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Alan Hensley

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  • Gender
    Male
  • My Project Cars
    1949 Dodge B1C

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  • Biography
    Navy veteran. Criminal profiler. Retired counselor

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  • Location
    Glenwood, IA
  • Interests
    Restoring antique trucks/tractors, playing fiddle, photography

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  1. Now I'm confused. Tom, I see your photos have the linkage connected to the lower cam. I also see no linkage is connected to post under the lower lever like the other carb ((D6) see photo) I removed from the '49. Judging by Tom's photo, the fast idle lever connects to the lower cam. I see a spot on the upper cam where it would logically connect. I has a hole with a slot like the one on the D6. Am I correct? Tom, could you give me the dimensions on the lever on your carb please? Perhaps I can manufacture one. Thanks
  2. I found a place to get the complete kit for the DTG1, including the leather for the dash pot -- Mike's Carbs. So that mystery is solved. In fact, I just purchased another DTG1 for parts. There is no fast idle lever on either. So, guess one is not needed? (Thanks Merle) I am restoring a 1949 Dodge B1C. My local engine machine shop has a complete rebuit 230, which would replace the 218 I now have in it. The 1949 has a standard 3 on the floor. The 1950 B2B donor truck I just finished dismantling had a 218 with a fluid drive, which meant it had the DTG1 Carb. Would I be better installing the fluid drive on the 1949 or stay with the standard 3-speed manual? Thoughts? I am going to rebuild the differential next. Who manufactured the rear ends in the 49 Chrysler, Dana, or some one else? Andy Bernbaum has the parts I need to do the rebuild. They say the parts are different 51-53. Given this truck is 70+ years old and I don't know the history, how do I tell if the rear end is original or where or not it has been replaced with a 51-53 rear end? Thanks
  3. I am rebuilding a DTG1 and, for some reason, it doesn't have a high-idle lever. Could someone who has one please send me/post a photo showing one with the lever installed and give me the the length, especially the distance from end to bend in both directions please? In fact, it you could give photos showing the four sides of the carb, it would really be appreciated. Is it the same lever used on the D6H2? I see the slot in the upper end where it would mount, I believe, but not the lower end. I have yet to find the second dashpot replacement in any kit and Mike's was no help. Would the dashpot end be the same as the accelerator pump? Could the dashpot be removed from a new accelerator dashpot and placed on the second (slotted) dashpot rod. I also am unable to find a manual that describes the DTGI like the one shown in an earlier post. Could someone who has one, post a flat copy or send me an email attachment with that info please.
  4. Thank you all SO MUCH! I will give your advice a try tomorrow. I have a 1949 B1C, and a 1950 B2B I am salvaging for parts to restore the 1949. The '49 has a three-speed transmission. The 50 has a 4-speed. Yes, the '50 has a fluid drive. The '50 was used at Fennel Auto in Missouri before they went out of business. and they made a lot of mods rather than buy the correct parts to make repairs. I would have liked to use the 4-speed instead of the 3-speed, but it is a mess. They welded a 1/4-inch frame around the top for some reason. so, think that is a no-go. The floorboard is rusted through. Just ordered a replacement floorboard and will use body panel adhesive and steel rivets, even though I have a plethora of welders. After watching videos, looks like the way to go to prevent warping and hours of stitch/spot welding. Thank you for the advice on the pulley. I will find the appropriate puller to pull it loose. Believe I can order it from Northern Tool.
  5. I'm in the middle of dismantling a 1950 engine/Bell Housing. Engine/Transmission removed. Clutch removed. Crank nut removed Bell Housing-to-engine bolts removed. How in the world do I remove the flywheel. 2" nut in the center of the flywheel. But a 2" socket with a 3/4" airwrench won't remove it. Yes, there are a series of bolts on the rear of hte flywheel facing the engine. Do I remove them to remove the flywheel? Additionally, how do I remove the crank pulley with a three-legged puller w/o damaging the belt groove. Tried to use the puller, but appeared to be warping the engine side of the pulley. Thanks
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