Tom Skinner

W, If that is your Wire Terminal off of your front driver's side "Inner Fender" they used some real tough fiber insulator. There is a guy that sells these new. The Two and The Three Type. His name is Dennis at: Iola Wisconsin. 715/445-3791 . He calls them 2 & 3 Post Electrical Junction Blocks - screws to the inner fender, ahead of Radiator on driver's side aluminum stampings authentic reproduction - about $45 for a set of two (This includes S&H). Check with him prior to ordering as my catalog is 4-5 years old and pricing may have changed. Tom

I think I'm going back to Coker for bias ties in a few years. Mine will be 10 years old by then. I won't mind replacing them by then. I will go for the Firestone Wide Whites Look. It just seems right to put them on my 48 Chrysler Royal

I just received my Hagerty Magazine in the mail last week (Spring 2014 Issue) In the Q&A (Question and Answer page 62) a guy asks about "shelf Life" of Tires. The Answer was: "tires are rubber based, and rubber deteriorates" it goes on to say "experts consulted suggest Tires should be replaced every 5-7 years, and that goes for Classics as well as modern Tires". I think the experts are either rich or getting kick back for their opinion, because I have driven on Tires that have been 10 years old and older with no problems, for decades. The Answer does wind up saying "Tires are sold (After 2000) with a 4-Digit code on them". "For Instance, a Tire coded 3303 was manufactured during the 33rd week of 2003". So I at least learned something from reading the magazine - not the throw out your tires every 5-7 years thing, but the coded part - L.O.L. Who's got a Grand for New Tires every 5 years? Maybe Jay Leno.

I think Roberts or Andy Bernbaum have those Grommetts

Rich, If you get those numbers I would appreciate it. Tom

Gents, Does a Starter out of a 1939 6 Cylinder Mopar Engine work with a 1942-1948 Chrysler Engine? In other words is a Starter for a 1939 Chrysler inter- changeable with a 1942-1948 Chrysler Engine? Does anyone have an Inter Change Book to look this up for me? The 1942-1948 Starter is a MAX4050 for the 251 Engine, what is the one for a 1939 6 Cylinder Engine? Is the 242 Engine Starter Interchangeable? Thanks! Tom

Tyson, For God's sake man, buy a service manual, and fix it yourself. If its one bad cylinder Piston, Rings and Gaskets is still only a hundred dollars in parts or so. Why take any ones word for it, these cars are easy peasy to work on - borrow a few tools if need be. Good Luck. Tom

Dang! That's the best Tool Kit I ever saw. L.O.L.

OK, Now having done that. This is a Saturday Evening Post 1947 Magazine Ad John Clymer Painted. Does anyone have this Ad and want contact me with their information? Thanks! I'm trying to get someone to scan me a larger copy of it. (Its the last Chrysler Clymer Ad needed to fill out my collection.

I have in the past posted pictures on the Forum. Now The Pictures won't download with a note stating its timed out-not enough space

Picture How do I move new pictures to p15-d24? from my pictures in my computer? Thanks!

Rodney, Paul's Chrome did mine. Damn Great work - at a real proud price. They are litteraly the best. I would show you a picture of a Goose Neck Mirror I just had done that the Tin Worms had Eaten Good but they made it new again. I would attach a picture, but I can't figure out how to attach pictures anymore since they changed this site.

I bought my last Battery at Car Quest a 6 Volt Truck and Bus 880CCA - Same Size as always right about $95 w Core Trade. Don, I have a clock on my dash that runs all the time. Wouldn't that slowly draw down a battery? I have a battery tender I put on it every couple months to bring the battery all the way up just as cheap insurance - if I take a trip - I know she'll start up. I also replace my batteries in all my cars right around the 36-40 month mark as more cheap insurance (No Towing Bills) that way either. Most Batteries today do not last much longer than that anyway. If you buy one and keep up with the date, and replace it before the time stamped on it is up - they give you a new one free. Free is Good!

Tyson, When you press the Horn Bar the Ground is completed and the Horn Sounds. That Spring merely keeps your Horn Bar off the Grounding Process That Insulation is very hard to determine, Look closely it is there, perhaps colorless but none the less its there. I believe theres even a blow up picture in your Service Manual of it Tom

One fine Saturday morning when I was pulling out of my garage with my '48 the horn just kept blasting. Of course I jumped out and unplugged it at the bottom of the post at the connector down there to quiet the street. It turns out the insulation at the bottom of my horn cup had worn off from the spring rubbing it down to the metal. So that's one more place to look if your horn just go's off and won't stop. It seems the very bottom of where the spring pushes back off of an insulated horn cup - that insulation may dry out crack or fall away and cause such a situation. I knew I had replaced the wire down through the post just before that so I was looking elsewhere for the problem. I taped the cup and spring with electrical tape to fix it, but at some time in the future it may wear back through the tape and a piece of rubber would probably serve better as a repair - say about the size of a silver dollar is round.

Correct Order: Set Points. Check Dwell. Set Timing. Connect Vacumn Gauge Set Carburator. Badda Bing - Badda Boom.

50 Coup, Roberts, or Bernbaum sells them for reasonable prices. If you don't have a 1/2" Impact Wrench, expect a wrestling match with those old Nuts and Bolts. I believe they are 7/8" and 3/4" . Good Luck!

Jim, As Plymouth Adams has said : Check your Manual (Service). The 6 Gallons is about 1/3 a tank (If you have a 17 Gallon Tank). Check for good Grounds on wiring first. Clip Jumper Wires to establish good wiring. Sometimes the Gauge can be Calibrated (If thats the problem) Sometimes the sending unit Cork is fubar. Good Luck! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Those plugs don't look too bad. She's running a tad rich but thats OK. nobody ever burned a valve running a tad rich. Take her out on the highway and blow those plugs out clean. Enjoy Life.

Wax trick works! Another trick - Fastenall sells Loctite Freeze Release @ $20/Can

Fastenall sells Loctite Freeze Release for @$20/Can Its basically Liquid Nitrogen with Penetrating Lubricant infused. Spray it on and it frees everything. I used it to remove Bumper Bolts (Frozen on for 65 years and they loosened right off). The Wax trick is also good.

Bill Hirsch - Newark New Jersey - (973) 642- 2404 ask for Frank - he sends free samples

Roberts, or Kanter

Try a spray lubricant - marinate it with PB Blaster. Wait a day or so and try wiggling it free. There is another "freeze" release agent Fastenall sells @ $20 a can "Loctite Freeze Release" the stuff works miracles. Tom

James, On the 251 (Long Block) the two Lower (bottom) Long Middle Studs to the Exhaust Manifold do go into the Water Jacket. Use a teflon sealer or teflon tape to try to stop the leak (that is if your lucky enough to pull them out without removing the exhaust manifold) Sometimes they will spin right out when hot - if loose. Of course drain your coolant before attempting this or it will piss all over your garage floor. Then if possible coax them out and seal them and re-install. Good Luck. Tom