Tom Skinner

Hey fellows gas is small potatoes. Just whip out a C Note and fill er up - no more issues. Then Ride.

Andy Bernbaum (617)244-1118 or (800)457-1250

Your engine is probably a 265 cu. in. same size Gasket Set

Type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay and a full engine gasket set for a 251 25" Flat Head/LHead is $104. Of course S&H may make it more to Down Under. Tom

George, I bought Universal Joints from them a few years ago. Tough to find with the Bat Wing Tabs on them. (1948 Chrysler Royal) Good fast service - but, they are proud of their parts (pricewise). They have knowledgable service people on the phone. Tom

If one go's to Google and types in Ethyl Free Gasoline Stations for NC (choose your own state) then one can find a list of these stations nearest to your house. Go then and buy a full tank of this "real" gas again and see for yourselves that there is a difference. Your vehicle will start and run right again. It costs a tad more (25cents/gal) more, however, you will also notice a better mpg average along with the responsive acceleration and smoother motoring. I know some of you will nay say this but until you try it you can't believe it. I don't know what kind of corn filler they are dumping in our fuel but it is just junk filler to make a fast buck - make no mistake about that. Go then try this out and come back with a response/result. One thing I noticed is I went farther on a tank of gas somewhere around 15-20% farther along with just wanting to gun it sometimes along the way and the egine responded to my pedal when I leaned on it. Its like the days of old again. Roll down your windows and listen to the engine purr. There really is a difference.

Big John, I'm not sure about the 53 Windsor but my 48 Royal "Bench Seat" just bumps down into the cushioned surround it sort of is a tight thump it into place motion. The rear of the seat tucks down and in first - then the front half just drops/thumps down into place. Tom

Dodgew, Sorry bout dat I'm used to everyone throwing a 350 into everything nowadays. Mopar or no Car!!!! Tom

Just get your 350 Cheby manual out you'll be OK:D

Ed, I found that a thin piece of rubber or any gasket material will cut out and work just fine inbetween the carb horn lip and filter. I don't remember where I found some thin rubber material but it was just laying around and was fine. It was about 1/16" thick and I cut 2 (one extra) with regular scissors. Tom

Looks like your knuckles were bleeding and some got on the block. I wouldn't get bent out of shape about this unless it appears to worsen. Tom

Leave the windows down on dry sunny days. As Grandpa used to say - "take a ride on the highway to blow off the stink". L.O.L. Tom

The 592 is a generic Champion Plug No. for Champion RJ12C . Thats probably your Champion Plug. Tom

Gents, A Fellow by the name of Carlos just asked about this and I had just answered him and saw this thread is alive again. I said I thought the brass nipple for the top of the block (over 6th cylinder) was 3/8", however, I may be wrong on the size. Just bring the plug to a good Hardware store and match it up. Tom

Michael, Nice! I bet the reserve sits up around 50K though, and probably that is justifiable. I really don't know the going rate for one of these but that seems about right. Tom

Air Filter - Soak in Kerosene, Thinner, Diesel, etc. - Do Not Set on Fire! Air Breather can be soaked in Kerosene then burnt clean.

Ralph, When its done can you put polymil (vapor barrier) on the ground and pour say 4" of concrete slab in there to keep everything high and dry so to speak? Tom

I thought Lebaron Bonney was pretty much Chebby & Furd stuff. Sometimes Packard but I doubt it. Try Bill Hirsh, 396 Littleton Avenue, Newark New Jersey, 07103 Phone: (973)642-2404. Bill Will send you samples to match you up. By the way Littleton Avenue is nearby Mechanic Street in Newark NJ. For those of you that don't know, that is where Walter Chrysler housed Fred Zeder, Carl Breer, and Owen Skeleton along with 28 other Engineers in 1924 to develope and test his Chrysler Six from his Elizabeth NJ Plant to try to get a Chrysler Car going. They tested the car along the Orange Mountains in South Orange NJ and Eagle Rock Avenue, West Orange, NJ to show its power and design. I grew up there, and I can attest to the fact that (Eagle Rock) is one hella of a hill. Anyway Bill has your Fabrics and Carpets (Hogs Hair) and all. He is a little proud of his products though and rightfully so. Call him. Lebaron Bonney is for other foriegn Cars - not Chrysler Products. Tom

It dat coil no good man.

I'd rather spend $1,300 on Beer L.O.L. Beer hier, Beer hier, oder ich fall um, Beer hier beer hier oder ich fall um. Tom

The Car Quest in my town has an older guy named Jim that teaches the younger guy and they have the old Mopar Books. He (the kid) is learning. The Older NAPA stores in my area also are in the "Know" of older Part Numbers etc.. The kids will learn when given the chance, just as we did 40 years ago. "All we are saying is give kids (peace) a chance" - John Lennon. Make those little buzzards find those parts - inspire them - make them think. Take them away from their Computers for a spell - bring them a Parts Number. Books teach research. God help us old folks to have the patience to teach these young fellows the way. Stay with them and inspire them to find your part - be patient with them - it works! Tom

Karl, Welcome to the forum. You have a 1948. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal. Is your 48 a Plymouth, Dodge, or a Chrysler. Is it a 250.6 cu in 6 cylinder? Is it a 230 cu. in. Plymouth 6 cylinder, or a 218 cu. in.? Well anyway I hope I'm helping narrow it down. By the way you posted fine and in the right place for great information. Tom

ptwothree has it right, separate the 2 manifolds and remove the intake first. Then if your lucky like me rock that baby bake and forth for three hours with a four foot wrecking bar and wood shims, or until you just about have a heart attack, and it will come off. Use lots of long Wood Shims to coax it out with a wood mallet so as not to crack anything:D Tom

Maybe that is Clutch Judder - not knocking? Does it occur at particular speeds? Say 15-25mph or 25-35mph? Judder is slippage in Old School terms. The removal of the Clutch Cover should reveal the culprit. Tom

I think Don has a good point, because I have always had to "Go Around" several times (2-3) Bleeding the Brakes to get a firm/high Pedal. I think I will try it backwards - nearest to furthest next time I Bleed the Brakes. Tom