JBNeal

How'bout a spacer instead of countersinking to keep the adapter cross-section thickness greater at its highest stress points...might have to machine some donuts to slip over the MC casting and use 2 longer hex head bolts...

Well yeah 565 I can toss that around like a football... The boat anchor I took across the scales a few months ago may have had some water in it, I had trouble getting it on the trailer tho...

A fully assembled flathead weighs in about 750#; the block alone weighs about 160#... lift with the legs

BR-series HD 4-wheel ABS use a cast iron bracket to attach the caliper to the spindles up front and Dana 80 axle in the rear, but the bracket is rarely the problem...the overall design is robust, however my experience has shown serious issues with replacement parts not being up to specifications ?

My '49 had that filter on the draft tube, it still had most of the decal on it that instructed service by cleaning just like the crankcase inlet filter, same filter media for both...that flathead had almost as much fumes and drippings as my '48 that had the unfiltered draft tube, and both engines had been rebuilt. So I went forward with a PCV installation and was pleasantly surprised at the near elimination of fumes...the engine ran just as smooth as it had before starting with the PCV install, and the cab didn't get stinky when sitting at stop lights. Full plumbing of the PCV system from the crankcase inlet to the air filter should fully eliminate fumes. As long as the crankcase is open to the environment, fumes will persist, even with filtering...if the fumes are consumed through combustion, then they cannot escape into the environment except out of the tailpipe, far away from the comfort of the driver's seat

I have been fighting with brake issues on the QuadCab for months and have a writeup pending...long story short: close ain't close enough when it comes to brake calipers ?

additional information - DOT5 upgrade testimonial

Maybe a piece of shower rod cover could be placed between the tailgate tube and the bracket... additional information - Tailgate Bushing Upgrade

There are passages that lead from the head to the block that can also get clogged...ya might need to monitor the uniformity of heating in the block and head once put back together, employing an infrared thermometer would be very helpful...this can pinpoint if there are any hotspots in the castings, or if any abnormally cool areas exist that could indicate a coolant passage being blocked...areas to watch are the head near the firewall and the block near the starter, I have heard of heads clogging up there and have seen sludge halfway up the upper welch plug as these areas are the farthest away from the water pump...

The coolant passages go around the combustion chamber in the block and the head, with a water distribution tube channeling coolant from the water pump throughout the block under the valve area. The drain near the distributor is on the water jacket side, which is notorious for collecting sludge for lack of turbulent flow in the coolant. It might be possible that drain has clogged already, and the block is nearly full of coolant. Ya might need to remove that drain and snake out the area with a stiff wire like a coat hanger...this is why I do preliminary testing with straight water, it's cheaper to cleanup while working bugs out of the system

That timing chain appears worn...I could not find a specification for allowable chain deflection, but the FSM has one picture that shows a timing chain installed and it appears to have less than 1/2 the height of a link. The slack in that chain translates to the earliest form of variable valve timing, resulting in uneven idle, uneven performance, backfiring, etc. If you deflect one side of the chain outwards so that the other side is straight, that outward deflection will give you an idea about how close the chain is to hitting the cover. I have diagnosed many modern cars with worn timing belts as they would be slapping against the cover, so the inside cover of your flathead might tell ya if this chain may have been getting a little too friendly... additional information - Timing Chain Details additional information - Timing Chain Removal additional information - Timing Chain Installation

just a thought: maybe you could work out a deal with a trustworthy member who has adequate online financial abilities to act as your agent...

photobucket recent issues are apparently much worse than they are letting on...many subscribers are complaining about lost files but still getting billed for services (not rendered) a month after their massive outage...some are grumbling about a class-action lawsuit...I was just about to pull the trigger on one of their hosting packages when this massive outage occurred, kinda glad to dodge a bullet for a change... https://downdetector.com/status/photobucket/

when asked about unused holes on a project, I usually tell folks that they are used for drainage or ventilation, depending on orientation

The 1-bbl Stromberg on my '49 1-ton has the fuel inlet perpendicular to the engine, and I was struck at how little trouble it had on warm starts as compared to the 1-bbl Carter with the fuel filter above the intake manifold on my '48 1/2 ton. I plan on going with a 2bbl carb with adapter on the factory 1bbl intake manifold, with the side fuel supply to reduce hard starting warm starts...preliminary research on the Stovebolt page sold me on this plan as those with successful setups liked the power and simplicity of a single carburetor to adjust and maintain...can't give any details yet as all I have are a general plan and measurements that showed that it would all fit under the hood, too many interruptions to deal with since I dragged The Flatbed home...maybe next year...

I have installed 4' Lithonia LED shop lights in several locations and have been impressed with the light quality...these have been an improvement over the 4' fluorescent lamps with failing ballasts that would have trouble on humid or chilly days. The LED light is not harsh or intense, installation was no more difficult than installing fluorescents, and the price was competitive tho slightly higher than fluorescents. My only concern is if the LED strip fails, the entire fixture requires replacement..my neighbor installed 8' LEDs that have a bluish tint and work well, but its apparent that he should have gone with 4' and spread them out as he has shadowing in certain areas...he saved $$$ on labor but sacrificed quality. I took a different approach to lighting up a metal barn by using GE daylight LED flood lamps pointed down on 10' centers. The sealed junction boxes are attached to pitched roof purlins that vary from 12' to 20' high...metal conduit to each junction to protect from gnawing critters...since this was a 30x60 barn, I could save on materials costs buying in bulk...each light (LED + hardware) ran about $12 + my labor...it was a tedious approach but allows for future expansion and bulb replacement costs are relatively low, light quality is very good as there is almost negligible shadowing...this overhaul replaced failing 500W halogen floodlights that were spaced too far apart that barely lit up the space, as shadowing was terrible and the lights were too intense. I had a gf several years ago whose small 2-car garage was lit by a single CFL...woefully inadequate...I installed 4' fluorescent lamps just to the outside of the garage door tracks as well as replaced the Edison fixture. This put light roughly 3' from 3 white walls with the door up or down, which helped to produce an ambient light effect. It was a little dim in the middle, especially with cars in there or the door up, but a vast improvement overall. Two more 4' lamps straddling the garage door opener track would have helped, but she couldn't be bothered to thank me for that much work, so I took that experience and used it in several other locations...bless her heart

in the summer of '98, I found a pair of lineman's pliers buried 3 feet deep in a ditch, rusted solid, while cleaning out a box culvert that was choked up with very fine black silt...cleaned up, soaked in Marvel Mystery Oil for a month before they broke loose...still using them to this day, them big things will cut copper up to 4AWG, no sweat

Talk to the folks with Renu, they can coat the innards and patch that panel back on before coating the exterior for a modest fee... additional information - Gas Tank Renu Testimonial

Will ya need a proportioning valve for your setup or is that TBD...?

From Monroe's search engine: Front: Monroe 5752 Rear: Monroe 58567 (includes hardware pkg) Monroe 37078 (no hardware pkg) Monroe 37112 (no hardware pkg)

I went through the Monroe Instruction Guide and didn't find any shocks that would be significantly shorter than the 31000... additional information - Alternatives to Monroe 31000

eek...them squiggly lines look like another door opening for opportunities ahead...

There's a classified section on this website that might cater to a potential buyer in your neck of the woods...

I'm guessing that it was the stuff to show the contact pattern, rebuilder probably left it on for your inspection...probably just needs to be cleaned off...

I was able to find some good information using the Monroe and Gabriel installation guides...this opened up a lot of economical options from various vendors... additional information - see duplicate thread