Veemoney

Jeff, I had found this article and a few more on replacing the oil with grease or a grease/oil mix and it is good to hear that it is working well for you on our applications. Thanks for the response. Can You Replace Oil with Grease? (machinerylubrication.com)

Orange may be the NP manufacturers color if I had to guess since your rusty one is orange inside and mine is the same orange color as well.

Bill I have the same transmission (case C-18661) in my 47 WC. I'm still clanking into gear on occasion with mine and does have the big truck whine to go with it. 1st gear is double super low stump puller that I never used. Just changed out the rear center chunk 4.10 for a 3.54 gear. Prior to the change out I rarely used 2nd gear either. I don't think you can hurt that trans, just change oil in mine and it came out as clean as it went in. Also picked up one of your parts disks, Thanks

Jeff, Glad you got to the bottom of the problem. I'm interested in the semi-grease you used and if you mixed it with your existing 90wt or used the grease straight?

Did some fishing down by the lake and snapped a quick picture on the way home. Rain was coming in and caught the moon before it disappeared into the clouds.

I just had I comment As Greg's points are right on. If a person were to pump pressurized grease in they may not see it coming out the backing plate seal because I believe excess grease could likely exit into the housing first. I just did axle seals and something to consider with new style seals is they are mostly in this case directional. They hold back or seal better in one direction than the other. The outside seal is made to keep grease in and if pressurized from inside it should force the seal to expand against the axle to some point before loosing it's seal to pressure. The inner seal is made to hold back oil and should pressurize from the oil side so grease from the axle bearings would likely be able to push past this seal first into the housing I believe. If your pumping grease in with the drums off and waiting to see a smidge of grease exit the outer seal you could be filling up the axle housing. Just my observation when installing them

Oh yah, Long read here but if you made it this far the old fishing truck hauled a nice on e in. 39 inch beast

As I worked on the axle and brakes I noticed all the scratches and small dings in the other fenders and the lower section of the grill. I mentioned earlier that the paint chalked up quickly and I had almost the full 3/4 pint of base coat I had started with. The truck was still sitting outside on stands with the wheels off so I started prepping the fenders. I just wet sanded quickly and dollied out some dings in a day for the dark gray fender areas and the lower grill. I wasn’t looking to make it exceptional, just clean it up a bit and protect the metal that's there. I masked it off the same day and shot it that evening. I had to go back for an additional 1/2 pint of color to do the lower grill that was light gray but worn thin over the years and 2 spots on the fenders the next morning then clear. I did all the work outside and surprisingly had very little dust specs, a bug or 2 but the clear laid down nice and flat so I left it as sprayed. I use it like a truck so better than expected. Since I had all the materials except color I spent $38 on my paint repairs. After looking at the new paint I figured I should touch up the wheels with a coat of chassis black from the paint cabinet and then the bumpers called out for some single stage black also from the cabinet. Front bumper is off the rear of my 41 coupe. The light gray will remain as is for now and I have been running it for about 2 months now.

Nothing special with the R&R on the brakes and I did change over to Dot 5. My rear brakes on the truck use the 2 divorce wheel cylinders per wheel which I did not see in the parts manual for my year so not sure if this was stock. I purchase a cheap pressurized bleeder off the bay and I must say that is some of the best money spent. It has a unique fitting/coupler that I was able to utilize and adapt to the master cylinder lid. I purchased the 3/4-16 bolt to fit in the stock MC cover and the shut-off valve from Ace or Home Depot and cut all but 3 or 4 threads off the bolt. Drilled thru and tapped the bolt center to accept the valve and used an O-ring originally for the seal between the cover and bolt. I cut a rubber gasket for in between the master cylinder and cover and later cut another to replace the O-ring. I pressurize to 12lbs during bleeding and had no leaks. I left the unit installed on the cover to bleed off any trapped air in the lines and couple and uncouple the tank as needed.

During R&R on the brake components I found the drivers side wheel had a small amount of play in it. Further inspection identified the king pin locking bolt was loose. Tightening the bolt took the play out so the fit of the pin in the bushings was good. I checked the passenger side with the king pin bolt loose and it was good and tight. I pulled the pin on the driver’s side and the worst spot I could find showed the axle bore .002” oversize and the pin good. While looking into oversized pins or bushing I came across repairs done on other axles with similar condition using a punch across the top and bottom surfaces perpendicular to the pin to tighten up the hole. Given my particulars I was willing to give it a go. I used a blunt low stress punch working in a “C” pattern on the same side as the locking bolt so as to keep the fixed side of the bore opposite the bolt from being manipulated. I did this on the top and bottom surfaces ~half way between the OD and ID with the pin in place and it tightened up quickly without raising the surfaces. I tapped the pin out and dressed the top and bottom surfaces where I tapped with a file. Was able to use the same shims for assembly and pin went in tight. Locked it down with the king pin bolt and will keep an eye on it to see how it holds up.

When I pulled my truck axles and pig all looked good with the exception of the leaking pinion seal. When I pulled the doner axles and pig I found the axle bearings lacking grease and spalling on the axle bearing cups. Soft copper washers were used on the pig studs I assume to stop leaks. Washers were deformed and cut off to allow the removal of the center section. After cleaning and checking everything I assembled the 3.54 pig into the truck axle housing with new style seals. And serviced the u-joints. Some observations here: · Both the car and truck axles and pinions were 10 splines and interchangeable · The car axles were slightly longer as was the car housing and bearing surfaces were smaller by ~1/16 so bearings and seals do not interchange between them though the housing could take either with the proper length axle and matching bearing/seal/race components based on first observations (car axle top, truck axle below). Spalling in car race shown · I had trouble pulling the driveshaft with the u-joint binding on the pinion side yoke. I remember reading here where someone used a heavy backhoe bucket to load the rear springs and allow more clearance to remove the joint. I loaded toolboxes, a small welder and other items to facilitate loading the rear springs to allow removal. · I purchased a Moog387 u-joint after reading here where others used it in place of the original cross type u-joint. It did fit but I worried it would spin in the yoke. · I have an 8-3/4 pig from a 60s b-body that has a matching 10 splines on the pinion. I looked into swapping the u-joint yoke from it onto the 8-1/4 pinion to allow using this newer style u-joint yoke with the Moog 387 u-joint. The Moog 387 has the same diameter as the original cross u-joint used in my truck. It looks like the newer yoke could work by opening up the bore ~.040” to accommodate the Moog 387 joint. A spacer with a thickness ~.350” would also be needed in between the yoke and bearing on the pinion shaft. I ended up using the original yoke due to time but thought it was worth noting to be able to use a more available u-joint and not have to preload the truck springs to pull or install the driveshaft. Something I may try if my pinion seal leaks in the future.

I have a cheap Dent puller kit I used to pull my axles and seals. Most kits come with accessories. I drilled and tapped a portion of the bushing ID shown in the picture to 3/4-16 to screw on the end of the axle and mate to the puller shaft. Used the L shaped hook on the end of the shaft for pulling seals.

I knew my wheel cylinders needed some r&r from the wet spot visible under where I pulled the fender. The truck sits outside mostly and it was time for some TLC. As I pulled the brakes, I figured it was time to change the gearing, the 4.10 ratio was limiting with the stock 4speed. About 8 years ago I bought a 3.54 ratio rear from a 47 car the PO swapped out for an 8-3/4 model. Checked out the brakes at that time, cut the spring perches off and left it in the corner with some spare parts and a bucket of catfish bait. It was time to drag it out and do the change. I’m thinking that bait may be pretty ripe too but not messing with it for now.

Follow up on my fender repair I pulled the rear fender off the truck and did most of the work on the fender in the garage using these 2 hammers and a piece of Laminated beam flipping the fender over and rolled it on the board as I hammered. Worked from the outside edge of the dent to the inside, 1 hand hammering and the other hand rolling the fender to position it so the board would give the fender support. I was surprised when probably 98% of the dent was removed with this process in about 30 minutes. I use the orange dead blow hammer as much as I could to coax it back. At the deepest point of the dent the metal had a sharp crease where it had folded, I choose to weld a bead along the crease and then filed that weld flat by hand with a flat file. This added strength and helped shrink expanded metal in the area. I had a small area on the lower skirt that was flexing (oil Canning), I welded 4 short beads ~1” long on the inside of the fender in that area to tighten it up and shrink the metal there. When I did the welding, I kept the fender on the board to allow me to tap the welded area directly after to keep things flat. I used a hammer dolly kit from HF to tweak any low or high spots after that My truck was a dark blue from the factory in lacquer paint and somewhere during its life was painted the 2-tone gray which seemed to be enamel the best I could tell. paint always chalked up quickly giving it a dull primer look so matching that would be a challenge. I ended up pulling a headlight bucket that had some blistering started and took it to a local for the paint match. I used paint from most of the big suppliers and name brands with success over the years and found this local tool/paint family owned shop as my go to. Picked up ¾ pint of BC color premixed ready to use for $23. Matched the paint using the paint chips with the holes in the center of the chips laid over the headlight bucket and it was almost perfect. When I Sprayed and cleared the fender and headlight bucket, they were nice enough to not require any buffing but they were to shiny for the rest of the truck. I wet sanded the fender with 800 grit and did a light buff and that matched the other fenders nicely when I walked it out to the driveway where the truck was sitting.

Ed, looks nice by any name You can call a couch a sofa, settee, lounge, or davenport but at the end of a long day it doesn't matter much when your on it.

Kool track machine project. Could move a mountain of snow with a plow on it.

A couple ideas for the drawer from things I have done in the past. Quick coat of a stain varnish to seal it up and keep the wood finish since it is still presentable. Paint it blue or black and use a toolbox drawer insert on the bottom to keep it clean and items from shifting Leave as is and cut a sheet of thin stainless or aluminum for the drawer bottom.

Follow the link to a thread on this site with info for head milling and compression ratios. There is a chart in it that provides info for years and makes. Cylinder head grind - Mopar Flathead Truck Forum - P15-D24.com and Pilot-house.com

One way would be to go to the Activity/My activity streams/Content I started

Mac, that's some history great pictures and your car is looking good. Hope AZ is treating you right.

Recently purchased a new style battery charger when my Sears quit working. As you stated they need to sense a certain amount of voltage to activate the charging function. The one I purchased has a start setting of 50amp that bounces on and off every few seconds which is another sensor safety feature, once you turn the key on the vehicle it kicks in full for starting. Not a fan of these new chargers so located an older 10 amp manual version on Facebk.

Mine was tight as well. I made a square drive 5/16 out of a 3/8th Allen wrench by grinding 2 of the corners flat and touching up 1 of the remaining flats. This also allows you to make it a little oversize and tap it in. Also I cleaned the area on the housing around the plug and warmed area around the plug with a propane torch and that made a big difference, not rusty just gummed up and it release pretty easy after that. Heat around the plug not on it and no reason to go red hot just warm it up.

I used to buy 6v batteries from Napa, then I tried the Optima red top. Only bought 1 and it is still going strong 7 years now. 800cca compared to 640cca, my truck cranks over noticeably faster compared to the previous batteries I used. I don't care much for the looks of it but it sits under the floor in the truck and I can pick it up with 1 hand so no issue there. If I ever need to replace it I will buy another.

Good so far, do you have the inner seal part number/s you used? Couple things to check also while you have it apart. Slide passenger side axle into the center section while you have it out to confirm no issues or burrs. Should slide in nicely. Slide axle into passenger side housing. Should feel minimal resistance when you reach the sealing surface.

I think pulling the center section is a good idea and should be easy since you had the axles out. Will give you a chance to look it over and replace the pinion seal if you have not done so already. Here are some other things that can also cause the situations you mention below if you do not find anything wrong in the housing or center section. The picture that follows shows a car axle at the top with a truck axle below it. You can see the taper and seal surfaces with diameters marked. There is ~1/16th difference or .030" a side on the OD of the inner seal surface. The axle tapers up from the splines to the hub. Once you get the axle so far in you would likely feel the axle moving up as it ramps up at the inner seal/axle contact point going through the seal. Not sure if you are working on a truck. Since it takes a strong hard push at the end that could signal an issue with the inner axle seal since that surface is short and comes into full contact at the very end when your pushing the maximum diameter through the seal. (possible distorted/damaged seal or a smaller ID seal used that is for the car axle.)