Tom Skinner

That first post _ You Rascal You! That was first recorded by the Mills Brothers in 1932. ("I'll be standing on the corner high when they carry your body by - I'll be glad when your dead you rascal you") I guess its so old its new again. You Tube might have an original rendition - google it. Otherwise I just listen to it on my old 78 rpm record player. L.O.L. I guess even a dinosaur like me can figure out this new Forum Format

My upload failed

only 182KB

I am trying to use this new site, sorry for multiple pictures

Today I removed my distributor, (after finding TDC) and reset my points to .020, then checked my points tension to 17-20 oz with a scale then re-installed the distributor, and set my timing, and then used my vacumn gauge to get highest setting, I used a tool I made that goes over the sixth cylinder.

I picked it up off of ebay $10. It was listed under Poulan Scale, however, the spelling on the scale was Poulanze. Its Brass (Antique) and about the size of a cigar. Yes they are hard to come by I only saw 2 listed before Christmas. I'll pull the distributor Saturday, and reset the Points tension and inspect the rubbing block. Thanks! Tom

All great information. I have a distributor related question. Recently I purchased a little scale (32oz) hand held thing, and checked my points tension. It should be between 17-20 oz. It read 25oz. I didn't change it yet because I know if the tension is too low you can get point bounce, but what if it is a tad high? What would be the symptoms of points to tight at the spring? Otherwise the car seems to run fine.

Could be a bad ground. Put Star Washers on everything. Check all ground straps for good tight paint free connections. Condenser on the Generator might help, however a grounding strap should clear it up. A good ground at the radio as well. I run old wire type with champion rj12c (592) plugs with no condenser at generator or issues

Happy New Year! And Many Many More!

Gents, First, I guess I opened a can of worms. I derived my figures from the Service reference book Vol. # 1 No. #11 Dated 1948 page 4 Gas Consumption on the Highway Its based on Flat Head Gas Consumption. Second, If everyone feels safer going with the flow of traffic - fine. I drive in the right lane doing the limit. Lastly, I very rarely watch Fox News, and don't believe 90% of what they are pushing. Anyway if you go to the Imperial website go to Imperials by year, then go to Service Reference Booklets, then to 1948, then to Fuel Economy through Planed driving, then to page four. One can see how speeds over the 2000 rpm level begin to consume much more gas than is needed to get somewhere if one were to actually slow down and do the limit, like old geezer's like myself. Happy New Year everyone on the Forum including the young whipper snappers. Tom Huntersville, NC

Young Ed, Yes, I was refferencing people with older cars, to the ethanol free gas station listings. So they may find safe gas for their rides. White Spyder 70 mph. seems fine but your probably in a 65 mph zone so you too are breaking the law, and endangering lives. I know, your in a hurry so who gives a damn. That my dear friends is why we as a nation are doomed. I used to think New Yorker's had a "hurray for me and the hell with everybody else" attitude, but unfortunately it seems most young Americans everywhere in the United States now live by this credo. I expect disrespect from the younger generation as well also - so to you I wish a "Merry Christmas and Happy New Year" Youngsters do as you damn well please but remember there was a time we pulled together as a team in America to the better good of all. Sadly that time is over. Tom Huntersville, NC

Gents, Google gas stations with ethanol free gas in (Your State). Then scroll down and search. There are many, but the gas costs more. Is it really designed for the newer flex fuel vehicles maybe? I don't know. I do know one thing, if this country was dedicated to reserving oil supplies and gas usage we would re-instate the speed limit back down to 55 mph and enforce it. It is a proven fact that vehicles obtain their best mpg rating at between 45-55 and even 60 mph, where engines stay below 2000 rpm at cruising speeds. Knuckle heads barreling down the road at 75 or 80 mph are endangering lives, using more fuel, and basically braking the law. This in turn drives up prices of gas, increases insurance payments (from more wrecks), and endangers lives. Like the old saying goes "we have met the enemy, and the enemy is us". Come on America pull together as a team and lets put an end to stupid driving habits. Drive the limits and preserve fuel. By the way Flat Heads run on anything.

Niel, That's my neighbor, painting his own house. He is in his late sixties and can afford a painter but would rather do it himself. I was driving through the neighborhood and stopped to take that picture. I asked him if he would mind me parking in front of his place to do so, and he said help yourself. Great guy to talk to. Tom

Frankie47, Thank you, you are kind. I didn't mean to hijack this thread. I liked driving my first 1948 Chrysler Royal in the snow up in NJ back in the 1970's, and I thought that 1947 white Windsor looked terrific. I had a pic of my 48 with the red bow and when it was mentioned, I figured out the new way to load pictures on the forum (it only took me an hour) I attached my green machine to the mix. Merry Christmas, and keep those Christmas Bow Pictures coming! Occasionally I see a Big Mercedes going down the road with the Big Red Bow on them, and thought what the heck I'll put one on my Royal. Tom

I don't have many (my computer crashed recently).

/[/img] It doesn't snow much here in Huntersville NC

Ditto, Steele is expensive but far and away the best. In things such as this (the hassle) of this type of work, I am talking about risking scratching glass or breaking it, don't go second class. When your done you will see the wisdom of our advice. By the way use nylon coaxing tools/pry tools so as not to scratch paint, glass etc. Tom

Gents, And that is the crux of flat head ownership. Run em by the book and their slugging along in traffic, run em a tad "hot" and they keep up in modern traffic. When worn or carbon build up bites them boomyow a ring comes flying out the tailpipe. I have owned a few 1948 Chrysler Royals since 1973 with the 250.6 engine and that's the gig. It is what it is as they say in NYC. It is the attraction, the challenge, the lifetime of fun keeping these behemoths on the road. Heck, I can't think of a better hobby that has taken me 40 years down the road. I hope everyone is as grateful as I am, and that we can continue our hobbies in good health, in the coming year. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC.

Dan, The service Manual will help you here. Mine was something like 150 foot pounds when all the way tight. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal. The Dodge/Plymouth may have different tightening specifications. Be sure and refer to your Service Manual. Tom

Dan, Did you take loose the Yoke from the rear end, when doing pinion seal? Did you pre-load it and torque it back on properly when changing your pinion seal? If so..... Take the Drive Shaft off. Inspect U-Joints. Get Drive Shaft Balanced. A good Shop with a welding torch can true it back up on a lathe. I paid $100 to have the shaft re-balanced. I also bought new U-Joints. They were $100 each. Do not throw away old U-Joints, especially the ones with bat wing tabs - they are getting like hen's teeth to find. Tom

Mike, I have attempted to buy the 588 Fuel Pump from NAPA and CarQuest. I have been told they are obsolete. I am in NC. Airtex was their supplier and I called them. Fellow there told me they are no longer making them at Airtex. You may have purchased the last of the remaining fuel pumps?? Ebay seems to be the only alternative. My advise to all Mopar owners: DO NOT throw away your Cores keep them, rebuild kits are available. I didn't say you couldn't get them. I said one would now pay dearly for them. Tom

Gents, A word on these Water Pumps is in order. E-Bay and most Antique Car Cellars Etc., are now charging $150 for these Water Pumps. I just ordered an extra from NAPA for $77 inc. S&H. Soon the price for parts for our cars will explode, with the attitude that we (antique car owners) are rich and we should pay accordingly. Or maybe the E.P.A. Dingbats want our cars off the road? Either way it would behoove us to buy extra parts now while they're still cheap. The antique Car Cellar still sells rebuild kits for our Fuel pump cores @$37 ea. while CarQuest and NAPA don't even carry Fuel Pumps anymore, read (Just Electric) ones. Not Stock. Do as you choose, I just bought some extra parts for Christmas. After that the parts houses will probably see any reason in the world to double dip us for parts from here out. I'm not rich, and I'm not used to paying double for parts that shouldn't be so. So I'm sending out the Ring of the Clarion Bell to all that heed a bargain one last time. Hyper-Inflation is on its way.

Mike, The NAPA TFW 42554 Water Pump (w bypass) is interchangeable between the 230cu. in. and 250.6 cu. in.. You are good to go! Tom

Bob, God Bless you and Merry Christmas! We can still say that down South. The rest of America has left America. We Southerners still will talk real. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC