Tom Skinner

I will take it to the Hardware Store. Thanks! Tom

Gents, Can anyone tell me if there is a rubber washer at the base of their Distributor as it is inserted? I have had my Distributor out to tune up my car before and have never seen one. On my first Chrysler I just tuned it up with the Distributor in the engine, because I was young and nimble enough to reach and see in the distributor - way back when. Anyhow I found a picture of an old Distributor on ebay (attached) and there appears to be a washer/gasket at the base of it. Please advise Thanks! Tom

It is for checking the vacumm advance it is described in this booklet

Gents I made this tester hook up and cannot upload a picture of it?? Tom

III

Rockin Rebel, I did mine last year when I was 57, and I'm in pretty good shape (or was then). If I were you I would get a strong helper. Unless of course you are in good as shape as The Arnold (Schwarzennegar). L.O.L. Those babies are in there and you will know what your up against once you get the Leaf Springs off. Don't forget to take the shocks off both sides (and either disconnect the rear flexible brake line or prop the rear end up so you don't just snap it off) when going in. I tried to do one side at a time and couldn't figure out why the spring on one side wouldn't come out until I figured out the whole axle assembly must drop down. Of course this went on for an hour or so (my first Rear Spring removal) its amazing how ignorant I am sometimes. It took me all day (In August - 90's out) and I thought I was going to fall down and go boom when I was done. L.O.L. Tom

Was his name Richard Cranium? L.O.L.

Thomba, You know unfortunate as it sounds Don is right. I have owned Old Chevrolets, Pontiacs, and Chryslers, the least valued are the Mopars from the 40's. They just get a poor rap. I go to car shows, and the same 3 years, and same 3 color 55,56, and 57 Chevy's command outrageous prices and there are 20 or 30 at a big show (rare - they are not) but in demand. Find a 1948 Chrysler New Yorker, Traveler, or Royal (rare - yes) in demand - no. An old timer told me once "all collectables are measured by The Bar Stool Rule" he went on to explain a bar stool has three legs - without one the stool will fall. With Collector Cars you have 1. Condition, 2. Rarity, 3. Demand. Those damned Chevy's don't stand up to this rule because they are not rare. they are freeking everywhere their demand provides their value. But take an old Mopar - It can be in excellent condition, be rare, and it hasn't got the demand, so the bar stool falls down. Why then do the same three Chevy's keep standing in outrageous values? The demand makes up for their rarity. Its like an old Large Cent Collection (1793-1857). Only 400 Extant Sets can be assembled (with All Die Marriages or Varieties) because they are so Rare. Why then can you buy 80-90% of them for say $100 apiece or less? Because there isn't even 100 or 200 individuals actively assembling a Set at any given time - anywhere even overseas. Rare? Hell yes - as rare as Hens Teeth. But affordable as hell (except for the dates 1793, 1803, 1821, and 1823). So the Damn Chevy's keep on pulling 30K - 40K and up to 100K and our Mopars keep slugging along at 10K and 20K. This brings to mind the adolecent saying "Life ain't fair". But At my age this means nothing anymore. I love my old 1948 Chysler Royal, I'll be leaving it to my Son some Day. So its monetary value means nothing to me. Many hours of maintaining it and driving it have paid me back in full. The advice to buy the best you can afford holds true also. At driver condition at the very least (with good Chrome). Just like in Coins (Large Cents) if I buy a crappy 1812 Cent and I see a better one to buy for my collection - now I have spent double on the same date buying it twice, instead of buying the best 1812 once for my collection. JMHO Tom

Wdoland, Don's right, the heat builds and the gas "boils" over in the Carb from the heat. Usually finding its way down to the Intake Manifold through the throttle shaft bushing or connectors to the dash pot etc. then down to your manifold to evaporate quickly and stink things up. This has been happening to me to some degree since 1973 when I bought my first 1948 Chrysler Royal but has gotten worse as gas octanes have risen. I have always put the hood up and ran a large fan over the front fender to cool my car down after a summer/hot day drive. As far back as I can remember there has always been a faint smell of gas after taking a ride, however, I think the newer gas "octanes" and "addatives" make for a more volatile fuel, that newer engines with fuel injection require. Remember back in the day fuel was like 77 or 78 Leaded Octane, not 87, 89, or 93 Un-Leaded Octane with ethanol additives. That isn't to say you don't have another possible leak that requires careful inspection to find and repair. Tom

Bingster, I believe if you type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay, you will find what you need. Tom

Hobby Lobby is a good source for the Art Materials. This is by and large far and away the cheapest method of wood grain method. At your own pace - supplies are less than $100 for the whole interior. As for the AACA Rich I can supply you with the name of the gentlemen in the Charlotte Chapter that told me that I would need to work at least 6 days a year at their Car Shows, as a pre-requisite for joining. Also I would like to mention I attended two of their dinners (which I paid for) at two separate meetings, I was told the same as above. In another words it was re-iterated to me. Listen I'm sure they are a strong good group of people, but they are not responsible for building Andy Bernbaum's business or anybody else' . Look I'm guessing your a member, so fine, I just felt like I didn't belong there after two meetings. I guess I am a Lone Wolf kind of guy. I am a doer not a talker, and most everyone there at the meeting seemed to me like they could talk the horns right off of a Billy Goat's head. Not my kind of people. So don't take my description of the AACA seriously. Thanks. Tom

On wood graining. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal with Walnut Burl Grain. I started with a spray beige lacquer spray base coat. Once Dry. I used a short Fat Haired Oil Brush with Burnt Sienna and Burnt Umber Mixed unevenly with a tiny bit of Linseed Oil to swirl into the trim piece until I developed a pattern that mimicked what was on the other original pieces I observed while doing so. Doing this with the parts removed is the best results. Once happy with my "masterpiece" I let it dry for a week or two (As Oil Paints dry very slow). I then got some Clear Lacquer Seal Coat in a spray can, and proceeded to put about 12-15 coats lightly onto each piece I had done letting each coat dry thoroughly. The results are hard to differentiate from the original. It felt like I was a kid again with the smell of Linseed Oil in the air. It is to be noted that the original grain was probably laminated onto these pieces to begin with during manufacture, so your results may come close as can be to original inn looks, but not exactly the same in texture with your arm or fingers running over the finished piece. That is why 15-20 coats of clear lacquer sealant would be best. This method takes time so if your the type of guy that needs instant gratification - stay away from this method. The best part of this method is - if your not getting good results - wipe it off and start over as oil paints are so slow to dry. Using a comb (found at Lowes) for this purpose may aid in your desired pattern. Natural sponges help. I learned this method on You-Tube about 6-7 years ago. It must be borne in mind that practice makes perfect. That being in the right frame of mind - say several glasses of Crown Royal - will aid in excellent results. Good Luck. Tom

Wood Graining is easy. Just Practice first on scrap metal. You will get good at it soon enough. As for the AACA and their HPOF designations - Phuuuuwwweee. They want to treat you like your in the Cub Scouts anyway - with Points and Badges and Trophies. They tried to get me to join after they nit picked my car to death at a show, and told me I would have to work a minimum of 6 days a year at their Car Shows. My Car is, except for a fish eye (1 or 2) - perfect. The AACA is a joke. The thought for the day is posted on their bulletin boards and they all seem to be quite the bunch of subordinates you would expect to find in an organization such as that. I don't restore cars for some newbee car judge to hand me cheap tiny plastic Trophies. . That's for the Cub Scouts. L.O.L.

Keep Looking, I snaged one on ebay for $30 about a year ago

The Old Silver radiator Paint of Days gone By. Or: Bill Hirsh 396 Littleton Avenue Newark New Jersey PH:973-642-2404 A Can of Engine Paint good to 5,000 Degrees Pint Can is Plenty @ $18 He also sells Hogs Hair Carpeting, Head Liners, Wool Seat Cloth ETC. He used to sell Hub Cap Skins as well and Wheel Rings (Probably still does) Tom

Find a Dry Garage to rent.

Type in 1946 desoto junction block on ebay. There is one there at $24.95

I do not know of any other sources other than salvage yards. Tom

How about Orange for Halloween?

Try Vintage Power Wagons. www.vintagepowerwagons.com they may have them. Page 54 or 57 in their Brakes section on the 2011/2012 Catalog. Front axle and Rear Axle Brake Junction Box Tees Tom Huntersville NC

Puce Pink?

Tim, Sounds good. Does it get good gas mileage? L.O.L. Enjoy! Tom

Bright Taxi Cab Yellow Swimming Pool Blue Kelly Green Fire Engine Red It's your Car - anything goes.

Your still going to have rub with new shackle bushings. Believe it or not your tires are the wrong size (too wide) Check your spare (if original) that's what they should be. I had the 225/75R15 on my Chrysler (1948 Royal) when I bought it same exact problem. I bought 7.60/15 4- ply tires with a 5-1/4" wide tread. Those 225/75R15's your running are probably about 6-1/2" - 7" wide. New Shackle Bushings will not fix it. But they look like they need replacing as well. Tom