Tom Skinner

Yeah, I have an original Flasher $45 one Not Chinese. I try to buy the original stuff, not the cheap knock off replacements.

Thanks! Young Ed and Plymouth Adams for the good advice!

Great News! I went to the front directional light (disconnected it) Bulb looked good. I changed the Bulb anyhow 1158, but then I fidgeted with the socket. I bent the spring was all the way in and no tension so I pulled it apart some to create some spring tension in the socket, and cleaned the connection ends with a brass brush. re-assembled it and now everything works as it should inside and out. It must have been a crushed spring or dirty connection in the front right directional socket. I have found with these 6 Volt systems these Cars can be very finicky if they are not grounded just right at the body or sockets aren't positioned just right etc. So if anyone else has this problem out there, this is a possible cure. Hell after all these years of driving this way I won't know how to act with all my lights working LOL.

Gents, I have a question which may or may not sound intelligent to be asking. I have had a couple of 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedans that have only one (right Side top of dash) light (directional indicator light). When the Left Directional (Blinker) is on the one Light will blink, however, when I have the Right Blinker on it does not blink (at the Dash) but does at front and rear directional lights. When the right blinker is on the directional lights at the front and rear of the car blink properly but it does not blink at the dash indicator light. This is how it has been for 42 years with 2 1948 Chrysler Royal Sedans. Now for my question (I have changed out my Directional Switch with no change) is there a fuse in the line burnt or is this just another Chrysler thing that has always been, and shall always be? I have the wiring diagrahm and as I have said everything is wired up right and everything is blinking correctly outside the car, but no indicator on the dash turning right. I will look for a fuse or bad ground but this may be a standard Glitch of Chrysler years gone by. What is the general opinion on this out here in the forum? Thanks for any input. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

I cruise between 55-60. I have had her up to 70. Stay in the right Lane on Interstates. Don't give a damn what people behind me want/think. They aren't in my world anymore anyhow, they are just knee jerk re-actioning down the road stressed out. I tend to take older country roads where 45-55 is acceptable, but as mentioned above the pineapple heads abound and crawl up behind you expecting you to floor it. That ain't gonna happen. They usually back off if you slow down some. Then I resume the speed limit. Driving on weekend seems to be the only way to go with the older cars now. Gone is good old 55 mph Law when we could keep up to traffic in the right lane like back in the 70's.(enacted law after the 74 Oil Embargo and maintained until the early 80's, even though it was largely a scoff law).

If he checks it in the morning - it would be 7AM. L.M.A.O.

Bring #1 Cylinder to Top Dead Center (TDC). Check Rotor Position for #1 (About 7PM Position in Distributor) . Static Time it. No spark then is probably a broken wire somewhere or a bad Starter Coil.

Gents, I'm not trying to be a know-it-all or endorse any business' in particular - but here goes. Only Trust reliable Sources like DVAP (Desert Valley Auto Parts) if you like junk yards, or Andy Bernbaums, Antique Auto Cellar, or Robert's if you like Vintage Parts Houses, or Ebay (where sales and PayPal are monitored as well as feedback). Only then will you have some sort of assurance of accountability from reliable businesses or sources. Singular lone wolf parts guys, that can't provide upfront phone numbers, addresses, and pictures of their parts just can't be trusted. For them to prey on us Forum Guys is understandable, however, now that we are warned, they should not have any foot hold anymore. It is a pity that no one seems to be able to trust individuals anymore. If they are well known Forum Members with a respectable post history, then, I could trust them. Anybody else gets to "talk to the hand" as Old Arnold Schwrzenegger would say in the Terminator movies. Thanks for the heads up. Tom

Marc, My Chrysler Royal (1948) Sedan has basically 4 Harnesses. 1. Engine area (Going through Firewall) This includes Ignition wires, Headlights, Directionals,Generator, and Starter, Horn, etc.. 2. Transmission to transmission selenoid from Kickdown switch, and Governor on the Tranny all the way to the Carburator (It's a Fluid Drive). 3. Under the Dash from Heater to clock to Instrument Panel, 4. Rear of Vehicle, Brake Lights and the Directionals etc.. I got mine from Rhode Island Wiring in stages to install with their directions in each package. So your directions should cover installing. Under the Dash is the real complicated/tight as he - double hockey sticks area to tackle, the rest is basically a cake walk. You should have a service manual with a wiring diagram, because it is easy to cross a wire and get bum-fuzzled if you're an electrical idiot like me. I had my directionals wired such that the right was on in the front while the left was on in the back (I wired my Directional Junction Block wrong on my inner front fender) L.O.L. Pay attention because it's easy to screw up. Use lots of Star Washers everywhere to insure proper grounds. Test everything as you go. So if somethings not right you can back up and punt. Good Luck! Why did you wait so long? We ain't getting any younger. Under the Dash work is best tackled with the front seat out and a pillow laying down. Remember don't drink beer upside down. Tom

I used to put Grease on them (Copper Gaskets). That was back in the 70's on old Flat Heads with Cast Iron Heads. It worked fine.

Merry Christmas, and a Happy New Year, or: Happy Holidays or: Holihappy Days or: Happy Motoring! Staysober! L.O.L.

Gents, I don't want to hijack this thread, however, I have a question. If one wanted to just change the Rubber Body Mounts at the dozen or so places the Body attaches to the frame, would the method be similar? I mean at that point your only lifting the body up off the frame an inch or two right? Then, I ask what other things need disconnecting to do these Rubber Body Mounts? Fuel Line? Wiring harness from the Transmission (If its a Fluid Drive)? Thanks for the information ahead of time! Tom

I will take it to the Hardware Store. Thanks! Tom

Gents, Can anyone tell me if there is a rubber washer at the base of their Distributor as it is inserted? I have had my Distributor out to tune up my car before and have never seen one. On my first Chrysler I just tuned it up with the Distributor in the engine, because I was young and nimble enough to reach and see in the distributor - way back when. Anyhow I found a picture of an old Distributor on ebay (attached) and there appears to be a washer/gasket at the base of it. Please advise Thanks! Tom

It is for checking the vacumm advance it is described in this booklet

Gents I made this tester hook up and cannot upload a picture of it?? Tom

III

Rockin Rebel, I did mine last year when I was 57, and I'm in pretty good shape (or was then). If I were you I would get a strong helper. Unless of course you are in good as shape as The Arnold (Schwarzennegar). L.O.L. Those babies are in there and you will know what your up against once you get the Leaf Springs off. Don't forget to take the shocks off both sides (and either disconnect the rear flexible brake line or prop the rear end up so you don't just snap it off) when going in. I tried to do one side at a time and couldn't figure out why the spring on one side wouldn't come out until I figured out the whole axle assembly must drop down. Of course this went on for an hour or so (my first Rear Spring removal) its amazing how ignorant I am sometimes. It took me all day (In August - 90's out) and I thought I was going to fall down and go boom when I was done. L.O.L. Tom

Was his name Richard Cranium? L.O.L.

Thomba, You know unfortunate as it sounds Don is right. I have owned Old Chevrolets, Pontiacs, and Chryslers, the least valued are the Mopars from the 40's. They just get a poor rap. I go to car shows, and the same 3 years, and same 3 color 55,56, and 57 Chevy's command outrageous prices and there are 20 or 30 at a big show (rare - they are not) but in demand. Find a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker, Traveler, or Royal (rare - yes) in demand - no. An old timer told me once "all collectables are measured by The Bar Stool Rule" he went on to explain a bar stool has three legs - without one the stool will fall. With Collector Cars you have 1. Condition, 2. Rarity, 3. Demand. Those damned Chevy's don't stand up to this rule because they are not rare. they are freeking everywhere their demand provides their value. But take an old Mopar - It can be in excellent condition, be rare, and it hasn't got the demand, so the bar stool falls down. Why then do the same three Chevy's keep standing in outrageous values? The demand makes up for their rarity. Its like an old Large Cent Collection (1793-1857). Only 400 Extant Sets can be assembled (with All Die Marriages or Varieties) because they are so Rare. Why then can you buy 80-90% of them for say $100 apiece or less? Because there isn't even 100 or 200 individuals actively assembling a Set at any given time - anywhere even overseas. Rare? Hell yes - as rare as Hens Teeth. But affordable as hell (except for the dates 1793, 1803, 1821, and 1823). So the Damn Chevy's keep on pulling 30K - 40K and up to 100K and our Mopars keep slugging along at 10K and 20K. This brings to mind the adolecent saying "Life ain't fair". But At my age this means nothing anymore. I love my old 1948 Chysler Royal, I'll be leaving it to my Son some Day. So its monetary value means nothing to me. Many hours of maintaining it and driving it have paid me back in full. The advice to buy the best you can afford holds true also. At driver condition at the very least (with good Chrome). Just like in Coins (Large Cents) if I buy a crappy 1812 Cent and I see a better one to buy for my collection - now I have spent double on the same date buying it twice, instead of buying the best 1812 once for my collection. JMHO Tom

Wdoland, Don's right, the heat builds and the gas "boils" over in the Carb from the heat. Usually finding its way down to the Intake Manifold through the throttle shaft bushing or connectors to the dash pot etc. then down to your manifold to evaporate quickly and stink things up. This has been happening to me to some degree since 1973 when I bought my first 1948 Chrysler Royal but has gotten worse as gas octanes have risen. I have always put the hood up and ran a large fan over the front fender to cool my car down after a summer/hot day drive. As far back as I can remember there has always been a faint smell of gas after taking a ride, however, I think the newer gas "octanes" and "addatives" make for a more volatile fuel, that newer engines with fuel injection require. Remember back in the day fuel was like 77 or 78 Leaded Octane, not 87, 89, or 93 Un-Leaded Octane with ethanol additives. That isn't to say you don't have another possible leak that requires careful inspection to find and repair. Tom

Bingster, I believe if you type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay, you will find what you need. Tom

Hobby Lobby is a good source for the Art Materials. This is by and large far and away the cheapest method of wood grain method. At your own pace - supplies are less than $100 for the whole interior. As for the AACA Rich I can supply you with the name of the gentlemen in the Charlotte Chapter that told me that I would need to work at least 6 days a year at their Car Shows, as a pre-requisite for joining. Also I would like to mention I attended two of their dinners (which I paid for) at two separate meetings, I was told the same as above. In another words it was re-iterated to me. Listen I'm sure they are a strong good group of people, but they are not responsible for building Andy Bernbaum's business or anybody else' . Look I'm guessing your a member, so fine, I just felt like I didn't belong there after two meetings. I guess I am a Lone Wolf kind of guy. I am a doer not a talker, and most everyone there at the meeting seemed to me like they could talk the horns right off of a Billy Goat's head. Not my kind of people. So don't take my description of the AACA seriously. Thanks. Tom

On wood graining. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal with Walnut Burl Grain. I started with a spray beige lacquer spray base coat. Once Dry. I used a short Fat Haired Oil Brush with Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber Mixed unevenly with a tiny bit of Linseed Oil to swirl into the trim piece until I developed a pattern that mimicked what was on the other original pieces I observed while doing so. Doing this with the parts removed is the best results. Once happy with my "masterpiece" I let it dry for a week or two (As Oil Paints dry very slow). I then got some Clear Lacquer Seal Coat in a spray can, and proceeded to put about 12-15 coats lightly onto each piece I had done letting each coat dry thoroughly. The results are hard to differentiate from the original. It felt like I was a kid again with the smell of Linseed Oil in the air. It is to be noted that the original grain was probably laminated onto these pieces to begin with during manufacture, so your results may come close as can be to original inn looks, but not exactly the same in texture with your arm or fingers running over the finished piece. That is why 15-20 coats of clear lacquer sealant would be best. This method takes time so if your the type of guy that needs instant gratification - stay away from this method. The best part of this method is - if your not getting good results - wipe it off and start over as oil paints are so slow to dry. Using a comb (found at Lowes) for this purpose may aid in your desired pattern. Natural sponges help. I learned this method on You-Tube about 6-7 years ago. It must be borne in mind that practice makes perfect. That being in the right frame of mind - say several glasses of Crown Royal - will aid in excellent results. Good Luck. Tom