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PT81PlymouthPickup

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PT81PlymouthPickup last won the day on August 5 2020

PT81PlymouthPickup had the most liked content!

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Yardley, PA 19067
  • Interests
    Machinery, Travel, Fishing
  • My Project Cars
    1939 Plymouth PT81 Pickup Truck

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  • Biography
    Yardley,PA resident working for Princeton University
  • Occupation
    Tool & Die Instructor

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  • Location
    Yardley, Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Retro Rodding

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  1. Sweet! Nice solution. Must of been a little tricky figuring out getting those standoffs in just the right positions before welding? Do the oem hubcaps fit well and go on and off easily? I'd like to do the same on my 39 Plymouth's rear rims which I had custom width wheels made by the Wheelsmith. I'm now running a smoothie cap which looks OK, but would be better if I could use my oem Plymouth hubcaps.
  2. I have spoken to a few vintage vehicle owners over the years that do not have any oil filtration on their engines and claim it not necessary? I know one fella that has over 150k on a ford flathead 8 without any issue. He does change the oil religiously. Seems like some filtration would be better than none? On the other hand, it would certainly be simpler having less connections to leak and not having to deal with messy filter changes?
  3. Yeah! we'll probably be driving right through those lights anyhow because we can't see anymore no matter what windshield we have. And, probably with the signal light going as well, due to hearing loss. 😀 Lols! Ain't getting old great! I'm heading to the hospital next week for fistula surgery. I'll probably have to add some padding to my seat? 😧
  4. My seat is original height to the 1939 which I believe is the same as your 41. I'm 6'-1" and I don't find it bothersome, but there is some visibility blockage when your close to a traffic light. Does your seat appear to be over padded?
  5. Well, Attempting to have "saved a few bucks" when working on vintage vehicles never seems to work out for me. 😟 Almost every time I take the cheaper way, it costs me more in the long haul. Lols! Anyhow, that Cable Connector Bracket looks like it should work well.
  6. I used a bracket which (if my memory serves me correctly) came off the Jeep I got the differential out of. I believe it was an 87 Comanche. I used an old piece of steel square tube to set it off from the frame and made a spreader bar from a piece of cr steel bar stock. It did require having custom length cables made and fabricating a couple other brackets to support the cables from bouncing around. Not rocket science, but I do remember struggling a bit with this project to get it work out correctly. Works Great! I can lock up the rears with that long lever.
  7. I'm guessing so does altitude? Or is that attitude? I'd get pretty hot if my cooling system overheats or freezes up. Lols!
  8. I believe the only advantage of pressurized systems was to further raise the boiling point of the coolant. A 50/50 ethylene glycol / water mix would boil around 227 degrees at atmospheric pressure. The same 50/50 mix would not boil until 252 degrees at 10psi on the system. I agree our systems were not designed to be pressurized. I doubt it would be wise to try that? A 20 degree thermostat increase is still amply below the below the boiling point. I do agree running our old engines at slightly higher operating temperature is likely to be better at keeping the engine cleaner, especially if a pcv system has been added. Less likely to build up moisture in the crankcase. Another thing my dad used to remind me, was to never go over the 50/50 mix. UN-reduced ethylene glycol can pass through gaskets due to it's lubricity and cause leaks.
  9. This thermostat stuff gets kinda confusing for what seems like should be a simple thing! Lols! I'm getting a headache! Anyhow, I remember some of the old cars that came to my dad's repair shop in the winter having radiators blocked with cardboard and such. Not so sophisticated as your dad's setup. I also remember my dad telling me that wasn't a good practice, because people would forget to take it out. Then on a warmer day could be overheating. I recently took my 39 truck on a couple hour cruise. The indicated engine temp was right at 160. The morning temp. was in the high 30s. It wasn't "toasty" at all in the cab. Geez! Maybe it's my blood circulation that's the issue? Lols! Anyhow, my thinking is; it might take a bit longer to open, but after that happens the stat should regulate the temp to it's rating. Seems logical what you are saying about extremely cold days. There also seems to be a few guys on here that believe running our engines a bit warmer is better for longevity?
  10. Yeah! I think that's what I'll do. I'm hoping it doesn't require any adaptation? Not that I'm against adapting a modern stat, but if I can find one that fits the housing properly, I'd rather go that route. I was hoping someone else here installed the VPW part #CC1407937 with success?
  11. After reading a bunch (and getting more confused), I"m considering replacing my 160 stat with a 180 degree thinking it is likely better for my engine and might give me a little more warmth from the heater? "Vintage Power Wagons" sell an NOS Mopar 180 degree stat that looks like the original type. VPW part #CC1407937 for $20. There's a note on the bottom of the page stating that in some cases a 1/32 hole should be drilled in the top plunger to allow some circulation before the stat opens and to vent air better? Anyone have any experience with this? Seems like a good deal if it fits properly?
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