Tom Skinner

It looks like an under the dash (brake Light) Left side, or Map Light (right side). It pops straight down and out with the coaxing of a screw driver (Flat) and a little cussing. The bulb will change (slight twist - counterclockwise out) much like a directional bulb or Brake Light Bulb. Sometimes you can just reach up under the dash and pop the socket straight up and out and change the bulb. Also sometimes the unit is screwed in from the top. Changing just the bulb doesn't require removing the housing. Tom

All these Old Flat Heads smoke a little out the Filler Tube when you turn them off - fact of Life. They didn't exactly build engines to real close tolerances back then. Back in the day they did the same thing. Fully aspirated means fully aspirated. They Breathe - Vintage MOPAR

Todd, I meant to say polarize the Generator/Voltage Regulator - Not the battery. L.O.L. Tom

Nick, A great Trouble Shooters Guide (Book) Is called: "Automotive Trouble Shooting For WW2 Wheeled Vehicles Volume 1" edited by Robert Notman, Contact: notmanr7@comcast.net It tells you how to test Coils, Condensers, polarize a battery, problems with battery cables, etc. (Also what I just described - Static Timing). The Dynamic Timing (with a Timing Light while engine is running) etc. I believe I paid @ $33 which included S&H about 7-8 years ago for this little jewel of a book @105 Pages of pure good sense. No Bull _ _ _ _ it was originally released around WW2 when books didn't have "filler" to make their Authors look so damned smart chasing big bucks like today. I once borrowed my brother in Laws Engineering Technical Math Book Copyright 1959 (200 pages) It explained clearly what my Tech Math Book could not Copyright 1990 (950 pages). All the Latter Author's educated smarts couldn't explain clearly in 950 pages what an Author 31 years prior could explain clearly in 200 pages. That's when I noticed some people are so smart they are stupid. Just like today everyone is smarter than me. I rather enjoy being ignorant, it does have it advantages. L.O.L. Tom

Nick, Have you static timed the engine (that is to say timed the Engine while it is not running)? Get Cylinder #1 Piston to T.D.C. (Top Dead Center) turn on the ignition key. Loosen the Distributor Bolt/Clamp. Remove the Coil Wire from the Center of the Distributor Cap/Tower and hold it about 1/4" or so away from a clean ground on the block (Say a Clean Head Bolt). Slowly turn your Distributor in the opposite direction of what the rotation of your Rotor until a spark jumps the gap from the Coil Wire to the ground. Re-Bolt/Clamp your distributor bolt. Turn your ignition off. You should be able to start the engine at this point unless something else is amiss. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Andy Bernbaum, or Gary Roberts prices are much better than even ebay or the $167 set shown above. Ebay is like $124 (same set as above). Andy or Gary have the same set for $100 $109 range It pays to shop around.

Ricky, I looked in my Parts Book 1942-1948 Chryslers and didn't come up with any information. That plug does look like it is for a 1929 Plymouth. I know the Champion J8 is compatible with your 1940 Royal. They sell conversion charts on ebay, and I looked through some of them for you. You can "enlarge the view" with the little magnifying glass at the bottom of the charts. There was even a L designation on one chart but they were for Imperial Eights. Good Luck! Tom

Ron, try: www.acewichita.com They have one for a 1936 Airflow. I have spoken with the man in the past. He really knows his stuff - top flight work - rebuilds Good Luck! Tom

The biggest kick I get out of this hobby is: Setting the Points, and Setting the Timing, Static and then startng the Engine, checking the Dwell with a Tack and Dwell Meter Setting the Dynamic Timing with a Timing Light, and then using a Vacumn Gauge to set the Carburator. You might as well stick to new vehicles if your not able to do these things. Now I realize (as I get older) age, or health may prevent these tasks, however, if that's not the case then QUIT BEING A GIRL and just pull up your panties and tune her up. hei hei hei L.O.L. Now don't get sensitive on me, I am just joking around. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

Ralph, I am not sure I would know what to do with all them thar Lectrical tools. We don't even know how to read here in North Carolina. They are sure nice though. Copacohmeter huh? That's a big word like mayonaise We can't even spell W down here. Lets see dubbayou? Thank you for everyone's help. This is sure a Great Forum. I learn something just about everyday on here. Tom Skinner

Ok, Results in. The Ohm Meter/Voltmeter confirmed that not only was my condenser bad, but dead as a door nail. With the new one in the timing mark holds steady with the timing light, and I have much better pick-up/acceleration. I am sort of an idiot for changing the cap and rotor then the plugs, then the condenser. Back in the 70's when I was a poorer youngster I would have automatically replaced the condenser first - it being the cheapest part to try first. Oh well one good thing about getting old is you relearn everything you forgot. L.O.L. I pitched the old one into the round file from my work bench. Tom

OK, I went to Youtube and watched them load one up with voltage using an Ohm setting, then switch to a DC setting and unload it. When it doesn't do this it is no longer working. I will try it tomorrow using my Simpson Tube Ohm/Volt Meter, and then try it again using a cheapo digitial one. I'll post my results tomorrow night.

My Points were not burnt. I tried loading it up and got a tiny spark (Red) from it but no crack or blue flame discharge. I have the old condenser sitting on the bench, wondering whether to just throw it out. They are rather cheap to replace

Gents, I had to reset my timing a few times in the last month. Seems the Timing mark on the damper was shifting (not Blurring) around a few degrees. Finally in my Schauer Timing Light Box - I read the directions. It stated that if the timing shifted around it might be a bad Condenser, Rotor, or Points. The Distributor Breaker Plate I put in there some time back had the old Condenser in it IGS3004K (1948 Chrysler Royal 6). The Points looked fine and gapped .020. The Rotor was tight and newish (I had replaced it a few thousand miles back when I put in a new Vacumn Advance from AB's. The car was running better and was holding a steady Vacumm of 20", but getting crappy gas mileage. I changed the plugs and gapped them properly. Finally today I put in a new condenser. It runs a whole lot better. I couldn't believe how much better. What a difference a new condenser makes. Now for my question: How do you test a condenser? That is without just stumbling upon replacing it after screwing with this "problem" poor pick-up, and crappy gas mileage. Then slowly going through and replacing Rotor, Cap, Vacumn Advance etc. (The Vacumn Advance was obviously on its way out) anyway. But once again is there a simple way to test a condeser? Tom Skinner

Don, No not Champion. There are a dozen or so of these Radiator sellers on ebay. Almost all of them state "for standard transmissions only" I don't need a radiator, mine is fine. I was just looking to buy a spare in case mine ever goes to leaking. For the $145 - $175 range they are in, I thought that was low enough to buy a spare. No worries, I'll wait around until one comes along. Tom

Gents, A fore mentioned Radiator Sales Company on ebay and (most other brands also state the same) said they really couldn't say whether their radiator would work with my 1948 Chrysler Royal, with Fluid Drive. As stated "For use with only Manual Transmissions" was a caveat in most of these ebay listed Radiators. When you click the buttons, it shows it is compatible with a 1948 Windsor. I had even told them their dimensions were right on, and compatible with the Royal. I pressed them to contact their manufacture for information. They did and emailed me back, they said their manufacturer didn't know what a Fluid Drive Transmission was. They also stated that their manufacturer was in China. That ends my interest in that particular Radiator. I am one ignorant S.O.B. but I know that they are even more so ignorant than I am. "It takes one to know one" comes to mind here. They can't even sell Radiators, because they can't qualify their radiators to a Customer. I ask a stupid question? How do you sell something you don't even know what it is your selling? I hope they have thousands of these radiators sitting around a warehouse until they go broke. L.O.L.

W.F. Brown, To adjust the Float a little lower bend the tab slightly away from the float. I see your from Nebo, North Carolina. I am from Huntersville, North Carolina. Are we neighbors? I just Map Quested Nebo, we are 1 hour and 42 minutes apart. You are almost in TN. I used to live in Johnson City TN. Nice Mountain area you live in. By the way those Carburators usually leak a little on hot days right where your arrow is in your picture. Tom Skinner

Take out your plugs and read them. While you are at it smell them. Do they have a faint burnt anti-freeze smell to them? I had that problem, and re-torque my head bolts. They were as low as 50ft lbs for the front 2 cylinders. Once they were down to 70 ft lbs the problem went away. Remember Torque only a warm engine with cast iron head. a cold one if the head is aluminum. The Chrysler Gods smiled on me and my head gasket held the new torque and solved the problem. Tom

Don, I found one from DNANMotoring that is an exact Dimension Fit on Ebay. I will just call them on their 800 # and ask, but I am sure the Dimensions are spot on. Tom

Gents, I have a question? All of the Champion radiators on Ebay, state:For Manual Transmissions only. Does that mean because I have a 1948 Chrysler Royal with Fluid Drive I would be getting a Radiator that wouldn't fit? Perhaps because it would be to thick to fit down into the Bracket? Or do you'all suppose that they mean a manual transmission is actually a Fluid Drive? I am going out on a limb here, and suppose I am needing to just call them and inquire? Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina

NAPA Non-Detergent Straight 30 Weight Zinc? Chelated 15 Milliigrams one a day for me for good prostrate health LOL

If I can I will load a picture they are about 2" Long Tapped into Exhaust Manifold with Lock Tight when I changed out my Manifold Gaskets

Bill Hirsch 396 Littleton Avenue Newark, New Jersey, 07103 Phone (973) 642-2404 Frank sent me samples (I had cut a small swatch of Original Fabric from under my front seat to send him) they matched it perfectly. There is another place in the magazines that I have seen also somewhere up in New England LeBarron Bonney I think they are called. These guys don't play, they will match your original correctly. Or go modern with another fabric if you don't care what fabric is original.

I went to a MOM and Pop Hardware and bought two Small Threaded studs for my Exhaust Manifold drilled and Tapped them in where needed. Use a Center punch. I even used a coordless drill. Then just simply attached the choke back with star washers and nuts. You can probably rummage around your favorite Auto Supply House Bins and come up with compatable studs. I believe they were about an inch long with course thread on one side and fine threads on the other end.

Cut any Carpet that suites you. I had Noel Green Carpet Cut with Rustic Red Piping (Edging). Killer Look. At Christmas it Screams Merry Christmas! Or is that against Sharia Customs to say now.