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My Project Cars



Found 19 results

  1. Hi recently picked up a 1947 Dodge Custom Sedan. I am new to this world so bare with me. It has an flathead 6 motor which I believe would be the d24? Car was running fine, but ran into an issue with the fuel pump. Wasn’t getting fuel to the pump, replaced with fp from Andy Bernbaum. Now I am getting fuel through the system, and the car is running. Drove around the neighborhood and it is now sputtering and stalling. (This wasn’t happening previously.) Looking for some pointers on this issue (possibly an air leak from installing the new fp?) Also looking for any resources for more knowledge on these vehicles.
  2. my crossmember is rusted out near lower control arm mounting bolts...where to cut ..both frames??Dakota is 1990...1947 dodge business coupe
  3. Howdy, Newbie here! I have a 251cid Dodge engine (T120-77962) in my 1.5 ton truck that has a blown out piston and I did not want to put money into rebuilding it since it's a truck used to just drive around the farm for fun. My question is, will a 230cid Dodge engine (D42-211153) from either 1951 or 1952 be a viable replacement to bolt up to my existing set up? I found an engine nearby in excellent running condition and thought of just swapping mine out for this one. I think that I would have to move the motor mounts, but I don't know if the water pump, thermostat housing, generator or anything else would simply swap out from the 251 to the 230. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Kind regards, Roman
  4. I have a 48 Plymouth special deluxe and havent been able to get this motor to start. It cranks and I put gas in the carb trying to get it to start. Though when I was working on it my stud that the positive cable bolts to got really hot. Wire isnt hot but just the bolt. I get the motor to crank and sounds like it wants to start because it does pop but cant get it to run.
  5. So today I got my first project car a 1947 Plymouth p-15 sedan if that’s right I’m 16 and this is all new
  6. I’ve replaced my 6 volt battery in my 1947 Plymouth two years ago and it appears I now need to replace it again. I’ve only had the Plymouth for 4 years, is this common or should I be buying a special 6 volt battery? thanks, chad
  7. Well, we have had six solid months of winter this year and I finally got my 1947 Crysler New Yorker out on the Road. Drove it to the office three times this week and it was running great. I went down to the parkade to go home and I put the key into the ignition but it would not rotate - it seems stuck fast and will not turn though the key can move in and out of the keyhole. Before I call the locksmith - can anyone please offer me some advice? In order to get it out of our buildings parkade and back home is there a safe way to Hotwire or bypass the ignition switch until I can get the keyhole replaced or repaired?
  8. The layout of the heater/defroster and vents of my recently acquired 1947 Chrysler New Yorker Sedan appears to be so basic that I am beginning to doubt whether this really is a New Yorker at all and it may be a re-badged long wheel base Windsor or some other model. I guess that I can check the serial number against some online references that I have browsed and I shall do so - but here are the things that I have noticed and maybe someone can tell me - New Yorker-or - not a New Yorker: A. I have the parts catalog and I have looked at the exploded view of the windshield defroster vents for a '47 New Yorker and I see that there is an uptake under the dash on both the left and right sides of the windshield. In my car there is only an uptake on the right side under the dash and by the time the air from the heater gets to the left side of the windshield - where you need it most- it is cool and blowing very weakly. From my inspection it looks like that is the way the car was built - it never had an uptake for the windshield defroster on the left side. New Yorker? or Not a New Yorker? B. My car only has one heater motor - the internal MOPAR heater on the passenger side under the dash and the defroster function is operated by a cable -pull choke-like switch attached to the heater and the heater function is achieved by opening up a small "door" on the heater. It is a very basic heater-defroster set up that one would find on a Plymouth (I used to have a '49 Plymouth). I have also noticed from pictures and diagrams that New Yorkers seem have an elaborate heater system with big vertical vents on the driver and passenger kick panels. It doesn't look like my car ever had them - or if it did they were removed and replaced expertly with period appropriate materials. Further, the "heat", "defrost" etc labeled knobs on the elaborate New Yorker dash are all fused and fixed in place and not connected to anything - I would have expected that these knobs would have been left out altogether if a 1947 New Yorker was offered new with such a basic heater/defroster set up as I have described above. New Yorker? - or-Not a New Yorker? Not trying to be overly fussy about this - I am very pleased with this car-if possible I was thinking of trying to restore the heater/defroster set up to conform with what options were originally available but I don't want to proceed upon the false premise that this really is a New Yorker if that is not the case or, in the alternative, if this basic heater/defroster set up is correct for a New Yorker then I will be happy to leave it as it is. If anybody has any information that can set me straight about this I would really appreciate it.
  9. Greetings everyone, I'm in the midst of an engine swap for my 1947 Plymouth and I'm needing some help with my starter. Upon close inspection, it seems like the bendix/screw shaft isn't fully retracting. As you can see in the picture, that's as far down as it will go, maybe a quarter inch. Should it freely move all the way down the screw? The annoying thing is I can't see what's preventing it from moving. Thanks in advance!
  10. Hello .. I am ricardo, I am from Porto - Portugal and I am restoring a dodge D25 special deluxe, 4 door ( year 1946)( I'm new in forum, so sorry for something i do wrong ) At the moment, i'm in the interior of the vehicle and I have doubts about front seat tracks( when I bought the vehicle the interior was burned and don't have the front seat tracks ). Please, someone can help me with front seat tracks ( photos ) for my car? If possible send me the seats ( complete and incomplete seats - Photos ). Best Regards for everybody Ricardo Silva
  11. might not be the place, but I am sure I will be told..lol I need the pan, below the trunk lid, by the rear bumper....thanks, I ship to; Wa98226
  12. Pulled out the radio and glove box yesterday to give a cleaning and test... clock I didn't test yet, can hear something rattling inside, small but still a rattle. Is there a trick to removing the front lens? Well, more so removing the small dial for setting the time? Looks like a slot head, with a small pin hole in the end. I'd like to get it open, cleaned, find the rattle and maybe oil it a little before powering it up for testing, in case something is seized and turning it on ruins it.
  13. I have a starter for my '47 Dodge, was in the trunk when I bought it (maybe that's why it didn't start). Anyways... looking to bolt it back up, and realized that there are no bolts. Anyone happen to know the size/thread I'd need? Thanks.
  14. I've decided to put a 318 V8 & automatic transmission in my '47' Desoto. Just wondering if anyone else has done this? Or if they have any pictures or advice. I've posted a few pics of my cars & the progress I've made. I am using the original Desoto frame with home made mounts, I also plan to use the original suspension, rear end, and as much of the original car as possible. I'm only interested in a stock 318 upgrade + auto trans & 12v electrical. Its not going to be a street rod, just something i can drive fairly reliably.
  15. Was fortunate enough to pick up a 47 d24 coupe but it has no starter, wondering if anyone knows what compatible starters would mate up with the 230/fluid drive trans that is in it. Its driving me nuts. Any help would be appreciated.
  16. I thought I'd find this in the tech archives, or under resources, but can only find that it takes 5qt/4.7 litres oil... but not what type. Nice sale on for a 5 litre jug of Quaker State (40% off) 5w30, 10w30 and 5w20... was going to buy a couple of the 5w30 for my Chev Impala, thought I'd grab some for the '47 Dodge as well, since the oil has been in there probably 20-30yrs. Just not sure what kind it takes. Figured when comes time to fire it up and see if it turns over, probably best to have new oil/filter.
  17. Anyone have some information on converting my 6V positive ground to a 12V positive ground? It would just make it easier to jump when the occasion arises. Thanks!
  18. Can anyone help? I lost the keys to my 47 and need to hot wire it (I guess). My initial thought is to cross the wires going into the keyed switch, then I can just use the push button start to turn over the engine. Will this work? On a similar note, I'd like to know if anyone has a key set they would like to sell. Thanks!
  19. Hey guys Wanted to post and say hello. My name is Joe, I go by Kreepy, I am a pinstriper (who isn't these days huh?), Painter, designer. I have loved cars for as long as I can remember. Although, I am a little green when it comes to working on cars and such. I recently purchased a '47 P-15 from a buddy of mine. Pretty good shape, a few major things and a ton of minor but an ambitious first project. I am lucky enough to have it at a shop with access to all the tools I need. I am really glad to have found this place and I am looking forward to the forum.
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