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PT81PlymouthPickup last won the day on August 5

PT81PlymouthPickup had the most liked content!

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About PT81PlymouthPickup

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Yardley, PA 19067
  • Interests
    Machinery, Travel, Fishing
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck

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  • Biography
    Yardley,PA resident working for Princeton University
  • Occupation
    Tool & Die Instructor


  • Location
    Yardley, Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Retro Rodding

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  1. Geez! They got me again. Just received a new set of Autolite 295 spark plugs I purchased online for my Plymouth. Made in China! 😫 Are any of the old iconic American brand name automotive parts made here anymore? 😟
  2. 1 to 2mm is about 1/16 inch. I don't think it would hardly run at all with that amount? I had an indicated .012" slop in mine and that was enough to make it run rough at mid range rpm but it started and idled well. Once inside the distributor I found the advance governor was completely worn out as well. It's not a bad job if you have some experience with mechanics and press / slip fits with bushings. You do need to be pretty fussy to rebuild one correctly. You should also check for bad grounds. The distributor housing needs a good ground to the block. That might be why it changed when you applied pressure? Check the ground strap inside the distributor as well.
  3. Hi Dingo, I'm one of those that Jolly suggests. Not against changing things, but being partially a purest, any changes I make can be relatively easily reversed and I've made a bunch of them on my 39 Plymouth PT. I think many on this sight might agree with me or even be more conservative about changing up our Mopars too much? If you are not aware? There is a website THE H.A.M.B. at https://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/ that I have found the best when it comes to the questions like you've asked. Lots of experienced car builders on there willing to share their knowledge and experience. On occasion, I'll catch a street rod building show where they'll take a beautifully restored or pristine original car and chop it up in all directions to build someone with too much money an abortion (in my opinion). I can appreciate the fabrication skills, but there should be a law! Lols! 😀
  4. Nah! I don't hate the player or the game! Just enjoy pulling the chain. 😉
  5. Mine starts easy enough with the electric starter. Just seems like even a half revolution would be a tough go by hand with that little crank. But watching Brent, he made that 1/2 turn look easy as pie. Ahhhh! His engine must be worn out. Lols! 😁
  6. I'm having dreams about that video. (good indication of how screwed up I am) I still can't believe how easy it started. Now, I suppose you're going to tell us it was stone cold too when you started it? 😀
  7. I agree! There were some disc / drum vehicles from the factory that did not have proportioning valves, although only a few. My worry, is that vintage auto brake systems often get tampered with by amateur mechanics and are supposedly upgraded with kits and mismatched components and sometimes will seem OK for the most part, Until a panic stop! I'm just being a voice of reason and suggest that anyone making changes to braking systems to really test them thoroughly hard somewhere you won't hurt or kill anyone before thinking you're good to go. I'm an advocate of split masters as well. I once slammed on my original brakes when a deer jumped in my path. The master cylinder failed (No brakes at all) and I almost flipped my old truck narrowly missing a head on collision. She now has a disc / drum, 2lb residual frt, 10lb residual rear, adjustable prop. valve which was needed to get the bias correct. The brakes seemed fine until I really pushed the limits.
  8. More likely Mitsubishi had the air conditioners manufactured by Chinese workers using recycled U.S. metals that were processed in China. Lols! Yeah, we gotta laugh about this stuff. But seems pretty sad where things have gone? My recent disc brake project on my truck has a Bendix master cylinder and AC Delco discs and calipers, Raybestos rear drums, and a bunch of other parts all of which were manufactured in China. I actually tried to buy stuff made in the U.S. but was impossible to find. Did I mention I don't like China! Lols! I could go on, but the moderators might through me off the site.
  9. Thanks Pete! I'm leaning towards non resistors. The AC45 plugs I have are non resistors. I might try a set of Autolite 295 plugs just because it's more Moparish under the hood. I like and have always heard good things about NGKs too, but something about Jap plugs in a WW2 era vehicle doesn't sit well with me now. My Dad, who fought during that war would get irritated with me buying Jap cars and when I visited Germany in 2001 he said: "What do you want to go there for? They were trying to kill us" Lols! I didn't used to pay much attention to him, but now I'm telling my kids to stop buying Chinese stuff. I guess what goes around, comes around?
  10. Well Ed, you better get that nut on there if you want to be a manly man and hand crank start that engine like these other fellas on here. Lols! 😀
  11. Hey! I take issue about referring to our engines as "Sloth's! 😊 Lols! My truck goes down the road at a respectable pace. It's all relative anyhow. Compared to my lawnmower, it's got warp drive.
  12. I agree with you both times Jeff. 😉 My goal also is reliability. I read on some of your earlier posts you have been using Autolite 306 plugs. My truck has had AC45 non resistor plugs which have worked well with my 12v and points. Do you think just staying with those is OK with the pertronix installed? 50mech suggested it shouldn't matter resistor or non resistor and that was confirmed by Pertronix technical rep. I'm uncertain if there is any reason to change plugs?
  13. Doug&Deb Like Plymouthy, I learned there is a lot of misinformation concerning brake conversions and other products from both retailers and forum members. Also some good information, sometimes a bit difficult to tell which is which. Lots of good opinions that you can pick through and learn from. My advice would be read a lot and be diligent on understanding details before making changes in brake systems. I will say one thing that may raise some eyebrows concerning proportioning valves. Many on here and other forums state their vehicle is just fine without one. Well, from my research that's usually not the case. Proportioning valves are important for panic stops on vehicles with front disc / rear drum setups.. If you get rear brake lockup at higher speeds you could loose control. Many of these vehicles without a prop valve will stop just fine until that rare emergency panic stop. Knowledgeable street rod builders install adjustable prop. valves in the rear circuit on custom disc / drum to correctly adjust the bias by actually testing it. Car companies use combination valves which are designed and rigorously tested for specific vehicles to set the bias considering factors such as weight, center of gravity, hydraulic pressure capabilities of components, friction surfaces, etc. For this reason combination valves are usually not used on custom brake systems by professional car builders. Just sayin; Stay safe!
  14. DJ, 50mech is a wealth of information. He has given me some great advice concerning my Pertronix install. I will add my 2 cents which is "dont mess with success" or "Leave well enough alone" Things my dad used to tell me and I never listened. If it's running well and the plugs look like they're burning well at the .035 perhaps just stick with it? Just about every time I start changing things, I get in trouble. 😬 Anyhow, If I'm reading you correctly your concern is tif you go with a wider gap with your existing plugs the electrode face and ground tab would not be parallel to each other? Interesting question! I'm not sure that would make any difference? But it seems like the spark might jump from the closest points and wear the electrode on one corner? I just put the first set of plugs in my 2008 Ford Ranger which I bought new now having 120,000 miles on it. The plug ground straps were conical in design (came to a point) Amazing with the computer controlled high energy ignitions, those plugs looked like brand new with all those miles. I almost hesitated to replace them. I remember seeing plugs shot at 10,000 miles in the old days.
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