Los_Control

Thats cruel .... fresh blacktop has a way of twisting driveshaft yokes right before it throws out the u-joint ... Don't ask me how I know

I never made a post about Don, I will certainly take this moment to send him some love ... I hope he made the right choice and not go to the light. Today he is running around and taking care of all of us.

We found this - a 1950 Dodge B2C stake bed I think the G is a mistype, it looks to me like a B2C The difference between a B and a C is B is 1/2 ton, C is 3/4 ton. The wheel base is longer on the 3/4 ton, the brakes are 11" instead of 10" I am sure the B2C has a few extra leaf springs, for the larger 11" drums they did a 5 on 5" bolt pattern for the wheels and actually went to a wider 15" wheel instead of 16" on the 1/2 ton ... there really was not a lot of difference between a 1/2 & 3/4. I feel like I may be forgetting something ... dunno And back then you had several options to order for your new truck, so it depends what was ordered. The 218 engine is a short head block, 23.5" head length ... when you got into the larger 2 ton trucks, Desoto, Chrysler etc they had the 25" block with bigger cubic inches. Seems all Canadian cars/trucks were fitted with 25" engines ... a lot to learn there. Your B2C with the 218 sounds perfectly normal to me ... My 1949 B1C came factory with a 218, The original owner the farmer installed a 1937 218 in it ... they never changed for years and direct bolt in.

Looks like a 1950 truck 218 that is the engine ID number and if original will be the ID number on your title. Often the engines get changed over the years and no longer match the title, give you a idea if it is original engine. https://www.t137.com/registry/help/otherengines/tengines.html I remember modifying a cabinet on a old house and adding a dishwasher for a pregnant woman ... I am going to stop right there and I really hope she is doing fine and raising a fine family

I think thats why they claim they run like a sewing machine .... anyone listen to a sewing machine run knows they tick all over the place. Personally I think it just wants to be driven more, maybe 500 miles in a year? ... maybe is time for valve adjustment ... I would be hesitant to touch anything until driven more often.

Nice to see DCM offers the gaskets, I made mine. First truck I had some round rubber spline for window screens, is a little fatter then original. When I installed the speedometer in the dash and snugged it down, broke the glass The paper gasket is easy enough to make. Second speedo, the rubber was good enough to re-use. I think a guy could go to the local parts store and match up the diameter with a O-ring, possibly need 2 and put it together with 2 pieces ... just a rubber cushion to protect the glass. You can do it yourself, or spend a couple bucks and get the parts made for it. fwiw, I did not bother to replace the brass rivets, The 3 pieces speedo, glass, bezel, fit together snug enough wile installing in the dash. Now if I want to take it apart again for cleaning, just remove the mounting screws. Maybe I am just lazy and some day will rivet it back together ... we will see.

I think this may be the time to consider a frame swap with a modern 4x4 truck. Everything you want and is fine, is exactly opposite of what the power wagon was built for. Seems like you would need to change everything, gearing, axles, suspension, drivetrain. I myself am not a fan of frame swaps, think this would be a good choice for "this truck" Then I picture a suburban or pilot house sitting on the leftover power wagon frame Why not just get one running in decent stock condition, less work, time, money and drive it ... evaluate the freeway cruiser then while driving one. Going to see if I can find it, seems Jay Lenno did a episode where some guy was building what you are talking about, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0c68L_tieVs

I think it looks awesome, just keep doing what you are doing, is how we learn. The photo at the top of the page is pretty dark but looks like some active rust. using the mud is fine, but if the rust is still active, will only be a few months before it shows through the new paint. If you sprayed a rust converter like ospho on it, killed the rust, you might get 5 years or more from it. Looks like it will be in a area you will never see ... there is no right or wrong, do what works for you. Rust is something we will always be fighting on these old cars, learning different ways to deal with it will be beneficial. This conversation has helped me through a road block ... I think, I got my gallon of 85% phosphoric acid the other day and yesterday started experimenting with it and very pleased, today am getting some bigger areas have my fingers crossed. Working on the roof of the cab today.

What I bought is a Autoline C522 from rockauto, Autozone also sells them. I bought mine a little over a year ago, today they want $156 + $95 core charge. When I went to Autozone, they had some idea they needed to send my core in first then get me my new carb ... since I was never going to release my old carb for a core, I just went with Rockauto. I think I paid about $114 a year ago and I refused to give up my core. for return.I think core was about $60-$70 dollars then. I see prices are going up, probably because of grumpy old men like me that will not give up a core ... I see some day when they will be hard to find. ... so I had a extra $100 or 2, and just ordered a new rebuilt carb. Totally pleased with it. This C522 is for a truck, so a manual choke, but is a typical B&B carb, I wonder if the body can be swapped out with a cars automatic choke? I have no Idea if Autoline offers same carb with auto choke for cars. ... Autoline has a page full of available carbs by part #, not sure how you would decipher, since their # matches no oem, you would need to contact them. But yeah, at $160 today, you send your core back, I think is a great deal ... I do not see how a carb rebuilder could do a better job and still afford to feed his family. Unless he did specialty work on the side and charged you 3 times the price..

I just bought a new rebuilt carb off Rock auto for cheaper then what it would cost to re-bush one ... ya-all figure out what works for you.

Sometimes we have to be detectives and look for clues on past history of our trucks. I am pretty sure my truck was over heating and is when they decided to park it. Looking at your truck ..... I get a detective feeling that it really has not been parked for 20 years. .... Maybe 10 years, I just do not have the feeling it is a stuck ring or valve ... especially if you drive it and it does not improve. .... How long did you spend rebuilding the brakes after it sat for 10+ years? My detective feeling is thinking all of us here are being kind, and wishing soaking it will help. I honestly do not think it will. Why I am suggesting soaking it like a big dog, Just so you have no undecided feelings as you open up the engine. I really think that is where you are headed .... I am not even sure if I drank 3 spoons of mmo ... would help me be regular in the morning. I am hoping you come back and tell us, A little oil and all is like new again. I just have this feeling, with all your other compression readings and the over all condition of the truck, you will soon get to take a peek at the insides of your motor.

` There is no right or wrong answer here. I used more, but my truck was parked between 10-20 years ... seller claimed 10 years and I think closer to 20 years. My worst cylinder had 60 psi. I feel I was lucky. And I also have a imaginary number in my mind, you need 60 psi to fire. I felt comfortable soaking it well, and then running it and soaking again. I think I soaked it 4 times and is up about 100 psi now and still lagging behind the rest but a big improvement. It is possible you do nothing and it starts to improve. You might add a few table spoons and it does the trick, you may find it does not. ... My suggestion is to use a funnel, and pour it in till it wont take any more on all cylinders ... maybe over kill, You wont hurt anything, and your engine will luv you for it ... By filling the cylinders up, just allows the rings to soak a little longer because sitting a few days the oil will all leak into the pan. But the 3 cylinders with valves open, the oil will overflow down into the valve train, when you rotate the engine 1/2 way and fill it again, now the other set of valves are open and getting lubed. ... On a old flathead that is exactly what you want. The valve stems are known to get gummed up and stick. ... Valve lifts up, cam goes around and valve stays up, the gummed up oil on the stems is stopping it from operating normally. Usually you get zero compression on a cylinder with a gummed up valve. But what happens if the valve is just pokey and needs proper lube to get it working correctly ...It is still possible it is the valves causing the main issue on #3 and not the rings. It is possible, you have a bad cylinder and only tear it down will repair it. So whats your plan, 3 spoons of oil for a week and see if it works .... then add more oil and see if it works ... and 3 months later pull it apart and find the issue? My plan to fill it & soak it, after a week and you have no improvement on #3 ... you are finished with that step, next step is to remove the head and the pan, and the piston/rod ... you will know then what is wrong. Just depends how long you want to mess with it. It is possible the truck was running and broke a ring and dropped a cylinder and and the ring dropped in the pan and damaged your oil relief valve ... so previous owner parked it, instead of fixing it ... soaking it is not going to help. FWIW, fix the oil relief and leave the piston & rod out, slap it back together and run it. I had a 1949 chevy with 5 cylinders, it ran and did it's job just fine.

That is curious, you have to have some play so the shaft will operate ... only way I know to tell if it needs bushings, spray some carb cleaner on the shaft with the engine running. If it sucks in and changes the idle, then it is sucking air and will cause drive-ability issues. I assume a original carb would get more miles before it wore out and needed bushed. Say 60k on original and 30k-40k on bushed? Just a opinion backed by no facts. I wonder if the softer metal bushing can be driven out and replaced with a new one, without enlarging the original drilled hole? Honestly I do not know, my first opinion is you can only bush them once, why I would want to wait until it actually is needed. Now I am thinking, why not just drive the old bushing out and replace? Dunno.

I think this is very good advice. I would go a bit further myself, And soak all the cylinders in marvel mystery oil is what I used, Or A 50/50 mix of ATF/Acetone is also a very good mixture. I would be concerned that at 20 psi compression, I question if the cylinder is firing or just going along for a ride, the excess fuel may wash the oil out of the cylinder and piston causing more damage. I think all 6 holes would get some benefit, even if you just soak #3, maybe 2-7 days, I bet you would see a good improvement. Get that cylinder up to 60 psi then drive it. The rings spin in the grooves as the pistons go up and down, just one happy merry go round ride. When they sit and the old oil gets gummed up, the rings get stuck in the grooves and they are not so happy, #3 is not happy at all. Also if you add the oil, let it sit for 2 days, rotate engine by half a turn by hand and add more oil, the excess is going down the valves lubricating the guides which is a bonus. The next bonus, all the oil is being pushed into the muffler, When you first start the truck, you will clear out every mosquito for a 2 block radius. You will need to change the oil after this, and as suggested above, try seafoam and see if will clear up the gummy oil relief valve.

I also enjoy Kieth's video's hope he keeps them up.

And dang proud of it! My only point with bushing a carb, it is fine and acceptable practice. Just like putting a sleeve in a cylinder block. You do it when it is your best option ... not just because you can. I would not want my engine rebuilder to punch out the factory bore on my block when all it needs is cleaned and honed and is in specs. I would not want a re-builder to put bushings in my low mileage carb that did not need them. But If carb was wore out and did need them, That's fine, get er did. I will look for a better core for future use.

Here is what I am doing, not sure if it is right or wrong. I like the choices of different materials ... using the thinner black rubber gasket for my gauges on the rear of the housing, then used the cork gasket for the glass ... there is 2 thickness of the cork gaskets, when I mount my marker lights, I think the thinner cork would work, but if needed I may use the thicker ... just playing it by ear as I go. Will be judging by how well the housings fit to the body ... same with the headlight buckets. Felpro 3060 Amazon sells for ~$10, If you find which one you like best, you can order just that kind from Amazon and get a bigger sheet at a better deal. I bought mine from local parts plus auto parts store. I have used all the different sheets for several projects not just my truck, but will need to buy more when I do start final assembly of the truck. One headlight bucket will just about use up one sheet, but the drop off from the center may do one or 2 marker lights. So is cost effective to just buy a roll of one size. But it is convenient to have the different material on the shelf when you need to make a gasket, and use it as a tool to decide what you will order.

My only point is, if the shafts need new bushings .... I assume there is 3 guys Left in the United states can rebuild a carburetor. Lets find the right one! This is wrong in so many .... If the carburetor is decent and works well, They would get a decent working carb in return. If you expect them to start drilling holes and adding bushings ... you will need to start a whole new thread. I bought my B&B carb rebuilt from Rock auto ... works good for me, just sucks for you as you think it is some rare piece.

Pretty sure, if you need to drill out the side of the carb and fabricate new bushings Absolutely this can be done ... by your machinist and not your carb re builder. What you are asking is a carb rebuilder to be a machinist and make magic for you. Not typically how life works ... Can it be fixed yes, who will do it .... probably the machinist ... yes they feed a family and like to eat also. People like to eat and feed their family, I doubt you get many calls back from your questions. Take your carburetor kit to your machinist, and ask them to do what is required ... not ask your carb rebuilder to do machine shop work. Figure it out, ... Any fool can put the parts in.

whole different story then someone asking $1500 for a set of wheels of rusty wheels with unknown outcome. They can have them sand blased and primered for a cheap price ... maybe $200? Then see if they are re-usable? They may at that time maybe ask more for them... as is just a pig in a poke and bad photos and out of country for bad delivery. I bet they have rust holes going all the way through them, they give poor pictures and hope some fool buys them.

My biggest problem with replacing them, I was ordering new wheel cylinders from DCM ... There was just to many options and sizes and reasons .... My dust seals were not bad so just kept them and re-used them, figure as a future daily driver will be re-visiting many areas anyways. Today looking at the rear brakes .... really pleased with what I see, looks like the rear axle seal was leaking, shoes look good, drums have minor wear on them ... will keep and reuse what I can, same time I expect it to be safe.

I was not going to say it .... I used wood blocks to straighten the metal after I pulled them ... clean and oil and put em back in use

This thread gave me the energy needed to pull out the new puller I bought off ebay several weeks ago. I just wanted to add a few observations now that I have pulled 1 drum and am a expert Happy with the tool, it took a couple min, I used a 3# sledge, I did not swing it hard, just let the tool do the work. Happy with the tool, bought it off ebay for $85-$90 plus shipping, Think it cost me $110 total. Is a Napa tool with a Napa part # ... no idea why was sold on ebay. Almost awkward like the tool is to big for the job, impossible I know, But if I had a 6 lug or 8 lug, or Ford 5 on 5.5 it would fit better. I had to leave my lug studs 1/4" loose to get alignment. I would prefer to snug them down. The most important thing I have to offer, stand to the side even when the axle nut is still on, when mine popped loose, the T handle flew off and hit the house. Would have been my ribs if standing/sitting in front of it. Because of the tight space I was sitting on the side of the tire and was spared. It does come loose with a bang!

Just be sure you are not following pictures in a book, where #1 plug wire is on the distributor cap. Put #1 where the rotor is pointing. If for some reason the oil pump was removed or replaced and the mechanic did not properly set the timing, follow procedure installing the oil pump, Your TDC on #1 will be in a different location then factory. I fought this issue myself, I pulled all my wires and threw them in the trash, pulled the distributor and did my magic with it ... put it all back together by the book with #1 at 7:00 o'clock and nothing. .... Finally I put it on TDC compression stroke on #6 because am lazy, then installed #6 wire where the rotor was pointing and installed rest of the wires from there ... I was now one step counter clockwise from what is factory, #1 is at 6 O'clock instead of 7 ... and it fired right up.

Sometimes all we can do is show them love .... Not everyone will walk through the door.