Tom Skinner

On wood graining. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal with Walnut Burl Grain. I started with a spray beige lacquer spray base coat. Once Dry. I used a short Fat Haired Oil Brush with Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber Mixed unevenly with a tiny bit of Linseed Oil to swirl into the trim piece until I developed a pattern that mimicked what was on the other original pieces I observed while doing so. Doing this with the parts removed is the best results. Once happy with my "masterpiece" I let it dry for a week or two (As Oil Paints dry very slow). I then got some Clear Lacquer Seal Coat in a spray can, and proceeded to put about 12-15 coats lightly onto each piece I had done letting each coat dry thoroughly. The results are hard to differentiate from the original. It felt like I was a kid again with the smell of Linseed Oil in the air. It is to be noted that the original grain was probably laminated onto these pieces to begin with during manufacture, so your results may come close as can be to original inn looks, but not exactly the same in texture with your arm or fingers running over the finished piece. That is why 15-20 coats of clear lacquer sealant would be best. This method takes time so if your the type of guy that needs instant gratification - stay away from this method. The best part of this method is - if your not getting good results - wipe it off and start over as oil paints are so slow to dry. Using a comb (found at Lowes) for this purpose may aid in your desired pattern. Natural sponges help. I learned this method on You-Tube about 6-7 years ago. It must be borne in mind that practice makes perfect. That being in the right frame of mind - say several glasses of Crown Royal - will aid in excellent results. Good Luck. Tom

Wood Graining is easy. Just Practice first on scrap metal. You will get good at it soon enough. As for the AACA and their HPOF designations - Phuuuuwwweee. They want to treat you like your in the Cub Scouts anyway - with Points and Badges and Trophies. They tried to get me to join after they nit picked my car to death at a show, and told me I would have to work a minimum of 6 days a year at their Car Shows. My Car is, except for a fish eye (1 or 2) - perfect. The AACA is a joke. The thought for the day is posted on their bulletin boards and they all seem to be quite the bunch of subordinates you would expect to find in an organization such as that. I don't restore cars for some newbee car judge to hand me cheap tiny plastic Trophies. . That's for the Cub Scouts. L.O.L.

Keep Looking, I snaged one on ebay for $30 about a year ago

The Old Silver radiator Paint of Days gone By. Or: Bill Hirsh 396 Littleton Avenue Newark New Jersey PH:973-642-2404 A Can of Engine Paint good to 5,000 Degrees Pint Can is Plenty @ $18 He also sells Hogs Hair Carpeting, Head Liners, Wool Seat Cloth ETC. He used to sell Hub Cap Skins as well and Wheel Rings (Probably still does) Tom

Find a Dry Garage to rent.

Type in 1946 desoto junction block on ebay. There is one there at $24.95

I do not know of any other sources other than salvage yards. Tom

How about Orange for Halloween?

Try Vintage Power Wagons. www.vintagepowerwagons.com they may have them. Page 54 or 57 in their Brakes section on the 2011/2012 Catalog. Front axle and Rear Axle Brake Junction Box Tees Tom Huntersville NC

Puce Pink?

Tim, Sounds good. Does it get good gas mileage? L.O.L. Enjoy! Tom

Bright Taxi Cab Yellow Swimming Pool Blue Kelly Green Fire Engine Red It's your Car - anything goes.

Your still going to have rub with new shackle bushings. Believe it or not your tires are the wrong size (too wide) Check your spare (if original) that's what they should be. I had the 225/75R15 on my Chrysler (1948 Royal) when I bought it same exact problem. I bought 7.60/15 4- ply tires with a 5-1/4" wide tread. Those 225/75R15's your running are probably about 6-1/2" - 7" wide. New Shackle Bushings will not fix it. But they look like they need replacing as well. Tom

I was under the impression that Frank still worked there. I bought a 1948 Chrysler Royal Window Handle from them at frmmpr (ebay) Tuesday and The Ebay contact stated: with their phone number " ask for Frank or Mike?" if there where any questions about the listing. I received my Window Handle today (this afternoon). On a side story, I once emailed Frank with a question about making an offer on a part (I felt was overpriced), he sent back a reply: "Yes, I will accept an offer - but be gentle about it". So in the end Frank will be remembered by me as a Good Honest Mopar Man, willing to make a deal and on another note, his parts were always NOS or Original and always in Top Condition - to my knowledge he didn't sell second rate stuff. Rest in Peace Frank Mitchell. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

3/4" Treated Plywood is approaching $50 a Sheet around North Carolina now, (Lots of Home Building going on now). 4 Jack Stands at Harbor Freight are $52.(with a coupon). I would opt for the Jack Stands with my Floor Jack before I started putting 2 or 3 Pieces of 4 X 8 Plywood down anywhere. JMHO Even the 2 ton Floor Jack is only $89 at Harbor Freight. Thus Floor Jack with 4 Stands = $141 3 Pcs 3/4 Treated Plywood = $150 The first car is still just sitting parked on the Plywood with no elevation at $150 The second car is up on 4 Jack Stands with an additional Floor Jack placed strategical in a just in case manner. I would feel safer under the second car with 4,000 LBS of Steel over my carcass. Although my wife has plenty of Life Insurance on me - so I imagine it wouldn't much matter to her either way. LOL

It's usually the ground 9 times out of 10

LMAO

Ralph, I too don't want to sound like an authority. It may be the Carb. (Clogged needle and seat or otherwise worn Idle Mixture needle (Check point of needle) it should be relatively pointy not rounded) Question: have you checked the tension on the points after setting them? They should be about 18-19 oz (Use a small had held scale) I have set mine to loose and sometimes this causes sluggish performance @ 50mph. Also Compression is Good if consistently across the Cylinders (example all about 90 Lbs, or 95 Lbs) above 100 is desirable. I have had an old Chrysler back in the day that had 85 - 95 LBS that was worn (Rings) that ran fine because the Cylinders didn't differ by more than 10 LBS from one another. These old Flat Heads can flood fast with dirty/worn needle and seats etc. The tolerances where not as big a deal then and with wear these beasts like to burn gas and oil (as well as leak them) LOL Good Luck again! Tom

Compression Test First. Gap Plugs. Set Points next. Check Dwell. Set Timing.Check Vacumn - set to highest reading in inches - say 18"-21"(You need a steady hand here or something is wrong such as a vacumn leak etc). Messing with the Carb continually isn't getting you anywhere. If the Idle Mixture Needle is Dull at the point - It don't matter which way you turn it - fuel is just dumping into the engine with no venturi effect whatsoever. If you need help from an older mechanic GET IT. All this advice is just running you in circles. Use the proper proceedure order above. I would think your timing is off - thus the missing and sooty plugs (It is most likely Retarded) Setting the timing about 4-7 Degrees in advance to allow for 87% octane gas. Gas used to be 75 - 78% octane back in the 40's So setting it by the book really doesn't get it anymore. Good Luck. Tom

Neil, Good Idea. Screw it both ends. LOL That would stop all the WA WA WA's. Tom

James, Good Luck, stay with it, you have a really nice ride there. Tom

Bob, thanks for posting above Service Booklet Pages. I would have, however, since they changed this site, I can't figure out how to post pictures Tom

Hold the pedal to the floor, then crank it. Problem solved. Why make a mountain out of a mole hill? Oh that's right - that's what the "new" generation does - Groovy man.

NAPA 30wt Non-Detergent - also a shot of ZDDP Additive - makes it run like a sewing machine (251cu.in. Flathead)

Mix the ISO22 and ISO32 half and half Right Sebolt or whatever - IT AIN'T ROCKET SCIENCE