Tom Skinner

3/4" Treated Plywood is approaching $50 a Sheet around North Carolina now, (Lots of Home Building going on now). 4 Jack Stands at Harbor Freight are $52.(with a coupon). I would opt for the Jack Stands with my Floor Jack before I started putting 2 or 3 Pieces of 4 X 8 Plywood down anywhere. JMHO Even the 2 ton Floor Jack is only $89 at Harbor Freight. Thus Floor Jack with 4 Stands = $141 3 Pcs 3/4 Treated Plywood = $150 The first car is still just sitting parked on the Plywood with no elevation at $150 The second car is up on 4 Jack Stands with an additional Floor Jack placed strategical in a just in case manner. I would feel safer under the second car with 4,000 LBS of Steel over my carcass. Although my wife has plenty of Life Insurance on me - so I imagine it wouldn't much matter to her either way. LOL

It's usually the ground 9 times out of 10

LMAO

Ralph, I too don't want to sound like an authority. It may be the Carb. (Clogged needle and seat or otherwise worn Idle Mixture needle (Check point of needle) it should be relatively pointy not rounded) Question: have you checked the tension on the points after setting them? They should be about 18-19 oz (Use a small had held scale) I have set mine to loose and sometimes this causes sluggish performance @ 50mph. Also Compression is Good if consistently across the Cylinders (example all about 90 Lbs, or 95 Lbs) above 100 is desirable. I have had an old Chrysler back in the day that had 85 - 95 LBS that was worn (Rings) that ran fine because the Cylinders didn't differ by more than 10 LBS from one another. These old Flat Heads can flood fast with dirty/worn needle and seats etc. The tolerances where not as big a deal then and with wear these beasts like to burn gas and oil (as well as leak them) LOL Good Luck again! Tom

Compression Test First. Gap Plugs. Set Points next. Check Dwell. Set Timing.Check Vacumn - set to highest reading in inches - say 18"-21"(You need a steady hand here or something is wrong such as a vacumn leak etc). Messing with the Carb continually isn't getting you anywhere. If the Idle Mixture Needle is Dull at the point - It don't matter which way you turn it - fuel is just dumping into the engine with no venturi effect whatsoever. If you need help from an older mechanic GET IT. All this advice is just running you in circles. Use the proper proceedure order above. I would think your timing is off - thus the missing and sooty plugs (It is most likely Retarded) Setting the timing about 4-7 Degrees in advance to allow for 87% octane gas. Gas used to be 75 - 78% octane back in the 40's So setting it by the book really doesn't get it anymore. Good Luck. Tom

Neil, Good Idea. Screw it both ends. LOL That would stop all the WA WA WA's. Tom

James, Good Luck, stay with it, you have a really nice ride there. Tom

Bob, thanks for posting above Service Booklet Pages. I would have, however, since they changed this site, I can't figure out how to post pictures Tom

Hold the pedal to the floor, then crank it. Problem solved. Why make a mountain out of a mole hill? Oh that's right - that's what the "new" generation does - Groovy man.

NAPA 30wt Non-Detergent - also a shot of ZDDP Additive - makes it run like a sewing machine (251cu.in. Flathead)

Mix the ISO22 and ISO32 half and half Right Sebolt or whatever - IT AIN'T ROCKET SCIENCE

On ebay a guy named rpm-motorsports-parts (Minnesota) is selling 1948 Chrysler Fenders. He would probably have your Spring Covers as well. He is selling from whole cars in his junk yard

Casper50, I have had 1948 Chryslers for going on 40 years now, and have not seen replacement covers for springs. This would be a salvage yard Item, I am sure. Occasionally I see a guy on ebay with a salvage yard in S.D. that would have these. If I see the name of his place, I'll message you. Tom

They are threaded in. I would send a picture but I can't figure that out on here anymore. I went to a good Mom and Pop Hardware Store in Charlotte NC in the Auto section and found 2 Studs. Drill and tap them in - don't worry the waste goes straight out the exhaust manifold/tail pipe. Then use little star washers with the nuts to hold it (Sisson Choke) in place. Don't forget the gasket. Tom

Ok you guys can go Negative - but I'm staying Positive - LOL Happy Easter!

A 6 Volt battery should read out at 7.25 Volts Charged. I'll bet if you slow charge that baby and look for loose wires you'll find your problem. My Chrysler Royal 251 wouldn't Crank with just 6 Volts left in the battery.

Darin, I sent you a picture of a Glove Box Latch Tom

Bidding at the last 2 seconds (But not bidding all along). To feign no interest until the last second - not to bid up an item with others, but to pick it off at the end - thus sniping.

Darin, Send me an email with your address Tom

Dj, I know you are probably overloaded with information here, but I'll chime in. Can you find Top Dead Center (First Piston at top of first Cylinder). Then Static time it. This will find the Spark your looking for. Check to see she's getting fresh fuel (disconnect fuel line) and put it in a jar of fresh gas to see if it is moving through the fuel pump) This should make her start. Get an old timer to lend a hand You might be happy at how smart we really are L.O.L. Good Luck. Tom

Try 450 in gear. The Book will tell you (with rear Wheels Raised in Gear 8-12mph is good) Its OK if its 500 + in Nuetral, When the Transmission Pressure is right (around 40lbs) it upshifts just fine, and downshifts just fine. Tom

Gotta have Transmission Fluid? It's there for a reason?

Tubeless

W, Yeah, Dennis is proud of his merchandise. I believe his business is call Vintage Woodies. His name is Dennis Bickford. He specializes in re-doing Dynoc Woody Sides Bent Ashe Wood Trim and Convertible Tops. He is a great guy to get to know especially if you own a T&C. Now if your a Woody owner you would probably see $45 as a big Lunch out. But for us working stiffs/fellows $45 is a weeks worth of gas to and from work, or Lunch all week out at work. L.O.L. Don Coatney probably gave you the best lead - McMaster Carr. When I re-did my Wiring and Junction Blocks I didn't replace them or the Insulation Strips (as they were falling off) and they still work fine. I wire brushed them and re-installed them as is. The $45 wasn't coming out of my pocket unless it had to. And it didn't have to. Tom

W, If that is your Wire Terminal off of your front driver's side "Inner Fender" they used some real tough fiber insulator. There is a guy that sells these new. The Two and The Three Type. His name is Dennis at: Iola Wisconsin. 715/445-3791 . He calls them 2 & 3 Post Electrical Junction Blocks - screws to the inner fender, ahead of Radiator on driver's side aluminum stampings authentic reproduction - about $45 for a set of two (This includes S&H). Check with him prior to ordering as my catalog is 4-5 years old and pricing may have changed. Tom