Veemoney

Jgreg, Maybe one of the other members here will recognize it from the picture. It does appear to have some markings or numbers that may be visible. I usually take some close-up pictures then view them on the computer where I can zoom in to confirm numbers and markings. Once I have the numbers, I google to get mor info on the part. I tried zooming in on your picture but could not make anything out. Also a shot of the backside of the gauge will help confirm the type of gauge and hook-up.

The Woodie shown wheels sunk from years of sitting and then cleaned up is great. My favorite is the 34 rumble seat coupe and I would love to see more pictures. I own a 34 PE and in comparison, the Dodge hood appears longer which may just be the lack of the louvered doors on the hood for air flow while the headlight buckets being stretched longer than those on the PE make it look faster just sitting still. Both of these slight differences really complement the Dodge just adding to those classic lines of these siblings. Does this car have a functioning roll down rear window and intact rumble seat as well? Welcome and thanks for posting

I'm not sure if this question is directed to me for something I posted or someone else but please provide a bit more detail so we can help.

My 47 WC has the stock thermostatic gauge, I am running 6v negative ground in my truck with a 6v alternator. My fuel gauge has a terminal for power from the ignition switch and terminals 1 and 2 that connect to their respective terminals 1 and 2 on the sending unit. It is working as it should. There is another style fuel gauge that came out around 47-48 that is different from the thermostatic type made by Moto Meter. I cannot speak to how it would work switching the polarity.

I sure enjoy the sight of a good salvage yard even if it is just pictures. "One man's trash is another man's treasure"

Dash fuel gauge doesn't really have any need for oil or have parts that would wear out from the extra swinging. Oil would actually cause issues I believe. There is set of points that you clean on some gauges if they are not working but yours is working so leave it alone would be my recommendation. Most issues are with the sender but yours is working as it should and swings with the sloshing of the fuel some.

My truck has been running great up till June of this year when I was out running around, and the truck sputtered and quit. My gas gauge never worked since I owned the truck but I was good about keeping it topped off and never ran out of gas. A sweltering hot June evening, a friend brings me 2 gallons of gas and the truck is running again. Up the hill I go but the truck slowly starts missing a bit if I push it so I baby to the next gas station and fill it up, but it only takes 3 bucks. It's tough starting but I get it fired off again and head for the house with the occasional miss. On the way home I'm thinking. I had a 6v Airtex electric pump on my truck the previous 8 years and then one day the truck shut off while idling in the driveway last fall. The pump was hot and I was running an inline glass filter and could see it had some air in it so I pulled the filter and when blowing through it could feel some restriction. I cleaned the filter as it is a serviceable one and reinstalled it and the truck was running great again. So my guess is the pump got hot again and quit but had some time to cool waiting for the gas can to arrive and then functioned just well enough to get me home. I had purchased a replacement 6v pump and a few 12v units after the issue in the fall so I was able to replace it the next day and so far no issues. So the moral of the story is had I fixed the gas gauge long ago I would not have assumed it was out of gas and checked the pump and filter under the hood I guess on that hot evening. What it means for anyone reading this is I'm passing on the info for the 6v pump I purchased which looks like it is still available on Amazon for about $34 bucks. So far pump is running well though a tad louder than the Airtex pump I don't notice it when the truck is running. Pump details say 4-7 PSI but I have had no issues with it so far if you chose to go with an electric fuel pump this one been going for 2 months now and gave me the opportunity to write some jibberish. ? Amazon.com: AUTOKAY 6 volt Electric Fuel Pump Fits for Buick 1927 to 1930 1931 1932 -can be assist or primary : Automotive

Some of these cars and trucks are likely hybrid models that work on electric power part of the time like as they coast up to a light and then start the gas engine when the gas pedal is pushed to accelerate up to speed before switching back to electric.

Here is a thread on this site that should help with the speedo chatter. Should be a wick to oil on the speedo according to this thread though I have yet to pull mine to oil it. If you do pull the bottom cushion to help with access under the dash then it is easy to check the fuel gauge sending unit which is directly under the drivers seat where you will see a metal plug that pulls up with a screwdriver to reveal the fuel sending unit. when I pulled mine the cork was gone.

I believe mine is original to the truck. When I pulled the sender there was no cork float present so I fitted it with the wine bottle cork in the picture and just came back from a ride. So far been a week and still working as it should but will see how long it holds up. Don't throw your old one out till your sure the new one fixes the problem.

It sounds like you pulled the sender and did a resistance check. Follow JRs above testing so you can determine if the gauge and sending unit are working with the sender out of the tank. I pulled my gauge when doing this test but you can get away with just pulling the sender. Set the sender flange up level on a something that allows you to position the sender float in different positions. Use some extra wire lengths to connect the sending unit wires to the gauge wires. Set the float in a few positions and turn the key on to view the gauge reading in the car. Give it 1-2 minutes to reach the full limit as it may keep creeping up. Check it with the float positioned at half tank, full and toward empty. Make sure the sender has a good ground connection. I found even testing out on the bench that I had to wire brush a spot on the sender to get a good ground before it worked. Stuff a rag in the sender unit whole to keep things out of the tank and any unwanted sparks from that opening. Picture below may not be identical to your gauge, but you should get the idea of makeshift positioning of sending unit flange and float for testing.

I'm not sure if you purchased the whole drum to drum rear end or just the center section. I purchased a drum to drum rear end with the numbers 1115941-7 on the center section that was out of a 1948 plymouth sedan for my truck. I just used the center section that I swapped into my truck to get better highway gearing. Based on the numbers I would say you have a mopar rear end from the correct timeframe. You can find out what gear ratio you have by locating the stamped numbers as shown in the pictures attached. The car rear end I purchased had the leaf spring mounts on the bottom though and my truck has the mounts on the top of the axle so be aware if you intend to use the whole rear end that you may need to relocate them if they don't match your car set-up.

I have Goodyear Wrangler SRAs on my 47WC original truck rims with no tubes and no issues. Been running this set for a few years. Radials really make a big difference on the handling of the truck compared to the bias ply tires.

Nice find and condition with good running gear. Should be a pleasure to cruise down the road in.

Should clean up, don't throw in the towel yet

I have this old Craftsman toolbox that mounts to a wall. Has images inside the cabinet to help identify where certain tools go for those who have trouble figuring things out.

My 47WC fuel gauge has not worked since I had it so I'm checking it out. This and some other posts have helped a lot. Especially those pages attached from the manual explaining the thermostatic fuel gauge system which is what I have. Not sure if anyone found the correct replacement sender for the thermostatic gauge or a work-a-round for a newer sending unit. I pulled my sender apart and cleaned it up and adjusted the wiper so it is working with the gauge on the shop bench. Working now despite the resistor being warped and having a few windings broke. I posted a few pictures of my sender insides for anyone curious on the insides. Any new info on replacement senders for the thermostatic fuel gauge system or possibly the winding portion? ? Thanks.

I was working under the dash on the gauges today in my 47 WC. Pulled the bottom seat cushion and just enough room to get my head by the gas pedal and 4 speed with my backside outside the cab worked to give me access to the fuel gauge. Did have to make sure I had my tools placed where I could grab them and work around the pedals. Not bad but I am wide in the shoulders, so I expected worse.

This motor pulling brings back memories of my teen years and then some more recent activities. I have an appreciation for laying in the dirt and working under a car on blocks, logs or whatever is worthy and available. It is both challenging and rewarding although now I would also consider if there may be a neighbor or friend known in the area with a front end loader on their tractor or skidsteer willing to help doing the pick using the rigging off the bucket. Even if there is no machinery Just an extra set of hands and eyes not to mention support in case something unexpected happens during the lift is always a good safety practice.

Sounds like you had a rubber cup type seal and that is what you will need to replace like for like. The one you show in the picture fits around a brake piston with a groove.

Wagon is looking good, some repairs and $30 of gas gets you to the show on time?.

Enjoyed reading your post and progress so far is looking good. Beautiful car that deserves the extra HP

Here is one built from a torch bottle cart that followed me home. I cut it down and added a platform for the welder. Has 2 small wheels in the front so it rolls around the shop nice as it sits, or I can tilt it back if I need to.

Last visit was April 24th

Can't ever seem to get them to pick-up the broom.