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Greg51T&CWagon

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About Greg51T&CWagon

  • Rank
    Senior Member, have way too much spare time on my hands

Profile Information

  • My Project Cars
    1951 Chrysler Windsor Town and Country Wagon

Converted

  • Location
    Pennsylvania
  • Interests
    Analogue Photography

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  1. How about using a combo of solid color and patterned wool blanket material. Woolrich sells some traditional plaids, their shadow plaid with a matching solid gray? Maybe a dyed roughout suede leather with the wool plaid inserts?
  2. Noticed this in the seized engine I'm replacing with the 265 while pulling the manifolds the other day. Again looking at the door jamb stickers it had a valve job a short time before it was parked with overheating problem back in the 70s. Why would someone put a spring on a valve like that?
  3. Can you tell us the size of the little blocks/wedges? I'm having a mechanic swap engines for me and want to have them on hand for him to use.
  4. Love Mitchum's stuff. I bet they used the Ply for interior shots b/c the back seat area is much bigger so they could mount the camera far enough back to get the depth of field they needed?
  5. I think the reason the dash had been at least partially out was to replace the windshield wiper motor. It looks new and there is a door jamb sticker from a gas station saying "windshield wiper motor". I can see if a car has a leaky windshield those screws would be the first to seize.
  6. I finally got it off. Putting it back in is going to be interesting. I found a 1950 Dime inside the dash.
  7. So got everything off except for the column mount bolts. Can't see how this is attached here? BTW this dash has been out before one of the top screws under the garnish was missing and several from the trim around the steering column. So far it's been relatively easy. No frozen screws etc. edit: i removed three nuts up and above the rubber bumper inside the dash but still won't budge? see pic.
  8. This is really helpful thanks! I was feeling around up behind it this morning and the stiffness of the wire bundles and such led me to believe it would be a nightmare to leave it in place and work from below on my back. Long ago in my first vintage car, a 55 Belvedere, I was making the turn in front of the rocky steps in front of the art museum here in Philly and my dash caught on fire right in the middle of everything. I got under the dash and ripped the ammeter wire out-it was shorting and some cabbie sprayed it with his extinguisher. I don't ever want to repeat that! Just a minor burnt fingers. it was not much bigger than a big candle flame. i was able to drive it after some roadside repairs. i'm going to take this very slowly and methodically. everything is getting tagged and photographed. i'm enjoying the pace actually. it's nice to be able to work on a car and not worry about having to get it working quickly.
  9. Change of plans. Lol. So I think it would be a lot easier for me to do this right if I pull the dash. Correct me if I'm wrong. I need to remove the garnish molding along the lower windshield edge to access a bunch of bolts across the top then two bolts lower corners. I don't see any attachment to the steering column in the parts diagram for the dash. Plus drop the heater control panel from the bottom and let that drop to the floor. I'll need to disconnect the speedo cable from the trans- can i do that without draining the trans? Oil pressure is already disconnected. am i missing anything? I've brought the starter horn etc harness pigtail into the passenger area already. There is still another smaller pigtail that needs to come through. any tips or cautions i should know before I set out to make this mess?
  10. Thanks I will. I have quite a list of new parts to find!
  11. I'm starting to pull the wiring and label to replace. It's in horrendous shape in the engine compartment but not bad behind the dash. In any case I'm replacing most of it. I'd like to do this without removing the dash and also without working upside down. The plan is to remove all the switches from the dash (lights ign etc) and pull the main cluster. dropping the wiring from under the dash. Labeling as I go. The wire that ran to the solenoid was a bare wire for most of its run! I've ordered cloth covered wire from Rhode Island Harnesses. Here's a shot of the registration tag on the firewall. it was hidden behind a caddie brake booster that had been added when the original went bad.
  12. Tho it's obvs good enough as it is, it seems to me this heat shield would be even more effective if it were flipped around so that the bit curving down were against the carb base. As it is now that curve would act as a slight air damn pushing the rising hot air toward the carb and fuel bowl. /nit pickin'
  13. Thanks, I looked around online and did the 2 tests, primary and secondary and it passed the secondary but failed the primary. I have the Standard 6v coil but they don't make them with the bracket anymore. 🤨 A good friend had a coil burn up his 54 Ford pickup they were in the middle of nowhere in North Dakota without an extinguisher, they tried to throw dirt on it but it burned up. I've got the engine bay almost cleared to have the block pulled. Knock on wood, all of the manifold nuts have been easy to take off. Just need to do the one's underneath. I have a nice little pile of bits to detail now. fan, heater box, heater duct, oil filler tube, some brackets...
  14. My vote is coolant as well. Occam's razor and all that.
  15. Looked at it again this morning. Looks like it's hiding under a big dollop of undercoating in the fender well next to the access panel. I finished rebuilding the distributor. Can a coil be tested off the car? I have a new one for it but the old one has half the bracket welded to its case. Would like to keep it if it's still good for that reason.
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