Tom Skinner

Karl, I have had several 251 cu. in. rebuilds there is a lock washer for the connecting rod bolt/nut configuration. My Chrysler Service Manual shows them my Chrysler Passenger Parts List shows them as: 9-31-8 page 191 WASHER, Connecting Rod Bolt Lock (S.,.387 I.D. x 17/32" O.D., 5/64"inch thick) (bearing cap) Original Chrysler Part Number 668555 12 each Tom Skinner Huntersville NC

Driverless Cars are all the Bozo's on the phone and texting, tweeting, drivers out there now. I have to drive my antique car on Saturday mornings real early just to avoid the drunks, drug adicts, and otherwise brain dead drivers out there now. They are legion now, a hord of indifferent texting zombies operating automobiles on our roads. I think I'll buy a Hummer and plow thier asses into a ditch somewhere.

Lelshaddai, Sometimes if you run the engine until warm, then turn it off and retorque the head bolts to 65-70 ft lbs. It helps. I changed my plugs and smelled a trace of anti-freeze on them, also when I warmed up the car the tailpipe spit out what seemed to me a bit more condensation than it should have as well as having white smoke during that warm up time. I found my headbolts around #1, and #2 cylinders were "Loose". They torqued down from 40-45lbs to 65lbs and the smell of anti freeze on my plugs went away as well as the white smoke at warm up. quite a few bolts weren't near torqued enough. Remember warm the engine if its a cast iron head and also use the proper torque sequence in your Service Manual. I'm not saying this will fix your compression issues but may somehow be part of a good tune up process that might improve the way your engine runs. Greg may be right and its probably worn rings. Tom

Eddie, I would say the officer filling out the report was a schlepp. He had credible multiple eyewitnesses stating the bus ran the red light and didn't put that on the report? What a d _ _ k Wad. Those government empoloyees stick together. By that I mean Cops & School employees/bus drivers etc. They pretend to work and we pretend to pay them. Nonetheless, go see a laywer and get some letters out. They will ante up once they see you mean business. Probably not until then. Too bad our system doesn't seem to work for honest people anymore. Good Luck! Tom

I did the rubber hose Vacumn Line connect like Don on my 1948 Chrysler. It makes it much easier to tweak the timing with the resistance from the Steel Line gone. The distributor lifts out easy to set points etc.. Just be sure your a Top Dead Center on #1 when you pull it out. Tom

Mikey, "Holly Happy Days" I once had a girl named Holly and that was back in the Happy Days. Happy New year Mike! And many many more! Tom

Don, I know your pretty much done with this thread, but for the benefit of others, I went on ebay and replaced the entire headlights by the pair (new) with S&H included and new bulbs in the housings for $89/pr. So with that being said say against a $29 cleaning which may only last a year or two along with all that sanding and buffing, that is if nothing else gets marred or broke along the way the extra $60 for brand new headlights doesn't seem so bad. The new ones will last another 6-7 years easy. So its six of one or a half dozen of the other. A kit every other year for 6 years will cost around $87, or new headlights and re-install and one and done for around $89 doesn't seem so bad. There is one more consideration, that is if your going to keep your vehicle 6 more years or not. Oh well you asked for Ideas and that was mine. Tom

Great! Good Work. Now you are a Carburator Doctor - as some in the industry call themselves and charge exorbidant rates for services. L.O.L. I hope your back feels better, next time use a helper, or let those timbers be where they may be.

Steve, Glad you posted this, I have haggerty, and a 17 year old that wants to learn how to drive my '48, so I guess he'll have to wait a few more years. Tom

I hope this is true. Just think reducing our dependency on foriegn oil. This could be the start of something big!

jcf-1968, Does it turn with the starter, or no sound? Does it turn with the starter and not catch/start? Sometimes if not loose connections, then it could be a broken wire going to the ignition switch, ammeter, or coil. Those smaller wires around the distributor that go up to the coil can fray or break without being noticable. Then last I would rule on the starter selenoid or starter, because I usually fix all the cheap stuff first before tackling the harder higher dollar stuff. Tom

I finished. It was a 16 hour workfest. The car sits up about 3/4" more in the back and doesn't make noise going over bumps anymore. "What a difference a day makes 24 little hours" The new shocks help as well. I wouldn't do this without help though, it is no cake walk.

Also lots of parts sold on ebay (part cars) you can email the guy and ask him if he'll sell you just those springs as well. I have been very lucky in this regard because then your not bidding against anyone but just making the guy an offer your conforatable with. They are ussually glad to sell more parts this way a bit cheaper than you would realize. Tom

I just installed new shackle bushings, silencers and Atlas shocks on the rear of my 1948 Chrysler Royal. It was no cake walk. 16 hours work what with cleaning studs, nuts, washers,shackles etc., on a wire wheel. The one thing I noticed about the new Atlas shocks was they were about 3/4" shorter extended then the ones I took off. The ones I took off were shot pushed together with very little resistance, came back slower than molasses in January. I guess I need front shocks now - it stands to reason if the rears were shot so are the fronts. My question is should I risk buying front ones that don't match lengthwise? Maybe the old rear ones were stretched from just wear and tear? There is a guy on ebay selling a pair of fronts for $65/pr. The Atlas guy sells his at $88/pr. I wonder if there is any difference??? Tom Huntersville, NC PS. She rides alot quieter and smoother over bumps in the road, and sits up about 3/4" to an inch in the back as well.

Niel, Thanks will do. I have been wire brushing all threaded studs and nuts and spraying them with penetrating oil, they look like they will come off pretty easily - famous last words ha. I enlisted a buddy to help next Saturday as I don't think my shocks will be here by this Saturday. I'm going to continue to keep them soaked with PB Blaster until then. Thanks again! Oh, my buddy said he'll work the radio in your absence L.O.L. Tom

Niel, Thanks! I will wire brush and spray them well for several days as my shocks are coming from CA and I'm in NC so it will be a few days of spraying penetrant oil on the threads. My car is in pretty good shape (underside) rustwise so hopefully everything will turn well without blasting that radio to loud. I usually listen to old 40's music but in this case I may go to loud 70's Rock so if I slip and bust a knuckle the neighbors won't hear my words. Thanks again! Tom

Neil, Sounds like I'm in for another wrestling match - much like changing out manifold gaskets was. I think I'll try your method - spring removed that is. Thanks for sound advice, however I don't quite get what you'all mean by chasing the threads on the C Clamps. Will not the nuts just come off as I turn them? Tom

Thanks for the imput! Anymore opinions?

Gents, I just purchased the Eye Bushings and Shackle Kits fo the rear springs on my 1948 Chrysler. The service manual shows removing the shocks first then taking the C clamps off the spring then removing the shackle at the back/rear of the spring, and finally removing the front silencer/eye bushing. An old mechanic friend says that hooey, not to take the C clamp off, but remove the sway bar and let the axle drop enough to relax the spring then remove the rear shackle, front silencer/eye bushing. What he said is if you remove the C clamp you may never line it back up correctly and it would rack/track wrong down the road, that the secret to changing shackles and silencers was to get the spring to relax in the right position so as to replace everything without messing with the C clamps. Please share your opinions. Thanks in advance! Tom Huntersville NC

Robert Smith, If its spraying oil its probably coming out of the timing Chain Gasket up front. Back by the rear seal it would just drip back off into the road. Check for the origin of the leak. I have changed rear seals on 251 cu. in. Flat Heads with the Engine in, however, having said that, there is much nashing of the teeth that goes along with removing and installing the top half of the rear seal. It will take the better part of a Day (8 hrs) what with cleaning the oil pan up Etc, etc, etc. Tom

Scotty, I'm sure if you call the guys I listed with your engine size etc. and question them as to which way the arm comes off the back of the pump (straight, down, up) they will give you the correct answer. They are there to help make a satisfied customer - not to rip you off. Gary at Roberts, Chris at Bernbaums, and not knowing any one person at Vintage Power Wagons, I can say these guys know what they are talking about/selling and want to help out. After all they need return/our business, how many people are going to be asking them for parts for our cars (a finite number) need more parts down the road (no pun intended). Therefore I would pick one to trust and ask questions and go from there. Besides if Ol Andy were still there - even he would be helpful even if a little gruff (he was known for that by some people)over the phone. Its important to connect with a supplier you feel conforatable with, you will probably need more stuff/parts again. Tom

Don't give up untill you try: Roberts Motor Parts: (978) 363-5407 Andy Bernbaum Auto Parts: (617) 244-1118 Vintage Power Wagons: (641) 472-4665 Go to the Imperial Website there are more listings Everyone on Ebay thinks they should get double what these guys charge. Tom

Jim, About 3 months ago I saw full cans of that stuff going for around $90 a can. Caveat, however, to the Shipper - Ebay doesn't want full vessels being shipped of petroleum based products. Solution - sell em locally at a car show, or empty them into another vessel and sell the cans empty at around $40 a can (I have seen the empties go for that much on ebay also) I believe you can check with ebay - they do not allow full cans of that stuff to be shipped under their aegis (sponsorship). I do see from time to time 3 in one oil cans full sell on ebay though??? I really don't know where they draw the line. I guess I'm saying check with them before listing. Tom Skinner Huntersville, NC

They had (Chrysler) training records and films back in the day. I would think they were 78rpms back in the 40's though, but I am not sure. If you go to www.imperialclub.com, then click on imperials by year, then click on the year your interested in (say 1948), then click on imperial service conferences at the right hand box, a drop down box list hem all, you can download them all for free. The videos with the sound tracks, the booklets are all available for free. I'm sure they would look good on someone's wall as well. I would think ebay is your best bet if your looking for a return on your money. Most of us in this Forum share our information for free. Good luck on re-sell should you go that route. I'm sure there are collectors out there that would buy them. It would seem to me that they would be rare to come across.

Wooooo hoooo here we go again. Hey guys - go pour a drink. Chill. I like Crown Royal Reserve straight up in a heavy tumbler. A Chesterfield cigarette helps it taste better - smooth - full tasting - enjoyable - thats life. We are just here to help people, God Bless us everyone. I think the World of Don, and Rusty, two of the best guys we have on this Forum, and I think the rest of us do too. Tom Skinner Huntersville, North Carolina you'all come down and visit sometime.