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David A.

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  • Posts

    200
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About David A.

  • Birthday 10/12/1963

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Greer, SC
  • My Project Cars
    50 B2B, 80 Shay Roadster, 66 Mustang, 64 Rambler Typhoon, 55 Willys Jeep CJ5, 54 Metropolitan Conv.,38 Buick Century

Converted

  • Location
    Greer, SC
  • Interests
    Antique auto restoration

Contact Methods

  • Occupation
    Retired

Recent Profile Visitors

2,023 profile views
  1. I feel your pain. I spent several months working on my bed sides trying to get them as straight as possible. Mine were also stretched badly and bowed. I tried using heat and jacks but never could get them to straighten out. I finally took them to a custom car shop that had a frame machine. They used that and a torch and got them pretty straight. It still took me a long time to get all the waves and dings out even after that. it just takes a LOT of time and patience.
  2. That’s the same guy selling the NOS valve that appears to be making reproductions. He even shows a moparpro.com add in one of his pictures. That is probably the valve he used to design his reproductions. I guess he wants to get it sold before he puts his reproductions on the market.
  3. Of course what works best for one person may not be as good for another. I didn’t have any help and this is the order I did mine. 1. doors- they are needed for fender alignment. It was easier for me to install all the door innards and glass after the doors were hung. 2. inner fenders- I set them in place so I wouldn’t risk scratching anything trying to install them after the fenders. 3. front grill piece- mounted it loosely and slid the radiator support as far forward as possible to make sure I had room for the fenders. 4. fenders- once tightened to the grill, you will need to shim the radiator support, and back fender support to make the rear of the fenders parallel with the front of the doors, and match up to the curved section of the door. Then slide the whole front assembly back towards the doors allowing enough room for the doors to open without scraping the fenders. 5. hood- I did have to enlist some help to put the hood in place. It was just too much for one person. 6. Bed- I assembled it first, then put it on the frame using a hoist. After the bed was in place I loosely mounted the running boards in place, then installed the rear fenders. Good luck!
  4. I wish I lived near you. I would love to get some pointers on welding in patch panels. No matter how slow I go, I always seem to get too much warpage. You’re doing a great job! Can’t wait to see it finished.
  5. That’s fantastic! Thanks for the pictures.
  6. Is this what you are looking for? I haven’t used the PM feature before, but if this is what you need, PM me and I’ll try to figure it out.
  7. I got all 4 of mine from Eaton Detroit Spring, inc. I am very pleased with how they look, and how they fit.
  8. The 48 and 49 would have had stainless grill bars. To my knowledge no one is reproducing them. They come up for sale on eBay from time to time. The 50 models just had painted metal grill bars as standard but they would fit the 48 & 49 as well.
  9. It’s been a while since I installed mine, but is that where the screw goes that holds the vent window frame in place?
  10. The seal is not in the cable. It is in the transmission where the cable screws on. It isn’t hard to replace. If that seal is bad you will leak fluid even with a new cable.
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