Los_Control

My last 57 was a 4 door wagon, Think I paid $75 for it, ran and drove and sold it for $200. Would not be bad to have another old car. I bought a used 67 polara, from a co worker, his father died and was left with estate to get rid of ... I paid $200 and had to rebuild the carburetor and replace the master cylinder to make it a solid daily driver ... Then I gave it to my father inlaw ... My mother was blind and worked at the Goodwill, met this retarded man and together they made a great team, They went on and bought a house together. He loved the car, 2 door 318 wedge bucket seats, center console with floor shift, white leather interior ... He did not keep it long because of gas mileage. Liked his old pinto wagon better. Last time I seen the car, had a refrigerator strapped to the roof and trunk was full of aluminum cans, news paper and scrap metal from his recycle route. Sigh

I guess I was just hoping you did not put me on ignore for this Who knows, someone will go home with a free car ... delivery was never talked about, I heard you show up and drive it away. Pretty sure I have no plans to drive from Texas to Canada and make a road trip with a unknown chevy back to Texas. While some will think it a adventure.

Sometimes you just need to bite the bullet and buy the right tool. These old drums are on tapered axels ... Even with the right tool, sometimes you may need to apply pressure to them then walk away and come back and use a hammer and apply more pressure. ... There is old stories where a guy would loosen the drum/axle nut, then drive in circles for a hour in a vacant field until they heard a loud pop where the drum popped loose. They were never easy to remove, even when new. While the driver was going in circles to get the drum loose, his buddy would be leaned over the fender adjusting the valves. Myth or fact, I dunno. You need a proper drum puller for the older cars, I bought mine off of ebay a month or so ago, not used it yet but is right tool for the job.

I know how badly PA wants a chevy, Thought I would share this free 1957 chevy give away. The only requirement to win the car is you subscribe to their channel. When they get to 57k subscribers, They will randomly pick one name from the subscribers and they win the car. Will it be fair, honest and legit? who knows. I been watching this guy for a little bit, watching him build a old model T that was used as yard art for years. He seems to be a decent fabricator ... what impresses me about him, is his energy. He works a full time day job, then comes home and works in his garage till 11:00 pm makes videos and gets up in the morning and does it again. He , unlike me, gets work done ? So a few weeks ago, he goes out to some field and buys this chevy, been sitting for years ... they were going to fire it up and drive it home ... for good video, they got it running and then it lost oil pressure, they trailered it home. Decent little old school hot rod, 327, double hump heads, 4 barrel, cam, headers, Turbo 400 trans. He had to drop the oil pan, found the old after market oil pump had failed, and replaced it with a new high volume pump ... runs good now. Today he has 34k subscribers, gained 10k in last week, he quickly is heading to 57k, Rebuilding the rusted floors and rockers, new carpet and seats upholstered, interior repaired. rebuild the front end and add disk brakes. already has new tires ... will be a perfect beater with a heater for @Plymouthy Adams So please subscribe to the channel and lets help our old friend PA out.

Pretty sure the Romans burnt any book that would help us.

I wish you the best of luck ... just sad that some watch TV and think $2k is a acceptable starting point. Sure wish they would stick their money where their mouth is, and rebuild and sell themselves. They have no plan for that.

Am I wrong? car in that condition, $500 ... Just a joke they have a car with blown out glass that is easy to replace, It allows weather in the car that creates a lot of damage. If they think that rust bucket is worth $2k ... I hope they send it to the crusher and get $2 for the metal. The only value that car has is for the next person is willing to put in on it. If it was a chevy or a ford, every part is cheap and delivered to your door. ... A mopar that thing will need more money invested, then what finished car will sell for. Takes a special kinda fool to build a mopar.

To me it sounds like a poor ground wire or whatever it is that grounds the tail lights. To me this is a perfect learning moment .... yeah the lights work but not as good as I think they should. Good time to go through your ride and clean and replace, repair all grounds on your car. Really not that many, You can add a couple extra ... You will find your lights work better, your starter works better, engine may run better ... Positive ground system, really is important to keep all grounds clean. I think positive ground system is good, and possibly should be standard today ... possibly just some big corps that forced the system to negative ground. Just saying, nothing wrong with your positive ground system, it probably needs a little love.

Good point ... the shovel strips, is either tight against the metal, or loose because of missing wood. I would assume if the strips are flip flopping around, originally they had wood under them to hold them tight. If the strips are tight against the metal, Is possible but unlikely, someone went in after the wood rotted away and tightened the strips.

I wonder if it breaks down to a matter of opinion? My personal opinion worth exactly what you paid. The tailgate is up and closed most of the time, and it matches the painted sides. You put wood on it, .... wood is for the floor, tailgate is a door and not technically a floor. At the grocery store when you lower it, in my mind it is still not a floor but more a gate or door. I feel it should be painted, it will match the rest of the car 99% of the time, when loading groceries 1% of the time it may look like a floor. But it really is not a floor. I imagine the factory had opinions and released it a certain way, to me it just looks wrong with wood on the tail gate.

I hope this little conversation is useful to the original poster, not trying to jump his thread. Sometimes acid is the only way to go. I have tried 2 different kinds. One is mild and works for what is meant for, The other is at the other end of the spectrum, works good but is a bully. A good example, roof of my cab. My cab is not coming off the frame, layers and layers of surface rust and deep pitting. I did try Muriatic acid on it one time. Did not cut it, the acid ran off and leaked into the cab, rusted my ZZ top key chain I bought in the 1980's ... that pissed me off. Minor issues inside because had it mostly stripped out, but the vapors from the roof leaked down and rusted the bare steel on my new rebuilt carburetor and other items in engine bay. linkages and cowl vent ... just a experiment and survived, will never put muriatic on my truck. But fenders, bed sides, all items that come off and go to the back yard is fair game. So now my daily chore is to look up online and see if can order some straight phosphoric acid and give it a shot.

Thanks for that tip ... I claim to be new to this and learning, In back of my mind am thinking phosphoric acid ... ospho ... same product but different brand name. I see I am wrong, and now interested in trying straight phosphoric acid. How user friendly or potency do you feel straight phosphoric is, compared to ospho vrs muriatic?

From what I understand, por15 needs decent surface prep or it will lift and leave a bigger mess. I am leaning towards a rust encapsulator. There are many brands on the market, I am guessing Eastwood's product is probably most costly but best product ... love to hear what others have to say? I agree here, sometimes bad heavy surface rust is difficult to remove. I have been fighting this on my project ... see avatar. Mechanical means with sanding, grinding, wire wheel ... just polishes the rust. Sandblasting would work, not a option for me. So I have been playing with Ospho, a phosphoric acid I buy from Ace hardware. Pretty mild but does ok for it's goal .... kill rust before you paint. wire brush off the heavy stuff, spray it. It suppose to kill the rust and turns it to a black primer, that you can paint over. Perfect for hard to get to frame areas and areas you will not see. ... probably not good for exterior body panels ... but it has its place. Another product from any hardware store is muriatic acid. Less then $20 a gallon, is some strong stuff .... It can be your best friend or your worse enemy. First photo is a fender I cleaned with muriatic acid before, but did not properly clean and dilute the acid after cleaning it, the rust came right back ... second photo is what it looks like after I cleaned and did it right the second time. ... do not use it indoors, do not breathe it, wear safety goggles, A small test job in the shop in a bowl on the work bench, vapors will rust all the tools around it ... store the leftover gallon jug in the shop with the cap on, and every tool within 10' of the bottle will still rust. I would have same concerns about using a stronger version of phosphoric acid.

Stupid idea here ... would it be feasible to replace the light switch fuse with a slug, then just add a breaker inline going to the switch? Maybe I am missing something. here and not understanding the subject.

I have no words to describe my feelings ... any have a few words?

Glad you got it fixed ... I bought a rebuilt from rockauto, I thought the price was reasonable, and I kept my core and rebuilt it, put it away for future use. I think Mikes Carburetors made a great video to show how to assemble these simple carbs, I would send my carb to him for rebuild if I needed.

Word for word, sounds like something I told my wife 30 years ago ... she still never lets me forget that today! Sounds like you have it under control.

Los just shakes his head and wanders away .... thinking what a pretty face Bob Riding has ... some day I may get a good deal ... not all that ugly, just not pretty.

Some day I will get to my rear brakes ....? I am under the impression to keep as much original as I can, meaning I would rebuild the existing wheel cylinders simply because they are made of better quality then what is available today. Just saying, I might try to save and rebuild the other 3 ... at least keep them and possibly rebuild them and set on a shelf in case you have issues with the new ones. Are you sure it is the cylinder threads that stripped out, and not the brake line threads? Could be either, seems to me the steel line would be weaker then the wheel cylinder. When I rebuilt my front brakes, I did replace the front wheel cylinders using DCM for supplier. Mine had a step bore and I did not feel comfortable honing and cleaning them. Never worked on them before ... But master cylinder or rear wheel cylinders with a straight bore, if not pitted beyond repair, are pretty simple.

You did pm me and concerned if you may have offended me ... Obvious I am not offended from chevy banter ... maybe someone else took my comments wrong and wanted to explain my position. Only offended because they used the word Colorado. and they are not worthy of it.

I just wanted to apologize to @Plymouthy Adams. Yes I do drive a chevy truck, 1991 350/5spd manual trans ... short bed step side. Very fun truck to drive. Not against Chevy ... Just not a huge fan of any of the new trucks. Ford, Chevy, Dodge ... they all have built in planned issues for future parts replacement and OEM profit. I meant that when I lived in Albuquerque, was a fun trip to cruise up to Colorado. Northern NM is gorgeous, and southern Colorado in the Rocky Mountains just beautiful. Just funny when I end up retired I end up in Colorado City Texas. City is named because we have a crick that runs through town, and it's origin is Colorado River. It ends up in a 500 acre lake just out side of town. When I jokingly told PA to take that back ... What I meant was, I have more respect for the Word Colorado, then some piece of crap chevy truck named Colorado. I am actually offended Chevy named a piece of crap truck with a isuzu motor Colorado ... Los pulls up his big boy pants and walks away. carry on

For a off brand oil filter, they are the best I have ever seen, ... watching a video on dissecting oil filters, they were built the best ... I throw Fram straight in the trash after seeing the filters cut in half for comparison. Point is, wix builds a damn good quality oil filter, bet their air filters are just as good .... K&N may be good, or could just be a brand name ... I dunno.

Some of ya all work faster then others Los does a face palm

Yep, thanks, I just got the tank sitting backwards in the junk pile, confused the front with the rear. ? Somehow I misinterpreted your words thinking there were 4 springs while I only had 2 .@ggdad1951 Did you get all the info you needed for the springs? be a good project for me today to pull them from the "rear" bracket and see if they are reusable. Holler if you need anything from them.

I bet it was made for a chevy .... love you brother.