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tonybiel

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Texas
  • My Project Cars
    1951 Dodge B3C

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  • Location
    Texas
  • Interests
    Mechanics, Fishing, Hunting

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  1. The small hole where you see the square shaft is only to aid you with the reinstallation of the square shaft/lock back into the door latch. The larger hole on the end of the door is where you will find the set screw. The set screw likely requires a hex allen wrench to remove it. Sometimes, but seldom does a set screw have a screwdriver slot as you mentioned. Because of rusted threads in the door, the set screw on my truck also would not screw out. My door lock was already not useable and I had found another used one. So I drilled out the lock from the outside, taking it out in pieces. Then my set screw easily screwed into the lock chamber. The threads are less likely to be rusted on the back side. I was then able to clean out the door threads nicely with a tap.
  2. Brian, Thanks for all of the research you did on this topic! Looking at the image I copied from your post, My 51 B3C has the filter assembly on the right. Have you found a part#/vendor and source for the flat neoprene gasket for the lid? I found the attached pdf showing a WIX gasket part# 15480. The dimensions it gives for this number is just what I need: 4.448 OD x 4.134 ID x 0.157 thick. I ordered two 15480's through O'Reilly's Auto. What they sent me was 4" diameter o-rings with a 1/8" cross-section. Either their description on the pdf is incorrect or WIX is packaging the wrong part. I haven't been able to get the answer from WIX. Wix 51010 Oil Filter & 15480 Filter Gasket.pdf
  3. JB, thanks for connecting the other seatbelt thread. Don't know how I found it the first time under "Shoulder Harness". Guess I was just surfing the site.
  4. Brent, are those Barbies sanding your hood? You might wake up one morning to a pink truck! LOL
  5. Thanks guys! This assures me the best install. I'll also be adding a lap belt for grandkids.
  6. Brent, your pic of the lower driver's side looks as though the belt recoil housing and stationary link might have different attaching points. Is that the case or are they on the same angle bracket like Merle's?
  7. Merle, these are the pics I had seen. At that time did not save a link to the post or remember that it was you. The position you chose looks great. Thanks for sharing again!
  8. I'm trying to install 3-point seatbelts on my 51 B3C that I purchased from Julianos. Many months ago someone posted pics of how they positioned their floor mountings, especially around the fuel tank pipe on the drivers side where there is little room. I found several threads on the subject, but now I can't find a thread with those pics. If anyone knows the link to that thread or could share pics of their solution, it would be appreciated!
  9. ggdad, I hope I can make mine look as good as yours. The curves are tight. Appreciate the tips!
  10. This is exactly what I had seen months ago. Could not find it now that I need it. I seem to have a hard time searching for old posts that I know are there. Contributing for so long, I guess you just know where to look. Thanks once again for your help!
  11. I am reinstalling the front fenders on my B3C. The rubber fender filler was missing on my truck when I took it apart. A while back there was a post with pictures of how some of you installed the rubber filler on your trucks including the length, securing it, etc. I have guessed any search words I can think of, but no luck yet. Can anyone help point me to that thread or otherwise help?
  12. Great details guys! There is a cam on the shaft of the door remote and a spring that falls into a notch on the cam. This is what keeps the door handle from flopping around when in its "normal" position. A second notch in the cam is what holds the inside door handle in the locked position. My passenger side did not have a 2nd notch on the cam for the lock position. Either there was never a locking notch or it was just worn down. I could not tell for certain. The cam had plenty of material which allowed me to file a locking notch into it. I also dressed the first notch with a file for a more distinct spring fit. My passenger remote was missing the spring, which I found on ebay. The shaft "bushings" were also a little loose. While I had the remote disassembled, I was able to nicely tighten the shaft bushings by laying them on an anvil and hammering the taper of the bushing. A well-selected socket worked great as a punch as it happened to have the perfect inner chamfer. Not quite ready to reassemble my doors yet, but it appears the latches will be tight as new.
  13. Thanks for the extra input as locking someone out was my biggest concern. My doors have not been on the truck for years and they are gutted, so I couldn't immediately verify if the door would close in the locked position.
  14. Then I will fix the passenger side so it locks from inside. It's an easy modification to the cam on the remote. Thanks!
  15. Happy New Year! On my 1951 B3C, was the passenger side door designed to also be locked with the inside door handle or only from the outside with the key lock? I am refurbishing the door latch remotes. I found new springs for them, have refitted the handle shafts and I am repairing the spring cams. The driver's side obviously has a door lock position, while the passenger side did not have a lock position or the lock cam is worn down. i want to repair it to factory design. I can see pros/cons for the passenger side being designed either way. Thanks!
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