Tom Skinner

Bill Hirsch 396 Littleton Avenue Newark, NJ 07103 973-642-2404 They will send you samples. If I remember correctly somewhere around $70 per square Yard is right. Its pin stripped wool (correct fabric and design).

Don, True a noisier vale is a healthier valve. The Old Timers would set em hot - running. Smoking a Lucky Strike all the while. Almost an hour would pass by, and they would look up and declare "your killin me" but they would continue on. When finished the old Flat Head would sound like a Singer Sowing Machine on Stitch Cycle when running. Start like a gun shot, and be so damned quiet you'd have to goose the gas to know it was running. Alas those old timers are gone now - they were in their hay day in their teens and twenties when they learned on those old Flat Heads in the late forties. A guy named Bob in Glen Ridge New Jersey did the first Valve Job on my first 1948 Royal in 1973. He's in Heaven now. I know he's there, Prayers have been sent up to him for decades now daily. Set em hot - running the engine. take your time - leave a little extra room - a thousands or so. Bob's watching over your shoulder now fellows making it right - smoke a Lucky or an American Cigarette - non filter. Live forever in our memories. God Bless Bob.

I bought an extra distributor for my car - used on ebay but in reasonable shape. Took it apart and put it back together again several times to familiarize myself with its functions. As a result, I have gained some knowledge, and an extra part for my car. Everyone is entitled to their own methods on their own cars. I have read the praises on the HEI Systems. I just wouldn't personally change mine out for that system. Nothing wrong with Chevy's, I've even owned a few in my day (64 and 72 models, even an 85). Truth is I'm a bit of an electrical ignoramus and don't understand those HEI Systems. If you knew someone monked up the springs in your Distributor, why not replace them only, and be proud of yourself for finding the culprit in short order? Not meaning to sound like I'm on a high horse, I'm just a purist for a true restoration. Some of us old windbags like me still like it that way. To each his own. The most important thing is going out for a ride in our old cars and enjoying them. Good Luck with your repairs. Tom Huntersville, North Carolina

Just go by the service manual and you should do fine. HEI's and HIE's or whatever is for Mr. Bad Wrench. Real Mopar mechanics restore engines to original - not substitute parts. If that's your GIG own a Chevy, or just put Chevy engines in everything. Mr. Good Wrench will Love all you Mr. Bad Wrenches L.M.A.O.

I guess I meant to say shim it with spacers - they hold the starter in the right position so as not to have teeth grind. Like the Pontiac's and Chevy's of old. It doesn't appear that will help you anymore.

Muy malo mi Amigo. I reckon shimming it wouldn't have helped at all.

Skiviskaves, Can you first try shimming it? then report back your findings. That would be the first cheapest option toward a possible repair? If that doesn't work, then go on with other options - plan B etc. Tom

Have you done a minor brake shoe adjustment, after doing the double bleed and Acme 1750 adjustment? When having replaced the shoes (in pairs of course - per axle that is to say). That is what is known as a Major Brake Adjustment. One should then use the Cam Bolts on the back of the wheel housing to obtain a higher pedal. Assuming you have no leaks and have bled the system correctly then a minor adjustment is at hand. Jack the car up (wheel off the ground) spin the wheel with one hand while adjusting the Cams until just making contact then back off just enough that the wheel spins free again. In this way you will obtain the least amount of shoe clearance and the brake pedal shouldn't travel down so far before engaging the drum. Go around to all 4 wheels - same proceedure. You should then test drive it and apply brakes hard to be sure its not pulling to one side or another. The best brake pedal travel should be about an inch from the top of travel when the shoes engage the drums - that is the good high firm pedal you are trying for. Tom

1946 -1948 and early 1949 models for 250.6cu.in. engine: Starter No. # MAX4050 They are hard to come by, on e-bay I saw one get away from me for $250 a month or so ago. They regularly go for the $350 - $450 range (Rebuilt and clean looking). These Starter Rebuilder's are roaming e-bay snapping them up and rebuilding them and selling them to overseas Mopar owners in the $750 range. I know because I spoke to one of them on the phone, up in N. Dakota Auction House are on there buying them also, they are also snapping them up cheap and auctioning them off. So your competition on a Starter is most likely going to be a real bother. That MAX4050 only comes up once or twice a year on ebay When opportunity knocks don't try to be cheap on your bid. Timid won't win it. Good Luck! Tom PS. By the way your picture doesn't look like the MAX4050.

Yes, I have relied heavily on this site for information for years. Good point! I also don't mind if my Thread is hijacked. Anyway, Front Ends have always been a mystery to me and I'm learning about them now. Of course, learning about front ends in your late fifties doesn't leave too many more years to be working on them L.O.L. Replacing Parts on them are a bit like wrestling - say a clutch job. But if you enjoy laying down while working - Great!

OK, I jacked her up, Did a full Lubrication and let her down on Level ground. Bounced her. I made a toe in toe out rack out of 1x4 and 1x2 Clear poplar marked it front of tire rolled her back 1/2" a tire and re-checked. It is toe in about 1/16" . Whew! Only about three hours of fun, but it proved to be worth it. I thought it was toe out because I was just using a measuring tape the other night, and that proved to be a bad way to check it. I have been watching to many You Tube tutorials L.O.L.

Gents, My Front end show toe out about 1/2" I made a wooden rack to push under the front wheels to record an adjustment. Do I just loosen the tie Rod Bar extension bolts and turn them equally until I obtain 1/16" Toe In? Thats what I have read in my Service Manual, but have never done this and am ignorant to the process. Thanks for any help. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

I'm with Don. Post a Picture. L.O.L.

NAPA sells Speedy Sleeves at around $45 a pop. I have had a few Yard Sticks broken over me in the sixties by teachers that caught me talking when I wasn't supposed to be. L.O.L.

I think someone has suggested this but: Here goes again..... A Vacumn Gauge Test will usually tell if a Valve is sticking, weak spring etc. Usually if its not the coil or condenser spark plugs wires etc - in other words everything you have thrown money at, then its time for Vacumm Gauge Tests Compression Tests, Leak down tests, You will most certainly find the culprit then. Good Luck! I hope its not serious, or just live with it until you have to "go in" to fix something later down the road.

Donald Smith, I agree with Jersey Harold. Condenser. Or just call her Skippy. L.O.L. Tom

If memory serves me, the Black one is for normal - standard use. Beyond that it sound like your oil pressure is fine.

Donald, Your better with words than me. Well spoken! Tom

Panheadguy, I don't have a picture but yes, there is an insulator in that cup. It insulates the spring from the cup. As Shel bizzy said as you press the horn rim the ground causes the horn to sound. Tom

Is your RPM's above 450 475 at idle - if so no upshifty By the way you use a Tach and Dwell to figure that out. In this order: Set points, around .020 Check Tach and Dwell - Dwell at @38Degrees RPM's @ 450 Set Timing @ 2 AFTDC Use a Vacumn Gauge to set at highest reading @ 20" steady Check RPM again around 450 -475 at the highest Reset Vacumn again at highest setting. Same problem run diagnostics for transmission using a service manual Check Transmission Selenoid Relay for blown fuse - wires tight and all units grounded with star washers. etc. etc. etc One more thing a sticky linkage can screw up RPM's also - clean clean clean dem linkages Good Luck

Mopar Benny, Great explanation! These Car Shows today (at least in Charlotte, NC) Motor Speedway have about 50 each of the same three years of the same three colors Corvettes, Mustangs, and Chevy's from the fifties and sixties. Now don't get me wrong they are nice cars, however, when you see 150 to 200 cars of the same three years and the same three colors and all their owners standing there ogling over each others cars - its just plain weird. The oldies and goodies aren't there anymore. The REO's the Essex's the Pierce Arrows, The Airstreams and the Airflows. Gone. Unless its a WPC National Show or Carlisle Show - very very few Old Mopars. Every now and then there's a good one (smaller show) like at Salisbury NC (Mopar Show) in September etc. Most big Shows are half way across the USA and would cost an arm and a leg to go to with or without your car. In fact just getting together with my local Carolina Chrysler Club for a picnic at the lake is about all I'm interested in. Sometimes a Club Member will host a cookout in their back yard and we'll all ride over with a covered dish and eat good. It seems the smaller the show the better the show. The big Car Shows fill up with obnoxious drunks by mid afternoon, and they all act like they own your car and want to get in it or open doors to look inside etc. Charlotte Motor Speedway Shows are becoming a joke. I have to roll up my windows and lock my car just to go use a restroom. People seem to have lost their manners. Oh well I guess I'll stay home, mow, and drink a cold Barley Pop. Tom

Don, 10-4. I got you. God willing I'll be there! Tom

Don, Thank You! Tom

JipJob, I do not have an extra Cap laying around, as I'm sure Don Coatney does not also As a matter of fact, I have even tried contacting the guys that rebuild these Master Cylinders in the past, in an effort to obtain one. I did that because I was wanting one to do a gravity feed Brake Fluid replacement. Wanting an extra Cap to tap a hole through for Bleeding purposes. That's when I found that Kit at Harbor Freight that will do it without the extra Cap. Its got attachments wide enough to achieve a gravity Bleed. As I said before if your trying to "duplicate" a fitting or cap - take the one you have with you to a supply store and try to match it up. These Master Cylinders are getting rare as Hen's Teeth, and unless you luck up on one in a wrecking yard or go on ebay and ask the seller to pull one off a parts car - then no cigar. Remember there's always more than one way to skin a cat. We on the Forum are as helpful as we can be, but we're not an endless source of free parts. (I have not taken your Thread to mean that we are, I am merely pointing out that salient fact). They also sell these Master Cylinder's on ebay for around $170 a pop S&H not included. Good Luck! Tom

Woodie, I don't really know where to look for sure but if your trying to do a brake bleed procedure there is a Gravity Feed System for Sale at Harbor Freight that will sit above that wide Master Cylinder Cap Hole and Gravity feed the Master as you pump out the fluid at each wheel cylinder. The only way I know to get a new cap is take yours off and go to a good Mom and Pop Hardware Store, not a bubble wrap store they wouldn't have one. That Kit is about $29 but well worth it, because one guy can bleed the lines really good with one and get a firm brake pedal. I'll even go as far as to say a good plumbing wholesaler or maybe even a Lowe's Store (Plumbing Section) might have a Cap that works. There is also an Irrigation System Wholesaler you might try. Tom