Los_Control

Sounds awesome ... I remember a few older cars where it took forever to go from full to 1/2 tank, then the gauge would drop like a rock from there. Love the car. I bought my wife a older 70's Camaro years ago, was a 6 cyl 3 speed floor shift. Father built it for his daughter to drive in high school, was a nice car. I liked it because it was a 6 cyl, I knew the car was not beat on to hard and really was in good shape.

May be a good time to start making products in USA again .... How about condensers for our old cars. What would it take to setup a shop just to make a good quality condenser? I really have no idea whats involved in making one. Start with a single condenser for old mopars and make them good. I bet you would be selling them for a profit all over the world. Of course the same condenser will work on several other model vehicles ... later when prepared add more tooling and another model condenser. Widen the market. For the right person, might be a good way to spend some time. Look at the my pillow guy ... pick one item and make it the best. If someone had a ambitious son or grandson that was full of energy and wanted to get involved, You could easily expand into a product with more demand. With todays administration deregulating and changing tax laws, encouraging to bring back manufacturing, Today may be a good time to jump in.

Is this also true with a B1C? just saying project cars in handle shows B1C and thread says B1B ?

This is why the 3:88 gears have been hidden from dodges .... We get the 3:73's .... but oh noes no 3:88 for us

Were these words even event'ed when the flat 6 was popular? Los runs back to his corner

Anyways he has a beautiful B1C that needs rear brake drums and top speed is 45 mph ... He really needs some good advice besides my dribble. But his MSN e-mail I know nothing about and I suspect is the problem here. I have nothing to offer him but get a new email addy. maybe someone else run into this?

Doug reports that he cant send a message to info@p15-d24.com Is this correct email addy? Something seems strange here ... I am going to send a test message to addy just to see if it works for me. So I got no error sending the email to you, and he has same address I sent it to .... something is just not playing nice together here. You cant mail him and he cant mail you.

Talking with them now on FB messenger and they are trying to correct the issue.

Some of us have stumps in our lives ....

Interesting video. My truck idles cool with original honeycomb. I did flush it both ways and seems to be clear. Sadly it has about 5 holes in the tubes, just drips at idle, goose the throttle and get a shower I bought a aluminum radiator I plan to paint black but not installed it yet.

In a off topic thread I had a similar issue with a small block chevy and daily driver truck. The consensus was, no click and when turning the key the dash gauges / lights did not dim. If the solenoid or starter was bad, you would get the click and the dash lights would dim with the power draw. You do not get that, seems like a bad wire or cable or something else ... my case above I think is ignition switch going bad. Story time ... I once had a 1987 Bronco with a pretty healthy engine, headers, cam, high rise 4 barrel. new to me I just bought it. I took it on a road trip across state, I pulled into a gas station Sunday afternoon and it would not start again. Kind people offered help and a jump, I got nothing. I slept in the Bronco that night, Monday morning I walked a mile & took my starter to the auto parts store and bought a new one. Put it in and exact same issue ... nothing. Long story short, The cable from the ford solenoid to the starter was bad ... even though it looked fine. Some smart gentleman saw my dilemma, and worked with me. We figured out, I could use my jumper cables from my solenoid to the starter, and it would start ... the cable was bad. I had to do that trick a couple of times while I got to my destination, then replaced it before going back home ... but visually, I was looking at the old cable for the issue when I had it removed ... it looked perfect. But for some reason the cable would not carry the current needed to operate the starter. Go with your gut feeling, you have wires that look questionable, change them ... you have some you have no history on, might not hurt to change them also.

I have to admit, with electric start mine just turns a 1/2 revolution and fires up. Really not a stretch if someone has engine in good tune, it would start right up with a crank. Now if your engine needs to turn over for 5 min and eventually start ... you have other issues. These engines will start fine with a hand crank. If in proper tune.

I will give a vote for ospho, can get it at ace hardware and pretty reasonably priced. Been around since 1947. Brush it on or spray with a squirt bottle for hard to reach areas. It turns the rust into a black primer that can be painted. Or just left as is. Otherwise, if you want to stick with something specifically for automotive restoration and the absolute very best, I would check out Eastwood products. They have a few different levels of quality for different prices. Same time, Ace hardware sells a rust converter in a rattle can I have no xp with them and personally would stay away from no name brands.

fwiw, I am not going for a concourse restoration .... I plan to replace with a standard nut bolt washer where it is feasible. I feel they will be a better quality and a bit of a upgrade. The j nut is perfect for a assembly line and cheaper then the nut bolt washer. This will give me extra j bolts that can be used in the areas that they really make sense, like the floors, where you cant reach both sides. Not a proper solution for a restoration agreed. ... For replacements though, I have found them at local parts store in the "Help" section, but think ace hardware or tractor supply may be better choices.

I have a couple old license pates that may do double duty as a floor ... when my list of things get to floor ... there is just so many items in front ... nothing wrong with just making what you have work... Back in the day, there was no way they had the resources you or I do ... they did what they could. Never be ashamed or brow beaten from another for your work, looks great and keep moving forward.

Looks great from Texas

My brother was never a mechanic, he was known to throw a hammer through the rear window of his 72 duster while changing a tire .... he bragged how easy his 36 dodge was to start with the crank. A car I never saw, he got it in trade and quickly traded it off. I need to edit this after some thought .... was working on his brakes, first he smashed his tail lights then threw the hammer into the rear window

I would start by pulling light bulbs, I imagine if tail lights are 1157 you have 12 volt neg ground.

I would just add some basic dot 3, figure out whats wrong and correct it ... then flush the system and install the fluid of your choice. Flushing it is good maintenance. Life is to short to worry about which brake fluid to use on a 70 year old vehicle. Stock brakes, they did not have choices on fluid back then. You did not say how long the truck has been sitting to leak the fluid. Since it did leak, is time for maintenance anyways.

I think there is a whole bunch you can do yourself. I recently acquired a late model 8BA flathead ford motor, nowhere near as good as a hemi, but still getting rare. I am pretty sure it would have ended up in a scrap yard if I did not save it. So I saved it. I have no use for it, thinking a future project and to store it. I need to know it's condition, and how I will store it. Will it be a pile of parts on a shelf, or will I be putting it on a engine stand and parking it in a corner. So far it looks like I am ordering a engine stand. You need to play detective on these old engines, question is, how did moisture get in the cylinders in the first place? Mine the head on one side was removed and the fuel pump assembly on intake manifold was removed. It was parked in the barn. Guessing it had a fuel pump problem, they removed it and a year later got back to it, found the motor was stuck and removed a head, then a mouse came running out of the intake and they just walked away. Point is, I had some surface rust on the cylinders with the head off, I used a 4" grinder with wire wheel to clean the deck and then made a couple quick passes in the cylinders, they cleaned up nice. no pitting and no boring needed. Problem is the mouse nest in the intake valley, the lifters and cam shaft are rusted from mouse pee. I think, if I disassemble it, clean it, put it back together with good parts, it would probably run fine. I expect to do more with it then that. But yeah, you may just need to tear it down and clean everything and then put back together, or you may need to keep a box of handy wipes on the bench to dry the tears. So far my tear down is going good, but when I flip it over and pull the pan, I may be putting the block out back in the scrap pile. Who would ever expect to tear down a engine and find this? You just never know what surprises wait for you.

So hard to justify owning one, if you want to travel you can cruise in a old Chrysler, sleep in a motel, and eat steak dinners from a nice restaurant. All for cheaper then gas price on a motorhome. Very few situations where the motorhome makes more sense. My wife uncle died recently, and his son used part of inheritance to move to Texas 4 hours away from me and bought a 199? something 37' motorhome to live in. Then he took it to a rv shop and had it gone through totally to make it road worthy. New fuel system, rebuild carb, new tires ... the bathroom needed a new toilet and flooring ... he told them to fix it all. Then he died. Now the family wants me to go get it and park it and try to sell it ... is there any market for one? I said I would help, I think I will get stuck with it and to me is a eye sore. Still waiting on legal issues like power of attorney.

Was a time they offered the xtras for a price. Mine is a bit different also, it is a true 1949, while it has all the next year 1950 upgrades. which included the shifter moved to the column and e-brake under the dash ... numbers matching 1949 title / engine and has a 1950 motor., air ride seat .... but no arm rest for me

I am going to agree with aftermarket. I spent a few min trying to do a image search on google, also looked at what amazon offered. I could not find the logo.

What I am seeing is rust on the cylinder walls .... Maybe I need glasses ... I would not want to try and turn it over myself. OFF WITH THEIR HEADS! But pics on the internet can be deceiving. I would be concerned to save the engine, old hemi are not easy to come by.

Not something the average person cares about. When your water pump starts leaking, and you walk out and pump some grease in it and it stops leaking .... you are now a master mechanic. Just saying.