David A.

The best I can remember, the only fittings I could find were 3/8-24. However it didn’t want to screw in exactly right. It acted like it was tightening down but it leaked something terrible. Turns out it was just the threads getting tight and it never actually compressed the ferrule. I used a thread pitch gauge and found the oil pressure gauge was 27tpi. I never could find a fitting with that thread pitch, so I ordered a 3/8-27 die and used it on the fitting. It seemed to do a great job on the soft brass threads. It screwed right into the oil pressure gauge and tightened up against the ferrule. No leaks as of yet.

I’m certainly no expert by any stretch of the imagination, but I have only seen that early arm rest offered as an option for the drivers door. However, the metal part of the passenger door was made to accept that arm rest as well.

I believe it’s a Telemecanique XCK-L limit switch. David A.

Just be sure to warn whoever mounts your tires that they are different widths. I had 4, 4” wide wheels, and 1, 4 1/2” wide wheel. The worker carefully set his mounting machine to one of the 4” wheels thinking they were all the same. When he mounted the tire on the wider rim it took all the new paint off the edge of the rim.

Thank you for all of your responses. I’m really anxious to get this truck finished. Been working on it for 12 years now and I’m ready to drive it again!

I’m not sure how to post links to previous threads, but a search for build card turned up a post that I copied and pasted below. It was written by Kevin Clause. I don’t know if he is still available to answer questions, but it might be worth a try. He seemed very knowledgeable when I communicated with him a good while back. David A I wrote an article on decoding Dodge truck build cards (including the punches). It appears in the March 2008 Power Wagon Advertiser for anyone interested in it. Anyone interested in a no cost evaluation of their build card can contact me at kknglenn@yahoo.com. Thanks, Kevin Clause This

I would have bet the same thing until I took the bed apart. Finding the factory blue between the assembled panels showed it was painted before it was assembled.

Ok, thank you. I know you could pay extra to have the bed painted the same color as the cab which this truck apparently was, because when I disassembled the bed I could tell the bed was painted blue from the factory before it was assembled. That’s why I was wondering if they took the time to paint the bolts, or just left them zinc plated. Since the bed was blue, would the carriage head bolts in the side shovel strips still be black or would they have been painted the bed color to match the shovel strips that are attached to the bed sides? Sorry for all the questions, but I just want to make sure I get it as close to how it looked from the factory as possible. Thanks, David A.

I am about ready to assemble the bed on my 1950 B2B, and had some questions about bolt head finishes. I’m trying to go back as close to original as possible. 1. Should the bolts holding the bed front panel and rear Cross member be painted the bed color, or left unpainted? 2. Should the Phillips head bolts holding the rear fenders on be painted, or left unpainted? 3. Should the large and small carriage bolts in the bed floor be painted black, or left unpainted? Thanks for the help, David A.

I put my side panels in after my heater was already installed. It was no problem at all.

What a beautiful truck. I know that is a great feeling to get it back on the road! David A.

Ok thanks for looking that up for me. I guess I’m probably stuck with trying to get the bow out of my side panels. Been working on this truck for 12 years and I’m really ready to get it finished!!! The bed sides are the only thing holding me up.

Thank you! That should tell me if the fender radius is the same by comparing it with my B2B. I did check with Horkey’s and Mar-K, but didn’t have any luck. Thanks again to everyone for all the help and suggestions. David

That last drawing has the measurement I need for the rear fender radius; however, when I enlarge it, it’s too fuzzy to make out the dimension. Could you please tell me what it lists as the dimension for the back fender radius. Thank You for all the info. That dimension will really help me out. Thanks, David

Thank you for taking the time to post all that information, there are a lot of dimensions there, but I didn’t see any dimensions listed for the rear fenders. Thanks again, David