Tom Skinner

Bad Wire then. Look you know what opinions are like - everyone has one. Static Time the engine check for spark. I have found reading these Threads for ever that those electric fuel pumps are nothing but a PITA. Do you have fuel to the Carb? It must be born in mind One must have Spark, Fuel, and Comppression to Start an Engine. Endeavor to go back to the mechanical one if at all possible.

yup and if it don't blow with the key on it don't work but as I have said one most certainly have spark delivered to No.1 plug at TDC to start these cars. Do a Static Time and it will probably start baring a bad coil, or points

That is your Transmission Selenoid. Check the Fuse other than that it just controls your Fluid Drive Transmission. Horn Relay and Starter Selenoids find and repair bad connections, and make sure juice is getting to fuel pump as Sniper has stated. Likely you have the problem in your Distributer if you don't have spark at the spark plugs or a bad coil Not knocking people for electric fuel pumps, but I never needed one for fifty years of owning these old buses My opinion the points or coil are bad or you knocked it out of time turning the Distributer in an attempt to start it

Grumpy Jim, I agree with Sniper. Electrical Problems need solving. You may just eat up your Battery messing with the unknown. Time to re-wire and re-ground where necessary. Good Luck! Tom

Sam, Thank you !!!!!!!!!!

Sam, On the homemade Brake Adjusting Tool using the 3/4" - 16 Nut I have a couple quick questions: 1. What size Threaded Rod and how Long? 2. What size Angle Metal and How Long? I am going to make my own for my car since $95 or $450 seems a bit ridiculous to pay for one. Thank you in advance for the information. Tom

The Tool is available through ebay or Andy see above for $95

Chris, One more piece of advice - don't take this the wrong way - One should endeavor to learn how to work on their own car (in the case of our old Mopars) as one could become upside down in one quickly paying someone else to do the work. In addition to saving tons of money - the Pride of owning your car magnifies as you Master it Mechanically. Any Suit can grab his wallet and get some mechanic to wrestle with his car - but the owner that fixes his own car is grabbing the right "W" - namely a Wrench not a Wallet. Just MHO. (No offense to us guys getting too old to turn Wrenches LOL) Tom

Chris, In your post you say your mechanic bled the front brakes over and over again. Refer to your service manual to confirm: One should start bleeding brakes at the wheel furthest away from the Master Cylinder first followed by the next closest, etc,. finishing with the one closest to the Master Cylinder. Another fact is if your front Wheels have two Brake Cylinders the Lower Brake Cylinders should be Bled First. Andy Bernbaum Sells the tool for $95 refered to above for Shoe Adjustments, in addition to that I agree with Sam a Cylinder might be leaking or a Shoe was made wet with brake fluid during the job effecting the "grabbing Brake Shoe Side". These Brakes require either a seasoned mechanic or one with experience on our old buses read (an older mechanic) its not a rush job sort of thingy. Good Luck! Tom

Ed, I know this sounds hackneyed but here goes: In the old days us poor boys would loosen the Castle nut on the drum you want off and drive in a circle until you hear a loud pop. Then your drum is loose and ready to open up. But I seem to like Rich's advise better now that I am older and have an old reliable Drum puller. Life is about choices, your call. Good Luck! Tom

Sandy, One must own a Service Manual, if one is serious about working on these old girls. They are almost "Christine" like. The Service Manual will walk you through every question you may have. Someone has posted a picture above with the place to add Fluid. One must know how to tap the starter to position the plug to the fill opening. Using ISO 32 probably, but once again if it is full just plug it back. If it ain't leaking or broke don't fix it. Does you Odometer run backwards like mine and "Christine's"? LOL. Tom

Chrysleritis, When I did my clutch I noticed a little bit of oil in the clutch cavity. I had my floor pan off. I checked my FD Fluid Level and it was full so I just did the clutch and tranny mounts. I did my Drive Shaft U-Joints also. The one thing I wished I did was replace the Tranny Gaskets as well so - when the opportunity strikes you may as well do that as well. I only say this because I have a drop of 10wt sort of dripping slowly out somewhere in the form of a dime size or so on the floor week after week of driving mine. I haven't really went looking for the leak hard even though I just replaced my emergency brake band on my tranny this spring. I did buy a 2 gallon thingy of 10wt. oil 10 years ago for like $24 so I don't have to worry about adding a little to my tranny once a year. LOL. Be Safe! Tom

Cooper40, I take it your floor pan is in place thus the tight spot. There is a Starter Wrench I believe is 5/8" that might help shaped like a half round that might fit up there if that is the size bolt. Other than that when I removed my Tranny to do a Clutch job I removed the front floor pan. It is tight up under there. Watch your fingers, I knocked my index finger nail right off prying around down there. That really hurt. Tom

Olaf, It doesn't seem to want to load. One other thought, if your Transmission Mounting Rubber is shot and pancaked flat your Linkage adjustment wouldn't work. I wouldn't open a transmission until I sorted out all other options. The Service Manual walks you through a series of trouble shooting prior to removal of a Transmission. I also had an upshift problem with my Fluid Drive earlier this year. Thinking it was the interrupter switch on my transmission. I removed it and massaged fresh oil into it. Re-installed it, checked my Tranny Fluid Level which was 1 Pint Low added oil to the Tranny and it was fixed - so I caution you to try all that you can before trying something drastic. Viel Gluck! Tom Ich Komme aus North Carolina.

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Olaf, Bleib Ruhig Dude. I will try to send you the Booklet in written form. (Key: Loosen the nut on the Steering Linkage and return the Shift lever to neutral) follow the instructions on pages 18,19,20, and 21, and you will probably be OK. Tom

Thanks Sniper, I wasn't sure how to load it. Also The Imperial Website does offer the same Service Booklets. Its been a while since I have been on them as well.

I had this happen and is was my Linkage to my transmission was out of adjustment. The Steering Shaft has an adjustment for your Transmission Linkage - it needs some adjustment. See Transmission Fundamentals Service Reference Booklet Vol. 2 No. 6 on the Imperial Website pages 18,19,20 and 21. That should fix it. Tom

Pearsebln, Sometimes when a mechanical fuel pump is on the way out that happens also. Get a long handled screwdriver place the tip of it around the engine with your ear on the handle on the other end (with the engine running). You should locate or identify close to where the noise is (Old Mechanics trick). What ever you do don't get too close to the fan belt and blades or get hurt. Just reasonably locate the noise and go from there. Using oil usually means rings, valve guides worn or hopefully not bearings going, however, my guess is its something simpler like the fuel pump ticking. One more idea: have you changed your generator brushes lately? until they break in they will also cause the ticking your reffering to as well. Viel Gluck und Grusse dich aus America Tom

Whether 6 or 12 Volt - its the owners choice. One point to make is, if one chooses to remove their old wire harness and use it as a template/pattern to make a new one with new wire (using a good service manual or wiring diagram as well) then a lot of electrical problems will go away especially if the harness on your car is shedding its insulation around the wires. I opted for Rhode Island Wire, Because I could. but looking at the old harness taken apart afterwards I could see how easy making one could be. Of course this presupposes one has some electrical sense - which my electrical abilities leave much to be desired. Either way nowadays both are expensive propositions if I have read this thread correctly. So here is a shout out to all that are changing over to 12V. Good Luck. Tom

Does this help?

GTfastbacker, Wow, Great improvisation! I do remember someone telling me back in the 1970's that 10" or 11" Blades work best on our cars. I have owned different 1948 Chrysler 's since 1973. Sometimes believe it or not I have seen the Blades at K Mart and or Walmart occasionally for sale on their Wiper Blades Racks. Great work! Tom

GTFastbacker, I agree with Sniper. Those Splines look FUBAR. There were two kinds of wiper arms Anco and Trico. I was at a car show once and the Windshield Wiper Vender came over and told me I had the wrong Wiper Arms and Blades on my 1948 Chrysler, I have Trico's on mine and they work fine. Yours look like my Tryco Arm. He said I should buy his Anco's for $100 - Arms and Blades - this was 10 years ago. Mine are 11" Trico Blades, of course clipped onto Trico Arms. Mine still work fine. Andy Bernbaum sells the Anco Sets for $99, Arms and Blades as of the last time I looked at his Parts Sight On Line about a week ago or so. Its any bodies call put what you like on there. Be sure to measure your Blades some are 10" and some are 11" since you indicated yours is a 1941, and mine is a 1948 there might be a difference. Maybe someone with a 1941 Dodge will chime in here for you. Good Luck. Tom

I agree with Joecoozie. Coil probably going bad.

HCD, I am 4 Hours Drive from you, so I guess I am not going to be much help other than being here to answer questions. The Service Manual, Service Booklets (On Line), and You Tube Videos will be a tremendous source of information for you. Usually any trouble with a M-5 will be electrical, followed by Hydraulic. These Transmissions hold up quite well with only occasional issues. Feel free to visit here, there are some pretty knowledgeable Members at your service. Tom