JBNeal

additional information - column shift adjustments

CG is probably in the vicinity of the throttle linkage bolted to the bell housing...

I have seen roll pins distort so that they are no longer straight, with mating bore axes not in alignment...very difficult to drive out, usually have to drill out ends of pin, remove mating parts, then drive remainder of pin clear of bores...

them cork gaskets can be adhered to the oil pan with a gasket sealant, but considering that damage is at the bolt hole, it's probably gonna seep a little bit...definitely see what the seller can do to rectify this situation...

Off the top of my head, ordering engine parts should be done for the year of the engine because the head gasket, rear main seal, and timing cover seal changed over the years. As far as I know, car and truck flathead engine internals were the same for the same model years, so if ya have a '56 Plymouth 230, you could order engine parts for a '56 Dodge 1-ton with a 230... additional information - Flathead Valve Adjustments

Other Patents Pending

I sourced this canister on eBay years ago, it does not appear to have been used as there are no witness marks from a mounting clamp band, the top is still glossy, and the internals are bone dry with no evidence of oil residue. The decals have some aging so I'm guessing that it may have been a shelf display. The JC decal measures about 1.625" x 4.125", the outlet decal measures about 0.50" x 1.75"...I don't know of any reproductions available, but maybe a creative type could scan the originals to recreate the original artwork, digitally color correct to produce a jpg approximation, and crank out a few for personal consumption...this might be one of those times that a reproduction could be made close enough and only the random nitpicker could question its authenticity

Air brakes...?

I sourced a new Mopar prop.valve from eBay and swapped out the original after replacing the original calipers...that's about when I noticed the brake fluid on the rubber cap during one of the many system bleeding exercises. I thought for sure the original was sticking, but it was clear afterwards that the calipers were the issue as the brake fluid amount on the rubber cap was unchanged. I believe that the brake pressure variation within the system is right at the threshold for triggering the ABS warning light, and the variation is significantly less than it was 3 months ago with the reduction of brake fluid on the prop.valve rubber cap. From what I've read, the prop.valve sensor triggers an idiot light and doesn't reset until after the ECM is powered down then reenergized, with a few other operational criteria referenced before lighting up again. Since my trailer brake controller has a LED that instantaneously shows when the brake lights are on, I can double check to see if the brakes are dragging again...so far, that's checking out, even when pulling a heavy trailer...

QuadCab brakes seem to be working OK but the ABS warning light still appears to come on at random times. The brake fluid on the proportioning valve rubber cap doesn't seem to get larger than the tip of a fat ballpoint pen, and instead of looking wet, it just looks like a witness mark. This tells me that whatever part that is sticking enough to cause a pressure spike isn't sticking for very long, and much less than 3 months ago, and that's a good thing...I've been stewing on this for weeks, and tried something new a few weeks ago. In order to wear in the rear calipers a little faster, I have started to jam on the brakes whenever I am going in reverse on dry pavement...can't do that effectively on the gravel surfaces on most of the roads I drive on though...this seems to keep the ABS warning light off for a few days of driving around on loose surfaces...onward and upwards

And the name for that category should be called THUNDERDOME ?

I had to get off of the HAMB years ago because of the toxic ppl on there who would go off the reservation with their nastiness over the simplest question or comment...it got to be that if anything was posted on there, those knuckleheads would go all FLAME ON and it sucked the fun out of site participation... I appreciate the efforts to keep this site focused on the automotive restoration hobby, it's the only reason that I participate because it's one of the few sources of recreation that I have available...all the inflated egos, sanctimonious attitudes and self-righteous opinions can pollute the rest of the internets for all I care, I just want to keep on truckin'

Needle bounce can be used to monitor fuel amount in several ways: no bounce when tank is full bounce is intermittent when tank is 1/4 full no bounce when tank is empty

that WDT is a fine trophy to hang on the wall ?

Your original strips may have been attacked before and the carriage bolts could have rounded out them square holes...

And then there's the learning of when solder is no longer any good...yep, solder can go bad, kinda like welding rods...

A combination gravity boot / chin-up bar for maintaining your swimmer's physique ?

12V negative ground ain't exactly OE...

the original seal for the sending unit to the tank should be an o-ring that fits in the tank groove...I had enough left of my originals to get them sized at a local industrial supply for pennies...a ground stud can be added for improved gauge accuracy

additional information - Windshield Wiper Replacement

I looked at this in the parts book years ago and if I recall correctly, swapping the transmission tops out is possible as the gearset internals were unchanged...I didn't look at the parking brakes close enough so ya might need to pay attention to that...

go to 23-46 in the Body section, under Express Body there is a listing of the parts; however, there is not a picture breakdown listing the bed parts as there is for the cab interior...

additional information - Column Shifter Adjustments

it stopped raining enough this morning for me to step out and take a look at the yard art to verify some tailgate details that were a little fuzzy... since it is a rain day, and I've got a mess of notes to sort through that have been piling up on the big desk, looks like I'll be doing the mundane documentation for future projects that I keep putting off for a rainy day...if all goes well, I can get some binders filled up and put in the bookshelf, then I can use my desk again for even more exciting things, like paying bills and doing research

the parts manual I have updated 1May53 lists this as a center hinge, used on 3/4 and 1-tons, and should be mounted below the shovel strip, though I only have one applicable bed mostly intact and it appears that it is above the bed wood...I would assume that the bed wood needs to be notched out enough to accept this hinge so that the shovel strip is not too proud of the others, but I cannot find factory documentation to support this so customize as you wish... the center hinge with the countersunk holes is for the B-4s... I am unsure if this is called the hinge support in the parts manual because it is only used on 1/2 tons '48-'53 but the manual lists it for all express bodies...my '53 1/2 ton has the long bed that is the same as the 3/4 tons and it has the countersunk hole center hinge