Tom Skinner

I have noticed over the last 50 years that some Fulton Sun Visors are specifically for GM or Ford products, and some for Mopar products. Try moving the brackets forward as Andyd suggested, I hope you have the right Sun Visor. Kilgores Sun Visor above is the ones I have used on my Chryslers since 1973.

Merry Christmas Everyone!

As always - I agree with all the above repair suggestions, however, the easiest quickest check is: The Fuse check (30Amp) at the Transmission Solenoid. If it isn't working well - and it only takes a minute to check it. Good Luck!

Plymouthy Adams has it right above.

One must bear in mind that gas was 76 - 78 Octane (with Lead) when these Buses rolled off the assembly line. Somewhere in the range of 10 - 11 cents a gallon. I haven't really heard the coveted ping upon heavy acceleration after setting my timing since gas was still leaded. Of course that was with my first 1948 Chrysler back in the 1970's. Back then I timed my 250.6 cu. in. Flat Head by ear. Today I use a Vacuum Gauge and a Timing Light.

Usually Advance Timing to 4-8 DBTDC Book Calls for 2 but new gas changes that somewhat, I use 87 Octane Non Ethanol Gas

Once again - Loosen your Distributor Bolt. Static Time it with the engine off. Start your engine. Set your timing using a Vacuum Gauge. While its running turn your Distributor until you obtain your highest Vacuum setting. Tighten the Distributor Bolt. Regardless of whether you have ethanol gas or non ethanol gas this method will achieve your best timed setting. You can also set your carb using the same method. As for other problems that may exist - using a Vacuum Gauge Chart the Vacuum Gauge Hand should be steady. If not read the Chart to determine what exactly the problem would be. Good Luck! Tom

The one that has my part LOL

Static Time (Not Running) Dynamic Time (Running).

Just a thought. How about hooking up a Vacumm Gauge Test and determining what actually it going on?

On e-bay they sell a TDC Whistle. I bought one. Cut the top off of a spark plug, glued the whistle on the end of a short hose (1" Long). at the top of the plug. Screw it into no.1 cylinder turn you engine around by hand with the plugs out. The instance the whistle stops blowing your at TDC. I also built a Micrometer with a longer Rod that inserts into no.6 cylinder passage at the top of the piston that works even more accurately. Either one works just depends which one you grab out of the cabinet first. Once at TDC your ready to remove the Distributor or re-time the engine or whatever.

Why is it always: The Sky is falling, The Sky is falling? No matter what anybody says, I will continue to drive my Antique Car. Just like that. So trying to scare people when there is no reason just doesn't work for some of us. Please keep crap like this off this site. Oh and by the way I'm not in either insane Extreme Political Party. I am an Independent, Unaffiliated or whatever jackass moniker someone wants to try to label me as. Keep the Waa Waa's off this site. If you don't like California, or its laws - MOVE, don't cry like a victim. P-15 - d24 is for guys that fix Old Cars and Drive them. Like real men, with wrenches in their hands. Bingster your in Iowa what do you give a rats ass about California Laws. Steve Lehto doesn't look like a car guy to me. One other thing don't answer any surveys asking idiotic questions about your old car, your only feeding the idiots that ask them. They don't own or maintain your old car - you do. Drive your cars. Argh take this down or lock it. Its made for scaredy pants

By Cooper 40, You will most likely have to replace your Distributor Plate to solve this problem. A bigger Screw may work but will just monk things up down the road. EBay sell them. So Does Andy Bernbaum, and many other places. Unless that screw is just slam worn out, (maybe a new one would work, I would opt to replace the Dizzy Plate. Good Luck with your repair! Tom

If they leak, I would replace them as a Parts House guy I know said they usually only last 7-8 years nowadays anyhow. I would think yours is on its way out, In addition to that FYI they are (6 Volts) about $21 at O'reilly's, or NAPA. But I am sure some of the older ones lasted seemingly forever as my first 1948 Chrysler (owned from 1973-1984) never needed one and in addition to that looked original (making it 36 years old at the time of selling my car and still going). I don't like telling people advice but a symptom of a coil on its way out is the car may start and run, but once warmed up on the road say 15 minutes it may stall out. Once it cools off again it will start the car again, my experience with the 1948 Chrysler I now own (2007-2023 at present). It took me quite a bit of replacing Ignition Parts to figure out my coil was indeed leaking and once I replaced it I have had no more stalling issues. Good Luck with whichever course of action you decide to take. Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Put some old wood Clothes pins on the Gas line. As Jackie Gleeson would say: And away we go!

I just changed mine out. Now if your Brake Pedal is mushy you may need to. If I recollect correctly I bled mine not long after changing it out. You may not need to but its always good to bleed them every couple of years anyhow.

I also carry a rope in my trunk at all times incase my 1948 Chrysler ever needs towing in. It is to tie off the steering wheel with, to toe it in backwards if need be. Learned lessons from 45 -50 years ago.

Back in the Day the 1970's I needed my 1948 Chrysler with the Fluid Drive Towed. The older Tow driver (Probably in his 60's) tied the Steering Wheel and lifted the back of my Chrysler's wheels to tow it in backwards. When asked why he did that his reply was: "You can monk up the rear end and or the transmission otherwise. If not I can call a Truck to piggyback it in so as not to mess it up" I personally would never Dolly it with the M5 with the front wheels up on a Dolly. Undoing the Drive Shaft would work, but be sure as to keep the speed of the piggy back dolly below 55 -60mph so as not to burn up gears in the rear end, plus mark front and back positions as indicated above. I do not know for a fact that what I am saying is correct, but, and I repeat but, those old timers knew what they were talking about. I would not take a U-Haul employees word for anything. The one that hooked up my Truck a year ago with a trailer on it never hooked up the brake lights on it, and I trailered my Daughters car clear across the US with no brake lights on the trailer before realizing it. Hell he was only young enough to be my grandson. The younger people don't know squat about our old busses. They just looking to get you payed up and out of their lot. They wouldn't know about a M5 transmission if you hit them over the head with it. Ignorance is really Bliss. But hey you'll pay the price for their ignorance, not them.

My first 1948 Chrysler had the original bias tires on it, I bought it in 1973. I then proceeded to drive it 11 more years. No problems, they were Kelly Tires. They were 36 years old when I sold the car. My newest 1948 Chrysler I bought in 2007, I bought new bias tires from Coker - Bridgstone Wide Whites. Still driving on them, no problems. I don't listen to everyone jumping on board to replace their tires every seven or eight years. My pick up truck has 302,000 miles on it I am going on my 5th set soon. I average 60,000 miles per set (Cooper Brand) Matters not, I drove Highway, back road, gravel road, dirt road, just inflate them properly (I keep mine just below MAX within a few of LBS). I either lead a charmed life like Sgt. Saunders in The TV Show Combat from the 1960's or all this replace your tires all the time is BS. Tom

hep2jive, I agree with Dave72dt, Get the right cap on there. another thing is my Coil was going bad last summer and my engine died at slowing down several times, coming home from rides. Ignition Coils I was told at my Local NAPA usually only last 6 - 7 years at best. I still think you need a Cap with No. #4 in it. Good Luck running down the problem. Tom PS. Very nice car you have there!

Harmony, Once the Box Door is stripped of the Bake Light down to the Metal one must build the thickness back up (where the Bake Light) was. Thus using the Rubber Spray. That is the only reason for it. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. You seem to have found one doing your Glove Box Door as you described. Either way, a Glove Box Door restored is a good thing especially if its cracked or unsightly. They don't have any lying around anymore, so one must come up with a method to fix the old ones.

Dan, I start restoring by completely removing the Bake Light. Then I use the spray version of the Tool Dip Rubber (for tool Handles) by spraying about 5 coats onto the metal shell (Glove Box Lid). Then I sand it down smooth to 800 grit and Prime and Paint it a Base Coat. Then I mix Oil Paint and using a feather add the veining. Then after several weeks to dry (Thats the picture you see at the top of this Thread next to the feather) I finally will apply 5 -10 coats of clear Lacquer. The reason I use Oil Paint is if I am not happy with the Veining I can wipe it off and start over. With an Acrylic Paint or enamel Paint it would dry right away and I would only have one shot at it. It took 7 tries to get me happy with it. Trying to patch the Bake Light would just make a mess. Once Bake Lite shrinks and cracks it is shot. So I just remove it. It resembles plastic but it sort of a for runner of plastic. It almost has a rubbery feeling to it along with the plastic feeling once it has aged for a long period. Time has its way with everything.

Yes

Creo que lo llamamos diseno de sangre para vomitar. I believe we called it the puke blood design. Either way what beautiful designs.

Muchas Gracias Senor Los Control