JBNeal

Your local John Deere dealer may be able to help...

Since photobucket is still holding files hostage, I started uploading jpgs to my account on this site, but I have to downsize the resolution because of file attachment restrictions...typically I downsize to 640x480 or thereabouts, which gets my 3Mb pics down to about 100kb...

In the factory shop manual, there is a paragraph on rear hub service for the B-1-D, PW, F-J trucks in the Wheels and Tires section... After the retainer is removed, that hub inner oil seal is removed, though I cannot remember if I used a drift on the inner bearing race or the bearing itself to dislodge that oil seal, gotta be careful to not damage that bearing by getting in a hurry... additional information - front wheel seal additional information - rear wheel seals

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That Amazon item looks similar to the McMaster but it appears unavailable now...

I've purchase J-nuts at several Ace Hardware and Lowe's locations, sold individually, in pairs, and qty.5...McMaster could sell ya 10 if ya ask'm real nice...J-nuts are kinda adjustable as the bolt thread engagement tabs can be flattened some and acme or NC threads could be forced into the nut to lock into place

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TOOLBOX ARSENAL: I found this 4" paintbrush years ago in one of the barns and have been using it to clean off work surfaces, projects, power tools and equipment as the bristles are still kinda stiff but not abrasive. While tidying up after conclusion of several recent projects, I actually noticed the writing on the handle: Montgomery Ward (!) So I asked Dad about it, he stewed on it overnight and remembered that Grandpa used that brush to paint trailers and the old field house, so he guesses it was new back in the early to mid 60s...WOW they don't make'm like that no more

Kbro

Ya might need to pull each wheel cylinder apart and rinse with aerosol brake cleaner, as well as the master cylinder and each short hose and hard line, with long lines flooded with brake cleaner then chased with compressed air to purge, 3 times might do the trick...allow to dry, reassemble and bleed + pressurize with DOT 3...I've read about filling and purging a system with denatured alcohol and I wonder if that damages the sealing cups in the master + wheel cylinders during pressurizing...its quicker but at what cost? Doing the complete teardown allows for inspection of components which can remove some ambiguity about system component condition. These hydraulic system either work or don't and having found out how one doesn't work while rolling down a steep hill is not something I ever want to experience again...better safe than sorry, it's cheaper in the long run

And that's what I clearly described in each of my picture captions years ago...

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ya might want to snake a stiff wire in that axle housing drain to see if any sludge is piled up in there...but more than likely the differential leaked out of that old crusty leather pinion seal, judging by the dribbling evidence in that area...

There ya go, them plates should be interchangeable, though you need to use your judgment on if there is acceptable erosion on that plate for the pump impeller to work effectively...FYI if ya look at your old water pump gasket, you can see it has the internal bypass hole...the first flathead gasket set I ever bought had the external bypass gasket without that extra hole...later flathead gasket sets all had the water pump gaskets with the extra hole...as long as there's no hole in that backing plate and there's no water passage in the head, there's no way coolant can leak from that extra passage in the engine block unless there's a crack in the block, but that's not a common mode of failure in that area

One thing I subtly pointed out is that for many years there were 2 different replacement water pumps available dependent on year of the motor...water pump castings were different for external and internal water pumps, and backing plates differed by the presence of a hole as shown in the 1st pic I posted. The new replacement pumps available marketed by Gates out of china are a redesign that adds a tapped port for a cabin heater but more importantly accommodates both the external bypass thermostat design with a tapped flange and the internal bypass design with the extra hole in the casting + backing plate. Possibly an easier fix for your predicament is to remove the backing plate from your water pump and weld or braze the hole shut then grind or machine flush so the water pump gasket can seal adequately...this will foul up the plate's zinc plating but if that can be sealed over or re-plated then it's not a problem...at any rate, modifying the pump eliminates the leak source, though plugging that port in the engine block would also be advised...if the backing plate is sealed over, then a splat of black RTV in that engine block hole oughta keep any moisture or debris out

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Grounding to the block would be better as the distributor is part of one of the ground paths...grounding the battery to a starter mounting stud also helps improve starter performance... As for the mystery bolt, I am unsure of its purpose...there are some obscured pictures in one of my industrial engine manuals that appears to show a bracket bolted to the head in that area...the bracket is used for throttle control on dual carburetor setups...

That 1st weld looks to have evidence of wire welding, the 2nd looks to have employed a shielding gas...brazing was a common sheet metal repair of that era, with some service stations using oxy-acetyl torch + wire coat hangers to score more business, but production welds appear to have been stick welds, which ain't easy on sheet metal especially if done in a hurry, but it can be done. Brazing is kinda expensive compared to stick welding when compared on a mass production basis, but low volume production brazing is competitive in some cases depending on setup...

That appears to be a factory armrest for the early B-series...I am not aware of any reproductions available but I recall someone posted years ago that ford reproduction arm rests of that era are close... That tach appears to be from the late 60s...I picked up a few on eBay years ago, in good used to mint conditions, with and without sending units...I found several service sources online that retrofitted the tach guts with solid state electronics that eliminated the sending unit, but never contacted any of them...my guess is that retrofit is probably as robust as the guys who can replace obsolete radio guts of that era with modern solid state electronics... That cab number would also be found with the serial number on the build card to verify matching numbers from the factory...several members have found out that their projects have non-original cabs when they received their build cards, though it's still a relatively rare occurrence...more information on this can be found on the Pilot-House registry

Check your motor mounts...if they pancake, that'll throw a few things outta whack

RE: leads through rectangular opening In similar applications, I have potted wires through case openings by using masking tape as a form or backing and carefully applying black RTV silicone, being careful to have the leads spaced at least one wire diameter...this effectively casts a flexible seal that is economical, robust, and easy to replace when required

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