Veemoney

Enjoying the content. Use to run around on Honda and Kawasaki inline 4s back in the day with trips to the local 1/4 mile track. Hacks are cool and are on my list just need more room. Here is a shot of my fishing boat some friends named the blue whale and a babe on a bike shot.

If you warm up that area on the cover a bit and chill the bushing it should make the insertion go a bit easier and reduce the amount of tapping force required.

Sniper, Way to go paying it forward and in the heat. I worked in that Texas heat often and remember it was no fun, even worse in the back seat of a car. We had one man on the team that would have salt stripes on his t-shirt by noon that looked like white crystals.

Plenty of good ideas. Prior to threading the bushing it looked like it had the clearance to be extracted/installed. Since the major diameter of the threads are cut close to the OD size of the bushing now it would make it easy enough to Dremel 180 degrees apart and split the bushing to remove it in 2 pieces leaving the washer intact and to size. If the new bushing fits through the washer then it could be for thrust though it shows no signs of wear. My 2 cents, with inflation I probably owe you now.

I was addressing the immediate question but T120 brings up a good standard practice that goes along with canceling your insurance when selling a vehicle. I also create a 'Bill of Sale" document along the same guidelines as he mentioned above. It can be on plain paper or are available for download and serves to document the transaction. Make two copies so buyer and seller each have one. Anytime I ask for a signature or give one I.D.s should be provided. Say for example although you signed the title and hopefully dated it there are many cases where a buyer does not register the title immediately into their name or worse off resells it with the open title to another buyer. Although you have signed the title over during the sale it was never re-registered so without a bill of sale there is no document showing the sale with signatures of the buyer and seller at the time you sold it. Now say the car ends up is some kind of trouble and possibly has some fictitious plates on it since it wasn't registered and the last owner the DMV shows is you. Hope this helps and kudos to T120 for bringing it up.

You can cancel anytime with most companies. Just let your insurer (agent) know when you sold it. You may receive credit for a portion of the term back by check with most companies based on the terms of the policy.

Some pretty crafty wood work you put together. Looks like it worked well for you.

Love the looks and style of the car. Would like to see some pictures of the inside if you get a chance to post some up. Enjoy the ride

That looks like a relay maybe for a horn would be my guess. Also nice looking car that from the first picture appears to be well cared for. at some point. I'm in the camp of starting first before pullling things apart. All the checks that are mentioned will need to be done but for me in your position I would proceed as follows: 1)First thing I would do is pull spark plugs and try to turn it by hand to make sure it is free. If it spins check your fluids to make sure you have some in there and note the condition of each(clean/dirty). It was sitting awhile so these will need to be checked after running again. 2)Pull the coil wire so you have no spark during this check. Pull the gas line and use a catch can/jar so you can capture some of the gas from the tank in the jar. Put in a battery (verify polarity) and have someone turn it over with you watching the catch jar and engine compartment just enough to see what condition the fuel/contamination and pump is in. See if you notice anything else and to tell them when you get gas to stop. 3) If it spins and the gas is not full of crap make sure you have a good gas filter in place and hook it back up. clean up any gas spills, Install the coil wire and check for spark using one of the plugs. If you have spark install plugs and go for the start. run it and let it warm up while checking for leaks, overheating, sparks off the plug wires or other oddities. As you move through these steps the plan may change based on the outcome of each step.

If you go the route of using the ranger rear end with spacers I would consider getting some that a register similar to these but note these are not exactly what you need but the seller may be a source you could check with to see if they can provide them to your application. They are counterbored to fit over the existing raised hub of the axle(registered), and on the outer face have a raised register for the rim. 20mm 5x4.5 to 5x114.3 12X1.5 67.1 CB For Jeep Ford Escape Wheel Spacers Adapters | eBay . Another thing to consider is by moving the wheel out from the wheel bearings that carry the load you can add additional stress to those bearings which may be negligible.

I went thru the bonding process back in 2000 with a 67 charger I purchased for parts from AZ and had it trucked up to IL. I had only received a picture and it was a shell but solid desert metal. It arrived sitting on the top rack of a smaller transit trailer with no wheels on the car and some parts in the back. It was to nice to to cut up for the panels so I decided to get a title. To answer your question on the where to go. I took the pictures sent to me of it in it's current state to a local car lot. Car lots buy and sell cars and usually have someone that will write up an estimate/appraisal. Doesn't have to be much on an old car or truck especially if it is not running and make sure it is on the dealer letterhead with the name of the appraiser (see my example). Some folks make the mistake of fixing them up before trying to get the title which could lead to more cost to get a title and used car tax. I bought the car in August of 99 and applied for bonded title in 2000. It cost $100 for the bond and I received a bonded title about a month later. After 3 years I got my money back. I don't believe the appraiser charged anything but I offered to pay. There was a $15 dollar charge for the paperwork to process the bond from the insurance company at that time. I had paid $500 for the car which I told the appraiser and that is the price he put on the estimate?. The 2 pictures are the hard copy photos the seller sent to me of the car and that I brought in to the car lot. Appraiser never actually looked at the car in person.

Any updates on your progress?

Agree, It is a solid California fender that had no previous damage that I can see. Gray paint is over the original factory blue and it is coming along.

I sent a pic to a local shop that fabricates panels and does ground up restorations. Web page is pretty impressive. He replied $300-$500. I like your idea better? Mother nature, you gotta take the good with the bad and keep smiling. I pulled the fender and will grab a hammer soon.?

Merle, I consider it pretty lucky as well. No other damage at my place. Another large tree limb on the other side of the house also came down but just brushed the gutter on the way down. My neighbor one house over had a limb break through his roof. No one hurt so all is good.

It was last August, middle of the month and a beautiful day. I picked up some groceries in my old truck that morning, offloaded those and then started cleaning up in the garage. I looked over at a kayak I use for fishing standing up in the corner and thought I need to get out fishing again. I only thought about it for a second or two maybe at the most. I went back in the house and then noticed the sky got dark, I mean dark and it was only 4pm by then. The wind started howling and rain came down sideways, I heard tornado sirens in the background and I mean the wind was really blowing now to where I thought glass was going to blow out of the windows. The cat sprang up and dashed for the basement and almost simultaneously with the precision of a tiger I matched her every stride. In a matter a minutes the winds subsided to what I would call a normal rain storm and I headed upstairs to check the news. As I listened to the weatherman on the TV the wind picked up again. I looked out the East window and could see my yard and what looked like a battlefield littered with smaller and larger branches and 1 large one hanging in front of the window as if to block the view. That’s when I heard the sound. You know the sound you never want to hear in a storm, when you’re in a house with a yard full of large trees. Yes, the howling wind was deafening again but the sharp high-pitched scream of a branch Crack-Rip-screach-Craaaack-Swoosh-scrape-on-metal-Kabaaam Sound was clear as a bell. I didn't feel it hit the house but I had the shop and some vehicles in the driveway. I found out later 15 tornados passed through the area. Well shame on me for thinking about fishing I guess but it could have been a lot worse.

When I rewired my 41 I purchased "Molex" block connection materials from Allied. I took a quick look and they have a wide selection of terminal connectors as well and a nice filter to zero in on the size and style you need. Panduit - P10-10RHT6-L - High Temperature Ring Terminal 12 - 10 AWG #10 stud size non-insulated - Allied Electronics & Automation I have found terminal connectors with the heat shrink in place allowing you to tin, crimp, solder from the lug end and seal. Here is a resource for those at another outfit I have used in the past. Personal though my preference is to use bare terminals with solder & heat shrink 10600 Master Appliance Co | Kits | DigiKey

Yes I agree with PA's explanation. Just had these out and noticed when I cleaned them that they have both red and amber in the design along with the clear globe.

32 degrees this morning . My plants are still sitting in the windows waiting on the warm weather.

These came with my 41 Plymouth. Both have that white look when dry but turn clear when they get wet. They appear to be amber on the sides and the globe and the rest is red. No sign of a reflector but it has peaked my interest. Lit them up with a flashlight after I gave them a wash.

Had this machine out the other day. From the 30s I believe and still running well. Had to replace the cutting oil line and put the belt back together. I think this is a model "C" but not sure and I have no manual on it.

Old Alemite grease pump. My guess would be from the 40s

Moving stuff around in my shed. Modified an old bottle cart for my mobile small 110v welder set-up. 4 wheels work well in the shop and just tilt it back on the big wheels if I need to head out the door. Still need to finish this "Pure Oil" Lubester. Been looking for a matching Lubester cover to finish it off.

I have this on my 41 lens and always thought the added protrusion was to help make it more visible for those approaching from the rear side since the overall lens profile is low. Also helps to see the car when pulling out from a series of parked cars at night. Just my assumptions ?