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About Bdblazer1978

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  • My Project Cars
    1950 Dodge B2C


  • Location
    McGuire AFB, NJ
  • Interests
    My 70 yr old new truck

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  • Occupation
    Air Force

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  1. Reattached both axles and the steering column. Decided to switch to disk brakes on the front and replace all the drum hardware on the back, so we're waiting on parts. Next is the break lines and then the engine.
  2. When I was rebuilding I followed the advice in the thread below and used the same parts to include the sleeve, my yoke had some minor pitting. The seal is dry right now so that could be part of the problem. The other thing is I may just be over analyzing this. My only reference for difficulty turning is what it felt like before disassembling. Currently I can turn it using a couple fingers and minor pressure, I'm just not sure how easy it should rotate.
  3. I replaced the pinion seal and now it's more difficult to spin? Could I have over tightened the yoke nut? I marked the nut, shaft, and yoke before disassembling and lined everything back up when I reinstalled. Looking at the manual its mentions 15-25 in pounds of drag, but that's for shims, which I didn't touch. I dont want to re-install if something isnt right.
  4. We used Mastercoat. Smaller company here in NJ.
  5. Finally had a couple days of nice weather, so I was able to paint the frame. Not show quality, but I'm happy with the results.
  6. So I may have hit a snag. Once I was able to get a good look at the gears I noticed about 8 teeth that had rusted. I'm soaking it in evapo rust to see if it cleans up. Then I plan on measuring the width of the gears and using some marking compound to see how everything is lining up. Everything spins freely and I dont feel any drag when those gears engage. Hopefully everything will be ok.
  7. Thanks for the info, never gave it much thought. The previous owner said he was able to get it up to about 50 mph. As of now the wife said that was ok for cruising.
  8. The diff is the original semi-floating, geared at 4.1. Looking at the manual, I don't think the yoke nut sets the pinion depth. There are shims that go between the pinoin bearing and a spacer to set depth. However, thanks for the comment, it made me re-read a few more posts on this forum and it looks like the nut tension is required for preloading the tension on the bearings. So I need to mark the location so I can get the correct tension on the yoke. I learn a little more everytime I re-read the manual and the posts here.
  9. I'll apologize up front for another differential question and long post. I know there are a lot of posts and I've read a lot of them, which has provided me with the information on how to proceed (I think). But since this is my first time I've been in a diff, I wanted a warm fuzzy that I'm not about to make a mistake or missing something. My rear diff turns freely, however it was leaking from the front (drive pinon) and around the cap assembly. The PO also said that the drivers side tire locked up sometimes, and he would have to put it in reverse to get it unlocked. So I've pulled the shafts and the diff. to make sure something wasn't broke. Before I pulled the shaft I gave it a spin with the brake off and it felt o.k. Once the shafts were out, both shaft bearings didn't have much grease and felt like their was dirt/grime inside (rough spinning). My plan is to clean the entire gear set and case with Zep de-greaser and water without removing the gear set from the case. Once it's clean, I'll look for any cracks or abnormal wear patterns. I'll then coat the entire gear set in WD-40. Then remove/replace the drive pinion, yoke, and bearing oil seal. Re-attach the case to the axle using a new gasket and RTV. Before putting the shafts back in, I plan on replacing the inner oil seal (inside the axle). Since the bearings felt rough, I figured they also need to be replaced or can I just clean them and re-pack? If I replace, then I need to replace the outer seals and then confirm end play & shim. Once it's back together, lubricate and start working on the brakes. I'm hoping someone can tell me I'm on the right track or fill in anything I'm missing. Thanks, Bill
  10. Made some more progress, removed everything from the frame and tore down the front axel. I'm still debating if I want to mess around with the king pin. Mine both have less than 1/16" play, but it would make cleaning everything much easier.
  11. Thanks. We're calling her Blue for now. My other Dodge truck is Little Red.
  12. I think if I tried planting those seeds, I may be in trouble with the EPA, due to all the muck caked on EVERYTHING!!! Someday it will be clean.
  13. Another weekend working on the truck and the wife and I were able to pull the transmission, clutch, and motor. Measured the frame and it's square. Almost time to start cleaning and painting the frame.
  14. So 5 mins after posting, the piece popped out and the pedal slid off. Like I said, going to smack my head.
  15. I'm sure I'm missing something and going to smack my head when its explained, but figured I should ask before breaking something. I'm trying to remove the clutch pedal. I've removed the adjusting collar but the pedal is getting hung up on the slot the collar attaches to. In another thread it said to just pull the piece of metal out of the release fork shaft. Just want to make sure that it's really that simple, grab a pair of pliers and yank? Mines coated in pen oil but doesn't want to move. Just making sure I need to yank harder. Thanks
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