Tom Skinner

Bob, God Bless you and Merry Christmas! We can still say that down South. The rest of America has left America. We Southerners still will talk real. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

They are really closing it to store those Chrysler's in a Bunker to protect them from 12/21/12. (The end of the World scenario). Once preserved to posterity, Chrysler's will rule the Earth, no more non Mopar Vehicles ever again, hahahahahaha. Oh well, it felt good when I typed it. I hope they re-open when funds permit. Tom

Woodjunky, Well said. I pride myself in the skills I use to keep my 1948 stock. It is always important to hand down those skills to youngsters also. I have taught my son (17) how to set points and timing. If everyone wants Petronix fine, I still opt for stock. Besides unless you have an extra spare at all times if it messes up that's a real chunk of change. They are I believe @ $140 a kit so x 2 = $280 for some points and a coil? Not good math for me, I'm too practical for that outlay. I could buy a new battery, new shocks all around and still buy points, cap, rotor, condensor, and plugs, and go buy a Coke and Hamburger when I'm done for that much. Probably have some change left to buy gas with. L.O.L. Tom

Kitty Litter and the Twist - with Chubby Checkers singing on the radio of course:rolleyes:

Let em run rich. Chrysler's and Chrysler Valves like gas. So whats the problem? Change the oil more often and run em more often. Go down the highway to burn those plugs clean. Run em wide open, no half stepping here. No issues here. L.O.L.

North Paul, I change mine every March and every September whether its needs it or not. Save money - store it then change oil in the spring when getting ready to drive it. I would buy the oil now though because its not getting any cheaper. If Iran gets out of control - Hit - its going to go through the roof price wise. Save by buying a few 5 qt bottles of oil now. Then next year you'll be glad you did. Tom

Olaf, I'm glad it worked out for you. By the way the picture I tried to upload on here was way too big after I scanned it. Thats why it wouldn't load. Tom

Greg, I sent Olaf a personal email with that adjustment nut shown. I guess he hasn't put his hood up yet, as it is the linkage adjustment that he needs. This is by your steering column under the hood Olaf. The Transmission Service booklet it is out of is as Olaf has stated "for a three speed" however that adjustment is on my Fluid Drive also. So when Olaf gets around to it he will be able to try the adjustment we are prompting him to do? Tom

Olaf, I have sent you an email. If one goes to: www.imperialclub.com then choose say 1948 then service/technical booklets then look for transmission fundamentals. This will explain the Linkage adjustment I sent you. Tom

Olaf, I can't upload the picture. Tom

Olaf, I think its a Linkage problem. I'm trying to load a picture of an adjustment that can be made. Tom

Try: Bill Hirsh 396 Littleton Avenue Newark, New Jersey, 07103 Phone: (973) 642-2404 They send free samples as well when you tell them over the phone what your looking for. Tom

Adam, Robert is right, if you can endeavor to learn and do a little each day by yourself. Our cars are pretty high maintenance - kinda like a Lady that needs attention. Therefore to, do -it - yourself, will save you an awful lot of money in the long run and bring a whole lot of satisfaction knowing you did it yourself. A Service Manual is a good place to start, they are not hard to find on ebay. From there (Our Flathead Engines) are quite simple straight forward engines to work on. Setting Points, Timing, and Tuning the Carburetor with a Vacumm Gauge is not difficult (about 45 minutes). Changing plugs (15 minutes) and your on your way to being a great mechanic. Of course it helps to have a experienced car club guy/buddy to show you the way the first time. In fact if possible if you can't find a free helper, ask the guy your paying to show you what he is doing (if he's willing) then you will know just how easy it can really be. Tom

Adam, When smoke comes out of my breather after I shut my engine off, its usually because I'm running a little rich and gas seems to be saturating the crankcase. The other part of your question if I have a full gas tank and its real hot out my carb will drip out some (maybe call it boil over) after the heat weight goes back up. If however its cooler out and I only have a half tank of gas it doesn't do it. Maybe your carb bushings are a bit worn? I have had a couple of 1948 Chrysler Royals since 1973 and they always smoked a little out of the breathers and weeped a little gas out the carbs after shutting down the engine. Right now though I have the choke and carb mixture set just right and its not doing either, but that's probably because I have it set a tad lean and the choke and timing are just right. Set your points, time it, then use a vacumm gauge to set the Idle mixture screw. Find your highest vacumm setting - say 20" or so and it should burn pretty clean. Another way to tell if your too rich is remove a spark plug and "read it". Is it dark and sooty? Is it light brown/whiteish brown? Adjust accordingly. I find running my timing about 4-6 Degrees in advance helps.

If Texas275 is right, the Steele rubber won't help.

So far pictures of guys texting. Put down those stupid boxes and grab a wrench and get to work. L.O.L.

Put a couple of 5 Gallon Pails in there to sit on and away you go. L.O.L. Good Luck that's allot of fun your having!

Mopar Al, Bob is right, here are trim rings like his that work. Tom

Those are duster hubcaps. On the Wagon. We used to steal them off Plymouth Dusters in the early 1970's up in the big city U.S.A. (New York) and put them on every 14" wheel we could ride - even my 1967 Pontaic Bonneville. It was like "Close Encounters'" flying saucer caps, haha Gee our old Lasalle ran great .......those were the days..... I actually saw some duster caps on ebay recently just like those - really cool man:cool:

Don, Maybe a loose wire somewhere. I have had this happen to me several times throughout the years. Loose at the ignition coil, ignition switch, starter selenoid. Also one more big BIG thing - the ground. Is everything really grounding? Star Washers will cure this they cut through paint or grim and complete the circuit. Good Luck - electric problems are real frustrating to deal with. Take your time it will become apparent to you soon. Tom

Gents, These "Captains" of Industry (government employees) pretend to work while we pretend to pay them. If you appeal to the fact that you would like to speak to their supervisor to accomplish what it is you seek they will comply. Why you ask? Because they know if they are documented for not helping you in a kind manner, they will be reprimanded at appraisal time and crapped out of a raise. You see that's how government eats their own. If I can hold you down and crap you out of a raise as your supervisor, then I will receive a farthing more. Its kind of like the the little bird in the nest that keeps crapping itself to keep warm. Politely ask to speak to their supervisor and they will jump through hoops of real fire to help you. Remember that the thought for the day is posted on their bulletin board. Until they are reminded of their task - they forget it. Question: Do you know why government employees only get a half hour for lunch? Because if we gave them any longer they would need to be retrained.

John, V.P.W. has them and perhaps Terrill Machine, Inc (254)893-2610 They are specialists in Chrysler Parts out of Texas:) Tom

Karl, I rebuilt my first 251 twice the ten years I owned it, I never replaced the lock washers at the connecting rod nuts. I had no problems, however, conventional wisdom now is to replace with new lock washers when rebuilding. I read this along with replacing head bolts as well during a rebuild. Also to chase the threads in the block with a tap to ensure accurate torqueing. The source was Vintage Power Wagon. wwwvintagepowerwagons.com It seems to me that they are giving good sound advice. They are also selling these parts. as I am older now and a bit more well healed so to speak it would seem smart to me to do those things now. Back in the 70's and 80's when I did my flat head rebuilds though I used grease on the copper head gasket (not copper head gasket spray) used my old lock washers, never chased the threads, used my old head bolts and never had a bit of a problem there. Maybe I was just lucky or maybe all that advice is overkill you decide. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

Karl, The 3/8" cap screws/nuts torque at 45-50 ft. lbs. (page 311 Chrysler Service Manual for C28-C40 Automobiles) Tom Skinner Huntersville NC