Tom Skinner

Niel, That's my neighbor, painting his own house. He is in his late sixties and can afford a painter but would rather do it himself. I was driving through the neighborhood and stopped to take that picture. I asked him if he would mind me parking in front of his place to do so, and he said help yourself. Great guy to talk to. Tom

Frankie47, Thank you, you are kind. I didn't mean to hijack this thread. I liked driving my first 1948 Chrysler Royal in the snow up in NJ back in the 1970's, and I thought that 1947 white Windsor looked terrific. I had a pic of my 48 with the red bow and when it was mentioned, I figured out the new way to load pictures on the forum (it only took me an hour) I attached my green machine to the mix. Merry Christmas, and keep those Christmas Bow Pictures coming! Occasionally I see a Big Mercedes going down the road with the Big Red Bow on them, and thought what the heck I'll put one on my Royal. Tom

I don't have many (my computer crashed recently).

/[/img] It doesn't snow much here in Huntersville NC

Ditto, Steele is expensive but far and away the best. In things such as this (the hassle) of this type of work, I am talking about risking scratching glass or breaking it, don't go second class. When your done you will see the wisdom of our advice. By the way use nylon coaxing tools/pry tools so as not to scratch paint, glass etc. Tom

Gents, And that is the crux of flat head ownership. Run em by the book and their slugging along in traffic, run em a tad "hot" and they keep up in modern traffic. When worn or carbon build up bites them boomyow a ring comes flying out the tailpipe. I have owned a few 1948 Chrysler Royals since 1973 with the 250.6 engine and that's the gig. It is what it is as they say in NYC. It is the attraction, the challenge, the lifetime of fun keeping these behemoths on the road. Heck, I can't think of a better hobby that has taken me 40 years down the road. I hope everyone is as grateful as I am, and that we can continue our hobbies in good health, in the coming year. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year! Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC.

Dan, The service Manual will help you here. Mine was something like 150 foot pounds when all the way tight. I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal. The Dodge/Plymouth may have different tightening specifications. Be sure and refer to your Service Manual. Tom

Dan, Did you take loose the Yoke from the rear end, when doing pinion seal? Did you pre-load it and torque it back on properly when changing your pinion seal? If so..... Take the Drive Shaft off. Inspect U-Joints. Get Drive Shaft Balanced. A good Shop with a welding torch can true it back up on a lathe. I paid $100 to have the shaft re-balanced. I also bought new U-Joints. They were $100 each. Do not throw away old U-Joints, especially the ones with bat wing tabs - they are getting like hen's teeth to find. Tom

Mike, I have attempted to buy the 588 Fuel Pump from NAPA and CarQuest. I have been told they are obsolete. I am in NC. Airtex was their supplier and I called them. Fellow there told me they are no longer making them at Airtex. You may have purchased the last of the remaining fuel pumps?? Ebay seems to be the only alternative. My advise to all Mopar owners: DO NOT throw away your Cores keep them, rebuild kits are available. I didn't say you couldn't get them. I said one would now pay dearly for them. Tom

Gents, A word on these Water Pumps is in order. E-Bay and most Antique Car Cellars Etc., are now charging $150 for these Water Pumps. I just ordered an extra from NAPA for $77 inc. S&H. Soon the price for parts for our cars will explode, with the attitude that we (antique car owners) are rich and we should pay accordingly. Or maybe the E.P.A. Dingbats want our cars off the road? Either way it would behoove us to buy extra parts now while they're still cheap. The antique Car Cellar still sells rebuild kits for our Fuel pump cores @$37 ea. while CarQuest and NAPA don't even carry Fuel Pumps anymore, read (Just Electric) ones. Not Stock. Do as you choose, I just bought some extra parts for Christmas. After that the parts houses will probably see any reason in the world to double dip us for parts from here out. I'm not rich, and I'm not used to paying double for parts that shouldn't be so. So I'm sending out the Ring of the Clarion Bell to all that heed a bargain one last time. Hyper-Inflation is on its way.

Mike, The NAPA TFW 42554 Water Pump (w bypass) is interchangeable between the 230cu. in. and 250.6 cu. in.. You are good to go! Tom

Bob, God Bless you and Merry Christmas! We can still say that down South. The rest of America has left America. We Southerners still will talk real. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

They are really closing it to store those Chrysler's in a Bunker to protect them from 12/21/12. (The end of the World scenario). Once preserved to posterity, Chrysler's will rule the Earth, no more non Mopar Vehicles ever again, hahahahahaha. Oh well, it felt good when I typed it. I hope they re-open when funds permit. Tom

Woodjunky, Well said. I pride myself in the skills I use to keep my 1948 stock. It is always important to hand down those skills to youngsters also. I have taught my son (17) how to set points and timing. If everyone wants Petronix fine, I still opt for stock. Besides unless you have an extra spare at all times if it messes up that's a real chunk of change. They are I believe @ $140 a kit so x 2 = $280 for some points and a coil? Not good math for me, I'm too practical for that outlay. I could buy a new battery, new shocks all around and still buy points, cap, rotor, condensor, and plugs, and go buy a Coke and Hamburger when I'm done for that much. Probably have some change left to buy gas with. L.O.L. Tom

Kitty Litter and the Twist - with Chubby Checkers singing on the radio of course:rolleyes:

Let em run rich. Chrysler's and Chrysler Valves like gas. So whats the problem? Change the oil more often and run em more often. Go down the highway to burn those plugs clean. Run em wide open, no half stepping here. No issues here. L.O.L.

North Paul, I change mine every March and every September whether its needs it or not. Save money - store it then change oil in the spring when getting ready to drive it. I would buy the oil now though because its not getting any cheaper. If Iran gets out of control - Hit - its going to go through the roof price wise. Save by buying a few 5 qt bottles of oil now. Then next year you'll be glad you did. Tom

Olaf, I'm glad it worked out for you. By the way the picture I tried to upload on here was way too big after I scanned it. Thats why it wouldn't load. Tom

Greg, I sent Olaf a personal email with that adjustment nut shown. I guess he hasn't put his hood up yet, as it is the linkage adjustment that he needs. This is by your steering column under the hood Olaf. The Transmission Service booklet it is out of is as Olaf has stated "for a three speed" however that adjustment is on my Fluid Drive also. So when Olaf gets around to it he will be able to try the adjustment we are prompting him to do? Tom

Olaf, I have sent you an email. If one goes to: www.imperialclub.com then choose say 1948 then service/technical booklets then look for transmission fundamentals. This will explain the Linkage adjustment I sent you. Tom

Olaf, I can't upload the picture. Tom

Olaf, I think its a Linkage problem. I'm trying to load a picture of an adjustment that can be made. Tom

Try: Bill Hirsh 396 Littleton Avenue Newark, New Jersey, 07103 Phone: (973) 642-2404 They send free samples as well when you tell them over the phone what your looking for. Tom

Adam, Robert is right, if you can endeavor to learn and do a little each day by yourself. Our cars are pretty high maintenance - kinda like a Lady that needs attention. Therefore to, do -it - yourself, will save you an awful lot of money in the long run and bring a whole lot of satisfaction knowing you did it yourself. A Service Manual is a good place to start, they are not hard to find on ebay. From there (Our Flathead Engines) are quite simple straight forward engines to work on. Setting Points, Timing, and Tuning the Carburetor with a Vacumm Gauge is not difficult (about 45 minutes). Changing plugs (15 minutes) and your on your way to being a great mechanic. Of course it helps to have a experienced car club guy/buddy to show you the way the first time. In fact if possible if you can't find a free helper, ask the guy your paying to show you what he is doing (if he's willing) then you will know just how easy it can really be. Tom