Tom Skinner

First Rule of driving an old Chrysler - bring a spare fuel pump - they (flat Heads) tend to eat them. Second rule of driving an old Chrysler - refer to rule one. Save your old fuel pumps shells to rebuild the old Airtech #588 are no longer being made. Ebay salespeople asking heepum wampum for them now. Rebuild kits about $45

Thanks Niel!

Gents, I came across this in the "Facts about Volts, Amps, and Ohms" Service Reference Book Vol.1, No. 6 Dated 1948, and thought it was worded so well I wanted to share it. To check the ignition system: "Disconnect the primary wire from the distributor and connect the test Ammeter into the circuit - between the wire and the terminal.With the points closed, ignition switch on, there should be a reading of from 4 to 5 amperes on the Ammeter; with the points open there should be no reading at the Ammeter. If there is a reading with the points open, the condenser is leaking and should be replaced, or there is a grounded connection in the distributor. If there is less than a 4-amp discharge reading on the Ammeter with the points closed, disconnect the Ammeter lead from the distributor terminal and ground it. If the Ammeter reading is still below normal the trouble is probably in the coil. The coil should be replaced. If the reading becomes normal with the lead grounded, the trouble is in the breaker points (they are pitted or burned)". Well there you have it, and if your an electrical dummy like me - you can still understand this. A simple way to check the ignition system. I have been working on cars 40 years and it doesn't seem to get any better than this explanation. Tom

Don, Starting point: Look for loose wire at Amp Gauge. Continue to look for loose wires, particularly at the Generator and Voltage Regulator after the Amp Gauge. Run a test of the Generator and Regulator .- to see if they are working. Use a Service Manual to run tests. I think I just saw a post here on the Forum yesterday on how to test a Generator? Tom

True, True!

Here is a picture Its by the firewall at your steering column Read page 22 as well - piece of cake

Charles, Your Linkage Problems are solved! Go to: www.imperialclub.com Choose: Imperials by year Choose: 1948 Choose: Technical Box - Master Technicians Service Conference Choose 1949 Transmission Fundamentals Go to Page 21 where they will show you how to adjust your linkage to solve your problem. I had the exact same problem after installing a new clutch in 2008 in my Chrysler Royal. Tom

Thanks for the help! I'm still trying to figure out how to add pictures

Thanks for the last picture. I am getting it right with a grinder and file. As far as getting someone to make another Micrometer Dial Pin, that would be great! I will continue to look for one at swap meets, ebay, etc. until I find one. I do not have a lathe or the requisite machinist skills to make one. Simple rod machining like the last picture is within my skill set. Thanks again! Tom

Shel_bizzy, Yes you are correct. without the Dial post I'm just really checking toe/heel clearances. Which is all I really needed anyhow. Thanks for all the pictures! Tom

Thank You! Is the other one critical (Lengthwise ) for checking the drum?

Anyone?

That would be the Micrometer Dial Pin Length, and the Micrometer Shaft Length?

Gents, I was lucky enough to score an Ammco 1750 Brake Gauge on ebay for $30.01. It was however missing the micrometer post and the "heal: consentricity post". My question to anyone that owns one is: What is the length of those posts. Today I purchased the 5/8" Steel Stock from a Hardware store to machine them. I have everything else. Its the post that goes in the 10" 11" or 12" peg (How Long?) The Post that comes out of the Spindle side (how long?) and also where is it notched to check the drum for round? I need Lengths and notch measurements. Thank You! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC.

Keep looking on ebay. One can still snag one for @ $50 S&H included. Lots of deals out there while people are snoozing.

Gents, I found the Service Manual and it has good instructions on how to remove the latching mechanism. I will try to find (on ebay) some springs. They are pretty much always listed under 1942-1948 Chrysler, or Desoto. As far as twisting posts or handles to correct the sag/droop for the handle, I personally would not try that unless all else had failed (spring replacement) and - and I said AND I had an extra handle/post to replace the one I was twisting in case I monked it up some how. Just my humble opinion. I'll try the spray it with Liquid Wrench before I try anything else. Besides my droop is minor, I am just contemplating going in there to correct it right now. Tom

Desoto Dave, Ok, I'm still wondering. How does one get to those springs to replace them? Is this in our Service Manuals? I guess I'm inviting negative comments about "why I didn't look this up first" but I thought I'd risk asking. Maybe a quick 1-2 step explanation would provide confidence for some to try. Only my Driver's door sags a little and I wouldn't mind trying to fix it, and I'm sure I'm not the only one. Tom Huntersville, NC

I want one chooped. L.O.L.

Dilberts and Wally's haven't got time for a hobby, because they are too busy working long hours (unwillingly) in a cubical. They wouldn't have the nerve to stand up to their wives or kids to allocate the funds, time, or energy to fix cars. They are unwilling subordinates that fit the passive aggressive role, one minute kissing the bosses behind - the next talking behind his back. They are unhappy in their jobs which constitute the better part of their waking lives, and seek to make others as miserable as themselves. Look around they are fast becoming everyone U.S.A. Not me - I refuse to lose - I choose Chrysler Products. L.O.L. I guess that's why I have a lower paying job - I don't subscribe to their chicken poop existences.

Greg, Plymouth Adams is correct. I have an Auto-Lite GDZ 4801-A, 6 Volt, 35 Amp Generator on my 1948 Chrysler which runs a 250.6 Flat head engine. I'm pretty sure it would be a 6 Volt 35 or 40 Amp Generator that was original to a 1946-1948 Plymouth or Dodge/your car. If you identify the generator as a 12 volt (The one your selling) than you have been honest in representing it, and then it is the buyers issue if it doesn't meet his application. I would give the ID # Volts and Amperage, then as in any buyers situation its imperative they know what their application is. You have represented your item honestly, therefore any buyer's knowledge or ignorance would be just that. By the way should you be interested there are some (6 Volt 35 Amps) on ebay now under 1948 Chrysler (Used @ $50 New @ $200). You may also find out that a Generator might not care if its 6 or 12 Volt (Someone help us here - I am an Electrical ignoramus). Tom

I see, said the blind man, to his deaf dog.

Chuck, Back to your point of speeds on the highway. Well, without changing transmissions, rear ends etc., I would suggest google maps or map quest using the back roads. I typically can find there are several options (direction wise) to car shows here in North Carolina. One needn't go down a superhighway at 70 mph, when other older roads lead to the same destination. Besides I usually find an old mill with corn bread mix in a cloth sack or a covered bridge or an old winery along the way. Superhighways, Big Box Stores, etc are for your usual idiots eating fast food while driving 75-85 mph, racing to their own deaths one way or another. Find an alternate route, slow down and live, it is possible you know. Oh and by the way turn off your cell phone, and stop and get a cup of coffee and a slice of home made apple pie along the way. Nobody needs to race through life unless they choose to do so. Tom Huntersville, North Carolina

When my motor mounts were shot, and my clutch was shot, I had clutch judder/shudder also. It usually comes in at 15 or 20mph and goes back out at 30mph or sometimes come in at 25mph and goes back out at 35mph. I tried everything to fix things and wouldn't admit it was the clutch until my neighbors dad John Bolton (77 yrs old) went for a test drive with me. He was a mechanic back in the mid 1950's until 1980's. He said its clutch judder. He is from Michigan and they call it judder there instead of shudder. Well I pulled my tranny and clutch and sure enough the clutch disk was wore slam out and oily film was in bell housing. I ordered everything I needed from good old cheerful Andy Bernbaum himself and fixed it right pilot bushing and all. No more trouble since, and that's been 5 years ago. Oh yeah while I was at it I changed out the rear motor mounts as well. Tom

Look at the arrows on the anchor bolts are they pointed in the right direction? There is also an adjustment screw at the base of the brake pedal (below the floor board) they may have messed with that would have the same symptom (brake locking up)? You'll find it I'm sure it will just take some patience. Also check all brake return springs?

Vintage Power Wagon also sells them