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thrashfit

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    122
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Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Norwich England
  • Interests
    Football, ratrods and any old vehicles. in years gone by played a lot of football, done banger racing and built off road land rovers
  • My Project Cars
    just bought 1954 dodge pickup truck in bits

Contact Methods

  • Biography
    Engineer by trade, made redundant, self employed courier until retirement
  • Occupation
    retired

Converted

  • Location
    Norwich England
  • Interests
    Rusty vehicles, Football, Fishing, the odd beer

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  1. Thanks for your help with this issue. I have found that the holed plate that the hinge bolts to in the door pillar is welded in place ....no wonder I couldn't move it. ...as you can see in the photo the holes are not central so that's what confused me. I have run a tap down the threads to clean them up and now to bolt the doors on. Onwards and upwards. Happy days. Cheers Dave UK.
  2. Thanks billrigsby and tooljunkie. I have put a lot of releasing fluid on them and will apply heat next week. Hopefully I can put a picture of them released later. England going into Lockdown next week so I hope I have all the gear needed. Stay safe. Cheers Dave UK.
  3. Hi billrigsby. The four bolts on the left in your picture. It's the plate that they are bolted to. If you remove the door and hinges there is a plate captivated in the pillar with four threaded holes. Mine is rusted to the cab pillar and it's going to need some heat and hammer to get it out. I needed to know how easy it comes out. Hope this makes sense. Cheers Dave
  4. Sorry if I misled you. The door hinges are free. It's the plate in the cab pillar with the four threaded holes that's rusted to the pillar. I think this should be free to move a bit to allow adjustment of the door. Can this plate be removed easily from the pillar ?
  5. The cab if my 1954 c-1-b6 has been left outside for years with the doors off. The plate inside the door pillar that the door hinges bolt to are solid and stuck to the pillar. I take it these should be loose but can I remove these after I have freed them off ? Can they slide out. Thanks for any info. Dave. Norwich UK.
  6. Many thanks Merle, I will do more research, Cheers, Dave
  7. Can you help me please. I am after part numbers as I am having trouble finding them here in the UK................I am after Petronix electronic ignition for my 1954 American Dodge Job Rated Truck. I am converting it to 12 volt Negative earth. Truck is model C-1-B6 with a straight 6 flathead engine, no T334. 3.7cc , 1/2 ton , 116” wheelbase. Distributor is Autolite, no 1AT-4101B, part no 15467755, serial no 3JOGI786. The elecrtic Autolite co Toledo. Also coil, HT leads, plugs . Is there a good supplier in the USA that you recommend for all the parts I need ? . Any info gratefully received Dave Hull, Norwich UK
  8. Thanks for the replys.......I have heated it up and give it a good thump from both sides but no movement. Drilling it out is the next option but thought I would ask on here first just incase I was missing something.......If I drill it out I am hoping I can fit a slightly bigger pin and peen it over on both sides.
  9. Hi To All, I am trying to dismantle the distributor on my 1954 truck. Can you help please.......I need to get the small pin that connects the bottom drive shaft to the top shaft out....Is it a straight pin, tapered pin or rusted roll pin. Any help most welcome.....cheers, Dave..........Norwich UK.
  10. Hi tinlizzy, I am still building my truck , when I fitted the radiator frame I bolted it straight onto the chassis. I could not find any rubber mounts or the like. Mind you don't raise the frame too high and throw the front panel and bonnet alignment out...….Cheers, Dave
  11. Cheers kencombs, not much difference in name there. ?
  12. The bolts I used for the steel bed strips were coach bolts, they have the square under the dome head. Not sure what they are called in the USA. The bed strips have a square hole and these fitted great.
  13. Hi Tinlizzy, I did not need patterns for my wood floor as there is no fender cut outs, its all straight wood. just had to work out the gaps to allow for hold down strips and bolt clearance. there must be a pattern somewhere on this site. ..........Dave
  14. Cheers 59bisquik. I have made my own rubber mounts but I think doubling up to 1/2" thick will do the business. Be good to get the truck out of the garage and let it see daylight when this virus is over. Thanks for all your help lads...Dave. Norwich UK. ........Its coming along slowly.....
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