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captden29

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About captden29

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Not Telling
  • Location
    wilmington nc
  • My Project Cars
    1954 Chrysler convertible

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    I'm married, 68 years old, and have found the car of my dreams.
  • Occupation
    Busdriver.

Converted

  • Location
    Mastic Beach, New York (on Long Island)
  • Interests
    My hobbies include my 1954 Chrysler Windsor Deluxe Convertible and fishing.

Recent Profile Visitors

926 profile views
  1. I am not able to do pictures, but if you google heater control valve you will get pictures and the capillary tube is plainly visible. not sure why the valve needs the tube to sense temp and control the valve opening as the temp. control on the dash already does that. mystery. capt den
  2. thanks rich. there really is a capillary tube on the heat control valve. on my car the valve is located inside the engine compartment inside a cover on the firewall. the heater core is inside there.the heat control valve is also in there and the hoses from the engine all connect in here and of course you get hot air for the heater and defroster. the heat control valve has a capillary tube that connects to it and then goes through a hole in the fire wall to inside the car. it just goes in and gets tucked out of sight but does not connect to anything else. it must sense temperature, but then what effect does it have on the valve? just looking it over I am stumped as to its purpose and I have found no literature that mentions it. I may have to call old air products as I believe they rebuilt it years ago. I also had the heater core done a few years ago, and I am sending out the blower motor for a rebuild. I just retired so I have the time to do this now. my grandparents had a 39 desoto. I remember standing up in the back seat on the way to the beach. thanks for the help, capt den
  3. I am putting my heat system back together. the heat control valve has a capillary tube the goes thru the firewall into the cab area. I think it just goes anywhere out of sight. my question is what is it for? this is a 54 Chrysler Windsor. capt den
  4. if I do a fuel pump pressure test just as the engine is shut down should I expect the pressure to drop to zero? I am told there is supposed to be a bleed hole in the fuel pump that allows this to happen. this is on a 54 Windsor 265 flathead. original pump is rebuilt. thanks skyler
  5. dorman plug that loren mentioned is part number 568-010, 1 5/8 dia. I have them on my engine for about 5 years, no leaks. capt den
  6. keith, you like rearview mirrors. did this car come with stock rearviews on the door near the vent window? my 54 Windsor convertible has the worst rearview mirrors of any car I have owned. i put one on the drip rail like yours on the passenger side, but not much help for this car. it is a different door design. I even tried a truck mirror that extends, but not good either. anyway, the car is beautiful. I had a 53 imperial about 12 years ago. power everything. rode and drove better than my 54, but it only had 32,000 miles on the odometer. I have not used the brake tool I bought from you, but will let you know when I do. I am going to re-install the power brake booster and will set up all my brake adjustments then. I may be annoying you for some tips. I tried 235x15 tires, but they rubbed on the front suspension. took a while to figure that out. the 235's were ok when I had wire wheels, but not with the stock steel rims that I went back to. now it is all stock with blackwalls. more like when original. be safe, dennis
  7. I just sent my water pump to flying Dutchman. he replaces the seal with something newer but it retains the grease nipple to grease the bearing. he also machines it so everything is properly aligned to the shaft, no wobble or poor clearances. my pump is the original from my 1954 Windsor flathead. I am looking forward to improved water flow at idle and long life of the pump. not sure of the price yet as he is currently doing the job. I also want to replace the water dist. tube, but not sure of a good source. the one in there I pulled out and it appears to be the wrong one. it came from bernbaum about 10 years ago. mopar pro looks like he has a good one. I will call him tomorrow. capt den
  8. this happened to me. rebuilt a buick straight eight. a friend wanted to help, so I let him put the timing chain on. the block was sitting on a cart upside down to its position in the car. the timing chain went on perfect, but 180 out because of the position of the block. when I tried to start the engine it did exactly what yours is doing. corrected the timing chain and all was well.
  9. you could try a marine store, as they carry dust caps for boat trailers. maybe a trailer store also. harbor freight might have them.tractor supply,napa, advance, etc. I have seen soft rubber ones that go over the hub instead of inside. at least good temporarily. west marine used to have those. hope this helps. skyler
  10. when I had one I used hydraulic jack oil. it is non foaming and worked well for me. my unit had a slight leak so I always had to add a little and the unit always worked as it should otherwise. not too expensive and available all over.
  11. I once tried the 6 blade fan and it actually made the problem worse. I think it is a universal fan, but I did have to have the center hole enlarged at a machine shop. don't forget the water distribution tube. good luck. keep us posted. dennis
  12. rally, my first thought was the gasket. usually never that simple, but one can hope. does vinegar in the engine for 2 weeks really clean a lot out? my engine has heat issues and I have tried so much and it is improved, but 95 degree days are out of the question. I can drive it but not in city traffic, and anywhere else when I shut it down, it has to be restarted within about ten minutes or left to cool for about an hour. I moved the fuel line and it has a heat shield. just too much heat in the block. recored rad and I flushed all I could through the core plugs. I do want to drop and clean the pan, just nervous about that job. I will put a new water pump on when I take it all apart just because I am doing the labor. I will pull the rad to make it easier.if I flush through the water tube and do the vinegar thing I will need to pull the core plugs and flush there. I use the dorman plugs that go on with a socket. wish me luck. I still would love to know if any pump is better than another as far as volume pumped is concerned. so many other parts are rated, such as generators, coils, etc., but not water pumps. I still have the original with the grease fitting, but I know the newer pumps are better than that one.besides, who can rebuild it properly? thanks in advance for the replies. this is a 265 in a 54 Windsor.all original with 78,000 miles. capt den
  13. hard to find a shop you can trust. also to finish it when they say they will. all I want to do with mine right now is drop the oil pan to clean it, but I am afraid it is more difficult than it seems. I hope your rebuild will go smooth. capt den
  14. which flatheads have a smaller pulley? seems the faster speed may hurt the bearings. does sound like it will produce more flow at idle, even at speed. I just wonder if there is any one pump better than another. any made in the USA? capt den
  15. I could try NAPA. they are local, so easy return for the core. the newer pump I have on now does have a little more water flow than my original pump. the original has no flow at idle. are any pumps rated for flow? or do you just get what you get. I have not pulled the one on there yet, but I will check it for a 6 blade impeller. thanks capt den
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