Veemoney

Harmony, Most recommend 2 - 5 years so every 2 years is probably appropriate if your using the vehicle and storage is not climate controlled. You can buy the kits for rebuilding the wheel cylinders, most parts suppliers have or can order them. I purchased the wheel cylinder kits from NAPA parts stores here recently which include the seals and new spring. If you haven't already done the master cylinder you should get a kit for that as well since it likely will need attention and is an easy rebuild.

You likely had Dot 3 or 4 brake fluid in the system. Both fluids absorb moisture from the air over time. Depending on if your car sits outside or in humid conditions this can take less time than in dryer climates or inside storage. It is common with the saturation of the oil over time that water absorbed in the oil gets to a density in the oil where it starts rusting the carbon steel. Maintenance to prevent this issue is flushing old waterlogged fluid out with new fluid based on fluid recommendations for this. There is some discussion on brake fluids on this site here concerning brake fluids DOT 5 - Technical Archives - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com

Sounds like you may have some air in the line or the MC. Also make sure you have the rears adjusted out correctly.

I seen a lot worse with pitting and they still cleaned up well. Try cleaning a bit and pushing it in and then use air in the fluid port working it back and forth. Careful as they can shoot out when applying the air. I have that style on the rear of my truck.

You get a lot more pressure pushing the brake pedal pushing fluid through the line then you would with the vacuum tool using air. That may be the reason the brakes seemed to work well during use previously. If you have someone to help you could try pumping the pedal up and have someone open and close the bleeder to see if that pushes fluid and if anything else comes out of that side.

Nice street metal on wheels in this thread. Yes keep those beauties out of the snow.

Thanks, Not sure really what these moldings were originally off of. I was lucky they had most of the features required and only needed minor reshaping and cutting to size.

Some folks cut them off to eliminate the front bumper and then close off the areas in the grill where those horns come thru. The ones you have pictured include the leaf spring mount so that wouldn't be the case for them but they look in good shape.

Ran across a local selling a 33 Plymouth coupe body, fenders, trunk and gauges most everything but the hood. We got to talking and turns out he had 2 window garnish moldings that were to big for the car. I thought I could make them fit my coupe 1/4 windows so starts the project. They appeared to be for a larger 7 window car but the price was right so I picked them up. One on the left is before cutting and the one on the right is rough cut and shaped. If you look close you can see a series of 4 cuts at the top of the curve and another 1 about halfway down on the same piece. The cuts allowed me to reshape the curve to fit my windows. They were pretty close to start with. Cut a cardboard template to get the curves right and fine tuning the fit-up prior and during welding. I picked up an oversized garnish molding for the back window many years ago but never cut it down so jumped on it next using another cardboard template for half the window to get the curves. Took about an inch off the height and roughly 2.25” off the width then took some curve out of the top cross piece. So far so good just needs some final prep and paint. If anyone is looking for a 33 Plymouth coupe project The seller is about 20 minutes away from me and seems to be a good car guy with plenty of projects and easy to deal with. Marketplace - 1933 Plymouth Coupe | Facebook

Knucklehead, Sounds pretty bad but that maybe your getting over the hump, sure hope so. I had similar lower back issues on 3 occasions and feel for you. Last time I was just leaning over the sink brushing my teeth and boom I was clutching whatever I could get my hands on a I went down. Doctor gave me muscle relaxers last time and that rest got me moving slow. Then tried a Doctor Ho's device that my niece had that sends mild electricity from 1 pad to the other pad and you adjust the amount of current. Just sticking those pads on either side of my lower back really seemed to help drop the pain level and stimulate the recovery based on my previous experiences. It's called Tens therapy if you haven't tried it yet. Keep positive and posting for me it cleared up and my backs been fine for about 2 years now, wishing the same for you

Happy Thanksgiving folks. Have a bit of light snow today for the holiday over here. Plenty of people up here where we get Canada cold in the Midwest are using indoor wood burners. One friend has a 40x80 barn that is 2 stories tall heated hydronic with an indoor wood burner. System is about 50 years old and uses copper tube in the concrete. His father built it and did machining on the first floor and had office and storage upstairs. I remember he had a Goldenhawk and 33 plymouth stored in the upper level. Burns wood 24/7 and like all systems you need to do periodic inspections and maintain them to be confident they work safely as intended. There is a trade off for getting cheaper heat which usually means more labor and you have to be comfortable with whatever route you go. All fires we hear about these days come from electric or portable fueled heaters and kids playing with matches as the source. Now when I smell a wood stove burning I always think back to my grandparents home we used to visit near Wittenberg, Wi. as I was growing up. The upstairs bedrooms had floor registers to allow the heat to rise and warm the rooms and that brought all the smells from the kitchen with it. Grandma spent practically the whole day in the kitchen starting around 4am at the wood stove baking breads, biscuits and raisin cinnamon rolls. Then bacon ham and eggs as folks woke up and filed down for breakfast that she cooked to order and she never sat down with us to eat. She would clean up dishes till we scattered then clean ash and add wood throughout the day making cookies and cake or raised donuts. Some days I would hang around and help with the stove and we would play cards as the dough was rising or in between cookie batches. It was a good trade off to put a warm donut or 2 in a bag of sugar for a quick shake before anyone else got one. Lunch was usually sandwiches on homemade bread and always meat and potatoes at dinner. After dinner she would work on a rolled potica, fruitcakes or candies to set out throughout the next day. There was a small space heater that used fuel oil in the living room but that top loader wood stove and my grandmother that kept it going are what comes to mind when I smell a wood burner. Grandfather was a bricklayer with a lot of fireplace experience and grandma cooked on a wood stove, that's a good match I think. I only have a cast wood burner on the porch of the garage for warming up if I want to sit out on cool nights. I don't mind spiders but hate ticks which are in the spider family with a passion. Remember seeing a dog just loaded with them some as big as a little finger.

Every home I have had uses a gas hot water boiler for heat with either fin tube or radiators. Love these systems. Current home uses fin tubing baseboards. 20+ years ago I tore down my old garage and poured a slab with 4 separate loops of PEX tubing in it for the new one. Upgraded my house boiler 2 or 3 years later and hooked up the garage to the house boiler at that time. Simple system uses 2 pumps, 1 for the house and one for the garage that both run off the house thermostat. Garage loop uses an adjustable mixing valve to pull smaller amounts of heated water from the house loop to satisfy the mixing valve setting for ther garage loop after which the pump pushes the mixed water ~ 25ft to the 1 to 4 manifold in the detached garage. I use just 1 of the 4 PEX loops installed in the concrete. If I did it again I would install only 2 PEX loops in the concrete just to have a back-up loop in the pour the others were overkill. Positives are no flame, fuel fumes or forced air movement in the garage from the system. No condensation or freezing cold tools to deal with. Cons are the walk from the garage to the house in the cold. Cost per year - The old boiler was smaller but not as efficient as the new boiler so impact on cost was negligible. Picture below shows the snow ghost roll off the garage roof of Christmas pasts .

DCM has them in .030" and .012" for 5 bucks each. Or purchase shim stock to make your own is doable as well BS-3522 outer axle shim - DCM Classics, LLC

That is an interesting powerplant change and the 30mpg is great.

I like it and have to ask what motor are you running to that big vertical exhaust pipe?

I had the same thinking when I purchased my 47 WC, change a lot of things. I started fixing the non-functioning brakes and a few other items. It came with an extra MC that I rebuilt along with the existing wheel cylinders. Once I had the brakes done and started driving it my plan changed and now I enjoy it mostly stock. I drive it a lot The key to doing the brakes is understanding how this system works and adjusting it properly. Here is a link to the brake write up found under the Technical menu if you have not reviewed it yet. Brakes - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com. The write up tells you how to do it with or without special tools. My preference is without any special tools or gauges. Though I made a gauge for the first time I did the brakes I found I it to be an extra few steps I did not need since I like to adjust the brakes after the drums are on to a slight rub. I ground screwdriver slots in the anchor adjusters that did not have stock flats to allow the brakes to be adjusted with the drums installed. you can grind flats if you prefer to use a wrench. You just need to remember which way to turn the adjusters once the drums are on so take a picture and mark it up or draw yourself a diagram so you have it till you don't need it. This year I rebuilt the brake system again and I am still running the single MC. I still think of adding the dual MC from time to time. But IMO the stock brake system is dependable as long as all the parts in the system are maintained in dependable condition. If your unsure of the condition like the condition of a line then you replace the line.

Welcome and nice ride. Brake peddle should be high and firm, no pumping required so sounds like that should be a priority. Probably seeping a bit somewhere. plenty of info here under the technical menu. Brakes - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com

Doesn't look like your typical midwestern truck.? That's a good thing, real nice The underside looks very clean. From the underside of the bed wood to the paint condition on the underside of the frame it has likely been freshened up and not used much since or taken really good care of. Also looks dry around the rear seal of the trans so your either good there or your out of oil.? If your real lucky someone may have already upgraded the rearend gearing.

Missed that. ? Used to ride with a group of Kawasaki bikes on the roads and trips to the 1/4 mile track. I had a Z1-900 years ago I built up for that. Don't recall anyone having issues with the stock Kawasaki coils, they either work or they don't. Very dependable bikes. Cam chain tensioners and 2nd gear issues ring a bell.

Is number 4 the only one tested and the others have compression? If so it should be popping off and starting or trying to on 3 cylinders. If not there should be a drain plug at the bottom of each carb bowl to drain the old gas out of each carb. Once it pops off it should clear up any deposits on # 4. This assumes you have compression and spark on the other cylinders. Gas these days doesn't stay good very long in a bike.

It's a pretty safe bet from your description of the wheel cylinders condition that the master needs some attention and in hind sight as you mentioned you should have done it with the wheel cylinders but no harm done so far it sounds like. You may consider ordering one of these inexpensive brake hones. Lisle 10000 BRAKE CYLINDER HONE | Tool Discounter which should work on the wheel and master cylinders. I have honed wheel cylinders on the vehicle with one of these no problem. Step cylinders get done from both ends. Napa and other parts stores should have them in stock also. You can still find rebuild kits fairly cheap and wheel cylinders and masters are simple to do. Even if you order new it is nice to have your old components refurbished for future use if needed.

Should be good for another 20 years. Nice work

Best way is under the browse menu in here to use the pull down under menu use "member list" and you can type in Skrambler in the search box to get to his profile and send him a message. It will go directly to his inbox.

There is a member here goes by "Skrambler". Look him up he has a 41 also and I purchased trim from him for mine. Good guy for 41 Plymouth parts.