Tom Skinner

Gents, I had to reset my timing a few times in the last month. Seems the Timing mark on the damper was shifting (not Blurring) around a few degrees. Finally in my Schauer Timing Light Box - I read the directions. It stated that if the timing shifted around it might be a bad Condenser, Rotor, or Points. The Distributor Breaker Plate I put in there some time back had the old Condenser in it IGS3004K (1948 Chrysler Royal 6). The Points looked fine and gapped .020. The Rotor was tight and newish (I had replaced it a few thousand miles back when I put in a new Vacumn Advance from AB's. The car was running better and was holding a steady Vacumm of 20", but getting crappy gas mileage. I changed the plugs and gapped them properly. Finally today I put in a new condenser. It runs a whole lot better. I couldn't believe how much better. What a difference a new condenser makes. Now for my question: How do you test a condenser? That is without just stumbling upon replacing it after screwing with this "problem" poor pick-up, and crappy gas mileage. Then slowly going through and replacing Rotor, Cap, Vacumn Advance etc. (The Vacumn Advance was obviously on its way out) anyway. But once again is there a simple way to test a condeser? Tom Skinner

Don, No not Champion. There are a dozen or so of these Radiator sellers on ebay. Almost all of them state "for standard transmissions only" I don't need a radiator, mine is fine. I was just looking to buy a spare in case mine ever goes to leaking. For the $145 - $175 range they are in, I thought that was low enough to buy a spare. No worries, I'll wait around until one comes along. Tom

Gents, A fore mentioned Radiator Sales Company on ebay and (most other brands also state the same) said they really couldn't say whether their radiator would work with my 1948 Chrysler Royal, with Fluid Drive. As stated "For use with only Manual Transmissions" was a caveat in most of these ebay listed Radiators. When you click the buttons, it shows it is compatible with a 1948 Windsor. I had even told them their dimensions were right on, and compatible with the Royal. I pressed them to contact their manufacture for information. They did and emailed me back, they said their manufacturer didn't know what a Fluid Drive Transmission was. They also stated that their manufacturer was in China. That ends my interest in that particular Radiator. I am one ignorant S.O.B. but I know that they are even more so ignorant than I am. "It takes one to know one" comes to mind here. They can't even sell Radiators, because they can't qualify their radiators to a Customer. I ask a stupid question? How do you sell something you don't even know what it is your selling? I hope they have thousands of these radiators sitting around a warehouse until they go broke. L.O.L.

W.F. Brown, To adjust the Float a little lower bend the tab slightly away from the float. I see your from Nebo, North Carolina. I am from Huntersville, North Carolina. Are we neighbors? I just Map Quested Nebo, we are 1 hour and 42 minutes apart. You are almost in TN. I used to live in Johnson City TN. Nice Mountain area you live in. By the way those Carburators usually leak a little on hot days right where your arrow is in your picture. Tom Skinner

Take out your plugs and read them. While you are at it smell them. Do they have a faint burnt anti-freeze smell to them? I had that problem, and re-torque my head bolts. They were as low as 50ft lbs for the front 2 cylinders. Once they were down to 70 ft lbs the problem went away. Remember Torque only a warm engine with cast iron head. a cold one if the head is aluminum. The Chrysler Gods smiled on me and my head gasket held the new torque and solved the problem. Tom

Don, I found one from DNANMotoring that is an exact Dimension Fit on Ebay. I will just call them on their 800 # and ask, but I am sure the Dimensions are spot on. Tom

Gents, I have a question? All of the Champion radiators on Ebay, state:For Manual Transmissions only. Does that mean because I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal with Fluid Drive I would be getting a Radiator that wouldn't fit? Perhaps because it would be to thick to fit down into the Bracket? Or do you'all suppose that they mean a manual transmission is actually a Fluid Drive? I am going out on a limb here, and suppose I am needing to just call them and inquire? Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

NAPA Non-Detergent Straight 30 Weight Zinc? Chelated 15 Milliigrams one a day for me for good prostrate health LOL

If I can I will load a picture they are about 2" Long Tapped into Exhaust Manifold with Lock Tight when I changed out my Manifold Gaskets

Bill Hirsch 396 Littleton Avenue Newark, New Jersey, 07103 Phone (973) 642-2404 Frank sent me samples (I had cut a small swatch of Original Fabric from under my front seat to send him) they matched it perfectly. There is another place in the magazines that I have seen also somewhere up in New England LeBarron Bonney I think they are called. These guys don't play, they will match your original correctly. Or go modern with another fabric if you don't care what fabric is original.

I went to a MOM and Pop Hardware and bought two Small Threaded studs for my Exhaust Manifold drilled and Tapped them in where needed. Use a Center punch. I even used a coordless drill. Then just simply attached the choke back with star washers and nuts. You can probably rummage around your favorite Auto Supply House Bins and come up with compatable studs. I believe they were about an inch long with course thread on one side and fine threads on the other end.

Cut any Carpet that suites you. I had Noel Green Carpet Cut with Rustic Red Piping (Edging). Killer Look. At Christmas it Screams Merry Christmas! Or is that against Sharia Customs to say now.

They sell them on ebay. Type in 1946 Plymouth Trunk Mats. They also sell Roll Rubber Mats that are Ribbed wide enough to make your own on ebay.

Yeah, I have an original Flasher $45 one Not Chinese. I try to buy the original stuff, not the cheap knock off replacements.

Thanks! Young Ed and Plymouth Adams for the good advice!

Great News! I went to the front directional light (disconnected it) Bulb looked good. I changed the Bulb anyhow 1158, but then I fidgeted with the socket. I bent the spring was all the way in and no tension so I pulled it apart some to create some spring tension in the socket, and cleaned the connection ends with a brass brush. re-assembled it and now everything works as it should inside and out. It must have been a crushed spring or dirty connection in the front right directional socket. I have found with these 6 Volt systems these Cars can be very finicky if they are not grounded just right at the body or sockets aren't positioned just right etc. So if anyone else has this problem out there, this is a possible cure. Hell after all these years of driving this way I won't know how to act with all my lights working LOL.

Gents, I have a question which may or may not sound intelligent to be asking. I have had a couple of 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedans that have only one (right Side top of dash) light (directional indicator light). When the Left Directional (Blinker) is on the one Light will blink, however, when I have the Right Blinker on it does not blink (at the Dash) but does at front and rear directional lights. When the right blinker is on the directional lights at the front and rear of the car blink properly but it does not blink at the dash indicator light. This is how it has been for 42 years with 2 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedans. Now for my question (I have changed out my Directional Switch with no change) is there a fuse in the line burnt or is this just another Chrysler thing that has always been, and shall always be? I have the wiring diagrahm and as I have said everything is wired up right and everything is blinking correctly outside the car, but no indicator on the dash turning right. I will look for a fuse or bad ground but this may be a standard Glitch of Chrysler years gone by. What is the general opinion on this out here in the forum? Thanks for any input. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

I cruise between 55-60. I have had her up to 70. Stay in the right Lane on Interstates. Don't give a damn what people behind me want/think. They aren't in my world anymore anyhow, they are just knee jerk re-actioning down the road stressed out. I tend to take older country roads where 45-55 is acceptable, but as mentioned above the pineapple heads abound and crawl up behind you expecting you to floor it. That ain't gonna happen. They usually back off if you slow down some. Then I resume the speed limit. Driving on weekend seems to be the only way to go with the older cars now. Gone is good old 55 mph Law when we could keep up to traffic in the right lane like back in the 70's.(enacted law after the 74 Oil Embargo and maintained until the early 80's, even though it was largely a scoff law).

If he checks it in the morning - it would be 7AM. L.M.A.O.

Bring #1 Cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC). Check Rotor Position for #1 (About 7PM Position in Distributor) . Static Time it. No spark then is probably a broken wire somewhere or a bad Starter Coil.

Gents, I'm not trying to be a know-it-all or endorse any business' in particular - but here goes. Only Trust reliable Sources like DVAP (Desert Valley Auto Parts) if you like junk yards, or Andy Bernbaums, Antique Auto Cellar, or Robert's if you like Vintage Parts Houses, or Ebay (where sales and PayPal are monitored as well as feedback). Only then will you have some sort of assurance of accountability from reliable businesses or sources. Singular lone wolf parts guys, that can't provide upfront phone numbers, addresses, and pictures of their parts just can't be trusted. For them to prey on us Forum Guys is understandable, however, now that we are warned, they should not have any foot hold anymore. It is a pity that no one seems to be able to trust individuals anymore. If they are well known Forum Members with a respectable post history, then, I could trust them. Anybody else gets to "talk to the hand" as Old Arnold Schwrzenegger would say in the Terminator movies. Thanks for the heads up. Tom

Marc, My Chrysler Royal (1948) Sedan has basically 4 Harnesses. 1. Engine area (Going through Firewall) This includes Ignition wires, Headlights, Directionals,Generator, and Starter, Horn, etc.. 2. Transmission to transmission selenoid from Kickdown switch, and Governor on the Tranny all the way to the Carburator (It's a Fluid Drive). 3. Under the Dash from Heater to clock to Instrument Panel, 4. Rear of Vehicle, Brake Lights and the Directionals etc.. I got mine from Rhode Island Wiring in stages to install with their directions in each package. So your directions should cover installing. Under the Dash is the real complicated/tight as he - double hockey sticks area to tackle, the rest is basically a cake walk. You should have a service manual with a wiring diagram, because it is easy to cross a wire and get bum-fuzzled if you're an electrical idiot like me. I had my directionals wired such that the right was on in the front while the left was on in the back (I wired my Directional Junction Block wrong on my inner front fender) L.O.L. Pay attention because it's easy to screw up. Use lots of Star Washers everywhere to insure proper grounds. Test everything as you go. So if somethings not right you can back up and punt. Good Luck! Why did you wait so long? We ain't getting any younger. Under the Dash work is best tackled with the front seat out and a pillow laying down. Remember don't drink beer upside down. Tom

I used to put Grease on them (Copper Gaskets). That was back in the 70's on old Flat Heads with Cast Iron Heads. It worked fine.

Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year, or: Happy Holidays or: Holihappy Days or: Happy Motoring! Staysober! L.O.L.

Gents, I don't want to hijack this thread, however, I have a question. If one wanted to just change the Rubber Body Mounts at the dozen or so places the Body attaches to the frame, would the method be similar? I mean at that point your only lifting the body up off the frame an inch or two right? Then, I ask what other things need disconnecting to do these Rubber Body Mounts? Fuel Line? Wiring harness from the Transmission (If its a Fluid Drive)? Thanks for the information ahead of time! Tom