Tom Skinner

NAPA sells Speedy Sleeves at around $45 a pop. I have had a few Yard Sticks broken over me in the sixties by teachers that caught me talking when I wasn't supposed to be. L.O.L.

I think someone has suggested this but: Here goes again..... A Vacumn Gauge Test will usually tell if a Valve is sticking, weak spring etc. Usually if its not the coil or condenser spark plugs wires etc - in other words everything you have thrown money at, then its time for Vacumm Gauge Tests Compression Tests, Leak down tests, You will most certainly find the culprit then. Good Luck! I hope its not serious, or just live with it until you have to "go in" to fix something later down the road.

Donald Smith, I agree with Jersey Harold. Condenser. Or just call her Skippy. L.O.L. Tom

If memory serves me, the Black one is for normal - standard use. Beyond that it sound like your oil pressure is fine.

Donald, Your better with words than me. Well spoken! Tom

Panheadguy, I don't have a picture but yes, there is an insulator in that cup. It insulates the spring from the cup. As Shel bizzy said as you press the horn rim the ground causes the horn to sound. Tom

Is your RPM's above 450 475 at idle - if so no upshifty By the way you use a Tach and Dwell to figure that out. In this order: Set points, around .020 Check Tach and Dwell - Dwell at @38Degrees RPM's @ 450 Set Timing @ 2 AFTDC Use a Vacumn Gauge to set at highest reading @ 20" steady Check RPM again around 450 -475 at the highest Reset Vacumn again at highest setting. Same problem run diagnostics for transmission using a service manual Check Transmission Selenoid Relay for blown fuse - wires tight and all units grounded with star washers. etc. etc. etc One more thing a sticky linkage can screw up RPM's also - clean clean clean dem linkages Good Luck

Mopar Benny, Great explanation! These Car Shows today (at least in Charlotte, NC) Motor Speedway have about 50 each of the same three years of the same three colors Corvettes, Mustangs, and Chevy's from the fifties and sixties. Now don't get me wrong they are nice cars, however, when you see 150 to 200 cars of the same three years and the same three colors and all their owners standing there ogling over each others cars - its just plain weird. The oldies and goodies aren't there anymore. The REO's the Essex's the Pierce Arrows, The Airstreams and the Airflows. Gone. Unless its a WPC National Show or Carlisle Show - very very few Old Mopars. Every now and then there's a good one (smaller show) like at Salisbury NC (Mopar Show) in September etc. Most big Shows are half way across the USA and would cost an arm and a leg to go to with or without your car. In fact just getting together with my local Carolina Chrysler Club for a picnic at the lake is about all I'm interested in. Sometimes a Club Member will host a cookout in their back yard and we'll all ride over with a covered dish and eat good. It seems the smaller the show the better the show. The big Car Shows fill up with obnoxious drunks by mid afternoon, and they all act like they own your car and want to get in it or open doors to look inside etc. Charlotte Motor Speedway Shows are becoming a joke. I have to roll up my windows and lock my car just to go use a restroom. People seem to have lost their manners. Oh well I guess I'll stay home, mow, and drink a cold Barley Pop. Tom

Don, 10-4. I got you. God willing I'll be there! Tom

Don, Thank You! Tom

JipJob, I do not have an extra Cap laying around, as I'm sure Don Coatney does not also As a matter of fact, I have even tried contacting the guys that rebuild these Master Cylinders in the past, in an effort to obtain one. I did that because I was wanting one to do a gravity feed Brake Fluid replacement. Wanting an extra Cap to tap a hole through for Bleeding purposes. That's when I found that Kit at Harbor Freight that will do it without the extra Cap. Its got attachments wide enough to achieve a gravity Bleed. As I said before if your trying to "duplicate" a fitting or cap - take the one you have with you to a supply store and try to match it up. These Master Cylinders are getting rare as Hen's Teeth, and unless you luck up on one in a wrecking yard or go on ebay and ask the seller to pull one off a parts car - then no cigar. Remember there's always more than one way to skin a cat. We on the Forum are as helpful as we can be, but we're not an endless source of free parts. (I have not taken your Thread to mean that we are, I am merely pointing out that salient fact). They also sell these Master Cylinder's on ebay for around $170 a pop S&H not included. Good Luck! Tom

Woodie, I don't really know where to look for sure but if your trying to do a brake bleed procedure there is a Gravity Feed System for Sale at Harbor Freight that will sit above that wide Master Cylinder Cap Hole and Gravity feed the Master as you pump out the fluid at each wheel cylinder. The only way I know to get a new cap is take yours off and go to a good Mom and Pop Hardware Store, not a bubble wrap store they wouldn't have one. That Kit is about $29 but well worth it, because one guy can bleed the lines really good with one and get a firm brake pedal. I'll even go as far as to say a good plumbing wholesaler or maybe even a Lowe's Store (Plumbing Section) might have a Cap that works. There is also an Irrigation System Wholesaler you might try. Tom

Lowe's Sells Kerosene in 1 gallon cans. I have had several 1948 Chrysler Flat Head Sixes - 250.6 cu. in. engines since 1973.. They liked Fuel Pumps. About 1 every 5 years. Just an observation on my part.

First Rule of driving an old Chrysler - bring a spare fuel pump - they (flat Heads) tend to eat them. Second rule of driving an old Chrysler - refer to rule one. Save your old fuel pumps shells to rebuild the old Airtech #588 are no longer being made. Ebay salespeople asking heepum wampum for them now. Rebuild kits about $45

Thanks Niel!

Gents, I came across this in the "Facts about Volts, Amps, and Ohms" Service Reference Book Vol.1, No. 6 Dated 1948, and thought it was worded so well I wanted to share it. To check the ignition system: "Disconnect the primary wire from the distributor and connect the test Ammeter into the circuit - between the wire and the terminal.With the points closed, ignition switch on, there should be a reading of from 4 to 5 amperes on the Ammeter; with the points open there should be no reading at the Ammeter. If there is a reading with the points open, the condenser is leaking and should be replaced, or there is a grounded connection in the distributor. If there is less than a 4-amp discharge reading on the Ammeter with the points closed, disconnect the Ammeter lead from the distributor terminal and ground it. If the Ammeter reading is still below normal the trouble is probably in the coil. The coil should be replaced. If the reading becomes normal with the lead grounded, the trouble is in the breaker points (they are pitted or burned)". Well there you have it, and if your an electrical dummy like me - you can still understand this. A simple way to check the ignition system. I have been working on cars 40 years and it doesn't seem to get any better than this explanation. Tom

Don, Starting point: Look for loose wire at Amp Gauge. Continue to look for loose wires, particularly at the Generator and Voltage Regulator after the Amp Gauge. Run a test of the Generator and Regulator .- to see if they are working. Use a Service Manual to run tests. I think I just saw a post here on the Forum yesterday on how to test a Generator? Tom

True, True!

Here is a picture Its by the firewall at your steering column Read page 22 as well - piece of cake

Charles, Your Linkage Problems are solved! Go to: www.imperialclub.com Choose: Imperials by year Choose: 1948 Choose: Technical Box - Master Technicians Service Conference Choose 1949 Transmission Fundamentals Go to Page 21 where they will show you how to adjust your linkage to solve your problem. I had the exact same problem after installing a new clutch in 2008 in my Chrysler Royal. Tom

Thanks for the help! I'm still trying to figure out how to add pictures

Thanks for the last picture. I am getting it right with a grinder and file. As far as getting someone to make another Micrometer Dial Pin, that would be great! I will continue to look for one at swap meets, ebay, etc. until I find one. I do not have a lathe or the requisite machinist skills to make one. Simple rod machining like the last picture is within my skill set. Thanks again! Tom

Shel_bizzy, Yes you are correct. without the Dial post I'm just really checking toe/heel clearances. Which is all I really needed anyhow. Thanks for all the pictures! Tom

Thank You! Is the other one critical (Lengthwise ) for checking the drum?

Anyone?