Los_Control

I understand that 100% While I have enjoyed Dons post here, I never knew him ... I was thinking if he had a surviving spouse or family member. You also need the password. I am sure pb would take your money, but the account would still be in Dons name and you would not have access to it, unless there was a family member to help. Thus my question that was not clear ... is there a possibility someone to help. I know you have purchased a car from Don ... maybe Don gave you access to the account for the photos. I also loathe the idea of paying them ... what is it ... $15 ... $20 vrs individual click and download? May be money well spent. If there is a family member you can talk to, explain what you want to do, they may offer to pay just so they can get a copy of photo's also?

I admit I cringed a little when you mentioned already 1k photos ... daunting task to even consider manually. Personally I would be skimming through them and cherry picking the ones I thought were significant. Is it even a possibility to pay the yearly fee and gain access/log into the account just to get the photos? I dunno just a thought.

Yeah been years since I have used photobucket. I am no help for specific photobucket issues. What happens if you right click on the image and copy it to your hard drive?

I have to admit the price seems fair at Eaton, and they have a long run of good quality reputation. I once had a old 1 ton work van with worn springs. I checked at a local spring shop in Spokane. Was a big shop and very busy, main work was semi trucks. This was 10 years ago. They said make a appointment, drop the van off, they would have it done in a few hours. $250 .... I thought the price was ridiculously low. I suppose they have the equipment & it takes them just a few min for them to pull the springs. Then the re-arching is mostly just labor ... so maybe price was reasonable. I never did get the work done. I always wondered just how long they would last after being arched. For a old 1 ton the thing just floated down the highway with worn springs and rode really nice. I ended up leaving them alone.

I really can not express how much I love the /6 and my history with them ... great engines. I do think is a poor choice for these cars. A shorter V8 would fit better ... the location of the distributor will be a pain for maintenance. Same time it has been done, have seen a truck for sale on craigslist with a /6. Just guessing you will find 10 v8 conversions for every 1, /6 conversion. Just not common. But if you have one sitting in the garage taking up space, it may be a decent choice.

Thats a good tip and will remember it, thank you. I think today will be 45 hours dry time and results will be much better. Yes sir I agree 100%. It should not need it. That also falls true for enamel paint. Does not "NEED" it, but it does improve it. @Plymouthy Adams schooled me on the top coat paint several months ago, about proper products to use. And to add hardener even though the directions do not suggest it. At napa buying the hardener, the kid behind the counter stated, I have used this paint many times, I never added hardener! .... Hrmm, probably not a bad idea though. I bet today he is adding hardener to it for his own use. Back when PA was helping me with the color coat, I was planning to not use primer and paint direct to metal like the factory did. And I never asked questions about primer. Now I realize how crappy my body working skills are, I need primer to assist me I need the primer soft and workable, and hardener would ... make it hard.

Never give up. I had a co-worker who was in their 50's. He got some sort of cancer and he gave up. He figured he was dead. He mortgaged his paid for family home, maxed out his credit cards, took 5 close friends on a vacation to Mexico ... then he lived. He could no longer work, filed for bankruptcy, sold the house to satisfy bankruptcy laws. He ended up living in a older travel trailer in a old rv park filled with crack heads ... Karma has a way to come back and bite you.

People just need to step up and prepare for this adventure .... nobody gets out of this world alive. I really felt sad for myself when my favorite uncle passed. He had basically a 2 acre junkyard of old cars and junk. It was a huge and daunting task for his children to dispose of. Uncle was in upper 80's. Oldest son was 64 and partially paralyzed from a stroke, next daughter is in worse health, youngest daughter in her 50's and a busy manager at her job. Lives 6 hours away. She has no time to deal with this. You get down to the nephew's, grandsons, nieces etc ... They are into cars .... They are building modern jeep rock crawlers, they have no interest in the old stuff. And they have a job and a life and no time to mess with this stuff. I was 1200 miles away and could not get involved. The 2 acres of property was actually in a prime location and would sell quickly once the junk was cleared off. 1957 chevy 2.5 ton truck with a hotrod 283 cam etc, 5spd transmission, 2 spd rear end starts runs stops .... $100 to scrap yard. 1952 chevy 2 ton rebuilt 235 motor with almost zero miles, Grampa built a extra heavy duty dual piston dump bed ... $100 to the scrap yard. 1957 packard clipper, 2 door hard top black & white, nice body paint interior, start and move, but had a rod knocking and needed rebuilt ... scrap yard. The engine room where all the goodies were kept, rebuilt 283 with less then 1k miles, rebuilt 312 y block with overdrive trans zero miles. There was a rebuilt 218 Plymouth flathead engine, Just one shed of many and was packed full of good stuff. They gave the contents away to someone with a trailer to haul off for scrap. I think they got about $200k for the house and property, everything else nobody could care less. Just get rid of everything quickly, so they could get this monster of a project off their backs. I think it is a really wise idea to deal with it yourself while you can.

Just been too hot to do much work last 6 weeks, then family visiting and of course the motorhome fiasco ... Right now the weather is perfect, the stars are all lined up, I just want to jump all over it. Bring the project to the next level. I will just slow it down a bit. Other reason am pushing the roof. I have to start it up and drive it out from under the carport. Then have a plank across the bed to stand on and can easily work on it. Then drive it back into the carport at night. Getting heavy dew in the mornings, I constantly have to go back over the bare metal to clean the fresh rust. Once the roof is done, the worst part ... I can easily work on everything else without moving it. And it stays dry under the carport. While I am rushing it, I really do not need to, I just want to.

It is just the $30 a gallon oil based primer from Ace hardware, top coat will be same $30 a gallon from tractor supply. $60 worth of paint, on track for $200 in sand paper

Yes sir that makes sense, I need to work it. Thank you for advise. Possibly by tomorrow when has longer to dry, maybe it will not clog the sandpaper so quick. Oil base paints do take time to dry. Been working on it for 2 years already .... no reason to get in a hurry now

Sadly we only have one car event per year in this town .... no swap meets either I do miss going to swap meets, we do have a small town a hour away that has a annual swap meet, more household items, T-shirts etc then car parts. We never bothered to back to the next years event. Will have to start driving 2-3 hours one way to get to any decent swap meet ... sigh if I was only not so lazy ?

I am curious if any do this. I am using a cheap product from Ace hardware "Ace rust stop primer"... compare to rustoleum. I am sanding and it is clogging the paper pretty fast. Kind of annoying. Same time I painted it about 20 hours ago, I may just need to give it a longer drying time. Or it is just cheap primer and always going to clog paper. I dunno. Also because the body had heavy heavy surface rust, it is not perfectly smooth now .... the top of roof was the worst. Just the top I used a foam roller for a heavy first coat. Then today I sanded most of it off, while the primer filled the low spots. This also could be why it is clogging the paper ... but is sanding nice. Todays project is to get it all masked off, hopefully tomorrow or next day, will spray the cab in primer. I still have holes to weld up, a few dents to fix ... I just have a lot of bare metal that needs to be covered before winter. I have never heard of anyone mixing hardener into primer. I fully expect spraying 3 coats minimal on primer to bury all the sins, to make it a 20 footer. Will be a lot of sanding. I have a universal hardener I bought from napa for the top color coat. I wonder if it would be any benefit to add to the primer? Or would it cause a problem?

True, but would never admit it ... nick's head get so big it wont fit in the channel ?

I would grab the beer first, then do next step

I do not know the age and condition of your brake lines master cylinder etc ... My first thought was master cylinder ... after reading this ... I wonder about condition and age of rubber brake lines. As they age and deteriorate they can fail from the inside out. Meaning they look fine on outside, but falling apart inside. If you are turning the wheel, and the line is collapsing inside and blocking the fluid return, that wheel brakes will not release. Is it possible you have brake lines on front that are to long, that when you turn the wheel they kink and possibly cause early failure?

I have recently purchased a welder, and still learning to weld. I did do some research before buying one. My goal was a mig welder to do sheet metal, light welding for frames and brackets etc. 1. What I thought I learned from research. It had to be a 220v machine, not 110v 2. You need capabilities to run gas and mig wire. A very short list ... because I am not a welder and have professional opinions. I also do not like/trust harbor freight tools. I found when I moved to West Texas, Forney just seems to be the only welder in the state .... I would have to drive 2 hours 1 direction to find a lincoln or miller. But they are available. I have to say the big blue gas powered miller seems to be standard on any shop truck running around the county. Local Ace hardware that sells the Forney, they had a sale on them to clear out last year models. I bought the Forney 190mp for $699 ... my first welder. The sales rep contacted me a month later and had some items I was missing since it was a floor model and came with no box. I did not expect this. I was pleased. Later, I was having problems and called customer service. I was loading the wire wrong. Tech support could not believe I was that stupid. They sent me a ups ticket to return the machine and they were going to send me a new one. I figured out my mistake, Forney kept contacting me to see the progress of returning it .... I finally had to eat crow and tell the tech support guy it was fine and my mistake. He laughed. To get tech support like that, imho I am going to be a Forney user for a long time. And they have been family owned business for almost 100 years. Just saying, I have a mp welder with customer support and track record of quality for under $1k and a little over kill for what I wanted. https://www.forneyind.com/products/welding

Another worthless opinion from a carpenter and not a mechanic I wonder when was the last time you opened up and rebuilt your master cylinder? I ask this, because I did take mine apart to inspect, and I cleaned and honed it, put in new rubber cup ... I was never satisfied with it. The return on it was way to slow & sticky. I just put it back together, bench bled it and set it aside. Since then I have purchased from DCM a real rebuild kit for it. Point is, you have a heavy spring on your brake pedal, that spring will return pedal to normal position. That does not mean the internals of your master cylinder are returning at same pace. If the internal spring and rubber cup is going 1/2 way, getting sticky and hung up, is just like you still have your foot on the brake pedal, even though the pedal has returned to position.

I never gone through this myself. I had a good friend who went through chemo, after a year battle it appeared he had won and was cancer free, 6 months later came back and started 2nd round of chemo ... it was just to much for him and he gave up. I did go through a round of Dr's myself for 3+ years, the drugs they had me on really messed up my memory. 1.5 years after I stopped taking their drugs, I could not remember my own phone # or address. I went to a psychiatrist thinking I might have early stages of dementia. Just took time and the mind does recover. My project is just as much therapy for me as it is anything else. Physical & mental exercise. You sound sharp, you have a good plan in place. And thinking ahead. I think you will be fine.

w00t w00t ... good to see ya brother, you had us worried!

Meet Dagmar

My thoughts, the football shaped hole is a clamp . It has screws you tighten to hold things tight. I would not think it is made for wiring or vacuum hose. My truck I have the temp sending unit, oil pressure line, choke cable, throttle cable. (I am not sure the oil line belongs there) Up above it is a small hole for the vacuum line, off to the right is a larger hole for the wiring to come through. This is a truck and not your car so is different. The hole for the wiring comes out just to the side of the voltage regulator. Is directly above the starter/main power wire Is a short jog over to the foot dimmer switch ... then wanders up the inner fender to the lights. I bet if you mount your voltage regulator, close by will be a larger hole for the main harness. And it will make sense how to map the wires. The factory is not going to run 10 miles of wire, if they can do the job with 5 miles.

As a old carpenter that never rebuilt a automobile engine before. I have rebuilt older small engines for equipment. I would be very careful on proper break in oil for our engines. After that, I figure anything on the shelf is way better then anything available in the 40's-50's. I agree with @sniper here, I use castrol gtx ultraclean from walmart in everything. 5/30 in wife's car, 10/30 in my cheby, using 10/40 in my old dodge. I do get particular on the oil filters, I wont buy the crap walmart sells. Local parts store sells wix and Is same filter Napa sells with different name and price. I have watched videos of dissecting different oil filters. Fram is the worse, all paper and cardboard inside. Accident waiting to happen. WIX is all steel and wire and welded & is good construction. Without even reading through the previous post, I bet at least one is going to say to use a non detergent oil. Modern detergent oil will clean the old crap out and clog the pickup screen. Thats exactly what I want. I will have to keep a eye out on the oil pressure gauge, drop the pan when needed, maybe even twice ... I want the motor cleeen! I will go the extra mile to get it clean. Just all my opinion, worth what you paid.

I cheat and use a self tapping sheet metal screw with a cordless drill/screw gun, then use my pry bar to pull them. I also had my water pump off at the time, was able to clear the water distribution tube and flush all the gunk out of the block .... I had major cooling issues and probably why my truck was parked in the first place. All good now. Don't be a Los Before installing the new plugs, clean up the seating surface with a wire wheel and maybe some sealer of your choice. You look at your old plugs and they are concave, so I installed the new the same way. Real way is with the bubble out, then when you install them, get them started, then smack em with a hammer, and the bubble becomes concave and they expand for a tight seal. Mine leaked a little while then seem to have stopped, I may have to replace them so can sleep at night