Los_Control

Thanks for that tip ... I claim to be new to this and learning, In back of my mind am thinking phosphoric acid ... ospho ... same product but different brand name. I see I am wrong, and now interested in trying straight phosphoric acid. How user friendly or potency do you feel straight phosphoric is, compared to ospho vrs muriatic?

From what I understand, por15 needs decent surface prep or it will lift and leave a bigger mess. I am leaning towards a rust encapsulator. There are many brands on the market, I am guessing Eastwood's product is probably most costly but best product ... love to hear what others have to say? I agree here, sometimes bad heavy surface rust is difficult to remove. I have been fighting this on my project ... see avatar. Mechanical means with sanding, grinding, wire wheel ... just polishes the rust. Sandblasting would work, not a option for me. So I have been playing with Ospho, a phosphoric acid I buy from Ace hardware. Pretty mild but does ok for it's goal .... kill rust before you paint. wire brush off the heavy stuff, spray it. It suppose to kill the rust and turns it to a black primer, that you can paint over. Perfect for hard to get to frame areas and areas you will not see. ... probably not good for exterior body panels ... but it has its place. Another product from any hardware store is muriatic acid. Less then $20 a gallon, is some strong stuff .... It can be your best friend or your worse enemy. First photo is a fender I cleaned with muriatic acid before, but did not properly clean and dilute the acid after cleaning it, the rust came right back ... second photo is what it looks like after I cleaned and did it right the second time. ... do not use it indoors, do not breathe it, wear safety goggles, A small test job in the shop in a bowl on the work bench, vapors will rust all the tools around it ... store the leftover gallon jug in the shop with the cap on, and every tool within 10' of the bottle will still rust. I would have same concerns about using a stronger version of phosphoric acid.

Stupid idea here ... would it be feasible to replace the light switch fuse with a slug, then just add a breaker inline going to the switch? Maybe I am missing something. here and not understanding the subject.

I have no words to describe my feelings ... any have a few words?

Glad you got it fixed ... I bought a rebuilt from rockauto, I thought the price was reasonable, and I kept my core and rebuilt it, put it away for future use. I think Mikes Carburetors made a great video to show how to assemble these simple carbs, I would send my carb to him for rebuild if I needed.

Word for word, sounds like something I told my wife 30 years ago ... she still never lets me forget that today! Sounds like you have it under control.

Los just shakes his head and wanders away .... thinking what a pretty face Bob Riding has ... some day I may get a good deal ... not all that ugly, just not pretty.

Some day I will get to my rear brakes ....? I am under the impression to keep as much original as I can, meaning I would rebuild the existing wheel cylinders simply because they are made of better quality then what is available today. Just saying, I might try to save and rebuild the other 3 ... at least keep them and possibly rebuild them and set on a shelf in case you have issues with the new ones. Are you sure it is the cylinder threads that stripped out, and not the brake line threads? Could be either, seems to me the steel line would be weaker then the wheel cylinder. When I rebuilt my front brakes, I did replace the front wheel cylinders using DCM for supplier. Mine had a step bore and I did not feel comfortable honing and cleaning them. Never worked on them before ... But master cylinder or rear wheel cylinders with a straight bore, if not pitted beyond repair, are pretty simple.

You did pm me and concerned if you may have offended me ... Obvious I am not offended from chevy banter ... maybe someone else took my comments wrong and wanted to explain my position. Only offended because they used the word Colorado. and they are not worthy of it.

I just wanted to apologize to @Plymouthy Adams. Yes I do drive a chevy truck, 1991 350/5spd manual trans ... short bed step side. Very fun truck to drive. Not against Chevy ... Just not a huge fan of any of the new trucks. Ford, Chevy, Dodge ... they all have built in planned issues for future parts replacement and OEM profit. I meant that when I lived in Albuquerque, was a fun trip to cruise up to Colorado. Northern NM is gorgeous, and southern Colorado in the Rocky Mountains just beautiful. Just funny when I end up retired I end up in Colorado City Texas. City is named because we have a crick that runs through town, and it's origin is Colorado River. It ends up in a 500 acre lake just out side of town. When I jokingly told PA to take that back ... What I meant was, I have more respect for the Word Colorado, then some piece of crap chevy truck named Colorado. I am actually offended Chevy named a piece of crap truck with a isuzu motor Colorado ... Los pulls up his big boy pants and walks away. carry on

For a off brand oil filter, they are the best I have ever seen, ... watching a video on dissecting oil filters, they were built the best ... I throw Fram straight in the trash after seeing the filters cut in half for comparison. Point is, wix builds a damn good quality oil filter, bet their air filters are just as good .... K&N may be good, or could just be a brand name ... I dunno.

Some of ya all work faster then others Los does a face palm

Yep, thanks, I just got the tank sitting backwards in the junk pile, confused the front with the rear. ? Somehow I misinterpreted your words thinking there were 4 springs while I only had 2 .@ggdad1951 Did you get all the info you needed for the springs? be a good project for me today to pull them from the "rear" bracket and see if they are reusable. Holler if you need anything from them.

I bet it was made for a chevy .... love you brother.

OH my Lord, cant believe you went there .... Colorado is many things, no way it was a truck. I live in Colorado City Texas, We have the Colorado river and the Colorado lake .... we sure do not want to hear about a chevy Colorado ... you take that back

Bet they originally fit chev's ... I do not blame you for giving numbers

I am curious to hear if you have had any estimates done to build the new tank, or just looking for suitable replacement. I remember at the time I thought my buddy got ripped off for $700. As years gone by, ... He was a electrical engineer at Government labs Sandia labs in NM. He was disabled because he smoked 6 packs of cigarettes a day. severe COPD and needed the large bottles of oxygen on a cart to get around .... Was his nature to give the machine shop the exact specifications of the new tank and how he wanted it built ... Possible he may have lied to me, the $700 was just the tank, another separate bill for the tow and rest of work. He had a good retirement and savings built up, he did what he wanted. So just asking, has @Plymouthy Adams checked on any prices to have a tank built?

Thats where my opinion comes from ... I just do not have the tools to fight Alien life forms at home in my garage. At a bare minimum, needs to go to a radiator shop and be hot tanked. Depending on the 17 year old kid doing the work, or the 5 month old liquid in the tank that needed replaced 4 months ago ... just a lot of variables as to if you are really going to start out with a clean surface to start with. Maybe with the new military group "space force" If enough of us get together, maybe they could open a side business of cleaning out the alien life forms ?

Ok you have my curiosity peaked .... do they have rear springs? .... Just asking for a buddy I took my tank out last year, tossed it in the scrap metal pile ... I know I still need to take the front bracket/springs off and pull the float just because ... I had no rear springs. Only front. I think I understand how the springs work, to adsorb shock and prevent metal fatigue. I just assumed only the front had springs? .... I will admit my tank had some damage and bubblegum repair on the bottom, possible someone removed it before me. All that said, I am not restoring. I planned on just cutting sections out of radiator hoses and making spacers for the tank to the metal mounting brackets. I am sure Haggerty would beat me up for that.

Will toss my 2 cents in, and sure others already agreed or disagreed with my opinion. I would not feel comfortable putting some X brand liner in my own tank at home .... I know many have done it with great success. While I have read one Hot Rodders nightmare tail of his experience. I trust his work, He has the same 32 ford since he was a teenager and is in his 70's today, and built many a car in-between. He followed the instructions perfectly, and had success with other tanks. When it was time for the first long out of state cruise, all the liner came apart and clogged the fuel filter, broke down on the side of the road ... figured it out and was able to limp into town to a parts store. Had to tear apart and clean his carb in the parking lot, the auto parts store had 7 fuel filters in stock that would fit his car, and he bought all of them. He was able to limp back home .... just saying his trip turned into a nightmare and the fuel tank was junk after this. To avoid a trip like that with your wife along .... what would you pay? .... Any idea how long a wife's memory is? I think I would be more comfortable sending the tank to a company who does this professionally, and maybe offered a warranty. I bought a new tank for my truck, seemed reasonable cost to me ... I would actually feel comfortable applying a name brand liner to it, new metal, never had gas, clean ... just not sure what benefit I would receive. I imagine the cost of sending one out, would be about the same as replacing with a new tank .... which way you want to go? Maybe you do not have a choice? Buddy of mine was retired and lived in a motorhome in a park on the lake 100 miles south of south of Albuquerque, he decided to move back to Albuquerque. 1/2 way there his tank was rusted out and broke down in some podunk town. Local machine shop towed him in, cleaned his fuel system, and fabricated a new fuel tank out of aluminum. Took a couple days, my retired buddy just lived in the motorhome behind the machine shop while they worked on it ... They charged him just under $700 for the job. I wonder what it would cost, if a guy dropped the tank and brought it to a fabricator and had something made that would work, not a duplicate, something that would bolt in and do the job?

Yeah not bad engines, my grandmother drove one after she cracked the windshield in her studebaker ... pouring hot water on it to defrost it in the mornings

You hit a sore spot with me. ... I had a 1961 sweptline 1/2 ton slant 6, 4 speed ... Brother inlaw pulled out the 4:10 gears and installed what I think was a 3:73 gear. 6 months down the road, BIL said he still had the original 4:10 posi rear end for it if you want it .... sure I said, be glad to put it back the way it came ... It drove a little funky with the 3:73 but not terrible. And since it was just a truck sitting in the back and filled with garbage and drove a few times a month ... not a big deal. Fast forward a few months later, A buddy I worked with had a 1969 roadrunner 4spd car that was really sharp, he wanted to buy the 4:10 posi rear end from me, He was running some junk yard 3:00 something rear end. From factory his car came with the 4:10 posi. I had no interest in selling it, I installed it in my $50 truck. If I could only go back in time, I would give him that rear end just to make his car right. It is a simple 30 minute swap.

good choice, you will need a good fence to keep it straight. I do not at this time have a decent router table with a decent fence, something am working on to correct for household problems. Like any project, use what you have.

Yes sir you are correct. I forgot about the shovel strips being embedded into the wood to just leave it proud of the surface. There is some router action going on. While it is just a straight cut bit to plow out material at selected depth, nothing fancy, but it is 6' long and needs to be accurate so it looks right. Here is a photo of my original bed trailer, I did look under it and there was a decent gap under the strips and no router joint. Just saying I was wrong, My post was correct except for needing a router to counter sink the strips.

I like this suggestion .... often on some projects I use a 1/2 lap joint, and make them on my table saw ... I might be tempted to use the router bit set I bought for Tongue & groove oak flooring, I had some repairs in the floor to make. Honestly I think 59bisquick nailed it, You want room for expansion and contraction, rip your boards to width leaving 3/16" - 1/4" and cover with the shovel strip. When I do mine, I am going to leave the wood floating, then on shovel strips apply fasteners in the groove I created so the wood can expand and contract. The strips will hold in place. Sadly there is 4 corner bolts that go through the wood and bolts bed to frame, These are wider boards, bolted down they still have room to expand & contract. Thats just what I am going to do, K.I.S.S ... now I ask, did original have any sort of over lap between the boards under the strips?