Veemoney

That's funny - I am a grinder and not a welder! The truck is looking Great, Glad to see you got it together and on the road. Machinists and Fitters in the trades always called for a "More-On" when needing some molten metal added somewhere. ?? I'm a sander and grinder as well .

It's all good. I could have it mixed up as well but here is what I recall. Also glad to hear there is a member so close by. The bars on old Skokie rd were called "Down the Street" (country) and the other was called the "Night Gallery" (Rock). There was a third bar there also but it had burned down, I think it was called "The Mouse Trap". I worked the door at the Night Gallery up till they closed around 1980. It was later reopened as Blue Suede Shoes (50/60s music). The man that owned the Cheetah I club on 137 and 41 also owned the Cheetah II club on 173 and 41. When he passed the club on 173 became the 41club if I remember correctly. I'm on the north side of Waukegan in the township off Greenbay rd. used to stop in on some friends at the custard shop in Zion when they were doing their cruise night.

Cheetah Club was at 137 and 41 back then. Never opened after the Greek owner Chris was shot and killed mob style. Car pulled up in front with a shotgun out the window if I remember correctly. Also was a small place called the Sahara Inn just south of there that is gone as well. There were plenty of strip clubs and bars open back then 23hrs 7 days a week, they just needed to shut down 1 hr for cleaning. Good Times. ??

I find many of the rubber parts I buy these days are hard almost like they are made of plastic. maybe it has something to do with the process or a preservative for the rubber's shelf life. The gas tank mounts for bikes for example have no give to allow installation. I use a heat gun and warm them up just hot to the touch but don't go overboard and melt or dry them out and they act like rubber after that, even once they cool. Maybe worth a shot on those $2.50 parts.

Worked at a Clark Station for 8 months till winter, pumped gas, checked oil and cleaned the windshield for all that pulled in for gas. Checked radiator and tires by request.

I have the power washer below and it works well, also an extendable pole saw, extendable and standard hedge trimmers, and weed-eaters for the yard work. Use one of those 2wheel dollies you can lay back and use as a 4 wheel cart that I put a piece of plywood on to carry a gas generator and these tools around the yard with a short cord instead of trying to use a couple 100' cords. I bought the 3500 generator for back-up power and figured I would put it to use so started switching over to electric tools. As for the pressure washer, don't use it much but it does what i need when I do. Also tucks away nicely into it's original box that is ~20"x10"x12" for storage on a shelf. It was passed on to me and I didn't have high expectations but was surprised at how well it works.

He purchased a few bikes including one of the Crockers from a friend and his family here in town around that time. I passed the link on to them and they said when they visited with him after the sale a few years ago they knew he was fighting cancer at that time but he still made a point to take them on a tour personally. As I understand it everything in the museum is gassed up and will run and they are proud to show you when your there.

Los, hope the creeper helps you along with the project. The concrete is looking good, should help keep the dust and clean-up time down immensely. We are looking at another foot of snow coming in to accompany the cold weather up here. On the bright side it may impact the bugs that show up later this year if were lucky

Doing some cleaning and found one of the old rechargeable electric wrenches used for a special area where we could not have air tools blowing in the room. Will have to locate the other one. These have a button to reverse direction but don't ratchet. Lots of torque. Located this old galvanized toolbox supposedly a WWII box with separate internal box in the lid. Anyone have any info on what went inside please pass it on. Thanks

VW bug meets Pacer

Nice project, well worth the effort. Reds and golds as I recall were the most expensive colors to purchase at the auto paint store by me. Looking forward to seeing this 1/2 price greellow or yelleen color you speak of.

I wouldn't mind doing a walkdown and some treasure hunting there as well. Checked their website and e-bay store. Prices listed on the Bay were on the high side but all did have "or best offer" included on the auctions. Just didn't see anything I needed that bad right now. He probably knows where every car or part is located right down to pieces of trim. At 80 years old I would agree he should pass it on and enjoy the retired life but then he has the perfect setup to do what a lot of retired folks do. Find a couple cars to restore, locate some parts and join a forum ?

It looks nice just not sure I would use it much. Creeper always seemed like more work than good for me. I open and save cardboard boxes if decent in size to lay flat on the ground and they seemed to be less trouble if I need to be under the cars. Easy to slide on an off of and clean too. Rolling chair works but most times I prefer the 5 gallon bucket. If you do pick it up maybe grab some fire blanket in the event your doing some welding or grinding since that black cover could probably use some protection from those elements.

I have not posted much lately but this hit home and deep. Those areas are pretty thick metal. Hate to see it happen to anybody but very sad when it jacks up some vintage hard to find never be original virgin again Mopar steel. I feel for you and have a recent fender issue to deal with as well. Will be interested to see how you tackle the repairs.

Cool picture Sniper but no harness?. Made a few trips up above polar cranes and the first time up is the worst as I remember.

I worked Bay City, Muleshoe and Glenn Rose Tx. and over the years all the hot states and other countries. You learn what works for each. Most of these most know but first is this Bandana which I will put in the tool category since it is a chiller basically and the crew and I used them. We soak them and put them in the freezer. Wrap around your neck afterward and they cool the blood like a chiller when it passes your neck and then the cool blood spreads to the rest of your body helping to keep the temp down. We will all shut down at some point and once you take your body to that limit your brain will shut you down before you reach that threshold again. So I've been told. Swap coolers work well in dry heat but a dehumidifier or air conditioner was always preferred if you could swing it. Machining equipment and the laser trackers would start having issues once you topped 100 degrees so we shaded and tented to keep things dry when working outside. We then created smaller work zones within that area that we could manage to condition the air. In places where we could not tent small work areas we set-up cool down areas next to them that the teams could use. So for folks working in carports Visqueen or vapor barrier plastic could be your friend to set it up in conjunction with an conditioner. I use a portable dehumidifier but also keep this 2 ton window unit on a cart at my shop if things get unbearable. I roll it around to stick the back end out the door or under a section of plastic. I use some green house plastic tarps which is a bit tougher material then we used at work on the covered porch of the shop. With the plastic you don't need to go all the way up the wall either to cool the area. The heavier cool air will fill the area like a tub if you wall it on 4 sides which works well for ventilation. Just make sure you not trapping any heavy gases.

I have a 47 WC with the non-syncro 4sp. You just can't force it. Did not think I would keep that trans but i did get used to it.

I run a 6 volt neg ground alternator in my 47 with stock distributor/points. The headlights are always bright now and the electric wipers no longer slow down while idling. The generator worked as it should and I never had any issues with it outside of the norm but I drive it often and for safety the upgrade is worth it to me. I prefer the alternator upgrade on the old generator bikes as well in most cases and points for the ignition.

After driving any vehicle on the highway at 70+ around here when I get onto the off ramp I have to remind myself to slow it down going forward. When I started driving the older cars and trucks it also took some adjustment for me to fully enjoy going slow. For my 47 WC I purchased a 2-carb intake set-up and a T5 trans, next I found a 48 rear end complete with a highway gear. As I was getting all the parts and driving the truck I started appreciating the old battle wagon and still drive it essentially as delivered from the factory. I do still tend to come off the line fast if I'm first at the light and I learned taking off in 3rd and then shifting to 4th makes for a more enjoyable ride. I always enjoy seeing an old fish picture of a Cuda or Marlin of that era.

Nice work on the oil studs and the engine bay is looking good.

Eneto, Based on the 2 statements you made above I would say if you can still turn it over with a screw driver your fine. Your dad had some experience and would have surely used some lube during assembly back in 80 and 30 years later you were still turning it by screw driver so my opinion is your good. What ever was used on the crank during assembly is still there if you were just turning it over as stated. Because you were able to turn it over and if you still can I feel you should have nothing "To Tight" that would cause any harm. I would pull the plugs and make sure it still turned over by hand and if so then bump it over using the starter a few times with the plugs out. If your going to try and start it put the plugs back in and if not you may squirt a small amount of oil in each cylinder before putting the plugs back in till you are. Good Luck

Concrete in and mother nature played nice. Looks good so far, do you cut score lines in the concrete in that area of the country.? Most typically do up here but since I had waterlines to worry about I did not. After 20+ years only some hairline cracks in mine. Binford Picklejack 2000 Maybe, Didn't Gallagher use the sledge hammer often in his routine?

Was looking at adjusting the front edge of my 41 coupe door out to meet the body contour. I figured the hinge had to have some adjustment in it but I couldn't budge the screws so far and figured I would confirm the pocket hinge is supposed to adjust before I break something. Sure enough PatS posted a pretty good link to a guide on door adjustments and the late Don Coatney also provided a great link on door adjustment as well that made me laugh. Reposting both below

My 47 WC has the Bosch 6volt electric motors. I needed to rebuild them and found some parts on the bay to get them going again. The main issue is a small fiber tooth gear that over the years disintegrates. I think the newer style motors you find on E-bay would be a good option as well, similar in style to the Bosch . If you stick with vacuum I would run a test first to see what kind of vacuum you are getting at the engine and then to the wiper motor, and as was mentioned make sure you have good lines. The vacuum pumps are readily available used and I purchased and installed one on my 67 to boost my vacuum for the brakes. Most hybrid and electric vehicles are using them so readily available at the recycle or e-bay as well but most will require 12volts. Along with the vacuum pump I used a pressure switch and relay so it only runs when needed.