JBNeal

Definitely use that floor jack for the assist...on many vehicles with an independent front suspension, the vehicle has to be raised high enough for the shock to be removed from underneath, but then lowered to attach the shock properly to the frame and suspension shock mounts...I recall on my '89 and '92 Dakotas, I had to put the frame on jack stands then put a floor jack under the tire to raise the suspension a few inches to install the shock nut on the stud under the hood

As I had kinda explained earlier, the axle articulation range may exceed the shock absorber stroke, but if it's by 1 inch, then you only have to worry about that deficiency if one wheel is driving over a very deep pothole or if the truck has become airborn...for the rest of the time, the new shocks should work well because they should not bottom out or go full extension during normal operating conditions...I haven't put a GoPro on it, but my guess is that the suspension travel is +/- 4" from neutral during street driving

additional information - Safety Rims

It is possible to put all new gaskets and seals in the flathead engine, even new valve guides, without removing the block from the frame...but it's easier to get the engine re-sealed and spiffed up if it's out of the truck. I've rebuilt flatheads in two trucks, and if I wasn't standing on my head, I was crawling underneath always needing more room to work. I got 10k out of each engine before main seal and timing chain seals that I couldn't access leaked so bad that I didn't want to drive them anymore for fear of doing any damage (along with wiring issues on one and cooling problems on the other). But if this engine is running and not making any clicking, chirping, rattling or grinding noises, then it can be cleaned up, re-sealed and slicked up on a budget. The cast iron block can be cleaned and painted with a foam brush without overspray, except for the back of the block that no one sees. The head can be pulled off if you want to replace the head gasket and make it pretty the same as the block. Any carbon buildup can be cleaned off, and you'll see right away if it's burning oil. Head removal allows a visual inspection of the block bores and valves' condition to see if you've got a serious problem lurking or are good to continue. Rustoleum makes decent paint for rusty metal. I have followed the instructions on their red oxide primer and aluminum top coat to paint oil pans and castings, and they have held up very well after a couple of decades. Cleaning per instructions, as well as painting within their temperature and re-coating guidelines, makes a big difference in quality and durability. It might be helpful to make lists of what comes off the engine block so that they can be used not only for installation but for planning cleanup repair and painting. Spray painting can be fun but messy...what better way to learn the joys of wet sanding than on smaller parts, painted by foam brush but wet sanded between coats to give just as smooth of a finish... It would be a good idea to verify what year flathead that is in the truck...this is important to determine which gasket set you need, as there are critical changes to the rear main seal design, timing cover seal, etc. I recall having leftover parts from gasket sets back in the 90s that I didn't find out where they went until I found info on this site's predecessor back around 2000...most of those parts were not used on my particular engine, but some were, like the distributor shaft seal...OOPS

If the flywheel surface was not smooth, (pressure plate too), it would chew up the clutch disc during engagement. As for local repair, ya probably need to do some detective work and reach out to certain places that might have similar needs, such as forklift repair shops, construction or ag. equipment repair shops, etc. They may know somebody who knows somebody...that's how I found the guys in Waco who relined my parking brake, as they are a small shop who works on all kinds of heavy equipment, very busy with local work so they don't advertise other than the business cards at the front counter ...

What is wrong with the clutch that was sent to you? Did you reach out to that vendor to see if they could rectify the situation? Have ya looked into the availability of a local source that could rebuild your existing clutch?

additional information - Brake Cylinder Sleeving

If it's the rope seal, then the crankshaft has to be dropped enough to clean the old one out and work the new rope in...that's best done with the flywheel off, and there's a few steps required to accomplish that...the rubber seal might be the modern design that you have already seen done...

Ya might want to reduce the size of that hook like Brad says...your tool appears to be well over twice as thick as the tube walls, so the tool will want to bite into the tube even with a more blunt hook. Perhaps ya might need to pull this tube out in pieces; instead of hooking it from the back, maybe try to hook it from near the middle or near the opening. This might be a scenario akin to removing a bolt that has rust on its threads that need to pass through a tapped surface...if ya try to back it out straight, the rust starts to scrape off of the bolt threads but binds up on the tapped surface, leading to the bolt getting jammed or breaking off...but if you back the bolt out a little, then turn it back in, the scraped off rust falls away, allowing for more threads to pass through the tapped surface (very similar to the proper way to use a tap to cut threads). If this distribution tube is all crudded up, ya might need to pull it out a little, then drive it back in, give it the ol' back and forth til it wiggles out

If brazing the inside is done, cleaning the joint with solvents is the 1st step, then apply an open flame to the joint is next, to try to burn out as much hydrocarbons as possible...after cooling, clean with solvents again, then braze away... One of the advantages to applying a sealant to the joint from the inside is that the crankcase oil will be pushing the sealant into the joint...

The fix has to be made from inside the oil pan...thorough cleaning of that joint, then apply an oil compatible sealant, let it cure completely before exposing to oil...

this was the video that I found awhile back that might help with my to-do list...

Kinda reminds me of that Otto Pilot character that couldn't land the plane so Ted Striker had to get over Macho Grande to save the day...

I scored a nearly new B-1 steering wheel awhile back on eBay for a modest price, to replace the one on my '49 that was crumbling...that's when I realized how pronounced the ribs opposite of the grips are...rather than build up those areas with epoxy and file each rib by hand, which probably wouldn't look very uniform, I stewed on making a mold from the donor. Then the worn steering wheel could be set in the mold for an epoxy pour of uniform cross-section. But that's sketched on the notepad next to the economical door check repair kit that I was cobbling together several years ago...kinda got sidetracked

Modern gasoline engines can benefit from new O2 sensors and spark plugs around 80k-100k, inspection of PCV system and a new fuel filter thereabouts, and scanning the computer won't hurt...I argued with a know-it-all tree higher about why it's bad to drive around with less than 1/4 full gas tank, he said it's less dead weight so better for the environment cuz of increased fuel economy; I countered with the need to displace moisture in the air in the tank cuz that moisture corrodes the metal and conductors in the fuel pump motor which can lead to premature failure, and the cascade effect of possibly blocking traffic from stalling out (decreased fuel economy for others in traffic), the environmental impact of the tow truck mobilized, the environmental impact of increased manufacturing of replacement parts due to poor maintenance...he told me I was looking at the problem all wrong

Examination of the gearbox internals should reveal if it is salvageable...if the sector gear is worn, that could be replaced with a donor, but if the worm gear is worn, then you might need a replacement donor gearbox...pressing the worm gear off the shaft requires special tooling, including a press that accommodate the shaft...my guess is that the worm gear was baked in an oven just prior to pressing onto a chilled shaft during manufacturing, and reversing this process is not easy...

I appreciate the effort that ya put into making this gathering happen every year...as many baseball fans say, maybe next year...we can celebrate remotely, I suppose...maybe even ship ya salsa and a roll of TP to put on the shelf for awhile ?

When in doubt, cc your chambers before ya get started to verify your baseline measurements...then you have a better idea of what options are available to ya...shooting for 8:1 CR should give ya decent power, though 9:1 might be pushing it...another reason to shoot for 8:1 is to leave ya some wiggle room in case the head needs to be milled somewhere down the line...cleaning up the top of the block isn't a bad idea, and good to follow through on valve measurements...don't forget about them pistons, tho

Diodes are used to restrict current flow just like a check valve in a hydraulic circuit...

I had driven a 5spd Omni and Dakota for years before driving my '48 3spd, and it took a little while to get accustomed to the dynamics...same when I got the '49 4spd moving again...as I told a lady friend of mine who I had taught how to drive a 5spd after MANY other guys had failed, each powertrain has a personality, and it's kinda like dealing with women: some are easy going, some take a little understanding to know how to deal with, and some are downright difficult...we "discussed" this for awhile before she realized what I was saying after driving her Tercel, my Dakota, then my '48...at first, she thought that '48 was impossible, but then she got the hang of it and said it wasn't so bad after all..."kinda like you" I said to her with a big grin, which she rewarded me with a big ol' punch in the arm

to clarify: insulator: rubber bushing used to clamp column under the dash bearing assembly: tapered roller bearing; no p# on part spacer: split conical metal bushing spring: compresses the spacer into the bearing when the steering wheel hub is tightened onto the steering shaft, wedging the bearing onto its race

in Bunn's books, some factory photos show spokes oriented at 10-2, and other factory photos show a spoke at 9 o'clock...both my '48 and '49 have the latter, though it's your truck and ya know how to install it, so try out which way you like...I like the 9 o'clock because I can have my arm on the window sill and that spoke is right there to grab hold of

Taking a closer look at the pics, the axle studs appear to thread into the adapter nuts enough so that the nut thread engagement approximates the stud cross-section...the nuts appear to be longer than required for ease of installation into a cavity. Call it good and move forward to figuring out what's the deal with the axle shaft length discrepancy cuz that needs to be solved... As for the brakes, try putting the pads onto the bracket first. Retract the caliper piston fully with a C-clamp or the like, and the caliper should be able to be located onto the bracket appropriately. Ya ought to apply some Sil-Glyde to appropriate areas to keep brake parts properly lubricated

additional information - Part Storage

my gut says that the whole country might be on lock down by the end of the month... ?