JBNeal

that information is detailed in the factory shop manual...more in-depth questions would be better addressed with the gurus on the car forum where there are fewer opinionated knuckledragging cavemen

I have seen pictures of industrial flatheads that had a lifting eye secured with the 3 head bolts in the middle of the engine, from distributor to carburetor...

in this instance, the diagram in the parts catalog is accurate

additional information - Bypass Spin-On Oil Filter

Not wanting to nitpick such a fine detailed piece of work here, but that crankcase filtered cap opening should be facing away from the radiator for the draft tube to work...if going with a PCV setup, the opening probably should be facing away from the radiator just to keep the bugs out of it

I recently spiffed up a set of lawn mower rims that had gotten so rusty that the tires would leak down in less than an hour. Rims were scraped then chemically stripped, washed then soaked in Evaporust per instructions. Applied 2 coats Rustoleum primer with a foam brush, sanding 120 grit between coats. Then 4 very thin coats of JD Yellow Rustoleum spray can...rims looked good as new, new tires hold air like they should. Spray cans work OK for small jobs, but I prefer foam brush and roller techniques as there is less mess to cleanup...spray gun works really well for larger panels as mentioned, and I swear make less mess than spray cans

driving up the auction price is called shill bidding if'n ya are in cahoots with the seller...I learned from many auctions that if I'm really interested in an item that I'll only place a bid in the last few seconds to keep the price down, but if I'm only mildly interested in winning, I'll place my max bid early to scare off the bargain hunters

Get the cracks gouged then weld back up...

that pinion seal oughtta be lubricated for a true preload measurement...

additional information - Brake Drum Replacement

I had carburetor problems for years, rebuilding that B&B so many times that I could do it with my eyes closed before swapping out carbs...you might be having an issue with a jet fouling or a problem with the casting that as the metal heats, a crack is opening up to allow too much air in the wrong place...or the carb flange isn't sealing to the manifold...or the carb flange vacuum passage to the manifold is partially blocked...

Is your carburetor float needle sticking...?

additional information - Cab Floor to Filler Neck Seal

Kevin Clause has researched a ton of information on decoding build cards from a variety of archive sources. In conversations with him, he relayed that there is not one set code for the Pilot-House trucks but more like several codes depending on build date. I requested several build cards and noticed that the printed cards have small changes year to year, he confirmed this as well as that build codes varied over the years, depending on who was in charge at Dodge Truck. A few years ago, he was able to pull up his notes to decode my Spring Special, and he verified the paint code was the only way to know for sure if a Spring Special was authentic. He collects copies of build cards from owners to add to his database and decodes them on request. However, the last few digital copies of build cards I have sent him have not been decoded yet as he was dealing with a few issues that were eating up his time around first of the year in Michigan, and I have not heard back from him in weeks...

just my 2 cents: Functionality of the clutch pedal should be the priority, then fit and finish of sheet metal...once completed, the floor mat should cover any modifications done to the cab and floor boards at the pedals. There are rubber draft seals available that help cover these holes also, or a custom approach to closing these holes can be done utilizing easily replaceable sheet rubber or door brush seals etc...I'm all for originality of a restoration, but the law of diminishing returns makes me examine my budget of $$$ + time to determine if some details that will only be seen by myself during servicing (and by nitpicking busybodies) need so much attention if the vehicle is not going to be entered into any type of judging contests

Mick Jagger said it best: paint them black

additional information - Shock Absorber Replacement I found the $200 shock absorbers and compared its specifications to the Monroe 5752 shocks, the biggest difference being the 3/4" vs 5/8" mounting diameters. Looking through the Monroe and Gabriel catalogs, I could not find any front shocks that were close to the 5752s in compressed or extended lengths, looking at the 11/16" and 3/4" mounting diameters, with several bushing widths. So it looks like the 5752 is the best game in town if ya can open up the bushings carefully or maybe even get the right sized bushings to swap out.

additional information - Diagram + Function of Upper Steering Column Bearing Parts

In automotive applications, black is generally a ground circuit...in higher voltage applications, green is ground. One thing I did was add a ground wire from the battery cable, which I had grounded with a stud I made on a starter mounting bolt. The stud is long enough for a hex nut + helical lockwasher to clamp the starter flange, the ground cable lug, and a jam nut + external star washer then a few threads extra for the main ground wire. With the battery grounded to the starter, the starter turns a little faster but definitely has a direct path to ground. The main ground wire can be attached to the frame rail to make it act as a buss bar, with ground wires attached to it as needed, for headlight area, taillights, fuel tank sender, cab, etc

The one in my '49 has a rough spot, couldn't find a replacement so I filled the bearing full of yellow thick heavy duty bearing grease...that smoothed out the steering nicely...

In short, every circuit is grounded through each component body instead of a ground wire. When parts were new and pristine, it worked well and was economical...but as corrosion set in, circuit perfomance diminished or failed outright because the ground path impedance would go sky high, which is not good on 6V systems. By the 60s, ground wires started showing up on practically every component to improve reliability, driving up vehicle base price but that was offset by improved sales due to the perception that certain vehicles were more bulletproof than others with small changes like this. Look at the path to ground for the Pilot-House horn: a single wire goes through the steering gear shaft, a multi-piece ground contact switch prone to corrosion completes the circuit when the horn button is pressed, then the path continues through the steering gear shaft, into the gearbox, through the gearbox casting bolts to the frame, then try to figure out how the frame connects to the original ground location on the transmission case...that's a LOT of places where corrosion can build up, so it's no wonder that the horn doesn't work well on an unrestored 6V system. In subsequent models, the horn button got that ground wire added to bypass all those corrosion points to make horn performance more reliable.

additional information - Marvel Mystery Oil Usage as a Fuel Stabilizer

The Firestone I worked at in college had a 3.0L 5spd Aerostar, that van was a workhorse as a courtesy vehicle to shuttle customers around as well as hauling tires etc to & from other stores in town...the jackwagon part-timers I worked with would do donuts and power stall the thing in the back parking lot, burning out the clutch every few months, but the mechanics could swap that out in no time as the truck was basically a Ranger in disguise...the store manager put top-of-the-line Firehawk white letter tires on that thing and it responded well to that, tho it looked a little odd...that little two-tone grey brick handled surprisingly well and was quite torquey from the line...it was a little to fun to drive

Put the rear axle on jack stands and start it, see what happens...the last time I had a stuck clutch was on my International 584 after it stalled fording a knee-high muddy creek...fixed that by getting out of the field and taking the scenic route back to the house in road gear, which involved a few steep hills...the extra gravity load helped break the clutch disc off of the flywheel and pressure plate and it worked fine afterwards

are you needing bolt info on a '38 Dodge? A couple of years ago, I went through 4 full shelves of failing cardboard boxes, rusty coffee cans, filthy repurposed plastic containers, and deteriorating plastic bags of small parts that I had obtained in package deals for bigger parts as several regional members were clearing out their inventories after finishing their projects...recycled a 5 gallon bucket of broken/stripped nuts and bolts and assorted metal oddz 'n ends...it took several days of sorting, but I got all that organized into sturdier containers on two shelves, and was chuckling about how many bolts, screws, specialty fasteners, spacers, etc I recognized after not having torn into any of my trucks in years...it's one of my talents in pssing ppl off at recalling things I haven't seen in years, but don't ask me what day it is, I barely remember which month we're in... my point is that I'm not the only guy that can recall certain details of a build, so you might need to post pictures of the areas that you want to complete along with the description...we can probably look at a pic and say which pieces are missing, like a puzzle. I recently helped a few guys who needed some specialty fasteners by measuring what I had in some of them organized containers and they were able to go down to their local hardware stores to get what they needed for a few bucks (back when leaving the house was no big deal)