David A.

Boy that looks like a hard hit. Glad you’re ok!

This is just my opinion and someone more knowledgeable may want to chime in, but you may have created a future problem using bondo on your water pump. Body filler absorbs water which will allow the metal plate behind it to rust. Eventually the body filler will flake off and may plug up your radiator causing over heating problems. If it really needs smoothed out, you may want to consider fiberglass or epoxy. David A.

Beautiful truck!

Looks very nice. Congratulations!

Nice job!

I’m not sure what model truck you are working on, but my 1950 B2B is completely stock other than having a 2.76 rear end from a Chrysler New Yorker under it for many years. It didn’t have any power, but it would move right along on the interstate. I have since put my original differential back under it with a 3.54 carrier from a plymouth sedan. I have never had any steering issues. On one trip I drove mainly interstate, running 60-65 mph, from the tip of the eastern shore of Virginia to Harrisburg, PA and then back home to South Carolina. About a 800 mile trip.

This is what the machine shop recommended I use for the welch plugs. So far I haven’t had any leaks and it’s been a number of years since I installed them.

Nice truck. Enjoyed the pictures and the video!

Yes that is correct. Eaton Detroit Spring. I don’t know when they added the Detroit to their name. It’s maybe been there all along and I just never paid any attention to it.

Eaton spring made new original style leaf springs for my 1950 B2B. It may be worth a try calling them to see if they would give you that measurement. David A.

That’s two mighty nice looking trucks!

It’s been a good while since I installed mine, but it was metal with a small rubber seal that slid over the edge and formed a seal between the edge of the shroud and the back of the heater core. Also, the shroud part is slightly smaller than the heater core so it still allows air to be circulated just inside the cab when the fresh air vent is closed.

You can mount your heater as is and it will recirculate the air inside your cab. There were washer type foam rubber gaskets that slid on the water tubes that would seal out dust and outside air when you tightened the heater to the firewall. For that installation you would not remove the black circled knockout. Most heaters were installed in that fashion. If you find the fresh air option kit that was available for that heater, it came with a square shroud that was sandwiched between the heater core and the firewall. The black circled knockout would get removed and there was a round divert

The best I can remember, the only fittings I could find were 3/8-24. However it didn’t want to screw in exactly right. It acted like it was tightening down but it leaked something terrible. Turns out it was just the threads getting tight and it never actually compressed the ferrule. I used a thread pitch gauge and found the oil pressure gauge was 27tpi. I never could find a fitting with that thread pitch, so I ordered a 3/8-27 die and used it on the fitting. It seemed to do a great job on the soft brass threads. It screwed right into the oil pressure gauge and tightened up against the ferrule.

I’m certainly no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I have only seen that early arm rest offered as an option for the drivers door. However, the metal part of the passenger door was made to accept that arm rest as well.