of the block. So the surmise that the engine is a rebuild based on the color is reasonable. While it is a D 24 number it may or may not be the original. What number is used as the vehicle ID on your ownership paper work. It has been brought up that different states and or counties used either the engine number, or the serial number from the door post. Lots of folks have seen discrepancies when their vehicles engine was swapped but the new number was never reported to the DMV.

Posted

To check that number on the left rear frame rail, is it visible from the outside, or do I have to pull the wheel off? Ed

Pulling the rear wheel is the better way to go because it gives you more access to look for the number, which may be covered in undercoating or obscured by rust and dirt.  The numbers were usually shallowly stamped and can be hard to see.  Don't forget that you have left-hand threaded lug nuts on the driver's side of the car.

Posted

Pulling the rear wheel is the better way to go because it gives you more access to look for the number, which may be covered in undercoating or obscured by rust and dirt.  The numbers were usually shallowly stamped and can be hard to see.  Don't forget that you have left-hand threaded lug nuts on the driver's side of the car.

 

Unless, like mine, someone had previously put right handed drums on all 4 wheels...

Posted

Unless, like mine, someone had previously put right handed drums on all 4 wheels...

Or on a Dodge truck I once had where they swapped drums from one side to the other. Just about gave myself a hernia working the lug wrench before I figured that out.

  • Like 1
Posted

I highlighted my lugbolts with white-out, so that I could better see the "L", to remind myself that the bolts on the left side wheels have left-hand threads.

 

Right-hand threads:  Lefty-Loosey, Righty-Tighty.

 

Left-hand threads: Lefty-Tighty is Righty.   

Posted

Or on a Dodge truck I once had where they swapped drums from one side to the other. Just about gave myself a hernia working the lug wrench before I figured that out.

My 46 was like that on the back. I swapped them quick once I figured that out.

Posted

Do you know whether you have a 6 volt or 12 volt battery?  You might have a negative ground car because a previous owner converted the electrical system over to 12 volts, which is a common but not neccessary prodedure.

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