Tom Skinner

Niel, Thanks will do. I have been wire brushing all threaded studs and nuts and spraying them with penetrating oil, they look like they will come off pretty easily - famous last words ha. I enlisted a buddy to help next Saturday as I don't think my shocks will be here by this Saturday. I'm going to continue to keep them soaked with PB Blaster until then. Thanks again! Oh, my buddy said he'll work the radio in your absence L.O.L. Tom

Niel, Thanks! I will wire brush and spray them well for several days as my shocks are coming from CA and I'm in NC so it will be a few days of spraying penetrant oil on the threads. My car is in pretty good shape (underside) rustwise so hopefully everything will turn well without blasting that radio to loud. I usually listen to old 40's music but in this case I may go to loud 70's Rock so if I slip and bust a knuckle the neighbors won't hear my words. Thanks again! Tom

Neil, Sounds like I'm in for another wrestling match - much like changing out manifold gaskets was. I think I'll try your method - spring removed that is. Thanks for sound advice, however I don't quite get what you'all mean by chasing the threads on the C Clamps. Will not the nuts just come off as I turn them? Tom

Thanks for the imput! Anymore opinions?

Gents, I just purchased the Eye Bushings and Shackle Kits fo the rear springs on my 1948 Chrysler. The service manual shows removing the shocks first then taking the C clamps off the spring then removing the shackle at the back/rear of the spring, and finally removing the front silencer/eye bushing. An old mechanic friend says that hooey, not to take the C clamp off, but remove the sway bar and let the axle drop enough to relax the spring then remove the rear shackle, front silencer/eye bushing. What he said is if you remove the C clamp you may never line it back up correctly and it would rack/track wrong down the road, that the secret to changing shackles and silencers was to get the spring to relax in the right position so as to replace everything without messing with the C clamps. Please share your opinions. Thanks in advance! Tom Huntersville NC

Robert Smith, If its spraying oil its probably coming out of the timing Chain Gasket up front. Back by the rear seal it would just drip back off into the road. Check for the origin of the leak. I have changed rear seals on 251 cu. in. Flat Heads with the Engine in, however, having said that, there is much nashing of the teeth that goes along with removing and installing the top half of the rear seal. It will take the better part of a Day (8 hrs) what with cleaning the oil pan up Etc, etc, etc. Tom

Scotty, I'm sure if you call the guys I listed with your engine size etc. and question them as to which way the arm comes off the back of the pump (straight, down, up) they will give you the correct answer. They are there to help make a satisfied customer - not to rip you off. Gary at Roberts, Chris at Bernbaums, and not knowing any one person at Vintage Power Wagons, I can say these guys know what they are talking about/selling and want to help out. After all they need return/our business, how many people are going to be asking them for parts for our cars (a finite number) need more parts down the road (no pun intended). Therefore I would pick one to trust and ask questions and go from there. Besides if Ol Andy were still there - even he would be helpful even if a little gruff (he was known for that by some people)over the phone. Its important to connect with a supplier you feel conforatable with, you will probably need more stuff/parts again. Tom

Don't give up untill you try: Roberts Motor Parts: (978) 363-5407 Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts: (617) 244-1118 Vintage Power Wagons: (641) 472-4665 Go to the Imperial Website there are more listings Everyone on Ebay thinks they should get double what these guys charge. Tom

Jim, About 3 months ago I saw full cans of that stuff going for around $90 a can. Caveat, however, to the Shipper - Ebay doesn't want full vessels being shipped of petroleum based products. Solution - sell em locally at a car show, or empty them into another vessel and sell the cans empty at around $40 a can (I have seen the empties go for that much on ebay also) I believe you can check with ebay - they do not allow full cans of that stuff to be shipped under their aegis (sponsorship). I do see from time to time 3 in one oil cans full sell on ebay though??? I really don't know where they draw the line. I guess I'm saying check with them before listing. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

They had (Chrysler) training records and films back in the day. I would think they were 78rpms back in the 40's though, but I am not sure. If you go to www.imperialclub.com, then click on imperials by year, then click on the year your interested in (say 1948), then click on imperial service conferences at the right hand box, a drop down box list hem all, you can download them all for free. The videos with the sound tracks, the booklets are all available for free. I'm sure they would look good on someone's wall as well. I would think ebay is your best bet if your looking for a return on your money. Most of us in this Forum share our information for free. Good luck on re-sell should you go that route. I'm sure there are collectors out there that would buy them. It would seem to me that they would be rare to come across.

Wooooo hoooo here we go again. Hey guys - go pour a drink. Chill. I like Crown Royal Reserve straight up in a heavy tumbler. A Chesterfield cigarette helps it taste better - smooth - full tasting - enjoyable - thats life. We are just here to help people, God Bless us everyone. I think the World of Don, and Rusty, two of the best guys we have on this Forum, and I think the rest of us do too. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina you'all come down and visit sometime.

All good advice. Some Head Bolts Enter the Water Jacket take note and use Silicon Sealant. Another thing Some Exhaust Manifold Studs enter the Water Jacket. Check them first befor taking the head off, you may have a long Stud let loose outta the jacket leaking anti-freeze and not a blown head gasket????

Hey fellows gas is small potatoes. Just whip out a C Note and fill er up - no more issues. Then Ride.

Andy Bernbaum (617)244-1118 or (800)457-1250

Your engine is probably a 265 cu. in. same size Gasket Set

Type in 1948 Chrysler on ebay and a full engine gasket set for a 251 25" Flat Head/LHead is $104. Of course S&H may make it more to Down Under. Tom

George, I bought Universal Joints from them a few years ago. Tough to find with the Bat Wing Tabs on them. (1948 Chrysler Royal) Good fast service - but, they are proud of their parts (pricewise). They have knowledgable service people on the phone. Tom

If one go's to Google and types in Ethyl Free Gasoline Stations for NC (choose your own state) then one can find a list of these stations nearest to your house. Go then and buy a full tank of this "real" gas again and see for yourselves that there is a difference. Your vehicle will start and run right again. It costs a tad more (25cents/gal) more, however, you will also notice a better mpg average along with the responsive acceleration and smoother motoring. I know some of you will nay say this but until you try it you can't believe it. I don't know what kind of corn filler they are dumping in our fuel but it is just junk filler to make a fast buck - make no mistake about that. Go then try this out and come back with a response/result. One thing I noticed is I went farther on a tank of gas somewhere around 15-20% farther along with just wanting to gun it sometimes along the way and the egine responded to my pedal when I leaned on it. Its like the days of old again. Roll down your windows and listen to the engine purr. There really is a difference.

Big John, I'm not sure about the 53 Windsor but my 48 Royal "Bench Seat" just bumps down into the cushioned surround it sort of is a tight thump it into place motion. The rear of the seat tucks down and in first - then the front half just drops/thumps down into place. Tom

Dodgew, Sorry bout dat I'm used to everyone throwing a 350 into everything nowadays. Mopar or no Car!!!! Tom

Just get your 350 Cheby manual out you'll be OK:D

Ed, I found that a thin piece of rubber or any gasket material will cut out and work just fine inbetween the carb horn lip and filter. I don't remember where I found some thin rubber material but it was just laying around and was fine. It was about 1/16" thick and I cut 2 (one extra) with regular scissors. Tom

Looks like your knuckles were bleeding and some got on the block. I wouldn't get bent out of shape about this unless it appears to worsen. Tom

Leave the windows down on dry sunny days. As Grandpa used to say - "take a ride on the highway to blow off the stink". L.O.L. Tom

The 592 is a generic Champion Plug No. for Champion RJ12C . Thats probably your Champion Plug. Tom